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Hey Mojo, how's the chemo going this time around.  Not so much fun, I'm sure  :'(  Hang in there.  Here's something to bring a smile to your face.  And all you other RV'ers  8)

http://now.msn.com/video-shows-trucks-demolishing-camper

June

Bobbin's thread about leading edge for marine work brought this back to mind...  lAt Manart the other day picking up some stuff and they had these on the counter. 

   http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/New_Products/Hardware/YKK_SNAD_40mm_Adhesive_Domed_Stud/index.html

Says they sell a BUNCH of them.  I've seen them before, but was always suspicious of the adhesive.  Apparently they work.  S. Florida canvas shops wouldn't be buying scads of them if they failed.  Anyone out there have any first-hand experience with them?

June

If this doesn't bring a smile to your face, something's wrong with you... just sayin.  BTW, crank up the volume.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbsnSinCPtk&sns=fb

June

I own a version of this machine - the 489-S.  There's a company in NJ that makes dies for it (discontinued by Stimpson).  It's a great machine if anyone's in need of one.  As I recall, I paid $180 for mine, but it came with self-piercing dies, not spur grommet.  The dies are around $200 or so.

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/for/2880540011.html

June

At least it's new to me.  Found a non-woven product inside some cushions I've never seen before.  Really kool stuff.  It has multicolored threads 1/4" apart all along one edge.  It ensures your pulls are all the same depth when stapling - just follow the color.  Any idea who carries it?  I'll post a pic at the end of today. 

June

I'm having trouble getting the info.  They provide skins (at a hefty price) so aren't too anxious to ante up the info on what vinyl they used.  I'm looking at some seat replacements on a 2005 that only needs a few panels replaced, not the whole thing.

June

So how do YOU shape the forward glass panels on those small boats where the windshield angles forward (at maybe 40 - 45 degrees or so) and around toward the stern, meanwhile the panel hangs straight down?  I've done it two different ways - one creates a good fit, but takes too long, the other creates a bad fit IMHO.

Most I've seen are done the fast way - the panel is simply pulled and snapped to the top of the windshield and there are pulls and buckles in the vinyl all over the place.  It just doesn't fit closely like it should because of the angle and curve of the windshield.  I guess if I made my window really short so it just barely hit the w/s snaps, the effect would be minimized, but I hate that as well.  I'll go as narrow as 1.5 inches wide, but any narrower than that and you'll have water coming in all around. 

The one I did that fit really nice had the clear vinyl come straight down to the top of the w/s frame, then the bottom band flared out to follow the plane of the frame.  The bottom band was in two pieces, much like the waistband on a lady's skirt.  Whole lotta work, it was, but looked nice.

Am I missing some easier, quicker method that still produces good results?

June

After all these years of boat upholstery, I think I've finally found a decent quality sew foam.  IMHO manufacturers seem to use absolutely the lowest density foam they can manufacture to glue to the absolutely lowest quality knit scrim they can find.  Not much variety available even at large suppliers.  The pink foam with brown scrim was one of the better ones, but even it doesn't hold its loft and the scrim only stretches 2 ways, making fit difficult when the vinyl has a lot more give.  I hate it when the sew foam prevents me from pulling the vinyl tight enough to look just how I want it to.

As it happens, my foam supplier has started carrying a dark charcoal grey foam with a charcoal knit scrim that actually stretches 4 WAYS - though it does stretch more in one direction than the other.  And it appears the foam is also higher density.  It actually has "body".  Comes in 1/2 and 1/4".  The scrim is NOT slippery like most though, so for use on ez-dri foam with large pores and a scratchy surface, I think the foam will need a very thin layer of dacron to prevent abrasion from ripping the scrim to shreds.  I'll post pics tomorrow. 

June

Anyone know where to get this stuff?  A google search only links it to Chaparral.  I'm guessing it's a logo'd product for them and it's really some Morbern/Naugahyde/whatever made vinyl sold as something else through commercial channels.  I'm not having any luck matching the color and texture. 

June

On my backup machine (Singer 111W155), the thread guide pin on top of the machine - the one with two holes at 90 degrees to each other - has deep grooves from many years of monofilament use.  I'd like to replace the pin or at least turn it 180 degrees, but can't see how to get it out or turned.  Looking at replacement parts, some appear to be just push in, others threaded.  I have no idea which this might be.  I'd like to avoid using a torch to heat it up since that will definitely blister the paint, and maybe damage some parts, but a pair of pliers just ain't budging it.  What I'd like to NOT do is break it off in the hole.  I don't see a set screw anywhere around there.  Any ideas? 

June

Looks like a bargain for an auto trimmer or marine canvas shop.  I paid almost that for a single-needle short-arm 7 years ago. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Singer-Model-145-walking-foot-double-needle-Leather-/170756369517?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item27c1df6c6d

Picked up a freebie today - large computer table that I think would make a super sewing machine table.  Anyone ever built one from the old-style commercial computer desk? ... metal frame, particle board top, looks a lot like this...

  http://www.computerdesks.com/computer-desks/rectangular-desks/bushaseries60inchdeskinwhitespectrumpaperandpewter.cfm

The main difference is that the vertical metal sheet under the top (the modesty panel), is about 10 inches or more from the back edge.  It's a big table - probably from the era before flat panel monitors existed.  I think I may have to cut a channel for the motor belt and mount the motor behind the metal sheet.  This could be a GOOD thing as the heat from the motor is a nuisance in summertime.  Just wondering if there are any pitfalls someone may have encountered in this DIY project.

