Saturday inwas seeing a strip of canvas that had turnbuttons installed in it Ingot to close snd my needle tention s rew on the needle bar came down and hit one foring the screw out. I was able to put the needle bsck in and got the scree to hold. Ut i didnt go to tight se im sure the threads sre goofed up. Im going to need s new needle bar soon im sure
sounds rooted old chap
guess you could roll it around on some blueing ink or beetroot juice (you can beat an egg but you can't beat a r##t) whereupon your flatbed then on paper to check imprint - bro just like how they do blueprint motor parts
maybe one could say it's time to bar up dude from China
have a great day boss
g'day
Mike:
Give Bob Kovar a call or e-mail him and ask him to ship you one. I know he stocks these parts.
I did the same thing, stripped out the screw on the needle bar and had to order a new one.
They are fairly cheap and actually the one he sold me was for a Singer. The Chandlers, Seikos and Consew ones are expensive. But the Singer bar is a perfect replacement so Bob advised me to buy that one to save me some money. One of the reasons why I do business with Bob, he will always find the most economical solution for you. :)
He can talk you through the change out process. There are two ways to change them and one is alot more work then the other. I didn't bother to call him and get advice and just went ahead and changed it. Guess which way I did it ?? Yup...the hard way. Bobby ( his son ) later told me of the other way. :)
Here is Bob's contact details: 419--380-8540 Sewmun@aol.com
Chris
whoops sorry me hearties thought the needle bar coulda been bent like me ..
there is threads and there's threads for sure for sure
and there's stripped threads and drills and taps and slightly oversize screwbolts
but screw it it's always nice to buy yourself something new
:o
Edit - trust a Catholic to get to the root of the problem mate!
Ive got some work to catch up on so as long ss the needle gives me no trouble im going to use it as it. I resly hate a repair shen im i the middles of somthing but that rich ill give bob a call when im ready. Ove got my juki second maching and a back up siger 111 head. I mau steal it off there if i have to.
I'd be really tempted to put in a needle, plug that screw hole with JB Weld or MarineTex Grey and tap a new hole when it cured.
June
Ive always used white marine tex june. i think theres lavk too maybe but whats the grey?
From their website:
COLORS: White and Gray. Marine-Tex Gray is recommended for machinery repairs. Marine-Tex White can be tinted with ITW Fibre-Glass Evercoat's coloring agents for fiberglass and wood applications. Be sure to use only a small amount of coloring agent (no more than 5% of the total volume of epoxy.)
And:
COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH*:
Gray - 13,000 PSI (910 Kg/Cm2)
White - 8,700 PSI (610 Kg/Cm2)
ADHESION SHEAR STRENGTH*:
Gray - 1,800 PSI (126 Kg/Cm2)
White - 2,300 PSI (160 Kg/Cm2)
TENSILE STRENGTH*:
Both White and Gray - 4,000 PSI (280 Kg/Cm2)
It's ALL good. Love Marine Tex! :-X Kinda like duct tape for boats! Works great for repairing leaks in swimming pools as well. And the pipes under your sink. And your broken radiator. And.... :D
June
Hey guys, regarding JB Weld, what you guys are telling me or intimating is on a steering wheel (older restored car) the screws holding the horn contact in place are stripped out and JB Weld could be used to fill the holes and then drill and re-tap. Or would I need to fill the holes (about 1/8 Th inch in diameter)?
A nice new wheel for this car (69 restored beetle convertible) is very expensive, I need to find out more about this. I even priced a used wheel and they wanted a hundred bucks for it but it looked bad. Otherwise the cost didn't bother me.
I would want the gray, it won't be getting wet.
Or would you just get the old threads wet and then tap?
I think a new wheel (reproduction) in several hundred. The wheel I have, looks fine, some clown screwed the threads up while working on it.
Doyle
That's a whole different world, Doyle. What I'm suggesting to Mike is to make his sewing machine useful (or easier to use) again. What you're looking at is the steering on a motor vehicle. I would NOT rig anything in the steering assembly of a car. Now I don't know exactly where you might be suggesting to use a patch, but personally, the liability is not worth the few hundred savings. JMHO.
June
I do t think doyle talking about the a tual steering wheel. Ut the horn button. Id tey that myself doyle.
Somthing cars dont have anymore
LOL, no this isn't related to the main steering integrity of the car. The sector, steering shaft, nor integrity of the wheel isn't part of the problem.
Like you said Mike, it is two (or is it three?) screws that hold the brass horn button ring that is activated only when the horn button/ring on the wheel is depressed.
One part of my question is, repeating, small holes in the wheel, would the approach be to fill holes solid with JB W or just get the old distorted threads wet with JB and then re-tap? I don't have good judgement as how strong JB is. If I just get the hole partially filled, in the thread area and re-tap, then that maintains precision of hold and avoids the drilling step.
There is reasonable pressure on the three screws as it does hold the horn ring and brass (some alloy) in place which a driver does apply some force when horn is activated.
I suppose it is time to do some reading and testing. Like what exact metal is the steering made of and how effective is JB on that type of metal? Probably more to learn than I know questions to ask....... :)
I have a bunch of money in this little car, everything has been gone through. Absolutely no rust, one could eat off the under carriage, and it is back to originality. Yellow with black top and interior.
I never thought of JB Weld, thanks,
Will see,
Doyle
Suggest grab a cheap tap and die kit from the local hardware store made in China, twenty bucks tops, and find the tap in the kit (it looks like drill bit, others ones are the dies and round for cutting a thread on rod as opposed to being into a drill hole). Stooge around with the various sizes for the closest fit to your particular buggered up threads, SAE or AF or whatever. Probably won't be metric.
Put the tap on the little handle provided and run it clockwise through the threads on the horn environs being with sewing machine oil; a half turn in, ease out, a full turn in, ease out, more ouil, coupla turns in, out oil etc, clean up oily mess and check bolt screws in nice. Hey man you know what i mean.
Else drill out the old thread and then go next size tap up and buy small bolts to fit.
Lotsa fun, probably a lot stronger than epoxy as it'll be origonal metal, and, the tap and die set will come in later handy for swingin' in the breeze of popular project..
I hate to say when people are wrong,BUT do not put J.B.Weld in the needlebar as you might have trouble getting it out when you get the correct screw & #2 don't try to tap the needle screw hole,you'll just break the tap & the you'll need a new needlebar,these needle bars are very hard steel & DO NOT tap easy.The screw is alot easy to put in than buying & changing the needlebar.
HTH
Bob
One trick I've used in numerous places is to clean the female threads well with solvent. Wax the screw. Put a dab of jb weld to threads of screw then screw in and let set up. The wax stops it from sticking to the screw and will leave zero slop fitment with some of the strength of the original threads intact. I do the same thing to take up the slop on jaw slide/eye ends that are subject to back and forth loads to take up the slop.