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Hmmm.  http://www.whio.com/news/national/furniture-store-receives-ottoman-with-pounds-pot-inside/SIr1YZZxoK160pMAmgMWgK/


I had a customer who closed his store and ordered a bunch of new stuff for his going out of business sale.   I did a lot of work at his warehouse.  A couple years later, he re-opened and I never did work at the warehouse any more.   About a year later, he was busted for a pot growing operation at the new warehouse. 

Be careful out there

[Hi, a homeowner in Cincinnati is looking for an estimate for a handyman. You have first priority. Reply 1 if interested, 3 if not.]

I've probably gotten 8 text messages like this in the last 24 hours, up to11 pm.  All about the same but from a different (probably spoofed) phone number.

Hi, a homeowner in Cincinnati is looking for an estimate for a handyman.  You have first priority.  Reply 1 if interested, 3 if not.


Sometimes it's slightly different -- needs help installing a deck, above-ground pool, etc.   Why are they calling me?   I don't have a "handyman service!"

Anyone else bothered by these low-life?

A friend of mine in town who used to be the editor of a woodworking magazine left there a few years ago, went into business for himself doing custom woodworking, publishing, writing, and teaching.    Today, he posted some advice in his blog.   I think it's appropriate for people here considering, as one other person, "telling the man to KMA" and leaving, starting your own business.  I know some of us here have done that.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   
Take My Advice, I'm Not Using It
by Lost Art Press

Three Tables
During my final year of teaching, I had three distressing encounters with teenagers in my classes and lectures. At the end of the event, the teens came up and said: "I want to be you when I grow up." And then they asked a terrifying question: "How do I get to where you are?"

I hate to give advice. But I also hate to be a jerk. And so I gave some after-school-special answer about working hard and never listening to adults.

The honest answer is: Become a hedge fund manager for five years, make more money than I will in a lifetime and "retire" to building furniture for clients and writing about woodworking.

As we don't need more hedge fund managers, here is a list of things I have done right in my career (the list of things I've done wrong would fill a book and require multiple therapy sessions).

    Keep your day job. Don't quit your real job until you have paid off all your debts (I paid off my mortgage when I was 39) and have purchased all the equipment you need to get started. Build your business while you are working for the man. Yes, this requires multi-vitamins or amphetamines. I chose vitamins.

    Reject all overhead. Don't hire employees, buy/rent/lease a building or add any overhead until these things seem like pocket change. Even though I can afford an employee (or five), it's better to keep a business small and flexible. Plus, you didn't really quit your job to become a middle manager at your own business, did you?

    Embrace the Internet. If you aren't happy to share your struggle on Instagram, Twitter, SnapChat, blogs, forums and usenet (they're FREE), I think you are fighting without using your fists. These tools allow you to compete with huge businesses. All it takes is being clever and determined.

    Make friends. You cannot do this alone. Take other makers out to lunch and figure out how their businesses work. Because I have a network of woodworkers here in Northern Kentucky, I could live off referrals if I needed to (not that I really want to make 600 shutters for the county courthouse). Friends will keep you fed. And you should return that favor for other makers.

    Don't do one thing. Make sure you have multiple income sources. I make money from writing, building furniture and publishing other people's books. All of those hands wash each other. When one goes to pot, the other one can make up the difference.

    Live someplace cheap. This is huge. The Cincinnati area is dirt cheap but densely populated. That's perfect for what I do. I have the infrastructure I need (gigabit Internet, lumberyards, transportation, other makers) and access to the rest of the world, thanks to the Internet.

    Do it all yourself. Learn photography, website design, copywriting, CAD, QuickBooks and whatever else it takes to make your business work. Yes, you might hire others to do some of this stuff (someday), but you should be good enough at all these things that you can tell when you are getting cheated or are working with a slug.

    Keep your day job. If all the above points sound exhausting, then maybe your day job isn't so bad.

One more point: I'd do exactly what I am doing even if there were no money in it. I'd do it if no one read it. I'd do it if no one bought it. Seriously, I can't not do it. I am obsessed and crazy (ask Lucy). And that, more than anything, is why we didn't eat ramen tonight.

