Discouraged, need insight!

[bobbin]

I have a Juki 1541.  I love it.  No question about that.  But... I ordered a 1/4" "toe welting" set up for it and am now finding that it's not the right "fit" for a lot of the work I'm presently doing.  The 1/4" set up was great for the beefier acrylics (awning/boat canvas weight) but now that I'm routinely faced with the lighter weight, "furniture" acrylics that 1/4" set up seems too big.  I find there is either too much slack between the 5/32 foam insert or the slack is "folded" and stitched through.  NOT OK. 

I clearly need a welting set up that is smaller.  But I am not sure what size or whether or not order another "toe welting" set up.  I like that the "toe welting" set up allows crispt corners, but there is also a lot of "wiggle room" on straight runs.  I am presently mining the vein of patio set cushion recovers, so "fashion" fabrics are the focus, so "lighter" is better.  I've found myself using my straight needle feed Juki (9010) and a one sided cording foot to apply the welting, but clearly my present 1/4" welting set up is inadequate. 

Hope you can help.

[sofadoc]

I know that you've stated your dis-trust for E-Bay, but you might want consider a 3 different size set like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/WALKING-FOOT-CONSEW-S68-WELTING-FEET-W-CUTOUT-3-SETS-/350415116505?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51965e58d9
The E-bay welt feet are cheap enough to gamble on.
I know what you mean about the foam welt. I much prefer the tissue welt.

[baileyuph]

You are closer to the problem than a reader would be, therefore we will likely ask dumb questions:

List your procedure in high detail, that is your sequence of things and what that sequence is, also note the foot used in each sequence. 

Cutting on the bias?

sewing cording in a single pass?

attaching cording to face plate in a single pass, then joining that to a boxing?

Or

forming the cord to the face plate, boxing in a single pass.



I would think that most who have sewn a lot have had this problem and found something that works in terms of a sequence and foot (feet) used, perhaps even a technique variance to overcome inconsistent cording.  A 5/32 inch foam core filler and a thin fabric would encourage me to think it through pretty thoroughly.

Doyle

[Mike8560]

This prompt won't help but I don't use a welt foot ever I did this sette on my last boat 5/32" polyfoam and sunbrella fabric   Ignore the dog
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/BLue%20Dolphin%201/img_0999.jpg

[JuneC]

Here's what I've found with my toe-welt setup - 1/4" just like yours.  After a turn, the inner foot twists slightly towards the outside allowing the fabric to be loose - it works great just like that if I'm doing a two-pass installation and I just want a loose application to the top plate.  After I return the inner toe to a straight on, forward-facing position, it tightens up nicely.  The screw on my inner toe just doesn't get tight enough to hold position unless I really put some torque on it (which is how I found this issue in the first place).  So....  my suggestion is to try turning the inner foot, the part pointing at you, towards your right as you face the machine.  This minor adjustment should pull in the fit. 

June

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

I get more than a few sewn samples every week, if you like, send us some sample materials, test materials, and I can best match up a cording foot size for you.  No other way to do this to match up.  And, like all of our products, guaranteed to work.

[bobbin]

I cut my welt on the bias.  I prefer to apply it to the top and bottom pcs. and then attach the boxing.  I use the 1/4" toe welting set up for the operation (well, I'd like to!).  Because I've had such trouble with the present set up I've had to revert to my 9010 (a basic, needle feed machine) and am presently using a 1/4" solid foot to apply the welting to the tops and bottoms.  The result is very acceptable, but I really prefer the walking foot machine for cushions and need to refine the welting set up for that machine. 

We use a 1/4" straight welting set up at my straight job and it offers none of the difficulties I've encountered with the toe welting set up, but it's not easy and smooth to turn corners, either.  Often, the stitching that secures the welting to the plates is visible at the corner point.  A "no-no" in my book. 

Thanks for you help.

[sofadoc]

Is it imperative that you use foam welt? I find it much easier to "hug" fiber-flex (tissue) welt. And of course, fiber-flex welt bends around corners, making it easier to cover the previous stitching.
Some might say that fiber-flex isn't made for outdoor applications, but I've found that it lasts at least as long as the fabric does.

[bobbin]

Yeah, I'm afraid so, Sofa..  It's really the proper material for marine work and I live in a humid, marine climate with mildew and mold as a constant adversary.  I have tried using nylon or polyester cord and really like the way it handles a lot more than that foam stuff, just haven't gotten around to sourcing the best price on a majorly large reel of it.

[jojo]

I just bought a new roll here:

http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Ropes_and_Cords/Welt_Cord/Welt_Cord_-_Foam/index.html

$20 for 500 yards.

[baileyuph]

Bobbin, Your technique (walking foot) and mine are almost similar or equal.

I usually use two machines to accomplish my cushion which translates into two passes, one on one machine and the other on a different machine.

My first pass is like yours, cover the core and apply it to the plate.  I do this with a foot similar to a zipper foot, except my foot is a binding foot, I was told it was taken from the hat trade.  The binding foot only differs from the zipper foot in that the needle hole isn't flush with the edge of the foot, instead more toward center but not quite that far.

This foot permits the cord to be covered and applied to the plate in one pass, the seam is uniformally spaced not on but close to the cord filler.
The advantage is obvious, the second pass is closer and no previous seam thread shows.  In my shop, the second pass, as already explained is accomplished on the second machine with the appropriate size welt foot.    

My first seam, done with the binder foot, is accomplished with a longer stitch length and the cord covering is clipped for a smooh lay at the corners, it sets the stage for the second pass to yield that perfect cord look.

This technique works for me and it has some practicality in seaming vinly because you aren't punching a lot of needle holes in the same area of the material.

That is the first point I set out to make.

Now the last point, since my last pass is done on German engineering, the welt foot options now include not only a 3/16  or  1/4  inch welt foot. I can select either a 5 mm or 6 mm to meet my needs as both sizes are between  the two english sizes (3/16 and 1/4).  I do appreciate these extra options when dealing with thin fabrics and vinyls.

If a shop only uses fiber flex cord filler in 5/32, then, probably the 1/4 inch welt foot would get the job done most of the time.

Last comment, three welt feet for less than $50 is a very good price, but only if the needs are met.  They haven't always worked out for me.  Some are better than others, I would think.  

Doyle

[sofadoc]

Here's an experiment you can try:
Pre-sew the foam welt with some THIN fabric, then cover that with your regular fabric. If that takes away the "wiggle room", then you probably need to go down to a 3/16" welt foot.

[Grebo]

This prompt won't help but I don't use a welt foot ever I did this sette on my last boat 5/32" polyfoam and sunbrella fabric   Ignore the dog
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/BLue%20Dolphin%201/img_0999.jpg

How can we ignore the dog,  aarrh. I am sure we had the same material on our boat  ::)

Suzi