Questions related to marine and outboard covers

[baileyuph]

Customer came with the requirement of modifying existing boat cover on a bass/recreation boat that is one piece, covers the outboard also.

He wants the cover modified to end up with the cover and engine cover separated.  The engine cover will be made, as new to match the existing cover.

Therefore, in general, I will trim the cover (basically flush with the transome - right term)and finish the edge at the trailing edge and affix a couple of ways to attach the primary cover.  Customer said straps will be fine.

Then, the engine cover will have to be fabricated.  Such timing, mike's technique is very glamorous, very tempting.  He even described how he patterns.  Customer said I could just put an elastic in it to hold it on, probably work but will be full of wrinkles.  He said, no worry

I am not sure but given the angle required at the lower edge (engine cover slants like Mike's problem did), it will work, but it will look like I did it.  Wink.  Mike's idea is sweet!

Should the issue come up, couple of questions related to drilling for snaps that go on a fiberglass boat:

1. About how deep is the gel coat?  Is it easy to determine while or after drilling? 

2. The other question is related to counter sinking the hole:

Referencing another thread, fresh now but I am avoiding to disturb it, it was indicated that counter sinking could be taken care of with the same bit used to drill the hole? I understand that means turning the drill essentially 360 degrees to accomplish.
Is the bit a standard metal bit?  Just being cautious.

I am not sure I will be drilling at all, but thought I should prepare in case.  At this point, the customer may want to merely affix a strap or two a the trailing edge of existing cover, after finishing the edge.

As a note, the reason for the modification, customer indicated a large bracket (interface) was installed between engine and boat, which moves the motor back about 12 inches.

Any comments would be interesting.

Doyle
 

[JuneC]

On most boats the gelcoat is around 1/8" thick or less.  But it varies - even on the same boat, depending on where you happen to be drilling.  If you assume it's 1/8" thick, you should be OK.  Unless the gelcoat is a different color from the fiberglass it's hard to spot when you're through it. 

I don't use a countersink bit or the bit I drilled the hole with.  I use the phillips head driver that I'll use to drive in the new stud.  Most fiberglass and gelcoat is soft enough that the driver will grind away the material without chipping.  If you are unsure about what you're doing, when screwing in the new stud, use a manual screwdriver, not a battery/electric.  When the threads of the screw start to hit gelcoat, you can actually hear a crackling as you start to chip up the gel with micro-cracks.  If you hear a bit of crackling back it out and countersink some more.  The screw threads will make no noise whatsoever if it's only in fiberglass (as it should be).

June

[Mike]

doyle on drill I  use a 1/8" bit drill all the way in .average the gelcoat is about 1/8"  or less take you screw bit tip and just round the gelcoat a few seconds to bevel the edge so the screw dosent chip the gelcoat.  as far as cutting the the motor part off the cover ive seen covers that were supported by the motor meaning the canvas came from the window down at a angle to the top on the tilted up motor other that angled down ignoring the motor then a cover on the motow sewn attached to the cover all in one  you may need a support pole if there isn't one now as far a making the motor cover with a bungy in the bottom hem unlike my zipper method ive don't that I pattern all with all the separate pieces except at the bottom rather then form fitting the tucked in angle at the bottom of most  I just have a 4 or so  inch panel hemmed with a bungy to suck it in snug

[baileyuph]

June - the description is very clear, very logical.  Counter sinking with the #3 phillips bit, makes a lot of sense.  Just enough to avoid cracking but not bigger than the stud diameter, is the way I read.  I hear you on the variable of the gel depth.  Never thought of that parameters characteristic.

Mike - I like the idea of blending a fully fitted cover and a bungee tightened cover.  Your picture where some fitting was blended with a bungee will meet customer expectations very well.  He is a little price sensitive, but wants the work done.

Also, I see the pole you mentioned to.  I don't know if that will be needed at this point, but it certainly stabilizes the cover over the rear section.  My experience with poles is to strategically locate them to counter pooling.   I was impressed by the fit across the end of the boat.  Did it require any snaps or hooking straps for securement.  I could not detect that any were needed.  It appeared the side to side tension (from rear corner to rear corner) did the job.  I will probably have to add couple of hooks or drill, like stated don't know yet.

The boat work will begin as the ongoing engine work is completed.  I was able to match the older original boat cover material (Dixon).

By golly, glad I asked. 

Thanks to both of you. 

Doyle

[Mike]

Yes dickson. Or was coastguard. Matches su brella and others well my cover show. Had snaps all srounf the edge and a ski pylon sock at the rear
If he want a  chesp motor. Cover  i thi k some wouldnt mind a top long and wide enough sith sides and a bungy.

[Grebo]

I do same as June, separate drill & driver. Used to have one drill that had two  heads, one over the over B & D I think is was. One drill two heads snap on snap off for small jobs. Now two machines makes more sense no small bits to roll over the side.


Suzi