-- Chris Schwarz

We recently got a Consew CN3115-RB1 (supposed to be clone of some model of Singer).   Had it to the shop for a tuning and lube and wife has just started to use it.    She's doing some detail work and would like it to go a lot slower.   Is there a technique or a way to do that (without having to buy a new servo motor or fool with the pulleys and belts?)  I'm thinking just "riding the clutch" is not a good way either.

What is happening to the quality of today's furniture.

A couple of calls today.  From one extreme to another

1.  La-z-boy duo recliner loveseat.  About 18 months old.  Broken metal in mechanism making the footrest inoperative.  What was not plastic in the mech was metal about 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of my La-z-boy that's 38 years old.  None of the footrests in this recliner nor the matching reclining sofa fully seat without giving them a kick.  Fabric around the switches for recline pulled out around the plate and it looked like the buttons were hidden behind a fabric rip.   (This was in a junky mobile home park, so I'm guessing they are still paying for this on 48 months same as cash"

2. Mid range ($400K+-) house, brand new, new bunch of furniture.  This house was probably less than 6 months old as it was one of the few on the street that was so new it's not on any online maps.
Bottom of drawer on a bench separated from back of drawer.   Bottom was 1/8" plywood set into a 1/16" groove in the back.  Plywood in back sheared off about 1/32"   Three upholstery staples (that appeared to miss) and a thin line of caulk was all that held it in.   Matching dresser had two drawers where the same 1/8" plywood was in a 28" wide drawer.   Across the bottom was a 1/8" gap where two face plies were just laid up.   Pressing down lightly on the inside would cause the weak area to sag and gap.    Bed headboard (same room)  had a 1.5" dent right in the veneer -- probably over a void.  And a leather ottoman had an open seam on both sides of the button in the center.  

And yesterday -- RH pieces in a $1.25 million house.  Outside backs had a piece of fiberboard that was brad nailed onto the frame.   Brads all pulled through.   The board was loose and bulging and if you pressed on it it would go in about 1/2" and clunk.


... and they say reupholstering on a piece of furniture with good bones and will outlast this junk by generations is too expensive.

Anyone ever used Electronic Services, Inc.   http://www.electronicservicesinc.net/ (North Carolina) for sewing machine repairs?   My wife has a domestic Elna that the motherboard (electronics) have failed on and wonder if she should have it fixed.

Found a Consew CN-3115-R  machine free from someone who needed the room for a junker car(!).   Anyone have any experience with this model?

√-1 / 2³

... not that that's unusual or ever stopped anyone.

I made some candy cane ornaments from wood for the grand-children.   

My journey is documented here : http://thepatriotwoodworker.com/topic/18348-candy-cane-ornaments/

One day, shortly after joining the PGA tour in 1965, Lee Trevino, a professional golfer and married man, was at his home in Dallas, Texas mowing his front lawn, as he always did.

A lady driving by in a big, shiny Cadillac stopped in front of his house, lowered the window and asked, "Excuse me, do you speak English?"

Lee responded, "Yes Ma'am, I do."

The lady then asked, "What do you charge to do yard work?"

Lee said, "Well, the woman in this house lets me sleep with her."

The lady hurriedly put the car into gear and sped off.

I've replaced a number of these, but never discovered the best method or tool to remove the little rectangular clip at the kickout end.   Anyone have the easy way to do this?https://gallery.mailchimp.com/85f44c62cf7023fd358e2dc03/images/10e1fb53-4174-49a7-b917-2bae487065bc.jpg

Dear John,

I have been unable to sleep since I broke off our engagement.
Won't you forgive and forget? Your absence is breaking my heart.
I was a fool, nobody can take your place. I love you.

All my love,

Belinda. xxxxoooxxxx


P.S. Congratulations on winning last week's Powerball lottery.

I got a panic call from a member here today, but Gene's name will remain unnamed.  He had used an iron to work some hot glue on welt strips and the nearby wood trim had developed a white blush.

