Shapening Serger cutting blades and other things.

[gene]

You can count this as a 'shout out' to Darren Henry.

Many moons ago we had a topic on sharpening scissors. Darren said he used a wet stone (Whetstone) and does it by hand.

When I do chairs like a Louis XV that have the double welt cord around all the panels, I cut the fabric edge with a razor blade - a lot of razor blade cutting. Toward the beginning of this year, I needed a sharp razor blade and instead of going out and buying new blades I remembered what Darren had said and I used my wet stone for the first time ever.

Since then, I have used the same razor blade this entire year. I sharpened my scissors with the stone, AND, I also sharpened the very dull cutting blade on my serger. I can hear and see the improved difference in the serger cutting blade.

I watched a couple of videos on youtube to learn how to use a sharpening wet stone.

This is what I have and I put a bit of sewing machine oil on it when I sharpen with it.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/wet-stone-sharpener

gene

PS: Remember: never run with scissors in your hand unless they are pointed at someone else and you intend to do serious bodily damage to that someone else.

[SteveA]

Ice bound in the northeast today - regluing frames and adding secondary wood nailer sections to the inside  - should change or add new sections to the rails but no budget here -
Something I've done for a long time is touch up tools with a buffing wheel and green rouge.  Polish the cutting surface with rouge and rub the back of the tool flat on the finest stone you have,  - 

SA

[JuneC]

There are some really nice Japanese whetstones on eBay, but the prices get very high (thousands) very quickly.  I'd like to know from someone with firsthand knowledge if they're really worth the extra bucks.  Some of the smaller (3 x 5) 10000 grit stones can be had for around $150.

June

[Darren Henry]

Polish the cutting surface with rouge and rub the back of the tool flat on the finest stone you have,

I have done that routinely as well and have found that after several  trips across the rouge coated cloth wheel you have to run the blade through your grindstone (or what ever) to "square the edge up" as it starts to round out. This is ideal if you are cutting thick leather , but for most of us here a square bevel works best. Rather than a fine stone to de-burr the back edge I use the hide side of a leather 1/2 sole tap the way old barbers use a strop or my steel. Then I lightly slice a piece of sole leather or soft wood to get the last of the burrs and then redo the steel.

Darren said he used a wet stone (Whetstone) and does it by hand.

That is true Gene; but before you can do that ( at least me ) , you have to establish the correct angle on your bevel and "square it up". If you don't it is hard to maintain that angle as you finish of on the whetstone. I do it free hand but most grinders have guides available. I use the finest stone I can get for my grinder---dress it (be quiet Dennis LOL) ---lay the bevel on the stone and adjust my body to to where it aligns with the stone. Then with my elbows lightly tucked  to the seams of my shirt I rock my body past the stone working from tip to haft because the heat goes ahead of you and that can burn a tip on a knife or scissors. Once you have the correct angle then get onto the  stone, then deburr with a strop or the heal of your palm.

Most whetstone instructions will tell you to use either a figure 8 or circles. That is only to keep you from wearing out a "dip" on their stone and making it ineffective. My sage old master pointed out there will always be a microscopic "saw blade" on the edge of your knife---logic dictates that that should line up with the way you cut---not at obscure and changing angles. Master was right. I get a far better edge by running the blade over the stone in the manner it is going to be used and just using up the stone evenly.