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Was making buttons today and noticed my cutter used to cut the circular cap covers was (appeared) dull.
It is dull or maybe I didn't have the cutter layered properly. 

What I am describing in when cutting the caps on the button press the layers on the press were:

   1. circular piece of hard wood about 1/2 inch thick
   2. next was a layer of dense press board
   3. then the top layer is the button material
   4. Of course on top of all this is the circular cutter that the press works against.

When doing all that is when I noticed the dull symptom (dull or my layers prepared for cutting were
not best.

If it matters, I was cutting (trying at least - operation assisted by hand scissors) button cap circular
pieces of material for size 36 buttons.

Got it done but wondering about the sharpness of the cutter - felt of the edge and noticed there
was some sharpness there.

What do the pros think, try to sharpen the cutter?  Stack the layers differently (meaning type of
materials) differently?

Back to doing cutting sharpness:  How would one do that?  Or go buy new cutter?

I do know stacking the right materials on the circular wood piece used in the press is or can be
important.

Doyle 
 

The description of cushion this relates to is covered with the heavy nylon mesh and filled with
a poly mesh that could have been 2 to 3 inches thick (sort of similar to thick Dacron. 

The nylon mesh is made of two layers (identical size) sewn around the perimeter but leaving the rear
edge open to allow stuffing the filler in (the poly mesh or could be envisioned as very heavy Dacron 2-3 inches thick). 

Once the Dacron is inserted, next all that mass is stuck under a needle to sew a "tufted" design into
the completed cover, ready to be thrown on the metal patio chair frame for use.

Sounds simple?  Well, maybe but my concerns are related to sewing the "tufted" design, more specifically -- will the typical walking foot machine sew through the two layers of mesh and the filler at
such a thickness a seat cushion would need?

A customer has old cushions made like this and would like them duplicated.

Thinking through the analyticals of all involved, there could be some challenges in getting all this
through the needle without wrinkles and planned symmetry.  As I envision the operation, much depends on the thickness of filler.

Procedures like compressing the filler as it flows through the needle are logical but only up to a
point.

I though about taking the customer's old cushion and testing how it would flow through the needle.

Along with this sewing issue, what is the trade name for such filler and available  thickness?

Other experiences would be very relevant!

Thanks in advance.

Doyle   

Customer has a large cedar chest that belonged to her mother and wants to keep it.
But it needs a touch up, outside around the top of the lid.  Interior is like new.

Question is:  What can be done to the exterior to correct for a few light scratches on or around the lid?
I guess, due to overtime, it doesn't spark anymore - could just be body oils or?

Don't want to modify the color (red like cedar is).

What could be rubbed across the surface to just make it look more consistent?

Any ideas?

Doyle

I can't get anything done for fixing the new foreign made furniture(legs or shipping damage)l
Today, yes on Saturday, I went mobile and fixed three new sofa pieces of furniture - just delivered.
The jobs were usually a leg installation could not be accomplished.

The type of work that requires removing local upholstery to get inside where the leg retainer is -or was,
because it isn't there anymore.  Man! trying to install replacements in those areas is tough - hardly any
room a the finished upholstery stage.

Not sure what is causing it but seeing a significant amount of this!  Usually, it is quicker to take the tool
box on sight and fix it than picking up the piece.

This, pet damage, and human damage is changing the reupholstery business!

To take off and do it on site isn't cheap either! - the leg issues is the main point. 

This business is really changing!

Why all these leg problems???

I suppose others are experiencing this?

Doyle

Just a quick Question:

Regarding furniture supplies  ---  Are your prices going up?

I sense that mine have gone up a buck or two per yard.

Is this a trend?  This is in regards mostly to medium and higher cloth. 

Doyle

Pet Damage Business

Are our business owners doing much of this?  There has been an increase in that type of
business lately and question if it is the same for other shops?

Mine is related to mostly newer furniture.  These repairs aren't cheap!

Another Question:

This business often entails matching bonded leather - any problem in matching the (China stuff?).

Some come with apprehension regarding the fix cost.

Doyle

Furniture legs - where have we been, where are we now?

Older furniture design was centered around the leg design to a high degree. 

Is it today?

What were legs made of back then?  This has evolved and what are they made of today.

Styles have changed as well ---- several were used in the past........now?  You don't hear
a discussion regarding styles anymore.  Why is all this?

Is it all centered around cost? 

Legs can offer an analytical aspect also in terms of strength and durability.  Depending - older
furniture they did just that but not so much on the newer (imported) stuff.

About the only time the subject of legs come up is when they break/can't keep them on/or how
are they attached when the hardware seems to be screwed up (pun not intended)?

If you were around back when and are aware of where we have evolved to; it is clear that
leg (design/construction/quality/content) content has really changed.

As mentioned above, is this fact all about cost?

Doyle

Reupholstering - early in this game consumers have to engage in fabric selection, make a selection
based on simple or complex parameters. 

Question:  Since fabric milling has evolved as rapidly as it has, what are the more important
parameters?  Of course price is, color is, but do customers have a lot of knowledge about content?

What are the contents used today in making fabrics?  Haven't they changed?
I don't read/hear much about natural fibers (cotton/rayon/wool, to name a few).

So, what are the contents of available fabrics?

In review, several of the fabric books noted have a name but either it doesn't describe content or
the name just leaves the thought that this is just some kind of synthetic.

What are the fabrics to avoid fraying problem?

I have had customers bring me material (they didn't know what it was, nor did I) but the stuff
would start fraying after cutting.  Sure made sewing difficult and not want any more of that stuff.

Feel is about the most parameter I know to use and it helps in selection but more is needed
sometimes.

The original question is:  How do you guide a customer in fabric selection?

Any tips on fabric selection issues?