There are many solutions to resolving this, but here are my two sure-fire cures.  The blush is caused by water being entrained in the finish (generally lacquer or for antiques, shellac)

1.  White Ring Remover cloths.   These contain a fatty acid and fine abrasive. Just a minute or two of rubbing with one of these and the marks disappear.  The abrasive can bring the finish to somewhat of a gloss sheen.  And the fatty acid can leave a bit of a smudge.   I remove the oil with either an emulsion furniture polish like OZ or Guardsman, or a wipe with a naphtha-dampened rag.  The sheen can be adjusted, if needed, with a shot of touch up lacquer of the appropriate sheen or a rub with steel wool.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-Furniture-White-Ring-Remover-Cloth-2236/202698033?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D24-Paint%7c&gclid=CIarn92Jus0CFdgSgQod3wMGCA&gclsrc=aw.ds   also sold under the Jasco brand, the only difference being yellow vs. red on the package.   

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/guardsman-water-mark-remover-cloth/1042996798?skuId=42996798&mcid=PS_googlepla_nonbrand_homedecor_&adpos=1o2&creative=43742653069&device=c&matchtype=&network=g  is a smaller and lighter version.

Put them in a zip-lock bag and they will keep fresh for quite a while.

2. A wipe with a rag dampened with Denatured Alcohol.  I've had pieces that were pure white after sitting in a leaky moving van, under a damp moving blanket, in the summer heat for a week.  A sweeping wipe or two will usually remove the blush in a few seconds.






3. If you can mask off the area, there are aerosol "blush eliminators" or "Reflow" that are lacquer thinner in a can.  Dissolves the lacquer, and a slower-drying solvent mix allows the water to evaporate away.

Some non-contenders:
* Wipe on mayonnaise, let sit overnight and clean up in the morning.   I am not doing this in someone's home.

* Put on a puddle of denatured alcohol and set it on fire.  Likewise, and my trials showed bubbled finish.  Ready, aim, fire approach.

To all the Daddies, Dads, Pops, Papas, Uncles, Grandpas, and mentors out there:  Have a great day!  Do something you enjoy and have a good time with the children (regardless of their age).  You make a difference in the world.

Does anyone have a source for mech (motor, power supply, switch) for power lift chairs?  I'm normally working on warranty work and have access to parts from retailer to mfr, but I have one coming up that may not be so.

One of my former customers (closed now) used to sell Ashley.   They told me their Dayton Store had 80% of their pre-delivery repairs were Ashley.  I saw some significant junk here in Cincinnati, too.

Today, I had a protection plan claim to replace a recliner mechanism.  Turned out to be an Ashley duo-recliner.

True to Ashley fashion,

- Rather than sending a mechanism to swap, they send a box of parts and some hardware to assemble it.  Well, I should say, most of the hardware to assemble it.   And the instruction manual (which I only found later) was for a different model.  (I've had this same issue before on pre-delivery swaps)

- Rather than spending 25 cents on Velcro, they stapled the outside back onto the frame.   So I have two rows of staples to remove.  By itself, not that big of a deal.

- Rather than spent $2 on slide and clip fasteners for the back (and making the delivery a whole lot easier) they bolted them on and the lower bolts were nearly impossible to get to and equally impossible to see to line up the new bolts.   I finally got it by lifting the seat iwth one hand, the back with the other and using my other two hands to hold the bolt and wrench.

- The holes in the new mech frame were too large for the bolts that tie it into the base & feet, requiring getting a couple of right sized bolts and nuts to secure it.

- Tack strips on outside back pulling out of OSB frame.

To add irony, this is the second time the mech needed to be replaced in the first five years of ownership (the owner was not obese and was a flight attendant so presumably away from home a fair amount of time.)

And it was only a $400 piece of furniture.


If you ever get asked about a job to work on Ashley, run, run, run.

I believe my former customer used to call it "Trashley"

Found this glue guide, in one chart.



