Tis the season! I'm into glass replacement hell, seems every single one I've had calls for 40 gauge Strata. All the shears in the shop are dull as hoes so trimming the new stuff and cutting out the old stuff is beyond torture. What do you guys use to accomplish the feat? Is there any kind of tool out there along the lines of a beefed up seam ripper that will allow you run the cutting edge along the inside of the window?
I use a utility blade to score it thentear it apart e ec it reacing thenvinyl. With new I'll score the old and tear it out
Whoa, Mike! Lemme see if I understand you correctly... . Boss will have a stroke if I'm seen bringing an utility knife within 6' of the Strata, lol. I'm not even permitted to touch the damn stuff... no kidding. Strata tubes are only to be touched by Boss. (like I will disintegrate it if I touch it, lol).
This is how I presently do it:
I cut the corners of the window that will be removed.
I tape the new Strata in place and secure it with a couple of strategically placed staples.
I drive around the new stuff, centering the stitching on the tape.
(This is the part that's so hard on my hands, the removal of the original window)
This is where you score the old stuff with the utility knife? or do you score it before you tape in and sew the new stuff??
And then you're able to simply tear the old stuff out because scoring it weakens it enough?
Gulp!
Yup! Me too. Like Mike. I tried the scissor thing - gave up after about 10 inches over 6 years ago and never looked back. Cut one corner (so you have a place to start pulling), sew the new glass under the old (or over - your preference), then score the old glass right next to the canvas with a box cutter using a NEW blade. Dull won't do you any favors here. Best done early in the morning or right after lunch. This requires a steady hand. I've had bad luck using a straight-edge so just freehand it.
Note, it's important to not stop too long in one spot if the old glass is still fairly soft. The blade will sink right through it with just the weight of your hand and nick the new glass.
Then bend along the cut edge - this usually helps crack the old glass a bit, then just pull it off. You'll be amazed how fast it is and easy on the hands. That is, unless the glass is so old and brittle it just breaks up. I've had it crack into shards like real glass panes.
June
Bobbin, June put me on to this ripping the stuff, it's just amazing the way you get a quick clean cut.
It's just like cutting real glass, instead of scoring & snapping it you are scoring it & ripping it apart :D
8)
Suzi
awesome info here!!! I wish i would have known this 6 months ago when i did a window replacement. cutting the old glass out with scissors was brutal!
If I'm replacing a window and putting in new its easier to score the vinyl and tear it like June doese ocut the corner up so you can start to tear scoring first is safer not to cut through to the new window.
Sew the new strata on And score and tear to finnished shape after sewing On a new canvas I score my strata also you can mark a lk e a trace it tearing is allot easier and faster the trying to cut with sissors.
we have a different way of doing it all together..
and this is replacing window material that the window has a douple stitch around it............
from the backside, we cut the material between stitching lines, favoring the inside.. pull the stitching on the outside line along with the narrow piece of window material that was origionally cut..
the new window material is layed atop the old and sewn in following the outside line.. flip the window over and with a razor knife, slice the stitching around the window on the old material.. the old window lifts out leaving the new material stitched at the outside line..
alittle blow with the air gun around the edge will clean out any dirt caught in the canvas and then we sew the inside line back down to the glass,
what you have is a comeplete removal of the old window material, and when its stitched on the same lines, you cant tell the material has ever been replaced, except for the new material being in it...
Whatever works Randy
I think I am sentanced to another of those Strata jobs tomorrow AM. I am going to bring in my utility knife complete with fresh blade and give this "tear thang" a shot. Nothing can be worse that trying to use a seam ripper to cut the stuff!
Thanks!
It's just me but I hate to see the bit of clear vinyl left it. I always remove it completly and sew in new. Just finished some here myself.
I've fried the thing where you remove theold window completely opening the seam a d swing I the new at the same time sorta.
But I've found that scoring the old first. Then sewing on a new window inside
I'll even trim the edge inside with 3/4" binding sewn flat to bide the new raw edge of vinly the remove the prescored old piece is the fastest way for me to go.
Time is money. Ice got to go price a complete redo tomorow on a glacier bay.
Same as RandyR I don't like to leave old window in either.
The only exception is if the customer wants a really quick cheap job.
Lynn
Quote from: Lynn on May 07, 2011, 07:26:29 pm
The only exception is if the customer wants a really quick cheap job.
