Since I have been in the canvas fabrication business, I have "always" been frustrated with the fact that when I get done sewing a long stitch on, for example, a mooring cover, the stitch line always ends up having small but definite puckers, which will come out fairly easily when "pulled" on each end of the stitch line.
The main problem comes in when I want to sew the mooring cover side to side, instead of fore to aft. Due to the fact this is happening, I pretty much have to sew the center seam for to aft, to try to eliminate the problem.
Can anyone tell me what it might be caused from? I'm not sure that the machine did it when it was new, but it has for a very long time. Could it be that the presser foot needs to be adjusted?
I'm using Tenera Gore-Tex thread, winding my own bobbins
Here's a quick video clip of the issue:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1136.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn500%2Fstitchit2%2Fth_100_0259.jpg&hash=f8f926e2cdd10f264ee34a4f62cb6fe5) (http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n500/stitchit2/?action=view¤t=100_0259.mp4)
Thanks,
Chris
I have a livbt foot tension on my machine I can actually stop the material fom moving if I gold it ligbtlly. Sound like maybe the machine is pulling the fabric though and at the same time the thread. Is trying to hold it back.
You're thinking the presser foot has "too much" pressure? I definitely can't pull the material out of the foot when the foot is simply "resting" on it.
The first thing that crossed my mind is the the thread tension is too tight, or maybe the fabric in use is marginally too light for the machinery you're using. Your comment about not being able to remember if the machine did that when you first got it makes me wonder when you last cleaned out the tensioners and really went back to rework the tension settings. I know that happens to me regularly. I routinely adjust the tensions and over time they get tighter and tighter and the seams don't lie flat or have the proper "give". I find starting from scratch is very helpful; I did that with my new machine when I began the slipcovers and it made a big difference in the overall quality of the stitching.
I wasn't able to see if the line of stitching in your picture is running along the selvedge grain or cross grain (from selvedge to selvedge). There is more stretch in the goods along the selvedge and I see the "puckering" more on long join seams on awnings/canvas blanks than I do when I'm stitch across a panel. As you mentioned it's easy to "pull them out" by tensioning the seam.
If you feel like experimenting here's what I'd try:
1.) shorten the stitch length a bit
2.) loosen both the top and bobbin tensions. Remember that you're trying to allow the machine to feed more thread along the seam, but you still want those threads to be balanced properly.
3.) The "acid test" for proper tension adjustment is to stitch a sample on the true bias and have the seam lie flat, not puckered or wavy.
When u say true bias, are you saying at a 45 degree angle? I have actually taken the tensioners apart about once each summer for about the last 4 years.
Thanks,
Chris
Yes, "true bias".
there is quite a few posts on this in the past as I have been fighting
puckers on and off for a while.
yours looks like a tension problem as has already been said.
just try this first, cut one piece of material sideways off the roll
of fabric, and one cut length ways then sew them together and see what
you get ...
if still puckered..
set machine to maximum stitch length
back way off on the bobbin tension and top tensions.
do the drop test on the bobbin. ( do you know this ?)
check the force of the take up spring, if too hard then it could
cause puckers by really tugging on the tread when knot forming.
i would also check the thread release finger is actually doing its job.
the thread is held back while the knot forms and the bobbin case is then flicked
by the finger to release the thread and knot. I had some problems because
mine wasn't working correctly. It's an easy thing to miss.
if still puckering post up a video of your bobbin mechanism in operation
Rich
I would do what Bobbin said first before looking anywhere else.
Tenera on its own has been known to cause puckering in some fabrics. I had this issue with some light canvas material and after adjusting the tension it took care of the puckering.
The other thing to watch is how your feeding the material through the machine.
Chris
isnt it recommended to slightly adjust the timing
when using tenara ?
also a smaller needle and sometimes turn the needle
a tiny amount to form a better loop ?( depending on machine)
Rich
Not sure about timing. But I do use the "mr"
Needles recommended.
Also. It does do it with polyester as well
Well, here's an update-- I adjusted tensions as suggested. The knot is "just" below center. Not really on the bottom of the stitch however.
The outcome-- Amazing! Looks to have taken care of it. ::)
Talk about feel like an idiot! I've never had it clear up before by just adjusting tensions. Hopefully it will stay this way! Thanks a million gang!!
Chris
Chris,
We don't talk about feeling like an idiot on this forum since we have all been there. For some of us at least once. For others, well...
I always tell my kids, "Isn't it interesting how doing something is a lot easier when you know how to do it?"
gene
Ha ha ha. Great point Gene!
did you shoten the stitch length also as bobbin said? me id think that could cause them
id lenghten also . ::) but glad its all good now
I actually hadn't changed the stick length yet. You're saying the longer the stitch the better?
Mike, I suggested shortening the stitch because I figured the walk of the machine might be forcing too much fabric under the needle with every step. And, also because when I was having trouble with the velour upholstery fabric a few weeks ago it was suggested to shorten the stitch some. It worked! But I do like to run a longer stitch when doing marine or awning work.
Good news on the improved stitching, Stithit. I wonder if you loosened the bobbin tension just a whisker if you couldn't bring the knot up just a smidge.
As I said, I periodically back the tensions way off on all my machine and then work from there to readjust them. I don't know how it happens but they do tighten up over time. Must be those little elves that appear after we leave our shops, huh?
Yes I did adjust the bobbin as well. I had no idea the tension increases overtime. Amazing to hear.
Here's one for ya's if you dont mind and have a minute--
Everytime I put the bobbin case into the machine, I end up having to remove it again and pull morevon the thread because it somehow develops this goofy little "loop" that created so much tension it would literally brake the thread. After taking out it would have a loop just coming out between bobbin & bobbin holder. I have to pull out excess of ten to 12 ft of thread b4 issue is cleared. Too much thread on bobbin?
I use prewound bobbins and generaly have to
pull a bit of it off to thread properly.
Bobbin would the gunk that builds up between the tension disks
spread them and loosen the tention as if the spring was backed off ? I really don't know much on the machine ice just sewed and it's worked for me when outr juki messed up I've always taken it to a service facility.
Shoot I'll chance the needle and guides But Ive never meesd with the ti
ing and stuff
Honestly, Mike, I don't know if the gunk has much effect on the tension adjustments. But I know that I periodically give the top tension a tweak and after several periodic tweaks there is no doubt the overall tension is affected. But it's usually so gradual that I never really think about the cumulative toll all those "tweaks" have on the way the machine stitches.
That's why I've gotten into the habit of backing everything way off (basically deliberately screwing up the tension!) and then patiently bringing it back into proper adjustment after a good cleaning. ("spa day" for machinery).
I'm with you, though, on timing and that sort of thing. I know the theory behind it all and could probably do it myself with the manual and parts book in front of me, but since I have issues like that about once a decade I'm more than willing to call the mechanic! One of the biggest lessons I've learned over time is that paying a pro. to do something is money well spent. (after all, that's why people pay me to sew for them!)
Like my Dad says, "No two machines are the same".
I know we got the problem corrected on this thread by checking for proper thread tension, but others may not be so lucky. And, unfortunately, it shows most on Sunbrella and on long runs. Sometimes, it could also be the needle size, feed timing, all kinds of stuff. So it isn't always tensions as was the case here.