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I know this is an old topic, but it is mine and I wanted to update it in case somebody finds it searching for their own problem. 

My machine had a couple of problems that were causing this issue, but the main one was the spring after the tensioner was adjusted so high it wasn't holding resistance against the thread at all.  Also, the walking foot was somehow a little off center and that was causing the material to push back ever so slightly towards me every time it came down and contacted the material.  The repairman that found these things also adjusted the presser foot tension and now my machine runs "Like a Singer" -please excuse the expression...

I hope that helps somebody having the same issue.

Hi guys.  It's been a while since I've been in here, but I have a question.  I have an old 111w101 with no reverse and I have upgraded to a servo motor so I can control the speed.  I finally got the thread unraveling and breaking issue that was plaguing me resolved (simple spring adjustment, $100 repair bill) and have my timing right so things are moving along swimmingly.  I have another customer that wants me to redo one of his boat seats and since I don't have reverse I think a knee lifter would help me out a lot.  Do any of you know if my machine has provisions for or can accept a knee lift?  I see the knee lift kits available for very reasonable but I'm just not sure if I will be able to install one aftermarket on my machine.

Sorry I haven't been around too much, but my trade is mechanics and electronic installs, upholstery is something I started to do for my own boat and sometimes I'm asked to do it for my customers.

Thanks in advance for any information or advice you have!

Justin

PM sent your way Virginia.  Thanks a lot!

I got a new (to me) truck and the bottom of the driver seat has a tear in it with some of the foam deteriorating.  I know I can remove and patch the seat cover, and I know I can replace the foam with stuff I have in stock, but the tear is not just a tear, it's worn and fabric is missing.  My question is can I order this fabric from a manufacturer?  I just need a half a yard and don't want to pay for a seat cover that I don't need.  I also don't want to have to sway away from the factory color / texture because I don't want to have to recover the whole truck to match!  It's an 04 Ford F150 with the grey cloth interior.  This one isn't mine, but it looks a lot like it.



Thanks!
Justin

My needlebar thread guide is pretty questionable, as the thread usually starts off behind it but then comes out after a few stitches and just flops around.  It's not cutting the thread, for sure.  I noticed last night that there is a guide right after the check spring that has a groove worn into it from the thread, I wonder if that is causing the issue.  I added tension to the check spring, switched to a non-bonded poly thread and did a test piece practicing french seams, which went through without breaking the thread, but I think I have a tension issue somewhere because the machine would sew perfectly by hand, and hum along at low to medium speeds, but at higher speeds it would eventually cause big blobs of thread on the bottom side of the material.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't ust take it to somebody for a full tune up, but budgets are tight.  Anybody in Houston that you guys can recommend?

It happens with new needles so I don't think it's that, and I did most of my boat without it ever happening, including using the same foot, but I drilled out the foot last night just to be sure.  Still happened.  I can now see that when the needle goes down and through the canvas when it comes up it has a wrap of top thread around it and that's what breaks- like it's the point of the needle snagging it when it makes this loop.  I ended up finishing the awning with my house machine and a welt foot that it has, but I really need to get my "good" machine up and running again.  I just don't know what would cause that wrapping other than timing.  At what point in the groove of the needle does the hook need to intersect it?  The thread hole is way at the bottom of the groove and my hook is intersecting the needle towards the top of the groove on the upward stroke.  Does that sound right?

Oh, ok.  Yes then, that was done.  I set it at its lowest point a long time ago, but last night I bottomed out the cc screw and then put the bb screw back on top so it's as low as it can go.  This was done before the adjustment party.

I did not set the stitch length to 0, not really sure there's a 0 on the dial, but I'll look.

The thread is going from left to right and the grove is on the right side of the needle, where the hook can grab it.

Wow!  Well, I guess it's like the say... "If you're going to do something, do it right."  I have broken my hand, arms, foot, gums (yeah, gums) but never a finger like that.  Keep it immobilized and it'll be fine.  The good news is now you will always know when it's going to rain or be cold outside.

Hey guys, it's been a while, I hope everybody is doing well!  I'm back and with an old issue that I need to revisit as it's keeping me from finishing the welt on an awning which needs to go camping this weekend.

I have a Singer 111w101 and have made every adjustment I can think of, from adjusting the shaft position of the hook gear to adjusting tension on the top thread and I still get this issue.  If I run the machine by hand, the top thread does fine, but as soon as I put some power to it, almost regardless of speed, I get freying on my top thread at the needle.  Eventually it nicks the thread fibers enough that the thread breaks and I have to back up and start over where the issue began.  I thought it might have been from burrs on the throat plate so I pulled it, re-drilled the hole and polished it top and bottom so I know that's not it either. I was able to live with it on my last project, but now it's doing it about every foot of sewing.  Any theories or ideas?  I really appreciate any help you guys can give!



Thanks again!

I have the pink spots too.  I initially thought it was bleed through from a sharpie but June told me about the fungus and after further research that's what it is.  Funny to hear the comments on here, especially about the cheap vinyl, since the stuff I removed was thin with the fuzzy back and it had no pink, but as soon as I put some new Port o' Call vinyl on there I get the spots everywhere.

I will tell you this, the Ortho rose anti-fungus did not help in any concentration, and when applied straight it melted the vinyl.  I don't reccommend it.  I'm just going to face the music and recover the seats again, this time paying special attention to cleaning the foam.  I think I will wet it and freeze it after I clean it, just to make sure nothing survives; I don't want to have to do them again-again!

Man I don't know the ratio, but I'd make it stout.  Bleach isn't going to damage the foam, too much would definately be better than not enough.  Don't under-do it and end up having to redo the job!

-j

Great response, I appreciate it!

It never really did make sense to me how there could be that much red ink anyway as I did the cushions one at a time so there was no panel labeling and most of the seam marks got cut off after sewing.  I'm going to go buy the Ortho Rose fungicide at lunch today, seems to be the only thing I can get anybody to sware by that it works and lasts...

Wish me luck, if this doesn't work I'm going to have to buy a servo motor, new vinyl (from a different supplier, I guess, since quality is the cause) and all new foam, not counting my time!

Prayers for Mike and my deepest condolences to your daughter and her family.  Far be it from us to speculate at God's master plan, but rest assured in times of grief there is one.