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I know the Yamata name from multi-needle machines.  They're ubiquitous and that says a lot in garment work!  I'll wager the machine will treat you right and I'll wager you're savvy enough to keep it well oiled and maintained, Paul.

Uhh, yeah... the stuff!  thanks, Min..

Joe is  a "kid"! he really does like being "told what to do"! but his memory is short because he's a "kid".  Stick with the routine, make sure the commands are always uniform and that  you follow through within 3-5 seconds.  You say it, he does it.  End of story! make him "hold it" and then praise lavishly! waiting and looking to you for "release" is the goal, Virginia.

LOTS OF EXERCISE before you get to work on the obedience stuff.  Burn off the energy and he'll be much more receptive to what needs to be practiced.  Trust me on this! he's so full of dynamite that concentrating is just too hard at a time when learning the voice and hand commands is still new and he just has to race around like a fool. You're doing everything right, and keep up the good work.  Too many people wimp out when it gets "hard", don't be an "obedience pussy".  Stick with it!  (patterned a slip. the other day in a home with an obese, fear aggressive mini-Schnauzer.  Was told, "Don't look at her or speak to her and she'll be fine."  No kidding).

My reply?  "OK, but trust me, if your dog even tries to bite me I will drop-kick her into the afterlife.  Or, you can keep her behind her behind a securely closed door and both of us will be secure." I winked and went about my work.  This particular "Homey" don't play that! sorry!

Me?  I'm a "job creator".  I have a couple of friends who sharpen their own tools (chisels for carving) and I happily fork over pork to have them "liven up" my cutters.  We talk shop, and my tools come back nice and sharp and buffed and oiled to a handsome sheen. 

Reminds me to ask (again) about the scissor sharpener that Doc recommended years ago... never jotted it down (chin on chest) but would like to have one, 

My tables are made of the particle board that comes with a white "formica" laminated to it (brain cramp, can't recall the correct name).  I also have homosote toppers that I can put on and take off when I want to swap over for drapery work (requires a lot of pressing, and steam will bubble the "formica" finish without protection).  Over that I have custom fitted pads and a canvas topper that snaps into place to create a giant "ironing board".  I made them myself.

I do a variety of work; and Roman, London, and Austrian shades are part of it.  I have to have a surface that allows me to press the goods (so steam, heat, and humidity are part of the deal) and also pin things out to get a precise and "square" shape.  The homosote pcs. protect against steam degradation and allow for easy pinning.  Sure, it's work to "change over", but I build that into the quoted price for the work involved.  My canvas covers have been washed several times and still fit beautifully.  In drapery work, cleanliness is important!

I buzz around the cushion pcs. with my overlock (W&G, w/3 threads, 14/16 needle, and #29 poly. thread, no differential feed adjustment).  I adjust the differential feed a tad and overlock the welting strip, too (this minimizes the stretch as the bias is pulled under the needle).  I stitch the ends of the welt strip closed, rather than folding them closed.  I generally cut acrylics with my Engel hot knife, but will use shears and the overlock on the lighter weight acrylics. 

I apply the welt to the plates on my walking foot machine, using 18/20 needle, #46 or #69 poly. thread (depends on the fabric's hand), 1/4" foot, 5/32 poly. welt, and 5-6 stitches/inch.  No adjustment to step on the inside foot.  I join the boxing to the plates and carefully mark the corners and along any seams that are going to require precise shaping, or be really long (eg. V berth cushions or long window seat cushions).  When working on vinyls, I'll use a wedge point needle and sometimes lengthen the stitch a scooch and perhaps increase the step on the inside foot.  I topstitch with #138 poly. thread and #20 needle. 

I am careful about making the time to adjust tension, esp. with topstitching  because the thread weight is considerably higher; was "burned" by failure to this on a big job one time; mistakes on vinyl and leather can't be massaged away as is often the case with wovens.

I don't try to cut down the number of trips around a cushion although the time savings is appealing.  I know my method works for me and delivers consistent results; and over the years I've developed an orderly system of cutting and assembly.  I do higher end, custom work, pay attention to details, and charge accordingly. 

Ain't that the truth!  And when you're really pissed off it's a whole lot harder to take a deep breath, think a little bit, and take a new tack. 

I have "lost it" a few times.  Really yelled, grabbed the scruff of his neck and given it a really good shake! proud? not hardly.  But it did make an impression and I recovered quickly enough to go right back to basics.  Things that were "easy" for him and easy to praise.  Back to basics is key.

