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The Business of Making Double Cording - questions

Started by baileyuph, July 31, 2013, 05:22:39 pm

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baileyuph

If you have an efficient, effective system for making double cording, please explain in detail.

I ask because, in spite of producing double cording, it takes way to long.

I have purchased an off the shelf folder hoping that would speed the process up but after several attempts, it doesn't even work well. 

At this time, the strips of material are cut on a bias, larger than needed, then after sewing, I have to go trhrough the process of cutting the excess selvage with hand shears.  It looks fine, but the problem is as I said, takes way to long!

Whatever works for you and is fast and does the job nicely, I would love reading how you do it.

TIA,

Doyle

MinUph

It's always been a PITA for me. But the seamstress at work does it differently than I do. Still have to trim but she moves right along on the machine. She folds it under not over and wraps the first wrap all around the cord. This leaves a double thickness of fabric on one cord but it unnoticeable in the finish product. I was under the impression that a folder would be a great way to do it. Never bought one. Maybe it is the one you have that doesn't do it well or maybe you need to adjust some.
Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
Website

sofadoc

Can't help you, either.
My way is probably the most INefficient of all:
1) Sew the first pass
2) Trim the excess
3) Sew the second pass
4) Trim the excess

With step 2, I don't have the double thickness after the first wrap that Paul spoke of.
Before the second trimming, I spray the edge with a cheap can of aerosol hair spray (or clear polyurethane) to prevent ravels.

I've tried quicker ways before, but I didn't like the results. I've just resigned myself to the belief that there ain't no quicker way. Anyway, since I have a scorching case of Plantar Fasciatis, I'm not really looking to reduce my time sitting behind a sewing machine.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

Mike

Stephen who is I think more seen on cars site told me his way and I find it reat easy first cut your 2 strips of vinyl 1 1/2" or so wide then face to face sew then together down the center then with each color wrap the welt corl and sew as you may know I don't use a folder or welt foot sew the first side then the second color welt   easy peasy

sofa ive got the same foot problem self diagnosed im sure  it a weight isuue not helping   , ridt thing in the morning or after a long time sitting my right foot is sore

baileyuph

I hear ya Dennis, gotta stay off those feet.

I did talk with an engineering service to the sewing industry in binders, etc.  They told me factories have a precise folder/binder machined for the specific material, then it will work.  I didn't get the idea those type of manufactureres had to trim anything after sewing.  They buzz right through the process. 

I don't do enough of any of it to justify doing as they do.  Oh, another point made about factories by the engineering/machinest is when they set the attachment up, usually it isn't removed, it becomes a dedicated work station so to speak.

Outside that, have tried a lot of approaches, bought three or four different sets of welt feet, but sure don't make much money while I do double welt cording.  LOL.

Another issue, hate to hot glue, but stapling isn't always pretty.  Sometimes it is just too hard to hide those staples, and I have a gimp stapler too! 

Can't win.  If it came up more, It would be justifiable to hire the machine grinder guy.

Doyle

momto3fatdogs

So far, my cording has been limited to single, but I have seen "double" cord on a website. I wonder? Do you still have to double sew it if the CORD is already side by side? If you cut the bias strips correctly & wrapped it right, couldn't you cut down on the 2nd pass? Of course buying the double cord would only be worth it if you did a LOT of it. (Or I image so...) I can't remember where I saw it though!

Sam

MinUph

Sam,
It's not necessary to sew it twice. One pass is all it takes. And you can use two lengths of single cord if you dont have the premade dbl.
Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
Website

baileyuph

For SAM,

Manufacturing uses double cord (opposed to two singles) and sew it with one seam.

So no, two seams not required, for manufacturers.  

Non manufactures, the issue varies, why?  Equipment differences.  

And yes, a small custom shop, non manufacturer, can sew the double with one seam.  How fast is the issue with me and how well?  There is nothing wrong sewing it in two passes if the net result is faster and it takes less material.  But, for me it is very slow to do one pass and does require wider strips, a waste of material which can add up quickly.  As a note, wider strips than factories require are required because we need extra fabric to wrap as we sew.

The big difference in manufacturing technique compared to my manual technique is the folder, which wraps the precision precut width of fabric very well in their one pass operation.

