hi guys ,could i ask you canvas guys for a little help. there has been a lot of posts with how to do boat seats and stuff but no how to canvas . i would like to mke new canvas covers for my boats and skid loader canvas with wimdows . but dont have a clue how to make them have a print i made but how do you guys lay out the big stuff . it would help us new guy a bunch . maybe show some seams you use ect. thanks jim
there are plenty of threads about canvas as well Jim. Maybe try a different word/phrase when you go to the archive search.
There are two schools of thought as to patterning: Some will use a medium like plastic or craft paper to wrap the enclosure and mark the seams etc as the old top/whatever had been done. Others will use an oversized piece of the material and then trim it down to the marks. Either way you lay a "cocoon' over the frame and go " okay I need a seam here, I need a dart there, a zipper here would be handy, ....."
Every boat cover job starts with a little analysis. If I'm replacing covers and the prior canvas maker was good, then I don't have to think much - just replicate what he/she did. I don't use the old canvas for a pattern, just as a guide as to where to put seams, etc. If you'll post a pic or two of your boat and some words about what kind of cover you'd like, we can help you design it and tell you how to get started.
June
I watched a canvas guy do a boat once. He did very nice work. He measured the boat with frame on. Sewed the pieces together at the rails of the frame, put one snap center for and aft and went from there marking what needed to be done. Looked so simple that I knew I would mess it up. I am a pretty good pattern maker but never tried a boat top. Some day I will. I have mine done by the canvas guy ;D
what im getting at is do you guys lay the canvas out . must take a big area on the floor . and for seams do you roll the saem with a 1/2 heam then sew the the 60 in seams . or back up to the other then sew 1 inch seam and then roll to 1/2 inch and sew flat ... how about the edge on bottom do you sew eny stiffener in that seam to hold eyelets for tiedowns .. jim thanks guys the basics are the hard parts to get ..
hiya
If i were you I'd start small, maybe like a bicycle or a cover for a generator
or something. 50% of the principals you need to learn can be learnt on
small stuff and you won't waste a fortune on materials.
then think about buying one of the DVDs from Northcoast or
marine canvas training.
MCTI have some samples on youtube, and you can rent
some of their dvds at smartflix i think if you are in the US.
http://smartflix.com/store/category/14/Boats
of course if you rented them you'd have to back them up for
safety :D
Everybody has their own way of doing things, and none of them are wrong. I say look at what your local competition does, or look at the perceived 'best' tops in your local marinas. Then 'emulate' what they do. Seems everyone want's their top to look like their neighbors anyway. Whether they use a 2" hem and centerfold binding, or waterstop/stopleak and doublefold sunbrella binding or what ever, customers will probably want what they've seen before. But really you'll just have to figure out what you like to do.
We build paper patterns then cut them up to lay on the roll on the table. No center seams for us. 1/2" seam always, topstitched. 2"piece/hem of sunbrella or waterstop with 7/8" centerfold binding at the snaps. If there's more than a few turnbuckles it's a 2" piece otherwise its waterstop.
Don't forget the sticky tape. Seam tape that is. I use a 2" poly webbing atound the edge on my cockpit covers for the reinforcement for snaps , grommets etc. 1/2" on the seams and topstitch as mentioned above. Covers i'll blanket and fit on the boat. Enclosures , like your skid steer , you'll want to make a pattern. I use canvex pattern material. Have also used clear shrink wrap to patttern. That sticky tape will help you hold the pattern material on and get a good fit for your pattern as you can easily re position the pattern material for best fit. Those videos will give you a great start and a lot of ideas.
It's great to see someone else get going. I have been doing it for 3 years now and every project gets better. If I could only give you a few gems of advice it would be to leave your runs longer than you need until the last moment. The sinking feeling you get when you are 2 inches to short...not good. When you take in material around a windshield it gets shorter at the seam, so again, leave it longer until it's sewed then trim it
good luck,
Ed
thanks guy this is what i needed, on the front door on the loader i want to put
plastic windows in it how heavy should i use . i want the door stiff can i layer a pc of plastic to make it solid . will install snaps around cage to install it and a set of hinges on fron door with a latch . jim
i woulr go no ledd then 40 gusge its agout as b thick on a toll as youl get
\
Quotei want the door stiff can i layer a pc of plastic to make it soli
Your bio is empty so don't know where you're at etc.. but if you get snow/ frost , I wouldn't double up the plastic. If you're old enough to remember "frost shields" on car windows ; remember they were air tight sealed. Layered plastic will be a condensation vault
I thinO he meant to stiffenen. Where there was no window in the cavas.
So yes you could.