Also helpful is http://www.thistothat.com/

I got some of Titebond's new glue, Quick & Thick Multi-Surface Glue but haven't had a chance to try it yet.  http://www.titebond.com/news_article/16-01-19/Titebond_s_New_Quick_Thick_Multi-Surface_Glue_Bonds_Wood_and_More-3510876831.aspx

I occasionally see people recommend construction adhesive, but when I looked it has 10% of the shear strength of the white/yellow wood glues.  Don't think I'll be using it for much in the future.

Some of you know I do repairs and not "in shop upholstery."   And I do all sorts of repairs from upholstery to frame repairs, electric and mechanical recliner mechs, and casegoods (beds, dressers, chairs, tables, doors, drawers, and finish repairs.   I'm visiting a daughter this weekend and installing some linen cabinets I made for her and brought along my traveling tool kit.   I wonder how it compares with what you guys have/carry.  Yes, it all fits in one Husky tote and though most things weigh only a couple of ounces, the tote goes about 40 lbs.


* Staple puller(s), I normally use Osborne 121 as I need to reattach fabric most often, not replace
* Spring puller (for R&R recliner mech springs)
* Awl
* Heavy duty scissors
* Fabric scissors
* Small pliers
* Multi-tip screwdriver (Pic-Quik)
* 35 pc GearWrench Micro driver set - complete set of metric & SAE socket wrenches, all types of driver bits -straight, slotted, Phillips, hex drive (SAE, metric added later), #2 Posi-driv (added), Torx. (fits any 1/4" drive bit from other sources)
- Utility knife
- Set of misc. shims, few toothpicks for loose screws
- 10" Vise Grip pliers, curved jaws
- Straight and curved hemostat grippers
- Needle nose pliers
- Pencil
- 4-in-hand rasp/file
- Set of 4 wood chisels 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1"
- 10 oz claw hammer
- 20 oz dead-blow hammer
- magnetic mechanic's dish
- Sets of SAE and Metric ratcheting box / open end wrenches
- 8" adjustable (crescent) wrench
- two 4" F-clamps
- Painter's pry bar
- Nail pulling bar/pry bar
- 10 water pump pliers (e.g., Channellock)
- "Extractor" nail/staple puller
- Set of nail sets, center punch
- Hearing protectors
- Mechanic's gloves
- Small waist apron for holding tools/parts
- Flashlight
- Circuit tester (yes, I have found recliners that didn't work because the wall outlet was dead)
- Mirrored inspection tool
- 12' tape measure
- 6" calipers
- Magnetic pick up tool
- Grabber pick up tool
- Extra long slotted screwdriver
- Folding square that goes 135, 90 & 45 degrees
- 4" combo square
- Japanese pull saw (Shark saw carpenter's)
- Small can 3-in-1 oil
- Small bottle of wood glue
- Screw lube
- Bar of paraffin wax
- 12" cable ties
- Mechanic's hand cleaner

Often use auxiliary "drill box" containing
- 12v. cordless drill with extra battery
- set of twist drill bits
- Kreg jig K3 and mini
- countersink bits for #10 and #8 screws
- self centering hinge bit (vix-bit)
- variety of driver bits, mostly #2 phillips and square drive of different lengths
- 90 degree driver attachment
- Selection of 1.25" and 1.5" pocket screw screws
- Vice grip pad clamps for holding pocket hole jig & joints
- Stripped screw extractor set


How does yours compare?

Some time back, we had a discussion on this tool.   Northern Tool has it on sale currently with free shipping.  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200431964_200431964?utm_source=Email&utm_medium=021116_FreeShipping&utm_campaign=021116_eDeals&utm_content=P1&cm_lm=[email]byhammerandhand@yahoo.com[/email]&STATE=&HOT_MEM_CODE=&MARKETCODE=&om_rid=AAj00y&om_mid=_BWvJP0B9Kos5nx

While you are there, they also have this great item. (wondering why it's a #1 seller???)
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_29481_29481

Popular Mechanics March 2016 has a nice, though basic, article on furniture restoration.  Might want to look it up at your library or newsstand.

For a more thorough coverage of the subject, I've found this book very helpful
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580114784?keywords=furniture%20restoration%20repair&qid=1454970875&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2    I got the original "unabridged" version and was a bit shocked at the price on the smaller version.