Need Help? Call Us 415-423-3313
Need Help? Call Us 415-423-3313
  • Welcome to The Upholster.com Forum. Please login or sign up.
 
September 29, 2024, 03:30:11 am

News:

Welcome to our new upholstery forum with an updated theme and improved functionality. We welcome your comments and questions to our forum! Visit our main website, Upholster.com, for our extensive supply of upholstery products, instructional information and videos, and much more.


Patterning a club chair T-Cushion

Started by baileyuph, June 10, 2011, 07:17:21 pm

Previous topic - Next topic

baileyuph

June 10, 2011, 07:17:21 pm Last Edit: June 11, 2011, 02:52:10 pm by DB
The purpose of this thread is to learn how others pattern a T Cushion;

   a.  One with no crown
   
   b.  One with  half inch crown (both side centers)

An example of pattern dimensions along the front and rear edge, inside arms and the extensions that form the T at arm front would give good meaning.

Comments regarding filler contents and shape could add to understanding.

I was reviewing my technique and decided to ask for input to do technique comparisons.  The issue is not simply shaping the filler.  Of course filler shape is part of the technical procedure.

Looking forward for your input,

Thanks,

Doyle


kodydog

Good question Doyle. One guy I worked for showed me how to take a straight stick, tape some chalk to the bottom of it and trace the chair cavity on to a template. Of course you have to keep the stick perfectly straight and when your done add for your 1/2" seem allowance.

As far as inner-spring or down feather cushions with large crowns, I have an excellent diagram made by a company that makes these cores. I'll see if I can scan it and get it on this thread.
There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html

MinUph

I just place the over sized fabric on the deck. With a new piece of sharpened chalk run it perpendicular to the deck just touching the IB and IAs add a seam allowance and check it. Most times I will trace both sides and when I trim it I trim half and then fold over so they match. If the chalk lines are way off I will split the difference. This is on a straight front. On a curved front I will do the same thing and then mark the front last with the edge of the chalk add seam allowance and trim and test. It's not hard to keep the chalk straight up and down once you do a few hundred  ;D
Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
Website

sofadoc

My method of blocking out a pattern is very similar to Paul's. I add a 1/2" seam allowance. If the foam core is 4", I cut the boxing 4.5". For a slight crown, I'll cut it 5".
I usually wrap the dacron around the front of the foam core, but not on the sides, or back. For a crown, I'll add either a layer of dacron, or a thin layer of foam on the top and bottom of the core.
I remember that my Grandmother always did the cushions BEFORE she covered the outside arms, and outside back. She did this just in case her cushions were too small, and she had to go back and "stuff out" the inside arms/back to fill the gap. Invariably, she almost always ended up stuffing out the insides. It made her crazy to see me finish off the sofa frame before doing the cushions. She would say "What if you have to add to the inside arms?". I would tell her "If that ever happens, I'll let you know".
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

MinUph

SD ya know my dad and I always did the same thing. Get the insides done make the cushion and we could adjust the arms or back ever so slightly to make the cushion fit perfectly. I still do that to this day. It's much easier than adjusting a cushion. Neither of which happen very often.
Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
Website

sofadoc

June 11, 2011, 06:02:57 pm #5 Last Edit: June 11, 2011, 06:44:52 pm by sofadoc
Quote from: MinUph on June 11, 2011, 05:00:35 pm
we could adjust the arms or back ever so slightly to make the cushion fit perfectly.

Yeah, but my Grandmother had to adjust the arms or back ever so GREATLY!
It looked like the inside arms had a bad case of the mumps.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

needles eye

Hi, for what it's worth the lady i learnt from would take some clear plastic, the stuff the fabric came wrapped up in from the couriers, and would trace the seat out in pieces and then add 15mm seam allowance on to the traced line and then use that template as a pattern to cut out the fabric before sewing it together. You might have to fit and adjust a coupla times for superior results 'though.
For the cushions she'd just measure direct off the cushion itself and then add 30mm seam allowance overall, whether topstitching or piping.

Lynn

Looks like we all do it roughly the same way. Piece of typar bottom cloth for a pattern, nice sharp chalk, a small square if I can't get into the back corners, add 1/2'' to all sides - except if its a sofa then only 1/4'' between each cushion or they end up too tight.

Lynn
Life's too short.....let's go fishing!!!

chrilou130

Until today Supra shoes experience of the 1st generation products are Supra Skytop and the second generation product, namely the supra society. In appending to adult masculine and woman shoes, supra vaider too presents the chance, babies and teenagers enjoy the best life neatness.The first generation of supra footwear use in its soles rubber vulcanizates of Skytop this is an peerless durability basic reason. And comfortable polyurethane materials fashioning protection to increase increased heel doormat. The insole and outsole between is a SupraFoam wafer. Don't see down upon the foam layer character.

needles eye

 oh gosh that's really super  supra