I'm planning on doing a mooring cover for my 24-foot pontoon, something I never have done before. Needless to say I plan on seeking out some 2nd's, as I don't want to waste too much on this learning experience. I've seen many covers made with 60" widths of fabric running from side to side, wouldn't it be easier to have two runs of fabric the length of the boat with a seam in the middle? Any input would be appreciated.
Big (dumb) John
Usualy 69" width won't make it in twk passesso if I'm fitting a blank over the boat I'll runn my seams sideto
side having said that right nowim doing a poontoon and I patterned it oneseam with 60 " fBric will mOe iit to the handrJlthen ilhave a seam ans add the 10" or so to cover the open section under the handrail pole down the center also.
I always go side to side when I make the blank for pontoon covers. This also allows for a steeper cover which is a plus if you live in snow country.
This brings up another question, how much higher in the center than the outside railings do you make it remembering this cover is only going to be used in the summer time when it sits on the boat hoist no snow.
Big John
I'd go at least a foot over ra bight and tight.
A bot higher would be better but not like two feet. It would look like a tent. You want the water to roll off. If it starts to puddle next to the railing it can streach and get worse.
Quotewouldn't it be easier to have two runs of fabric the length of the boat with a seam in the middle?
Like Mike said; that usually isn't wide enough, but take your measurements and draw out your cuts on a piece of scratch paper and see which way uses the least material.
The other plus to going side to side is that you are working with a shorter seam(s) and a more manageable roll of fabric as you go so nice straight seams/topstitching are a little easier.
;) When you go to pattern; one of members ( I think it was young Andrew-- 56 fairlane) answered the question of "how do you hold it up in the middle while you pattern?" with "you let it hang that far down into the boat instead". Works great.
I meant to say 60" is not wide enough for two passes if I was going to fit the fabric Blake I would ut them side to side. It nkrmaly about 11 feet o er with he pole for me. I had to make some adjustemt and will install tomorow and I'll take some pi s nut patterning I was a le to get the top out of two passes with about a fort added to cover rhe opening o. The vertical sides
Here's one I did this fall. Material is toppesey w stamoid binding on the edge. Seam down the center , 3 tent poles and worked great to keep the water from pooling anywhere. I liked the topessy , lighter weight , nice look like regular acrylic on the outside and a heavy waterproof coating on the backside. Too bad it's going away !!
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I run my seams front to rear. 2 and 1/2 widths wide of 60" material. (if a play pen cover).Snaps already in the boat and I use Quick Fits on the snap studs. Pull the canvas up tight all around and go to it. Last thing done is cutting and fitting the poles. Done this way, the weight of the material sagging in the middle of the blank as you fit the cover, will give you the right "fit and finish" when you put in the poles.
If you keep all your canvas "leftovers" as we all do, you will sometimes have enough material to add that "1/2 width " piece in your blank without ordering extra material and a lot of times I use a different color in the middle to accent the cover.
Forgive me for being so dense but when joining the two lengths of material do you put in a dart from the point of the first pole, or is that one straight seam?
Big (dumb) John
It ends up as a dart Bobbin.
Only darts on my cover are at the rail corners . Seam down the center.
We run seams side to side. Not really a dart, the piece between the poles is a rectangle the seam edges being parallel. The front and back pieces are pie shaped when laid flat. The point of the pie being the poles. We usually make them at least 24" above the rail. Or more.