Doyle

Rich,
How is your chair business going?  Real good I bet!
I did a dental office of about 10 chairs recently.  The chairs were made in China and not near the
old fashion chairs like when you started.

Are there many doing it the way you do?  Like, you install on site (the upholstery that is)still?

I picked up the components and did the work in shop and then installed on site.

I couldn't believe how cheaply the chair construction was.  I didn't think the forms/padding would
last long.  But, of course I have been use to equipment made probably over 30 years ago.

What is the geographical area you serve?  Mostly in your area and nearby coastal?

I suppose the basic walking foot with a flat fell seaming foot serves most of your needs.  Doubt
a serger capability is needed?


Take care,

Always enjoy your post,

Doyle

Question regarding "Processed Leather": 

Is the more expensive durable?  Most I have contact with is a problem within a couple years - maybe
at best.  But looking at sample books, some isn't really priced low.

Doyle

While completing an upholstery project, a somewhat different button requirement was encountered.

This small piece of furniture was a a bench used at the bed foot board.  A relatively formal piece of furniture; cabriole legs (4) mounted on a plywood frame with scroll type arms (1 at each end of each arm -
which required a center button at each scroll (total of 4 buttons).  This piece of furniture permitted the piece to be placed, with either side or end, where ever - middle of a room or against a wall or as stated, at a bed foot board.  Nice looking - formal (wood legs finished in some formal shade of maple/light clear coat). The framing, based on construction (plywood), doesn't suggest higher end furniture.

Back to the buttons (4 of them) - the factory installed a size 60 cap to a bottom nail that was literally
welded to the bottom side of the button hardware.

I saw this and thought this might requre some exploration;  an eyelet bottom half button, no - can't install it. 

The  next thought was make a size 60 the old fashion way with a large headed webbing tack inserted
into the bottom half of the button.  Did that with a #14 carpet tack,  no - didn't work because the plywood was too much for the button made.

Hmmm, thinking I would never need a button made the factory button way - ordering a box of these
was not a preferred option.  Then, next I analyzed the factory take - off button and noted they literally
welded a nail (about the same diameter or larger as a #8 wood screw) - very strong!  The screw head
welded to the lower button component permitted hammering the button onto the plywood.

Well!! Pressed to get things finished/going, the lower half of the factory button was salvaged and
I was lucky to make a size 60 covered button - just as STRONG as factory.  I did just that and
got the job down the road.

Obviously, I was relieved because where would I have picked up just the hardware to make just
4 covered buttons?  No supplier acted to know what I had removed.

With all that behind -- hence the title about the different types of buttons that are available even
though my requirement isn't or would be a different purchase requirement (volume, etc.).

There are eyelet buttons (very common in sizes).

There are the expansion lower bottoms that we can just expand the two pieces of metal of the lower
half of the bottom component.

Then, there are the lower half components with the wire type nail that a tension washer slips on and
is adjusted down to the desired tuft affect.  On and on, there are plastic pieces that the twine can
be run through and tied. 

This was one of the week's experience.

Buttons are part of the business is my bottom line - like them or not!

Doyle     

Dining room bottom cushions made several years ago were design with a large center hole and
webbed with stretch webbing.  The logic of course was to improve seating comfort - minimize the
board feel for the user.

These jobs have been coming in for a good while now and customer wants them fixed and
complain about them sitting as in a hole.  Which literally what results over time.

Based on customer "cost acceptance", sometimes every thing is replaced  with similar engineering
but other situations the seat is made much firmer.

It would be interesting to which materials others use to try to make the job more durable and
cost more acceptable?

Any ideas to share?


Doyle 

I ask because things change - pillow fillers that is;  On new furniture it has been noticed that
factory pillows are very firm, filled out and look nice.  That observation with the current requirement to
make about half dozen got me to wondering about the filler material being used today?

Over the years sometimes the forms were purchased, sometimes the filler was made using foam wrapped in dacron.

On these to do, I prefer to make the filler, therefore the filler to use is the question?

I suspect there is a better filler that will deliver the factory effect, stated above.

My thinking is there are many of you who make many cushions today.

Doyle
   

As it might relate to home furnishings (furniture):

Designer?

Decorator?

As has been said, the title "master" craftsman has become a more casual title today.  Hasn't designer
become much more casual, also?

Or is there a study today that has to be accomplished to be either a designer or decorator? 

Do designers decorate?

Also, do decorators design?

Probably the thinking about all this, like master, etc., at some point in past cultures did go training and was required to perform to some standard before a highly regarded label was attached.

In some countries the workers label was granted from a more standardized work performance.
You had to put in your time and have demonstrated a certain level of work.

Like designers had to decorate for a period of time before considered a designers?

Confusing but times change.

Doyle

This rocker had to be made, perhaps 70 + years ago.  Not real big, not real small,
for springs it has two bars with three springs each bar.

Not all the original considerations are there, hence my questions.

Back then, the coils, like I said 3 on each bar, therefore 6 total springs.  Tying
the coils what was done back then - three side to side jute ties and the same
from front to back?  No webbing.

Question #1;  So did these chairs not get the diagonal jute diagonal ties?

I know 8-way can be done on this, wondering what was original back then?

Anyway depending on your response, I will do the coil ties at a minimum 6 ties (3 front to back) and (3 side to side).

Then apply the burlap.  Probably some stitching to coils.

Question 2:  The frame, side to side at very front - did they usually do a small
roll edge there?  I don't find any evidence like old tack markings?  I could see
filling over the first top layer of burlap with rubber hair/then cotton, and then doing the muslin before applying the final fabric.

I didn't say, but the bottom is the only thing upholstered.  The backrest is vertical
wood slats in a comfortable curve fashion and there is no wood lathe work done
to this frame.

For now, I will wait for your input, I trust your knowledge to get this old chair pretty much back like original. 



Doyle