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Repair Air Hose

Started by baileyuph, December 31, 2013, 06:15:21 am

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baileyuph

Situation:  I have two fairly long air hoses, both leak air at the end where factory compresses a metal fitting. 

There are fixtures that can be stuck in and clamps added to secure the airline.

I haven't done this in a while, any new ideas/hardware to work with?  Of course old ideas that work like a charm are equally important. 

Thought I would ask before doing it a way that I don't particularly want.  How much is a hose these days, is it still worth fixing good older hoses?

Doyle

sofadoc

A couple of years ago, I converted to the retractable hose reel. I was loving it until the first leak.

Then I replaced the hose with a better one. But the new hose is TOO good. It's so stiff, the retracting mechanism doesn't work. The hose isn't soft and flexible enough.

So I went back to the soft flexible hose. Now I'm back to repairing the ends often.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

Darren Henry

They say "if it ain't broke--don't fix it". In this case the hose is but the fittings 'Doc just posted have worked well for decades. Half the air hoses we have at work are patched or spliced like that. The only thing I do differently is wrap the hose clamp with electrical tape to keep the free end of the clamp from catching on stuff.
Life is a short one way trip, don't blow it!Live hard,die young and leave no ill regrets!

baileyuph

Taping the end of the hose clamp is a good idea, I was worrying about that clamp catching and scratching things.

Hoses come in two diametes, don't know the specifics but one size (usually a black rubber looking hose) that is some where in the size of 5/8ths or ......well that is close.  The other size which is a dull red or orange smaller hose that reveals less rubber coating and I don't think the outside diameter is much off than 1/2 inch diameter.
But, my question is which do you like best for driving staples?

Another question, are there any of the plastic coil hoses, used at the stapler hookup for greater flexibility for the operator, that will last very long.  I have used those, like I said they are flexible and light, but they never last real long for me.  I liked using them, however, until they broke off at the gun connection.  LOL.

Doyle

MinUph

Doyle,
  It's best to add a 8"-10" section of straight hose to the end of a coiled hose. It takes the stress off the connection and also make the hose more friendly.
Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
Website

baileyuph

Paul,
I think that is a real good idea; retains flexibility and adds durability. 

How is the most durable way to connect the coil to the 8 to 10 inch hose?  What do you do, heat the coil (plastic) to shove the barbed interface in?  I hope to find the right diameter interface because if it is too tight, the plastic coil would split.

To make complete discussion of installing the short hose; after shoving the interface into the plastic, does one use the clamp Darren suggest with tape wrapped? 

Most or some of the coil plastic hoses, if I recall correctly will have a metal protector the hose is fed through.  I guess that was on the coils I used in the past.  I haven't used a coil in a short while.

Doyle

MinUph

I'm thinking new coiled hose with the fitting on. Screwing the fitting to a straight section with preinstalled fittings. I'm not refering to repairing an $8.00 hose.
Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
Website

baileyuph

That would be more ideal Paul, so I will do as you say, pick up the pig tail hose and a coil with compatible interfaces.  I like that better for it should be more durable.

Doyle

sofadoc

January 01, 2014, 07:12:20 am #8 Last Edit: January 01, 2014, 07:13:25 am by sofadoc
I've tried swivel fittings, pigtails, and coiled hoses. None are foolproof. I still end up making repairs to the end of the hose.

Everyone has their little "pet peeves". Mine is a hissing air hose and/or coupling. I can't stand it.

I was in my competitor's shop one day. While we talked, his air hose hissed continuously. His air compressor kicked on 3 times during my brief visit (even though no one was using any air tools).

I've started buying my fittings at a local tractor supply, instead of Lowes/Home Depot. They seem to carry better quality fittings. But they still have to be replaced periodically.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

Allan

Buy a length of good hose and add you own fittings using good quality hose clamps

Hose is measured from the inside diameter

1/2" is the best all round size as it allows for friction loss in a smaller hose
3/8" is ok for short runs but either will work for your application

Allan

brmax

I just picked up a red rubber one at menards for 9.00 I believe it was, It worked for me even being new at 17 degrees so it passed. I had planed on getting another I seen on the site but hey they had 2 left and a youngster had 1 and I picked up the other. I couldn't be sure but the fellow was thinking of needing both, I gave him time but to no avail probably his first. I remember when doing shop work and on mobile the reels I had the opputunity to purchase were the tops, red in color.

SteveA

Friction Loss -  Thanks Allen - new term for me to consider when using the air powered tools.
I've always used the bigger hose 3/8ths for the spray gun (notice materials lays down better) and the 1/4 inch  for the staple gun (lighter hose to deal with) the 1/4 inch I'm using came from Home Depot - it's held up real well - it's polyurethane - a light blue color - no complaints so far it's been 2 years - and buying couplings (Quote = sofa doc)  from the auto parts store or other supplier is definitely a better quality part.
SA