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Wobbly round the bend

Started by fragged8, July 15, 2011, 02:39:05 pm

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Mike8560

Indoo my zippered pockets bolth ways regal if and IMO Wichita looks better more money and time in the center of the pocket I sew the outside radius first then shorten the inside curve just like s uzip   But if you did t it would be a problem like your saying
have a nice day

fragged8

I re made that front cover Mike and this time the long pocket came out real good.

Unfortunately I used glass from a roll and it looks terrible so i'm going to have to
do the window yet again. :-(

I'll post a pic up tomorrow.

Rich

Mike8560

I've been there sometimes it feels like tour never going to Finnish. Donit over !


fragged8

July 20, 2011, 01:08:08 pm #18 Last Edit: July 20, 2011, 01:09:23 pm by fragged8
i'm so glad you said that, this year has been bad for re makes
and mess ups. I working away hoping it's all going to click into place

heres take 2 on the top, this time i really nailed the long pocket.


in this pic you can see the bad glass, and the hidden zippers i've been practising
you can see them from the inside or the outside and the reinforcement that covers
the zipper is 1 3/4 wide.


Peppy

Looks real nice Rich! But dude! LTD? I hate those things! Like little spears if you step on one!

I was thinking about your post regalman, while I was patterning a top in the shop yesterday. You say you ease the pocket going around the curve? While I was patterning that part I got thinking about circumference.

When the top comes around that part of the bar I think the cross-section of of the bar becomes an oval (relative to the plane of the main top) and therefore has a bigger circumference and needs a different allowance-


This is the back bar around the bend. The little tube is a fake back bar.


In the lower left is the back curtain, lower right the side curtain. The back bar continues where the tubing is cut, rain flap to the left main top to the right.


on the left is a normal tube. The right is the oval cross-section. I didn't measure it but if I had to guess I'd say it's about 1/2" bigger in circumference.

Not to say that's the right angle I cut the bar on there but you get my drift? Anyway, that's why we just grunt some snaps in the corners.
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Mike8560

July 20, 2011, 07:18:26 pm #20 Last Edit: July 20, 2011, 07:22:29 pm by Mike8560
looks good rich glad you nailed it !

I use a bend arc bender and yes it flattens thevtube a bit in the curve  oval but I don't know it the circumference is changed  wiser onecway narrower the other
like I said before I have more allowance (push) in the center of the bow were it is weaker and on the corners where the frame is stronger I have less where the frame can really pull the top tight with the strap or support leg  anyway here are two shot that show how my curves turn out

http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Express%20cruiser%20enclosures/100_0895k.jpg

http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Flybridge/100_1592.jpg

regalman190

Looks great Rich! Nice job.

Peppy....I think you've got it. Yes, the tube cross section does change and easing the end of the pockets helps a lot.

Regal Canvas

fragged8

thanks bud, lets see if i can repeat it hehe

I didn't ease main part of the pocket at all but
I did ease the corners, i gave it about 1/4"
but i'm doing the aft cover now and i think I'm going
to ease the corners 1/2"

Rich

Mike8560

I gueese tou guys see it different then me
the center of the bow is weaker so I ease it the corners iade the strongest part do I sale slot less
whatever gets the job done   

JuneC

Looks really good, Rich!  Nice work there.  One thing we do differently... I've always heard - from brokers/boaters/etc. to put the zip starts at the outside edge and end in the middle.  Theory being, that if the zip should start to unzip (in the even yours don't have locks), they're a lot less likely to come unzipped in a heavy windstorm. 

My first several tops I made with a single zip.  After all, why use 2 36" zips when a single 72" zip does the trick? Then I started asking questions from trusted sources.  All the "why's?" that annoy the heck out of you in a 2 year-old.  Answer I got was  - start on the outside, end in the middle and you'll get no unexpected unzips. 

Anyhoo, your tops look great!  Trick is to remember what you did right so you can do it again on the next one.

June
"Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people."

     W. C. Fields

Mike8560

June I fry to alway get locking zips.
On a zippered pocket  ere the top is up no windows I always start my 80 outside and end in the middle for as you say if it unzips a bit it's not on the side. 
But on the window ortop top or a aft curtian I start in the middle  top to top I put a locking Velcro or snap to help.  The reason is many times getting to the boat if it's a aft curtian you unzipped the side window to aft Curtis. Zip. Then if tou un zip the art curtian to top zip it give you alot kore room to step on the funnel and step down into the boat then zip  it back closed.
O. A front window say on a smaller boat where you may have one front window it's allot easier for one person to hold the middle of the window withthe zip and start It.
At the end of the widow on the side at the bottom of the curve it alot harder to try and hole it and start the zipper at the side then if it started in the center. 
Just the way I like it.  Oh on the smal vent u zips  on sport oat mostly
last one I did had a 8" mYbe panel of can as at the top so  to ack as a sunshades had a small vent u zip   Outside the zip was matching textaline mesh so no bugs could get in.