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telemarketer are easy to deal with......
As soon as they start speaking, the disconnect feature goes into action and the call added to junk callers.
They do get smart in calling with new area codes and numbers but after 10 tries they do give up. So it's not really a big big time waster.
It goes in waves there are weeks when I have no junk calls and then there are some days where they are all out in full force.
But as I already said a fast disconnect takes care of these calls.

I don't think anything will beat a good old hardwood frame

e]
I'm quite old fashioned and had the same opinion but had to change my opinion recently.

Had to re-upholster some furniture from Ligne Roset.
A high end french furniture manufacturer.
Everything done with very good quality plywood. Rock Solid build - like a Tank.
Yes their furniture is contemporary, so their design calls for plywood.
But nothing like their Chinese counterparts. Screws were all stainless steel - a pleasure to work with.
A little bit heavy to lift but liked very much their Idea's of upholstery.
Original workmanship perfect no shortcuts.
All the Leather pieces top-stitched with no welting a lot prefabricated pieces like slipcovers.
Would like to have more of these pieces to work on.

It's funny just working on one of this .....er's too
There is not much support out there in getting valuable info. The one's who know keep quit and are happy about the struggling of others.
First I have to say when you look at the original leather it is not that heavy/thick.
It looks to me more like a Top Grain Leather.
I stripped the inside of the chair completely of everything so only the glassfiber shell is left.
glued and stretched a 1/4inch foam to the inside. This was there before too, just completly desintigrated.
I warmed the Leather and could stretch it to a certain degree and glued it to the foam too.
Original was done the same way.
On the outside you must wet the leather and stretch it accordingly. It is not easy. Now the original upholster of the Arne Jacobsen Egg Chair were sewing the outside leather to the welting and inside leater in a wet condition. The issue is that most leathers do shrink a lot when getting try. If you have a good leather you should not loose any color or should have any change in looks.
Now sewing is again fun, don't even try to use a curved standart upholstery needle for leather, you would not get very far.
I use curved sergical needles from a whole seller which supplies sergical supplies to Animal hospitals. To get this needles alone was quite some work.
I have to look for the video where it shows how they work on the chairs. It looks quite easy, but the devil is in the details where everybody does'nt talk about. 
I will post a picture when the upload to the forum works, somehow it doesnt like my pictures

If the ship from Turkey where they are located I wonder if it would cost more than the gun to get it here LOL

as google is my best friend, here a couple of items I found

http://www.asiahan.com/
they are selling the gun too same outfit than decotacs just a under a different name, and make very interesting products like decorative Nails too.
I like their chinese named website better.

One can find them also in the Interior Design Product Finder
http://interiordesignproductfinder.com/Listing/Index/Furniture_-_Residential/Upholstery_Nails/681/672

it's propably the same gun, like one can buy from the other outfits, just cheaper.
I would get the gun from them too if you guy's find that it works, please let us know. 
My compressor from Rolair would be capable to handle the nail stapler easily

Do you work for or are part of the company

this is part of my upholstery business 

prep time for the wrapping before securing by sewing

yes, there is quite some preparation of squaring the carpet to the correct size, then if the carpet has a high pile one should bevel the carpet with a beveler so the binding wraps nicely around the carpet.
There are also special machines like sergers or machines which are only suited to apply fringe to the carpet. But note that each of this special machines is quite expensive and so one has to analyze if there is a return of investment in buying such a specialized machine.
In my case, I decided on a union special which does everything I need and with a little bit
tinkering it does everything.

back then, if I understood correctly, edges were serged, bound (or binded), or overlocked

Note: it really did not change much, only the machines are upgraded to work faster, more precise and are easier to operate due to electronic controlled motors.
The technique is mostly the same

could you explain why the chain stitch is used

The machine I use is a Union Special heavy duty machine with two additional pullers to pull the carpet through the machine.
The stitch is a slight zig zag stitch on top and a straight stitch line on the bottom, this setup holds the binding the best way possible to the carpet. We even use serging tape which replicates the serging on the carpet.
NC Carpet in NJ produces this machines. Not cheap but one of best in the industry
Additional we use several attachments from 3/4inch to 5inch size to accommodate all kind of binding tapes.
We don't use an airtable due to size restriction in our workroom. All is needed are two 12foot section of roller conveyors on which the carpets rolls.
The machine just pulls the carpet through, all the operator has to do, see that the carpet edge is close to the binding shoe.
With this set-up I could run up to 60ft per minute through without bobbin, so speed is what counts as well as a perfect stitch every time.
This is a very heavy duty well build machine on which one can sew almost any carpet for binding. We use it even to sew all kinds of sisal carpets.

If you want to see the practical advantages of a sewing machine which produces a chain stitch I would recommend you go to a reputable commercial sewing machine shop where they have a machine like the one your question set up for sewing.
Use one of your vinyl materials and check if you feel comfortable in use such a machine.

