I have a client requesting leather upholstered dining seats. I do have some leather scrap I can practice with, since it is very unlike vinyl or wovens. What else should I do to get acquainted with the material?
Are the seats sewn? Or just tacked on?
The main thing to get acquainted with, is how you will be cutting the panels most efficiently. Hides are expensive, and not all parts of a hide are usable.
Are there some needles that are better for piercing leather hide when sewing ?
SA
These are the simplest seats possible. No sewing. No welt. Just a wrap.
I read a little about using water to help stretch it out. But my other thought is that it it was intended for upholstery that shouldn't be needed.
The first thing I would do is work up the estimate. A lot of people back out once they see how much leather adds to the price. How many seats are there. Will 1/2 hide work?
Got the go ahead. High-end designer.
Will be learning much here..
This is a great job to get your feet wet with leather. And to get a designer job under your belt.
"Are there some needles that are better for piercing leather hide when sewing ?
SA:
Yes there are chisel point needles for sewing leather, but for most upholstery weight leather a regular ball point needle is sufficient.
From what I can see, the hides I bought are apparently 'corrected leather'. From front to back, there appears to be a grain repeat that runs down the hide.
Just to make matters more complicated, I had to position my cuts diagonally on the hide to avoid a couple holes. I have two; the other one has no holes and can be cut normally.
Question is: Will anyone ever notice that the grain actually runs diagonally across the seat? Or, would it ever pose a problem?
I did notice that the hide has a stretch much like vinyl. Across the hide, but not front to back. It's all very curious. As you've probably guessed, this stuff is not cheap.
I would include a photo but unfortunately I don't think it would help much.
Just to reiterate, these are simple drop-in dining seats.
By drop in do you mean they sit inside a frame? If so make sure you have ample room for the added thickness of the leather. I wouldn't worry about the grain although when you say corrected leather it makes me wonder if this is embossed into the leather. If so and noticeable it may matter. But with leather you have to use what you can. And on a tight seat you can basically use most of the hide.
You will like working with leather. Good leather is really nice to work with. Cheap over processed stuff is a challenge at times.
Drop in is the wrong terminology. Only issue is at the posts. The seat sits on top.
I would definitely steer my designer away from this next time. Indeed, grain has been embossed on top, and then coated with polyurethane.
I have other genuine leather scraps that are much different, and easier to stretch.
I'll figure it out from here and post a finish pic.
Holy Moly. I really should have advocated for pleather.
I fully expected this front corner to be a challenge, especially with the thickness. Challenge is an understatement.
It's hard to believe that it's a 'cheaper' leather, with the cost, but nevertheless it is. And doesn't stretch like 'normal' leather.
My approach has been a butterfly pleat. I like the look of a tailor pleat better, but given the thickness of the leather I'm not sure that's possible.
I've sewn up some 1/4" inch welt to go around the base of the seat, since I really will need something thicker to hide all those layers.
Any tips are appreciated.
Embossed leather has very little stretch. I don't know if a little moisture would help. By butterfly pleat I guess you mean a pleat on each side of the corner. This is a good approach. Work as much of the fabric toward the center of the seat as possible. When you make that butterfly pleat the first pull is toward the corner to split the pleats. Pull the tar out of it and if you can gather as much leather as possible under there before you make the pleat. It should help to make the pleat a little smaller. Use plenty of staples to help get the leather in the corners to lay flat. I do not envy you.
Thanks Kody. Not a fan of this embossed leather. I cut the edge of the foam at a 45 degree angle and then used muslin first. It is looking much better now.
Another thing you could try is adding a ball of cotton under the foam at each corner. This will help make the corners hard and should help keep the pleat from riding up on to the top of the seat.
Ugh. What a day. As you say, Kody, the pleat was riding up.
Normally one would stretch the heck out of vinyl and makev that pleat come down. As was done originally.
Ended up going back to straight cut foam, and made the pleats a little taller. Not my favorite, my all that can really be done with this thick, not so stretchy leather. Finished the first seat, minus welt.
Now that I have a better idea of what I'll do hopefully I can zip along. Have to finish before 5/10 at latest. 7 to go.
The first one is always the hardest. Each one gets easier as you go along. 15 minutes by the time you get to the last one.
Did one today, took about an hour start to finish I think.
Got all my pleats symmetrical. They are a bit taller since this leather doesn't stretch. It also has a poly coating on top and if you try to stretch it too much it appears as a chalky residue.
I think it actually looks pretty good and if there's enough leather left over I'm going to use 1/4" welt.
http://gdurl.com/5pHc
I see some wrinkles I didn't see before I took the photo.
One thing I learned: didn't charge enough.
Sometimes you don't realize how hard a job is until you start working with the fabric. Then what do you do? Charge more? Most customers would get upset if you did that. One thing customers don't understand is each job is different.
The seat looks pretty good to me.
Your first leather recover is 5 stars. I wonder if the well experienced here would have sewn those corners ?
I don't mean to be critical of your good work - please don't take it that way.
Just looking to see what Paul, Doyle, Darren, etc .... how they would have approached that job ?
SA
It would first depend on what the customer wanted. But from the description of the leather, sewing the front corners might work well.
The customer didn't specify. Will keep it in mind for next time, though.
Great job Ian.I'm with Paul---it's up to the customer which look you go for.
Finished the set this morning. They turned out a big more square than I would have liked. I did use 1/2" under the 2".
Overall, happy with it. Prior they were falling apart bonded leather, so it's a big improvement.
http://gdurl.com/f4Wj
All constructive criticism is welcome.