Lynn
do t they all ;)
I have yet to meet the customer that is not "all about" money. I see their eyes glaze over when given the estimate that includes the cost of Strata. Getting them to accord me the time to do a complete glass removal... no way!
There is no way I could get our repair crowd to bite for the dough required to remove all traces of the previous window.
I am "all about" your technique but for me ... no matter how fabulous it may be, it won't be "worth it' for me.
Quote from: bobbin on May 08, 2011, 03:17:17 pm
I have yet to meet the customer that is not "all about" money. I see their eyes glaze over when given the estimate that includes the cost of Strata. Getting them to accord me the time to do a complete glass removal... no way!
There is no way I could get our repair crowd to bite for the dough required to remove all traces of the previous window.
I am "all about" your technique but for me ... no matter how fabulous it may be, it won't be "worth it' for me.
I have to agree wit you on this. In the area i'm in the customer is more concerned about how much it isn't going to cost him versus how much of an exceptional job it is. Now don't get me wrong. I like to make my replacement jobs look top notch, but when they don't want to pay there has to be sacrifice somewhere. The only thing i have done the give the job a semi finished look is bind the edge of the new glass. Another thing i remind my customers about when replacing the glass is how many more years of service do they expect to get from the curtain(s) after the glass replacement. Truly, if you get another 2-3 years out of curtains that the glass is failing in you are doing very well. Of course this argument is totally different if the curtains are fairly new, but I don't see much of that.
I cover the edge of the new glass with binding as well. Most customers are just looking to extend the life of their canvas for one or two more seasons so price is the guiding factor. I'll replace a large window for around $180-$250. The same panel new would be $500 or more.
June
Quote from: JuneC on May 09, 2011, 06:50:27 am
I cover the edge of the new glass with binding as well. Most customers are just looking to extend the life of their canvas for one or two more seasons so price is the guiding factor. I'll replace a large window for around $180-$250. The same panel new would be $500 or more.
June
Thats about the same price I sell it for.. so if the window is a 3x3 foot size, sell it for $200 to replace.. the strada glass cost me $120 a sheet, so I'm using 1/2 the sheet .. $60 for material and it takes about 30 to 45 minutes minutes to replace it..
I dont see anything wrong with those numbers.. correct me if I'm wrong..
I got the job replacing the vinly on glacial bay 3 sides
2 sheet 2 new u zips 800.
Ps now some customers would walk away By but this guy has money an oil vp and dosent mind. Spending what it's worth
Just a note about "STRADAGLASS".......Awhile back I approched tri-vantage about a discount when buying 10 or more sheets at a time, and compared them with the discount I get at Keyston Bros...
The salesman made the remark about tri-vantage only selling "A" quality sheets and I must be buying a "SECOND" or "B" quality..
Thinking he was full of it, I called stradaglass and sure nuff.. they do sell "A" quality as well as 3 different grades of "B" quality..
"A" being NO flaws.. "B"1 being only flaws at the corners, "B"2 are flaws withing 1 inch of the outside and "B"3 meaning flaws anywhere..
the guy at stradaglass also stated tri-vantage only buys "A" quality and Keyston buys "B" quality..
he also said the drums are marked on the outside with an "X" on the top and the side for "B" quality..
sorry about hi-jacking the thread, but figured because were on the subject of stradaglass, its good knowledge to have......
I wonder if they have grade with there 20/20 also
Randy, I've bought "seconds" from Keyston before. Price for a 40 gauge sheet was really cheap - I don't remember exactly, but something like $65. I decided after that it wasn't worth it. It had some scratches right down the middle that were difficult to cut around. They'd be a real bargain for someone who does mostly small windows. But around here, I almost never get to do a small one.
FYI, Manart-Hirsch has good quantity breaks for multiple drums of Strataglass. It's just me and I don't like to store it so I never get more than 1 drum at a time.
June
Quote from: jsquail on May 09, 2011, 04:45:05 am
. The only thing i have done the give the job a semi finished look is bind the edge of the new glass.
if tour binding the "glass" first then sewing it onto the canvas.
Try sewing or taping the vinyl I. Ace if you do t want too many threads
then sew on binding. ( I use 3\4" ) flat biding the raw cut. Edge of the vinyl.
To me this looks better not like a tacked on repair. IMO