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I have two Adlers model 267 Great machines cant think of any down sides to them except cost, but that is outweighed by longevity, Ive owned them for 30 years and never had to repair anything on them.  You could probably pick up a good used one and never have to worry about it. 

Staple guns:  I went through electric ones like water, now I keep one just incase something goes wrong with my pneumatic, or when I am out on a call.  I use a Rainco long nose, way better than electric, much lighter and you can dial it in by adjusting air pressure.  Jams are not a problem with a high quality gun.  Draw back, they are expensive especially when you consider all the other stuff, compressor, hose, air pressure regulator and fittings, but all that stuff sure comes in real handy in the shop for many other uses.  Air compressors are loud and I highly recommend setting one up in a different room if possible.  I bought air hose from Home Depot, big mistake, I keep cutting off a foot because they burst, going to buy a much better quality one soon.

Good for everyone who declares that Christmas is still a holiday!  I think pausing for a bit at the shortest, darkest time of the year is a good thing to do.

Bobbin:  I agree, but we like to think of it as celebrating the return of the "Sun" as the 21st is the solstice and the days start getting longer.

Thanks guys, glad you enjoyed it, I still have to put up part 7, but I take it you already peeked ahead! LOL

Chris:  I have been doing that for years, I usually shut down on the 22nd and dont open until the first.  At first it was very hard to do and I would like to say it gets easier, but dead lines stress me so much that if I don't plan right I end up finishing up deadlines instead.   Over the past years I have started cautioning my customers about holiday deadlines,  now right after Thanksgiving I am always booked up until after the first of the year, regardless of how much work is in the shop.  This is not a dishonest statement, because I have that time booked, booked for myself and my family!

I sew my skirts differently, I like to line them and fold the ends in when installing on the piece, it helps when lining up a pattern.

I sew the welt both ways, blind, or with welt up, I prefer to have the welt up so I can see that my stitches are in the right place.  I base my decision on the fabric I am using at the time.  Personally, I feel the folded butt joint when joining the welt cord in the back is kind of cheesy, I like to miter the joint, it spreads the fabric out and shows less of a bump and hides the joint better.

http://youtu.be/SlK7LHt0wvw?list=UUiTn2kpB0EZySO7U-odTGag

http://12160.info/profiles/blogs/why-did-the-police-shooting-of-michael-brown-receive-national?overrideMobileRedirect=1

During my auto trim years I used to bind lots of auto carpets.  Then a guy who owned a remnant store brought me a home carpet to bind, I did the job but, told him I was not interested in any future business.  Home carpets, even area rugs are usually very large and require a lot of room if you are using your regular machine.  They also tend to be very stiff and just plain difficult to work.

Thanks Mike.  I am hoping to get a lot done this winter, but so far I have been spending all my free time getting everything ready for winter that I haven't had any time to work on it.

It's the new shabby chic, with the distressed look!

http://youtu.be/8KUlaSE2AYI?list=UUiTn2kpB0EZySO7U-odTGag

I have found spring selection to be more of an art than a science.  A taller spring will usually give a softer seat, but to high can lead to an exaggerated crown. Don't expect to get the springs tied down to seating height on the first front to back tying, you will also have to pull them down some on the side to side tie also. But I like to tie my springs tight, relying on the springs to regulate seating softness, or firmness, not the tying itself.  The webbing will stretch and sage some, this is normal and I would say essential, if no sage the springs are not tied tight enough, in my opinion.  I also use spring up nails, not webbing tacks, a properly tied spring system will pull the webbing tacks out.  Always make sure to drill a pilot hole for the spring up nails to avoid splitting the frame.  You might also notice the frame rails bending in some towards the springs, again normal, it's amazing just how much tension the springs apply to the chair when properly tied down.  I mention all this because I see so many springs tied wrong, about 80% of the furniture I reupholster has improperly tied springs.  One upholster just follows what he, or she found and the mistake just keeps getting repeated.  I like to stuff some cotton into the inside of each spring, pulling it out so the springs wire can't rub against each other, gives me a little insurance against a noisy spring.

I like to install the edge wire first, before I start tying.  This helps me to keep the springs lined up along the front edge of the frame, I usually have trouble keeping the springs forward enough, tying the springs down enough has never been a problem for me.  I like to clip, and tie the edge wire to the springs, I have never had any trouble with the clips cutting my spring twine.  I use jute spring twine, not nylon.

http://youtu.be/NqYbdj2r9M4?list=UUiTn2kpB0EZySO7U-odTGag

F150 and a cargo trailer.