Messages

Ok, Looks like I'm going to be the jerk here. Tim asked for help because he is obviously not satisfied with the job he did. I admire him for wanting to produce a better product. Telling him not to sweat it isn't answering his questions or helping him. Quite frankly, that job wouldn't leave our shop. Sorry Tim, but don't feel bad, I've
been exactly where you are.

First problem is that it's a pontoon boat with railing breaks (as mentioned) and rounded cushions that stick up
above the railing. Too many up, downs, ins, outs and angles. Cockpit covers on pontoon boats should be double
a similar sized cover for a sportboat. I've done an over windshield cockpit cover on a 48' Sunseeker and would
gladly do another one over a 24' pontoon boat.

Get out of the habit of having seams run side to side. Seams should run front to back. We used to go side to
side and covers would stretch out and peak at the supports like a big top tent. Glen Raven said it was due to
warp vs. weft. That's also why the cover is pulling in between the snaps. We double stitch our center seam for
cockpit covers. 1st stitch about 3/4" from edge then fold a stitch line and stitch again. The support poles are
going on the center line and the strong seam there will help out.

When I do a pontoon boat cover I fit to the top of the rail then fit a separate skirt piece around the perimeter.

Hard to tell but the picture looks as if you folded the edge under. Never works out for me. I always reinforce
with webbing and bind the edge.

Setting machine tension is a must but one trick many don't do is to hold the material in front and behind the
needle as you're sewing. This keeps the top and bottom layers even with each other. If you sew a seam then
pull it out it should be smooth. If one panel is smooth and the other has some pucker then the panels didn't
sew evenly.

Mike - We had more dealers in the heyday, but when things went south the looked for the cheap way out.
Occassionally they will call us to fix something another shop messed up.

The one dealer I work with now will have a check waiting for me when I go to install if I ask them to. Many
times I've gone to install something and while I'm in the process the servicewriter will ask if I brought an
invoice. More than once he has brought a check back before I'm finished. If the check signer isn't there at the time I won't wait more than a few days for a check in the mail. We take care of each other.

I've had customers come to me after going with a lower priced shop. turns out they found
out the hard way why the other shop was cheaper.

For years the word in our area is we are the most expensive but the work is right and we stand
behind it. I have a boat dealer client that won't use anyone but me. They don't sell super high
end boats but they give their customers high end service. They realize quality costs.

How old is the top and what is the overall condition of the rest of it? If the vinyl
is dry, repairing can be a waste of time since the top has to come off anyway.
Replacement Jeep tops are relatively inexpensive. But that does depend on your
customer's point of view not mine.

I've directed Jeep owner's here for replacement tops.

http://www.quadratec.com/showcases/quadratec_exclusive/quadratop/

If the customer is set on a repair, I would say the cleanest way would be to insert
a couple of layers of fabric with a strip of webbing for strength between the inner and
outer layers , double-stitch it in about 3"either side of the rip or as far as you can and
at least 1" above the tip of the rip. Then turn the edges of the rip under and do a finish
stitch. If you sew a patch on the outside it will look like a repair. For removing the top
and making the repairs I would charge 1.5 hours and no guarantee. Also take into
consideration how any rubber welt is attached and if you can put it back on. If you sew
through the rubber welt it will just rip along the stitch line in short order.

Try to use the OEM stitch lines and inner/outer layers to your advantage.

Pat, Just staple Velcro to the seat bottoms and the bench base for the cushions. It will make it
easier for the restaurant to remove them for cleaning (like they ever would). For the backrests
you can use Z-Clips.

http://www.amazon.com/1-1-Z-Clips-Includes-Clips-sets/dp/B001DSY63U

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76u5OAiuhNA

The absolute best I have seen is 3M Sharpshooter. I've seen it clean deep grained vinyl in a
mid 70's boat that had been stored for a while. However, you must go over it with a protectant
after cleaning. I recommend 303 Protectant. Spray on 3M Sharpshooter, let it set for 30 seconds
agitate with a soft brush and wipe off. No-rinse formula.

