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I bought one of these several months ago and have tried to adjust it (unsuccessfully, so far!) on and off since then. 

Here's the problem:  I am using 3/4" standard acrylic double fold bias binding but I still can't get the the stitching to catch the lower half of the binding on an outside curve.  I spoke with my local mechanic and he suggested levelling out the folder which I've tried.  The idea is that levelling out the folder allows slightly more binding to be fed through on the bottom.  The result is better, but it is still not catching the lower portion of the binding.  I am trying to bind 2-3 layers of sunbrella and I know this should be easily within the capability of the binder because I used to use one in another shop I worked for; it's pretty standard fare in marine canvas construction. 

I have tried using a binder foot with the set up, but it doesn't make any difference, the trouble seems to be within the folder... any bright ideas from any of you?  I really don't want to package it up and send it back and forthe to the supplier if it's something I can figure out on my own, but I may just have to admit defeat and do that.  It just seems like a waste of everyone's time. 

OK, figure the machine gurus will weigh in, at least I hope so. 

I'm interested in converting two machines to servo motors.  One is a blindstitch, the other is my overlock, both are presently powered by conventional 1/2HP motors.  I have two full function Jukis with servo motors and have come to love them because:
1.)  they're so QUIET
2.)  they allow precise, "one stitch at time" control

I checked out a SewQuiet servo while at a local shop and was not happy with the amount of noise it made when called on to power the machine.  Is that level of noise commonplace in replacement servo motors, or are there models/makes that are quieter?

I understand that the motors on my Jukis are "top of the line" but is there a replacement motor in a more affordable price point  that rivals the quiet operation I've grown to love so in those machines?  Or am I just too horribly spoilt?

I have a Juki 1541.  I love it.  No question about that.  But... I ordered a 1/4" "toe welting" set up for it and am now finding that it's not the right "fit" for a lot of the work I'm presently doing.  The 1/4" set up was great for the beefier acrylics (awning/boat canvas weight) but now that I'm routinely faced with the lighter weight, "furniture" acrylics that 1/4" set up seems too big.  I find there is either too much slack between the 5/32 foam insert or the slack is "folded" and stitched through.  NOT OK. 

I clearly need a welting set up that is smaller.  But I am not sure what size or whether or not order another "toe welting" set up.  I like that the "toe welting" set up allows crispt corners, but there is also a lot of "wiggle room" on straight runs.  I am presently mining the vein of patio set cushion recovers, so "fashion" fabrics are the focus, so "lighter" is better.  I've found myself using my straight needle feed Juki (9010) and a one sided cording foot to apply the welting, but clearly my present 1/4" welting set up is inadequate. 

Hope you can help.

Tis the season!  I'm into glass replacement hell, seems every single one I've had calls for 40 gauge Strata.  All the shears in the shop are dull as hoes so trimming the new stuff and cutting out the old stuff is beyond torture.  What do you guys use to accomplish the feat?  Is there any kind of tool out there along the lines of a beefed up seam ripper that will allow you run the cutting edge along the inside of the window?

I was asked about doing this for a V berth on a large boat.  I have only done a little bit of this sort of work and my question relates to how much "extra" I should leave so the top sheet, blanket, coverlet, can be tucked in  easily, but there is still enough to cover two sleeping bodies without leaving them uncovered. 

I have no trouble with the fitted bottom sheet or the mattress cover, but the top sheet and covers have me scratching my head.  Anyone?

I see this as a nice addition to my services as I have the perfect equipment to make doing it easy and fast.  I just don't want to make a mistake with someone's fabric by being too skimpy with the final shape. 

I do work that requires me to press as I work.   I quickly realized that dragging drapery panels to the an ironing board sucked.  So...