That is in contrast to my manual method, I have to use my hands to control the wrapping, plus manual wrapping requires wider strips.  Net effect, very slow to get it consistant, also requires extra trimming when finished (cut wider than needed to start with because of manual wrapping - which factory doesn't do).

Another factor related to manual wrapping, it is hard to produce a nice even width, because hand wrapping as you sew causes inconsistent wrapping tension which, like I said, varies the tension on the sewn wraped fabric, hence changes he width.  The beauty of any cord, double or single, is consistant looking cord.

I am hoping input to this thread will inform me differently, prove me wrong.  I don't make any money doing double cord because it slows me down.  Just necessary at times, for the job.

I am all ears and interested in others technique.  The ideal would be to cut one witdth, no trimming after cord is made, and see the process flow through the machine at a reasonable fast rate with even tension on the folded fabric, ready to be installed.  

Anyone who can do that with all manual methods, please demonstrate.  I would appreciate your skill and knowledge.

Doyle

gene

I learned from this video. Take the time to keep the fabric straight like the guy in the video is doing, trim the selvage edge, and you are done.

Unless it is a period piece or some other rare exception, I always suggest that the customer use double welt cord instead of gimp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oW2Hc3mYBtA

gene
QUALITY DOES NOT COST, IT PAYS!

MinUph

Quote from: DB on August 03, 2013, 06:00:44 am


I am all ears and interested in others technique.  The ideal would be to cut one witdth, no trimming after cord is made, and see the process flow through the machine at a reasonable fast rate with even tension on the folded fabric, ready to be installed.  

Anyone who can do that with all manual methods, please demonstrate.  I would appreciate your skill and knowledge.

Doyle


  This is not possible doing it manually. A folder would be needed to do this in one shot and not have to trim afterwards.

  As gene said it is important to keep the fabric both cut straight and sewn straight because you can pull the fabric tighter this way. I never had any luck on the bias as I pull the fabric yarn very tight. This helps keep the fold while I fold the other side. Left folded half way over the cord pulled very tight then right side pulled over top and sew. The only thing I don't like with my method is that the exposed side of the cording is done at the bobbin side and the indentation between the cording isn't as pronounced. Thats why our seamstress does it the opposite way and folds under. Hers comes out nicer I must say but I can't seem to get the hang of doing it that way. Must be to many years doing it one way.

  I would like to try a folder myself but don't do enough sewing myself anymore to justify it.
Paul
Minichillo's Upholstery
Website

sofadoc

My 2-pass method may take longer, but I'm happier with the results. I don't have any trouble pulling bias strips tight as I fold & sew. I prefer to cut the strips on the bias whenever possible. Bias welt turns corners and drastic curves better. It isn't as likely to kink when turning corners. And both rows are exactly the same thickness. The separation between the rows is just right. You can't see the thread, yet there is just enough separation to bury a staple between the rows if necessary.

Sure, if you have a large sofa with 600 inches or more of DW, it can add over an hour to your completion time. But the alternative of nailheads will take even longer.

Like Paul says, whatever method we got used to doing works best for us, and it's tough to get the hang of a different way.

I saw some pre-made DW at a large fabric outlet once. The raw edge on the back was turned under, and the 2 rows were nice and tight.........in fact, TOO tight to drive an occasional staple between. While that DW might be ideal for covered walls, I prefer mine a little less tight for furniture.

I think that all of these ideas to streamline things are only worth exploring IF you intend to dedicate a separate machine for each purpose. These add-on attachments (such as some type of DW folder) take too long to set up every time. 
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

kodydog

My boss demonstrated the two pass method for me. His method was just as fast and neat as my one pass method. When I tried it I botched it all up.

I do one pass salvage side down. If I concentrate and work quickly it comes out good. Nice and tight, neat channel to hide the thread. Trim the excess off and I'm good to go.
There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html

baileyuph

Kody are you able to wrap and sew for a nice distance between wraps, or is this how you go? 

Your strip widths, are they cut aproximately 2 inches or a little more.

My one pass approach sounds similar, I wish the folder worked more reliably and no trimming.

Time is money, it is great to increase speed without quality compromise.

Doyle