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My question is...If an entire NEW chair costs $47, why does the customer think you can reupholster them for less than that cost?  I KNOW I couldn't and wouldn't

I use an awl to pop em up and wire cutters to pull em out.  I also made my own removing tool from a Gasket scraper.  Cut v grooves in the blade and it works quite well

Just wondering what the average cost/pricing would be for a Lazy Boy Recliner Re-Upholstering job. I've has several requests but when I calculate the time + materials costs to do the job, I'm thinking it's not worth my time or the customers money to do the job.
What are you guys charging? 
My calculations are $200 for material and $400 labor.  Am I way off???

I made this 6 1/2" handwheel for mine.  Slowed her down to about 1/2 speed.  I also adjusted the clutch so it engages at the very touch of the pedal.  SOOOOOO much better.  Wheel is made from Cheap MDF Took 15 minutes to make it using 5 minute epoxy and my wood lathe.  I've made several for other "Stitchers" and they all love em.  If you need help with one, contact me and I'll lend a hand.

I use 1/8" or 3/16" Window Screen vinyl spline for all my Marine and Outside project welt. I can get it for about 12 Cents a foot and it works Great!!!

I've done several Patio Furniture projects.  Here in Oklahoma, I price as follows...
Calculate the amount of material you'll need and add 5% for waste.  I charge 10% over the my costs for the material.
Don't forget your thread, staples etc.. in your Costs.
After I'm comfortable with the cost of ALL materials I then Guess-ti-Mate the time.  I've learned l that once I get this number I add 50% more and multiply that number by what I want my hourly rate to be.  (Usually $30 per hour) 
Rarely have I felt that I "Screwed" myself.  I totally agree about why a customer would pay the xtra bucks.  If they can't find what they're looking for...They have to PAY for it!!!  I must say, ALL my Patio Clients have been able to pay for what they want and not blink.  Those that blink...Shop the Big Box Stores!!!!

I use Blue Tape on Vinyl and the Old Tan Tape on Cloth.  Works equally as well.

I have a slightly different method.  I used to sew on the back side but always preferred the top. Sooo, I use 3/4" masking tape and offset it so I can follow the edge of the tape with the side of the walking foot.  It works great. I mark the top and bottom in the selvage area and then stretch the tape between the two marks.  Hope that all makes sense.

I use an Old Weller soldering gun and Made my own "Knife" Attachment out of 10guage solid copper wire.   Used a hammer to flatten about 1 1/2" section and then bent to shape.  It Works GREAT!!! Gets HOT within seconds and since it has a 1 1/2" cutting edge I can accurately cut any suitable fabric.  The Weller Gun cost me $20 bucks on Ebay. 

How thick are they?  If 5-6"  you can make a envelope panel for the back boxing piece.  Example:  take two pieces of material 6" wide  Hem one side with a 1/2" hem leave the other alone for your outer selvage for the seam.  Over lap the two pieces equally and sew the ends closed.   To Install the foam bend it and stuff it in the cover through the envelope opening and fold flat.  You can also sew a 3-4" long piece of velcro in the middle of the two pieces to help aide keeping the envelope opening closed.

Hope this all made sense.

I offer this for everyone's consideration...http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflin.html

No MG.  Just Ext. Grade.

I've had this debate many times over the years.  Plywood has 1/16th" plys before you hit the glue line.  The edges as most of us know is where it's very susceptible to water penetration.  I clamp several pieces together and then liberally apply the recipe to them until it starts to Pool and then wipe off the excess.  When it dries after about 2-3 days I follow up with 2-3 coats of Ext. Polyurethane. 

Test:  I did this to a 2x2' square piece of wafer board.  As you well know if it gets wet it bloats and crumbles.  After treating it, I nailed it to the west side of my house to FACE the Brutal weather conditions we have in Oklahoma.  Sun, Wind, Ice, Snow, Rain  You name it we have it.  After a Year and a half I took it down.  It pretty much looked exactly the way it did when I put it up.  No evidence of any water penetration.  I figure if it will do that when it's crap wood and totally exposed,  Using it for seat backs and bases that won't see that kind of abuse for years, then it's good enuf.

I guess I'll try it with just Poly and see what results I get.  Always willing to Live and Learn.

I beg to differ about the BLO.  It does help  It has a LOT of solids in it and when thinned with the MS it's carried deep into the edges of the plywood where it's the most suseptible to water.  Once the MS evapprates off  the Solids in the BLO expand again and seals the wood much more effectively than just plain urethane varnish.  I've use this formula for 40 years in outdoor environment projects and it's bee extremely effective.  I won't be changing it.  I highly recommend it over straight polyurethane.

32oz marine Vinyl with 1/2" Scrim Foam backing.  Using #92 Polyester Marine Thread.  Seat bases and backs were all water logged and rotted.  Had to remake them as well.  Used my wood sealer formula of 1 Part Boiled Linseed Oil, 2 Parts Mineral Spirits and One Part Spar Varnish.  Saturated the plywood edges and then coated everything with 3 full coats of the spar varnish.   They won't rot again.

Just finished the rear seats and Deck Hatch Cover on a 22' Cobalt Boat  Next will be the Bow Cushions.  LOTS of Pleats!!!!