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Staple pulling tool?

Started by baileyuph, February 28, 2016, 07:00:33 am

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baileyuph

I find the 120 1/2  a frequent selection but I suppose due to volume of work performed, it needs sharpened frequently.

The hand file is used to sharpen.  Frequency, every few weeks, best guess.

Due to job which needs to be easier and more efficient, what else is used and is sharpening  possible and done?

Doyle

gene

I have 4 different styles of staple/tack pullers. The only difference I find is that the one with sharp points on it works better when staples are deep into the wood.

I prefer the one with sharp points.

I do find it interesting that people that have worked for me prefer different ones. I don't understand why they don't prefer the one I prefer. I wonder if it's hand size, hand strength, finger strength???

I do sharpen my staple pullers with my WorkSharp on a regular basis.

I am working on designing a pneumatic staple puller using a pneumatic palm nailer. If it works I will post a video to share the wealth.

gene

QUALITY DOES NOT COST, IT PAYS!

Darren Henry

I modified one of the chisels that came with my $20 air hammer



I just added some grooves with a die grinder to look like the "real thing"



It's not perfect for every job, but when I can use it it really speeds stripping up. I have not had to sharpen it yet but easily can if required.
Life is a short one way trip, don't blow it!Live hard,die young and leave no ill regrets!

sofadoc

Years ago, I ordered the Bantam Bully air ripper.

I never had any luck using it. It lacked enough power to do anything with.

Then one day, I happened to glance at the owner's manual, and saw that it required an air consumption of 8 CFM. My compressor is only rated about 5 CFM. Most compressors with higher CFM ratings operate on 220 volts. So I would have to add wiring to my shop in order upgrade to a bigger compressor. This is also the main reason why I haven't bought the Deco-tack nailer.

I have the cheaper air hammer like Darren shows. It works fine on lower CFM. But I find the noise obnoxious, and it can be rough on wood.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

Rich

Quote from: Darren Henry on February 28, 2016, 07:59:22 am
I modified one of the chisels that came with my $20 air hammer



I just added some grooves with a die grinder to look like the "real thing"



It's not perfect for every job, but when I can use it it really speeds stripping up. I have not had to sharpen it yet but easily can if required.


Years ago, I purchased an air chisel tool like that from (I think) Burch Fabrics and together with a cheap Home Depot or Lowes $20.00 air hammer, it works 90% of the time for me. Now, I don't do antiques with fancy wood right near the fabric, but on most other kinds of  work, it's a time-saver. Of course, I do have to go back with my diagonal cutters to pull the die-hards, but it sure beats one-at-a-time.
Another method which I think I saw on this site, is a slotted rod you chuck in a drill to yank the fabric off. That can work also in some cases.
Rich
Everything's getting so expensive these days, doesn't anything ever stay at the same price? Well the price for reupholstery hasn't changed much in years!

kodydog

When sharpening my Osborne 120-1/2 or my Berry staple puller my go to tool is my Dremel rotary tool with this thin cut off wheel. Clamp the tool down and use a light touch, the cut off wheel easily breaks. Works for me.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html