I have in my shop two machines which use a chain stitch. Both are used for sewing binding on carpets. One is portable, the other one is a union special table top machine.
Yes it's great, one does not have to worry about a bobbin refills and both threads run of a big spool. Normally I use a 69 nylon threat but also a strong comparable monafilement or even a nice cotton one.
Machine sews very fast, no comparison to my walking foot machine, but don't forget I rarely use it to sew anything round mostly just straight.
In my case the union special has a slight zig-zag stitch but it can be converted to straight stitch too.
Opening the chain stitch seam is quite easy too, just to pull the right thread and there everything goes. I never had the issue that
the sewing would open up on its own due to abuse.
Personally I don't see any real advantage to use such a machine for upholstery, except maybe industrial mass production.
Even the large upholstery shops in the automotive industry use most of the time a walking foot machine.

going back one more time to your fabric. It looks like a chintz fabric. This may be also the reason of doing an outline quilting. It is easier to upholster that way too, has more body. It does look nice, but in today's world not too many jobs are done that way any more.
Fabric reminds me on one of the more expensive but good fabric houses.
I have no idea what fabric book you have but don't stay away from a job like that, but do qualify the customer so it's not a loss and wasted time for you. 

In many cases the fabric comes that way already.
it was popular some time ago. If it is not too intricate it can be somehow reproduced by an experienced quilter.
You have two problems on your hand
- finding a fabric that somehow works in design/colors with the original material
- creating a Trapunto design on the new fabric 

Your picture of the sofa does not show too much detail, but if I'm not mistaken this is just a more intricate outline quilting/stitching and then upholstered.
Just some advise, before going on a wild goose-chase, find out what the customer has in mind concerning budget. That will answer everything, if it is worthwhile to go through all the challenges with that project in finding what your customer wants.
 
A challenge like this project is fun to solve, but don't forget you are running a business not a hobby.

Can you all give me some you thoughts and experience using Velcro hook n loop types

I work all the time with velcro, if you work with velcro you have to keek one item in mind, even wider the velcro strip is - even better the it sticks together. I use velcro for drapery valances to stick it to boards. Easy installation and the customer can take the valance easy off for cleaning. If you cannot staple the velcro you can also glue it - like in boats on fiber glass.
At present I have an upholstery job of a sofa were the bottom is all fastened with velcro, it works perfectly easy to take off and change to new material.
concerning staples breaking, I don't blame that much the staples - its more the wood - if it is a hardwoodframe mostly from an asian country you will run into problems that the staples break when you try to remove them. (very hard wood) not an oak or beech frame.

there is a standard in interior design with seating. seat height, depth and some other factors - Interior Design Standards
Easiest way: search google for commercial restaurant booths, there is a myriad of designs out there with detail drawing.
That should keep you going for a while. Just for your info, that field is very competitive and it will be hard to compete efficiently against some of the big manufacturers. I had more success in re-upholstering this booths than producing them.

contact info (hopefully Canadian of at least northern US) for Kihlberg

Google is your best friend
http://www.kihlberg.eu/jkgroup.nsf/view2ShowDistributorsByAreaData?OpenNavigator&Cat=French_Distributeurs_Canada
or
http://www.kihlberg.us/jkgroup.nsf/view2ShowDistributorsByAreaData?OpenNavigator&Cat=EnglishUSA_Distributors_MN
or
http://www.kihlberg.us/jkgroup.nsf/view2ShowDistributorsByAreaData?OpenNavigator&Cat=EnglishUSA_Distributors_ND
if any one of them does not work out just call another distributor,
as with everything else it just depends to whom you speak on the phone, some go out of their way
to be helpfuls other ones just hang up on you.

I have the Haubold with the long nose and wouldn't trade it for any other brand.
SA

Agree with you, some may question the price, but the handling and quality is really great. I just changed the seals on one of my
Haubolds (20yrs old) and it works again perfect.
They are a little bit difficult to come by as their distribution is not as large and Haubold is now owned by kihlberg, another stapler manufacturer.

I'm not that familiar with the staplers from BeA, but here a link which lists the stapler in question.
http://www.bea-group.com/bea/pdf/_uk/uk_Catalogue_2011.pdf
if you do a search on Google use "Stapler 71/16-421"
There are a couple of outfits which list the stapler in question. Prices are good too, my Haubold Staplers are more $$$. I do like the nose of your stapler in question, but if I have the need for something like you want, I use my long-nose stapler and problem solved.

Those days are gone now. They aren't so free and easy with sample books anymore. Places like Greenhouse Fabrics will probably require a $200 deposit for books that will be refunded after your first $1000 worth of orders. Other fabric suppliers have similar policies.

personally i just refuse to pay for sample books, there are plenty of fabric houses out there were the sample books are free.
Greenhouse tried the same story on me, I just refused and some of their fabrics have a higher wholesale price than the competition. Which means more money in my pocket.
Best thing is to hook up with some of the independent fabric reps, where sample books are free and prices are good.
Years ago I had lot's of sample books, did I sell more - no. Today I have just a handful of suppliers and they tread me nice and because I sell more fabric, I'm also a bigger fish.