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i will add some pictures as i go with this cover.

snaps are going into the rub rail okay. i was not sure which glue is the 5200, so i am using a PL premium glue in the holes.the test snap looks good.

i am trying to match up to a customers enclosure that was originally made with Maine sport topping material. this material is vinyl on the face with woven cotton like fabric on the inside.
The piece i am replacing is the back widow section with zippers.
One of my suppliers, identified the material, but only noted it has long been discontinued.
Is there any equivalent material on the market now?
Could i substitute regular seating marine vinyl, if I oriented the stretchier direction of the vinyl across the beam of the boat? the largest piece in the paenl is about 24" by 30". The zippers and seams in the panel could serve to stabilize to minimize the stretching.

if i pop rivet the snaps, then could i go below the rub rail with the cover

Hi All,
i have not posted for quite awhile, been away from upholstery for some time.
i am doing a 15" aluminum fishing boat. Lots of carpet, hence the need for a cover. Boat stays in the water. No motor well.
Snap on cover seems the easiest, however there are no snap bases on the boat.
The only place with any thickness to attach the snap bases is the aluminum rub rail. Will the screw in snap bases work or do i need to drill and tap and use the threaded snap bases?

i have been pondering a draw strap cover, but cannot quite see how the cover could be kept taut enough to keep water from pooling.

The screws did go back into the replacement mesh material and seemed to snug in. I probably should have used a small shot of glue at each nail. I think if they have no chance to move relative to the material they will not work their way back out.

Could definitely sit down and get up out of the chair a few times without anything shifting. Also laid in some duct tape on the underside to help keep things in place.

I am doing a front rain cover for a pontoon boat. Boat sits bow high so all the rain water drains into the boat.
I have done one before, a wide panel that came off the front by the canvas and down to the edges. But it was a pain drilling and tapping the bumper edges for snaps.
Or could i just wrap the material around the corners and elastic or velcro under the corner?



Or is there an easy way to seal off the bottom edge of that front gate from the rain and avoid a cove completely?

Exisitng attachment is like a spiral nail that got driven into the aluminum.
Anyone tried to remove and reuse these type of fasteners?


Also open to other simple solutions

the wrinkling could be from the inside of the fabric sticking to the dacron. every time the person sits on the cushion they roll a small amount of dacron forward. soon that adds up to a big lump. if you have some of the fabric left try rubbing it over the dacron, if it really sticks then some type of intermediate layer like the stockinette (or thin film) is needed to break that action.

gluing the dacron down helps or as i have sometimes done, simply loosely stitching the edges can work.

Lifting is not at a corner, it is along the top curved section of the windshield. The compression fit is gone in that area.I was wondering if I could crimp it back using padded pliers/clamps.
The windshield was removed in the past by some else doing repairs and I do not think replaced too well. The pass through section binds every time you open it.

Ran into a slight problem when pulling to fit a bimini top. I could see that the windshield frame is lifting away from the top of windshield glass right in front of the drivers seat.
About a 10" section length
( this is the crest liner job referenced in another post.)

I have tugged the rubber gasket back down onto the glass and used a rubber mallet to pound the frame back down (about a foot of the frame was lifting up). But, If I push on the frame it will lift back up (as will attempting the fit the bimini snaps.)

The owner does know there is a problem with the windshield, so that issue is okay. But if I go ahead and basically loosely fit the bimini , will the frame then lift later if you go boating with the bimini up and the wind pulls it.

Can I crimp it back onto the glass?  Should this be glued?

The shape of this cover is different.
Looking back, I wish I had seen the old cover on the boat so I could have asked the customer if they wanted to keep that shape. I priced the cover with it off the boat sitting on the ground.  I did not pick up on the strange shaping at the time. It was in such bad shape that I do not think my customer had used it for years.  But hindsight is wonderful.

A line from the front bar to the windshield is NOT straight. There is actually an angle of the canvas to the plastic that is simply formed by the material.
There is a slight gather in the canvas across this seam that i think is going to drive me insane.
Right now I am going to try to pattern with a mockup in pattern material sewn together between the front bow and the windshield.

If you look at other crest line sea hawk fishing boat images on google some look even stranger.

Additional question? would 20 or 30 g plastic be better for the front clear portion where it attachs to the windshield?

Just how much of a pain is it to pattern the drop/curve in the cover where the canvas meets the plastic on the front? Any advice.
I can pattern from the bow to the windshield edge with pattern material, but that will give me a straight line between not the dogleg drop that you can see in the picture.