Over the years, after replacing cane in a piece, staining the stuff so it will last has been an issue.
Since cane doesn't readily absorb, do any of you, who do this sort of work, go about staining in a way where it looks nice and will last, would like to know your technique? If the stuff would just absorb color it would sure help. When looking at the factory stain, the items made many years ago, looks like they used a lacquer and varnish as a clear coat. Theirs seems to eventually wear off but does or did last a good number of years.
Is there a better way than fussing with the lacquer and then clear spraying? Even spraying, one has to work at getting the edges and overlapping pieces covered with stain. Like I said, sure would be easier if the stuff would absorb an oil stain. But................
This project coming up is sheet woven cane held in with glue and a spline.
Doyle
Doyle: I do a fair amount of caning, but try to avoid staining it as much as possible. I usually do not recommend it to my customers, just for the reasons you stated. Usually I will stain it if I have only done a repair and am trying to blend it in, but even that is really not effective. As I am sure you know the cane will darken with age. Your cane supplier should carry a stain produced specifically for cane, I don't know if it works any better than an oil based wood stain.
Hey. Doyle, I do a lot of caning, and frequently have to stain the cane to match the frame. As you noticed, the cane and frame were sprayed with lacquer stain all at once at the factory, which is why they all matched when new. I use Behlen spray lacquer, and less successfully, an oil-based stain on back (which absorbs well) and front (which doesn't). I have had the most success with the spray. I frequently mask off the wood if it is in good shape, and don't bother with the clear sealer. Get on The Wicker Woman website, for all kinds of advice.
Jan