Rolling work table (48"x96") with a melamine top received a fold down leaf (24"x 96").  The leaf is supported by 3 legs on folding hinges.  I bought Homasote (48"x96") and cut it into pcs. 24"x96".  The pcs. can be stored under the table when I don't want a padded surface. 
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I used the compressed padding for upholstery as the padded cover, joining the widths by butting them to each other and joining them with a pc. of canvas as the "hinge":
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I fitted this "blank" to the table top with the Homasote in place, stretching and pinning it until it was as snug and flat as I wanted it to be:
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I did the same thing with raw canvas that I preshrank and joined, reinforcing the edges that would be pulled under the melamine top with a double folded edge:
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Here's the final product.  I may press on it with abandon.  It doesn't have any "bag".  And, I can remove it easily if I don't want to work on it, OR, if I want to launder it!
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I now have 3 outlets in the ceiling and lengths of chain that carry the water hose and the electric cords down the entire length of the two padded tables (16' total length).  This was a huge improvement and has saved me a lot of time on projects. 

I've finally downloaded pictures from my camera and here are some of a slipcover I recently finished for my shop. The chair was a "cull" from a home down the road; perfectly serviceable in every way (very comfortable), just dated and "tired":
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I used fabric I've been hoarding for over 25 yrs. (yup!) and I decided I preferred the "wrong side" for the project in question.  I used the directions in a book I picked up a month/so ago; until now I've been able to use a tattered slip. for a pattern as they've fit the chair in question satisfactorily, and the customer asked me to use the original as a pattern.  
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I quickly learned to allow more than 1" extra when dealing with rolled arms and a strongly grained pattern... I came up short on the back edge and rather than skew the pattern off centre down the top of the arm, I opted to add in a wedge that would be barely noticeable under the roll of the arm:
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I opted for the centre back button closure because I also came up scant for a decent zipper allowance on the side.  I don't have a finished shot of the buttoned closure, but it looks nice (and the pattern match was pulled into line):
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Here is a detail of the arm front and cushions:
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And here is the full shot of the finished product:
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In all, I'm pleased.  I was able to match pretty well and keep the straight lines of the fabric's print reasonably square and straight.  I learned to leave more "ease" on fabric pcs. that will be fitted around curved areas... better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it!  It took me a fair piece of time, but I also took my time fitting, did a lot of settling back on my haunches and thinking about the next move, and took things apart that didn't please me.  I have a much better idea of what aspects of a slipcover require the most fussing to get the final, pleasing result I'm looking for.  I also have enough fabric left over for arm protectors and to cover a small stool that will really complete the comfy chair effect!

I've been hard at work on mastering slipcovers, tweaking my fitting skills and production techniques.  Thusfar, I've used plastic toothed chain (#5) and plastic sliders.  But I don't like the bulky plastic sliders.  Do any of you use brass zipper chain and brass sliders? what are you using and why/why not are you using it?

Crammage's comment about horsehair going into the landfill got me thinking about it.  I'm not an upholsterer, but am a furniture junkie.  I know horsehair is excellent "stuffing"; do any of you upholstery gurus ever clean it?  I'm asking because one of my books suggests sewing it into a pillow case and laundering it! then setting it out in the sunshine to dry.  Is this nuts?

OK, frustrating day at the sweat shop today.  I'm doing an interior (nearly a dozen cushions), working with a navy velour, and am required to cut the boxing down the selvedge.  Some of the zipper boxings are upwards of 90" long and I'm having a terrible time getting the zipper chain to lie anywhere near flat.  It rolls and the velour is stretching.   I can "pull it out" but the point is, it shouldn't require "pulling" to lie flat!

Normally, I prefer to cut boxing cross grain to minimize this effect, but it's "not my sandbox" and I have to play by the rules!  Can any of you offer some suggestions to make this less frustrating?  I am so thoroughly irritated right now I can't think of much, lol.  I'm running 92 poly. thread (we have nothing lighter weight) and an 18 needle on a Consew 255RB.  I don't have any other machine options.  The boxing is folded in half and I place the folded edge over the centre of the zipper teeth (#5 chain), obviously the zipper chain is on the bottom.  Thoughts?

I presently have 1/4" welting feet for my Juki.  I would like to be able to offer customers a choice of cording sizes for their custom projects.