My dog has taught me every bit as much (prolly more) as I've taught him!

Gene mentioned earlier on that certain breeds are better suited to certain owners.  I think his observation was "spot on". 

Labs. are wonderful dogs, but for me? too "cling-y".  Always underfoot and "in the way".  In my experience they don't know how "take a powder" (but I'm a cat person).  I've found that I prefer the more independent nature of working dogs and terriers.  And I'm willing to do the work to train them; not everyone is "wired that way".  I should note that people with the aforementioned breeds of dog who DON'T train them piss me off big time. 

I had horses in my earlier years.  The most important lessons I learned were:
1.)  it's easier to "outsmart" them than out muscle them
2.)  you achieve more with patience and praise than with punishment
3.)  if the lesson is not taking hold, go back to the basics because YOU'VE obviously failed in teaching a basic command!
4.)  training is a reflection of YOU.  If the animal "doesn't get it" you are the responsible party!

I add 3/8-1/2" seam allowance to the top and bottom pcs.  I would cut the boxing for 3" foam at 3 1/2- 3 5/8".  I take a 1/2" seam allowance when joining pcs.  For the foam I add a solid 1/2" to the finished perimeter dimensions, and that depends on the density and quality of the foam. 

I find my recipe allows the boxing to pull the top and bottom nicely over the cut edge of the foam.  If you don't like the "look" you can add batting to fluff up the top/bottom or you can give the foam a haircut. 

That sucker ain't gonna be any fat lady's dream to stuff!  Eat your Wheaties.  :)

I would like to point out that Joe looked at the Pit "a lot".  And the Pit was returning the same behavior.  A prolonged "eye lock" is a challenge for dominance between two dogs who both fancy themselves "alpha".  That was an issue with our dog who is big and very strong.   Work really hard on the "watch me" command, Virginia.  Use it frequently and every single time Joe looks to you see how long you're able keep him looking into your eyes instead of the other dog's.  Lavish him with loving praise when he will hold your eyes, esp. with a "distraction".  It's harder than you think, but it's the quickest way to diffuse a potentially dangerous situation.  I also suggest working hard on "leave it" and how to deliver a corrective jerk to break Joe's focus on a challenging dog.  And then keep right on doing the lessons Joe  does so well!  Think of the corrective  jerk and a "reminder" that it's more FUN to be with you.  Obedience work is really about "socializing" dogs.  Socializing is more about politely ignoring other dogs and greeting people with respectful acceptance.

Obedience work is about teaching the handler how to work effectively with the dog.  It takes practice and commitment and perhaps the class was the Pit's first, after spending the week in a cage/run with only basic human contact?  All dogs are potentially aggressive, esp. when leashed, in a strange place, and surrounded by several other dogs!  Working dogs are intelligent and protective, and they're usually good sized animals.  Terriers were developed to kill vermin and drive off larger nuisance animals.  They're smart, athletic, and focused dogs and are fully capable of doing great damage.

Excellent points on the degradation of certain breeds.  Collies with eye problems, GSDs with hip issues, etc.. 

This is a NILIF household, Perry!  It's a ton of work up front.  You have to require and enforce compliance.  You say it, the dog DOES IT.  "Negotiation" is not part of the equation.

Perry,

I read your thoughtful reply and pretty nearly all the points you made were my own observations when training our dog!  I think many dog "owners" fail to recognize the subties  of personality that diverse breeds present.  Gene pointed that out earlier in this thread and he was spot on. 

The real "key" is to making it work with your dog is to focus on the personality traits you like and discourage those you dislike.

Blows my mind that too many fail to focus training on the positive.  Praise, Practice,PERFECT. 

18/19? I don't think there's a helluva lotta difference, frankly.  And before anyone wants to get into it, how about we discuss, "ball point, wedge point, and basic round point" with respect to needles?

18/19? basically the same damn thing... the "size" depends on who make needles. If you want 20 and a 21 is in stock, BUY IT! 

I do a lot of marine work.  I use DOT. 

I think the "deep hidden meaning" in obedience work is, making your dog an easy-going, pleasant companion.  You both have to speak the same language and the human has to be "Cap't. of the Dog Ship" to make that happen.  Obedience class was the key to

I loved training our dog.  It was rewarding, and it was the best reason in the world to get outdoors regardless of work load.  Win-Win for dog and humanoid!