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Thanks, that helps a lot. I am going to go with contact cement. This is the chair and the last pic is the fabric I am using. I made the rosewood rocket glides and did the artwork on the back. It is for a show in August and go woth a desk I am building in blackened steel and  acacia. Always a bit nervracking trying something new on something you already have a lot of work in. I am thinking coat the fabric but just do a few inched at a time on the foam so I dont risk sticking something where it doesnt belong. Does that sound like a good plan of attack?

They are not using wood panels. Hope the pictures make it more clear.

Has anyone ever upholstered a eames fiberglass chair? I am ok with the sewing upholstery and cutting and glueing the foam but am not sure what the best foam would be and the best way to glue the fabric. Any guiedence would be appreciated.

Thanks, Chris

Can you post a picture. I have a few solutions that may work if I am picturing the issue correctly but I would have to see how it is constructed to give any advice.

Cheers, Chris

Anyone familiar with Robert Allen Fabric? I picked up about 25 yards at a estate sale this morning for $150. It seemed like a nice fabric and  there was enough to do the sofa and matching chair. I figured at that price I could resell it if it wasn't appropriate for my project. I know very little about fabrics and have been kind of overwhelmed with all the choices, this was the color I wanted and I like the texture so I went for it. Found it on their website but there isn't any pricing and I don't have a clue what the specs mean. http://www.robertallendesign.com/trade/fabric_detail.aspx?product=231960. Is this a good choice for a sofa?

Anyone else had a lot of problems with coil spring cushions? My decision to use them was that is what my sofa has and it is very comfortable and has lasted about 14 yrs so far.

No progress on the sofa but I got the frame to a sling chair I have been wanting to build done. This should be a good project to try my hand at sewing...it is being done in a light tan duck canvas so if I make a mistake it wont be that costly! The guy who has been doing my upholstery has a Juki same as the one in my shop so he is going to show me how to run it tomorrow.

Good points, I may have to revisit doweling. If set up properly I can see it being much quicker. Right now I have 9 routers and various jigs preset to do specific joints so the overwork is to a minimum but the overkill is most likely justified. I am used to most of my joints being visible, the effort it takes to clean out the glue joint on a dowel joint compared to a dato or dovetail is worth the work in joinery! Much more squeeze out on a dowel joint. Nothing worse than a light stripe at the joint because the glue soaked in and didn't allow the finish to penetrate!

Thanks again for the input. Different set on rules from what I am used to but that is why I am asking questions!

Cheers

Thank you for the input!
I am positive the one in the picture has zigzag springs. Is their any reason I should not design it with tied springs? They use the zigzag springs a lot at work and I am not a fan. They would be easier but I like the idea of hand tied. my current sofa is hand tied and it is just as comfortable as when it was new in the same time frame I have been though three with zigzag that ended up feeling like I was sitting in a bucket. I am sure the cushions were a factor as well but if I am building it I want to do the best I can.

As far as the joints I am with hammerhand on no dowels. I will be doing a combo of dovetails, mortise and tennon and lap joints with some blocking and pocket screws. That is what I use everyday and I am set up to do those quickly. I am glad that was pointed out.. I had been wondering why the focus on dowels when their are mechanically superior joints. I am guessing it is a production thing.

I will have to try driving a couple tacks into the maple and see how it works out...funny you mention that because the other wood I have a overload of is Hickory which I chose not to use for that very reason as well as weight.

I will post pics, It might be slow progress though we have been extremely busy at work! I received my veneer this morning, 5 flitches of Bolivian rosewood about 100 sq ft each  so I have plenty to choose from. Started taking pictures and laying out bookmatch possibilities for the back and sides in photoshop.

Cheers, Chris

Hi everyone Chris here. I am starting my first upholstered piece of furniture, a case sofa similar to the one pictured. I have been reading a lot and am finding some conflicting info so I thought I would ask the professionals!

First let me go over some of my plan...We have a lot of 6/4 maple leftovers in the shop so that is what the frame is being made of with the case portion being skinned in a marine grade ply and veneered. One of my biggest complaints on a modern sofa is they are usually hard as a rock so I am planning on 8way tied springs with the cushions being a coil boxed in foam with a down pocket top and bottom so they can be flipped.

1st question is coils, I had planned on making a 4" frame with 6" coils so the coils would be flush with the top of the frame. I have been told that is not the correct way that I should use 8" springs and add foam all the way around the edge to bring it flush. Opinions?

2nd does anyone have pics of a well built frame in this style? I have a good idea what I am going to do but I do have a tendency to overbuild things and would prefer to not have to use a crane to move it when done.

Last I am confident I tie the springs and upholster the sides and back, the cushions have me a bit scared as I have never run a sewing machine. I have a regular sewing machine as well as a industrial straight stitch and serger in the shop I lease space in. Should I give it a shot or hire someone to do the cushions?

Cheers, Chris