June

I have to rebuild seats for a '79 Trans Am.  Structure is a mess.  I'm having a welder re-do the spot welds, but the support wires underneath are in pieces - hopefully I can piece them together enough to at least get a measurement.  So, my questions. 

1) What do you use for the support wires in the seat bottom?  It's a thin wire, but obviously doesn't stretch.  It's stiff enough to require only one turn at each end to not pull out when a heavy person sits.  What is it / where do you get it?  Will coat hangers do? 

2) there's a left-right wire that the support wires wrap around.  Heavier than the support wire.  What is that?  Is it just some metal rod I might get at a hardware store?  This is the wire that is attached to the seat back with coil springs.  They are intact, though I'd like to replace them just because of their age.

3) I'm going to refresh the buns, not replace.  Anything I should know?  I was going to cut out the bad spots, replace with chunks of good foam, them cover the whole thing with 1/2" of high-density foam to smooth out my repair bumps.  Anything I should know? 

4) there was no barrier between the springs/support wires and the foam.  The wires were imbedded into the foam.  I'm thinking of using this sisal pad over the wires.  Price is right...

   http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=2792&category_id=165&category_parent_id=

Am I missing something? What do you guys use over the wires/springs?  Would burlap be a better option?  If so, do you hog-ring the burlap to the frame first?

I'm not making seat covers - owner ordered those from Classic Industries.  They look really good.  Should be a breeze to install (famous last words....  ::)  Here we go again  :-\

June

I got a super deal off eBay for a small hook for my old 111W and the seller has 2 more he's trying to unload for an amazing price.  Also has some nylon thread.  If anyone's in the market, let me know and I'll hook you up to do your own negotiations. 

June

Did a new leaning post cushion for a customer.  2" thick, curved around leading edge, standard stuff.  Soft cushion - no board backing.  Keder welt across back, velcro flap on bottom edge (this is how the original was designed).  Customer calls - says it's "too big".  In what dimension?  Too long, too wide? Oh, so should I take up the velcro flap and pull it tighter?  He doesn't know.  I explain that the new foam is a flat sheet and it wants to straighten out.   He thinks the old foam was a different thickness - I explained that the old was 2" thick and the new is 2" thick.  It hasn't conformed to the curve yet.  He just wants me to come look at it.  I ask - is the foam too soft?  too hard?  He hasn't used it yet. BTW, I replaced the foam free of charge because the old foam was all shrunken in the corners and wouldn't fill out the new skin - I probably should have kept my mouth shut and just padded out the corners with dacron. 

So, how do you please a customer who can't put a finger on exactly what they want?  And, how do you make foam bend without time and use?  The leaning post is a pretty sharp 90 degree turn and the foam doesn't hug it in the center.

June

And where might I get them?  Manart has never heard of them before.

As you see here, the slot has no widened point or open end, so these plugs just pop in, and the expansion caused by the screw just holds them in place.







Really great idea as it isolates the aluminum tubing from the steel of the snap stud and prevents electrolysis from making the powdercoat bubble up.  I just need more...  These were delivered on the boat - a 2006 Proline walkaround.

June

I'm just tired of having to man-handle heavy upholstery pieces (some boat pieces can weigh upwards of 80 pounds) for stripping, patterning and stapling on new covers.  A simple turntable would help - maybe a plywood platform with 4 swivel casters.  To go one better, something that could be elevated on hydraulic lifts (like under a lot of office chairs) would make it even more useful.  Or something that can grip the piece on a "rotisserie" would be even better.   Anyone ever made one? 

June

How hard can it be, right?  Never expected to find such elaborate woodwork under the foam and vinyl.  I'm rebuilding it in plastic. 

The boxes on the ends will accommodate cup holders.  There are only 2 cup holders in the entire boat so I"ll be adding 4 in this project.  Real fun cutting all those funky angles with nothing more than a jigsaw.  If I had it to do over, I'd just go out and buy a table saw - it would have saved me scads of time.

The black plastic is sitting on the fiberglass engine hatch.


1/4" PVC board was added at the sides to increase the width.  I could have made the original pieces wider, but never expected the fiberglass lid would be a full 2 inches narrower than the opening in the boat (which, BTW, has no channels for water that drips off the sides of the hatch.  It just drips straight over the engines.  We'll be adding a channel of some sort to catch the drips and funnel them into the bilge. 



The underside has cut-out holes so the upholstered cup holder trim board can be screwed in place from underneath.



Bolster piece before fiberglass.  This one holds the "pillows" and is upholstered separately.  It gets screwed on to the main frame from underneath after it's all done.



Last bit of construction.  This piece is fully supported underneath and doesn't need to be fiberglassed so I used PVC board.  The black stuff will adhere to fiberglass.



Starting the foam work.  Check out that bevel!!  I LOVE the Bosch foam saw.  I could never have done that with my turkey carver.



More to come...

June

Probably the funniest youtube video I've ever seen.  It's very short.  Old, but I still have to laugh every time I see it...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiE4ymRYU_w

June

I've been promising these.  The Formula 280SS upholstery complete.







And my next project - complete upholstery of a Baja 38 Special.  I'm replacing all this plywood and standard foam with plastic sheet (Aqua-Plas 5 and Starboard) and dri-fast.  First project with Aqua-Plas and I'm loving it.  After setting the first 6 t-nuts I've decided they weren't stretching the truth when they said 1000 pounds per sq. inch holding power on a screw.  The points of the nuts were NOT driving into the plastic it's so dense.  Wood screws will hold just fine.  T-nuts on this piece are difficult since there are multiple layers of board plus the fiberglass engine hatch that all have to line up.  Wood screws will make life a lot easier. 






June