I am interested in adding a couple of other sizes to my collection.  For those of you in the upholstery line of work what other common sizes do you stock for your machines? 

 

I need some insight on the sorts of programs I should include when ordering a laptop.  I can't afford a Mac.  I'm looking at Dell Inspiron 15". 

Do you think it's important to include both Microsoft Word and Quickbooks in the initial purchase?  I have never used Word (or Quickbooks which nearly everyone here recommends).  I'm trying to keep costs down and would really appreciate any insight you could offer into this. 

I'm inclined to buy Quickbooks and skip Word, but I don't know.  So, I figured I'd ask you and find out how much you use Word.  I know how to type and I like to write, so I wonder if its purchase may be a good way to begin learning how to use it effectively.  Thoughts?

[yikes]

I need your opinions on this one, guys.  I just completed a job at work using a very difficult fabric (Rob't Allen, $180/yd.!).  It was a rayon/cotton blend with a large embroidered floral pattern.  Lovely stuff, until I turned it over... yikes! all the different colored threads for the embroidered motifs were simply carried over from one part of the design to the next.  There were spans of thread that were 5" across and if cut could've been used for tassels!.  Once the pieces were cut there were hanks of multi-colored thread hanging every where and there was the ever present threat of snagging them on something and pulling the face out of wack. 

I was at my job and there is virtually no equipment there (what little there is is poorly maintained or filthy) and was just about beside myself.  I ended up backing the fabric with lining and then brought the pieces home and overlocked them with my own machine.  I honest don't know what I'd have done had the pieces required cording!  How do you deal with this kind of fabric? do you bond something to it, trim the carried over threads, "just deal with it"? what?

Mojo's great question inspired this one.  What 3 things would you like to add to your business in the coming year?

Does anyone here work on a padded work table and also press on it?  I have a great new cutting table and would like to make a cover (preshrinking the cotton for the cover now)and padding for it so I may use my iron on it.  I had trouble pressing the tablecloth I made and wonder if there is anyone here who has that arrangement in their shop?  I am not sure what to use for padding under the cover and on top of the bench or where to get it.

A post about swapping out presser feet on walking foot machines inspired this question.  Are there different feed dog/throat plate configurations available for  a straight needle feed machine (Juki 9010 with trimmers)?  I ask because I have a number of distinctly right or left side presser feet for my old drop feed machine that I'd like to be able to use on my Juki (would have to mill out the needle opening).  I have also been disappointed with the narrow zipper foot's performance with the present (stock) feed dog/throat plate. 

I just wanted to tell you that I ordered an Acu-Cutter 500 foam saw through this site last Thursday.  It arrived on Saturday (I was shocked), in perfect condition, and it cuts like a dream (both blades move on the 500).  I've needed one for a long time now and I felt the price was very fair; I couldn't handle the price of Bosch.  If you are considering buying one, know that I'm delighted with mine. 

I know several of you use laptops in the course of your business.  I need to upgrade an elderly PC and have been urged to look at Apples, sp. the laptops.  Do any of you use them? why did you decide to go the Apple route as opposed to a PC? overall thoughts/commentary?

I've never collected deposits from customers because alteration work is generally a pay per service/piece trade; it's labor/knowledge intensive.  Supplies are usually negligeable (zippers, interfacing, buttons/snaps, etc.) and they're items I have on hand that are certainly not expensive to stock.  But now I want to move into work that requires a more expensive supply inventory; specific fabrics/supply requirements.  How do you guys handle deposits? how much do you require? do you base the deposit amount on the total job estimate? need help... don't want to struggle any more than I must to bring my fledgling business "up to speed". 

This has been the toughest aspect for me.  So much of what I want to do in the future is dependent on a business name:  business cards, website, foundation of an LLC, "to the trade" vendor accounts, etc..  Heretofore, I've concentrated on alteration work and have simply given people my name, but that needs to change if I wish to branch out into other, related areas of expertise. 

How did you guys settle on your business name?  What criteria did you use in selecting the "winner"?