Hello,
I'm still kind of new to many aspects of marine canvas. Maybe one of you could help me, please?
While looking at a canvas job last week, the customer showed me where a stud had been pulled out of the fiberglass and asked me to fix it. My first thought was that we need to get a fiberglass guy for that. When the canvas is done, a stud will go in the exact same place....which got me to thinking - is there some kind of goop I could stick in there, with a longer stud, that would hold well? Are there special studs with bigger threads or anything else made for this situation?
I don't want to try anything that is just going to pull out again, but if there was something like that, it would save me a ton of grief and the customer some bucks. What do you do when you come across this? So far, customers have gone to fiberglass guys - this was the first time anybody asked me to fix it.
Thanks for all your help!
Kathy
I find when a screw stud pulls out it leaves a 3/16"ish hole. I drill it out 3/16" and put a 3/16" poprivet in. Then take a punch (awl/nail) and punch out the mandrel left inside. Drill out the center of the 3/16" poprivet with an 1/8" bit, and rivet a new snap in.
PITA to be sure and it doesn't always work perfectly (break bits, big rivet spins, ect...) but it's an invisible repair and better than a drywall plug.
I'd try the #10 screws to see if they fit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300461059229&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=e9a9e3651280a0266e64dfc4ffd42ae9&rvr_id=136771626750&ua=%3F*F%3F&itemid=300461059229
If they're not big enough, I'd fill with white Marine Tex (available from West Marine or any marine supply store), wait a day, then drill out a new hole. If it's a spot that takes a LOT of tension or weight, fiberglass is the best bet. I've done a small amount of fiberglass repair, but nothing where the end result would be visible. That's one of those art forms like cabinetmaking (and furniture with show wood). You can buy fiberglass resin at Home Depot in the paint aisle.
June
June beat me to it. bt i will add try setting the screw stud in by hand before the marne tex sets :D
First try this, Bantam plug size 8 or 10 (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj147%2Fcustomtrans%2Fth_IMGP1093.jpg&hash=a289d762f23df051d2f4620ffcf9a378) (http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj147/customtrans/IMGP1093.jpg)
If that does't work buy 2 part marine epoxy from local hardware store such as Ace.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj147%2Fcustomtrans%2Fth_IMGP1094.jpg&hash=e9c398758954d69bcc1349b622e90e88) (http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj147/customtrans/IMGP1094.jpg)
Then using a mixer see picture, could also be popsicle stick sharpened to point, apply to inside of slightly expanded hole, kind of back filling, then fill hole, then apply to threads on stud, then screw stud into epoxied hole, tape over top to hold in, next day remove tape. All is good in the world.
Eric
P.S. this process will take about 5 minutes, not the epoxy setting part. Also using a #10 as June stated will also work, however requires having or shipping.
hiya
you could always use a hollow stud and a small nut and bolt with washers
this does depend on having access to the back of the bolt to tighten it.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh5.ggpht.com%2F_FyPuRIMYMk8%2FRmjEhJ5cJQI%2FAAAAAAAAC-k%2FTBTeiWeZeF8%2Fp15c.jpg&hash=4294614f72f3b4238e821193c3c96510)
Fragged beat me to it :'( but if you can reach up into the back side you can take a small block of plywood etc.. and mount the stud (regular stud/not screw in) with a #6 wood screw through the hole and into the wood.
I've got a box of studs I got by mistake that have threaded bolt built on just add a washer and nut. Just a fancier way to do as rich said.