Fantastic and 409 can cause problems if it is not rinsed properly after cleaning. I recovered some
cushions for a customer after a detailer cleaned his white cushions with Fantistic. After cleaning a
rope, plastic bag and screen enclosure panel were laid on the cushions. A day in the sun and there
was purple staining on those cushions. The purple stain was in the pattern of the rope braid, the
screen mesh and the folds of the bag.

Always use the least potent cleaner first. I won't recommend any bleach. It might get the stain off the
vinyl but people forget it can deteriorate the thread which can't get thoroughly rinsed. Don't know how
many times customers have brought covers and cushions in to be restitched after cleaning with bleach.
If you want to use something that has a bleaching effect, use Mighty Brite.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C309314%7C311478&id=1109264

http://www.shop3m.com/70071285335.html?WT.mc_ev=clickthrough&WT.mc_id=shop3m-AtoZ-Sharpshooter-Cleaner

Another question is, do they have to be taken off when the restaraunt is closed and back on before it opens
the next day?

Mike - Did you ask him how much he thought it would cost to have the custom cover made?

There is a company called Fisher Canvas (not sure) that makes full winter storage covers. I think
they came to our marina once and did a cover from measurements for a 36' for $1,800.00. They
use treated duck, maybe Durafin.

DBR,

if someone pulled that stunt on me, I would put them out of business.
ZGP

What stunt? Agree to do the first one for $200 with the understanding that if it actually
takes more time than anticipated he will let the customer know before proceeeding. The
customer will be in control of going forward and HV will protect himself from a loss. If HV
has never done one of these before he has to protect himself from losses and will be
upfront and honest with the customer.

I don't know how you read my post but no bad intent was presented on my part. Next time
I will spell it out for you.

DBR,

if someone pulled that stunt on me, I would put them out of business.
ZGP

What stunt? Agree to do the first one for $200 with the understanding that if it actually
takes more time than anticipated he will let the customer know before proceeeding. The
customer will be in control of going forward and HV will protect himself from a loss. If HV
has never done one of these before he has to protect himself from losses and will be
upfront and honest with the customer.

I don't know how you read my post but no bad intent was presented on my part.

How much is a new table? Have you done one before? Sounds like a recipe to lose $$ to me.
Do the first on time and materials then give a discount for doing all of them. Or do the first
for $200, track your time and let the customer know the price for the remaining will be
adjusted accordingly. If they think the price adjustment isn't worth it then you've only lost
on one chair.

I just love it when people think they know more about our business than we do.

I've actually told a couple of people, "If you know so much, why are you even talking to me?
Let me know when you get it done and I'll come by and take a look."

First giveaway is he quoted Recacril/Sunbrella by the square yard. Anyone here ever buy fabric
by the square yard before?

Funny thing is, after the first time he put it on, he would never want to do it again.

Fasnap carries the MIL black but not in the two prong. You could make the two hole
base work with rivets and washers.

http://www.fasnap.com/index.php/cPath/45_9227_9132_9145

McMaster-Carr has black rivets

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=ktlkmt

I have 1/4" luan on my tables and cut without the foot. The luan also allows me to pin material
down with the mushroom pins. I usually cut from one side of the table. When that side gets marked up
from cutting then just rotate the table. When both sides are done I will flip the luan over and repeat.

Something in the music industry. I had a nice large system in college and my room mate and I would
DJ parties for campus organizations' fundraisers. My son plays guitar and rekindled my desire. I have
modified several guitars for him, assembled a Stratocaster from select parts, recovered speaker cabinets
and currently researching recording equipment since that's the path he wants to take.

I was recently given information to apply for a position as a tech for an established band for a tour. Reality
is they needed someone who was more of a jack of all trades than me. Throw me a guitar and I can fix a
setup issue and replace electronics. Properly setting up a concert style sound system is a little beyond my
knowledge though.

I was tempted to give it a shot but they need someone before I could get a passport.