I'm not sure how to ask this question and put all of this into words so please be patient with my explaination.
Whenever I sew up a bucket seat back similar type back my two materials do not match at the end of the radius. I add the marks to try to keep the material in correct alignment but it never seems to workout despite any pulling or pushing or bending.
The last seat I sewed up I used a very workable vinyl for the majority with a stiffer velvet type material on the seat insert. This seemed to even compound the error.
I have a Consew 206RB and have tried playing with the tension but this doesn't seem to help or I don't know how to make needed adjustments.
I'm having a difficult time explaining this so once again I'll apologize. If anyone can tell me what I'm doing wrong I'd appreciate it.
Could it be more do to pattern accuracy and less about machine set up? I always find good patterning equals way easier fitting when sewing.
First as Saddleman said are your patterns perfect? If so are you sewing from the center of the top? It is very easy to loose the seam allowance when sewing car seats make sure the seam allowance is equal on both pieces. If not they will end up at different places. IF this is a standard seat back that looks to have curved top corners, straight at the top try this on both pieces. Fold each in half and this will give you the center mark. Then on each radius fold in half and notch the center. Now you have good marks to go by. If you are using the original covers as patterns they may have stretched a bit. Remember this and allow for the discrepancy. I like to make my own marks (registration marks) as I know these will be correct. All this assumes your patterns are good.
The sewing machine probably doesn't have much to do with the issue. Sounds like operator error.
Good luck.
I run into this all the time. It's just an issue to deal with. Probably 90% of the time I start off at the center with the registration mark intact. By the time I get to the bottom edge it's off. Sometimes as much as a half or 3/4 inch. My solution hardly ever fails me.... cut off the excess. The pressure of the foot on the material is just squishing it at different degrees. It's not necessarily wrong tension or a problem with the machine. It's just material slop from having a couple layers of fabric (or vinyl or leather) and up to 1/2 inch of foam all rolled into the mess. Things are going to move and if you worry too much about it, you're going to overwork the panels until you have buckles and pulls and problems.
I do a ton of "daily repairs" where I take out one or two bad panels from a seat, pattern new and sew them back in. to make money, they have to be done in an hour or two from start to finish. I will mark a couple of the factory registration marks to keep me within tolerances. But when you're sewing new panels into an old cover, they won't all line up. It's better to let it fall naturally.
Now, if you get into a situation where it absolutely has to fall right (possibly sewing a pattern across several panels, etc.) I either get out my industrial stapler (purchsed at Office Depot) and staple the two panels together all down the seam. Just pull the staples out as you get near them with the machine foot. Or, tack sew the pieces in a few spots. This holds them in place, and you can putu a little tug on the bottom edge as you're sewing and it will come out even without any movement.
Thank you for the response. These are all excellent suggestions. Things that I had not considered.
First of all I do start sewing on one end and sew completely around the entire radius expecting it to come out perfectly. It doesn't. I had not considered sewing from the center top on each side. (if I understand the comment correctly)
Second. It could be pattern also. The center panel leaves some variance in it do to design and had not thought of checking it the suggested way.
Trimming off the excess is exactly what I ended up doing but felt I was "cheating" or not learning the craft correctly by doing that.
I have used the origional patterns as they look in very good condition and my pattern skills are very poor. I tried to pattern these seats but resorted back to the origional covers. I was very careful with the registration marks and my own markings to help.
I appreciate the suggestions. I think I've learned something today.
Thanks again.
;D ;D ;D
I've never done upholstery correctly. Just ask a few of the wannabe hobbyists that have stopped in my shop over the years, and the two upholstery shops in Springfield (30miles away) that have lost a lot of business over the years to me. But for the last 10 years I've gone from advertising out the wazoo to get business to running on pretty much word of mouth and reputation for the business. So I stand by the standpoint that you do what works best for you in your shop.
hiya
I have found with patterning that making the pattern to the shape of the foam
isn't really what you want to achieve even though you make your marks on the foam.
What i try to do is visualize a skin over the foam that will pull the foam into the shape
you want and not the other way round.
Get a p3 stapler and staple the seam allowance all the way round before you sew it
from center to edge and the same the other side.
remove the staples after.
One of the guys at Northcoast who made some superb work always staples his seams
on upholstery, and after seeing his work i wouldn't question it.
rich
Thanks again. All good advise.
I had never thought of staples. I'll try this on my next project.
+3 on the stapler.
Quote from: scarab29 on July 19, 2010, 12:38:31 pm
+3 on the stapler.
O good grief! :-X I to through thousands of staples a year holding stuff together till I can get it sewn. In Sunbrella they cause a LOT less damage than pins, though I use more in vinyl than canvas (always staple along the edges where the holes won't be visible - in Sunbrella it doesn't matter where). At the end of some projects I need to rake them off the floor before I sweep ::) Just always remember to pull them out when done to prevent rust spots.
June
I just use the small spring clips from Business Depot. They are easier to remove than staples but they are a little bit bulkier to handle when you are sewing a 7' cushion!
I have thought about buying a stapler to give it a try. The pistol grip style. Does anybody have a link to one that they like?
I have resisted using a stapler in fear that it would become a crutch for me to rely on rather than just dealing with lining up my marks as I go and just sew. After reading that you guys are using staples, and knowing what kind of work I've seen you turn out, I don't feel so bad about trying it now! ;D
Quote from: hdflame on July 20, 2010, 06:38:43 pm
I have resisted using a stapler in fear that it would become a crutch for me to rely on rather than just dealing with lining up my marks as I go and just sew.
My philosophy on this type of tool - it's just that. A tool of the trade. You use whatever is necessary to get the desired outcome. I'd never hire a cabinetmaker who "eyeballed" his cuts/corners. That's why they still make t-squares and rulers. I use whatever is at my disposal to produce quality goods.
June
Quote from: JuneC on July 20, 2010, 06:54:53 pm
Quote from: hdflame on July 20, 2010, 06:38:43 pm
I have resisted using a stapler in fear that it would become a crutch for me to rely on rather than just dealing with lining up my marks as I go and just sew.
My philosophy on this type of tool - it's just that. A tool of the trade. You use whatever is necessary to get the desired outcome. I'd never hire a cabinetmaker who "eyeballed" his cuts/corners. That's why they still make t-squares and rulers. I use whatever is at my disposal to produce quality goods.
June
June,
Do you have a favorite stapler?
hiya
do a search on ebay for a P3 stapler, last one i got was from the US,
they use a very thin staple that doesn't cause too much damage.
SP19-1/4 staples
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stanley-Bostitch-P3-IND-Plier-Stapler-3-Boxes-Staples-/350366002176?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519370ec00
| even use mine to staple darts in on canvas covers.
Rich
Quote from: hdflame on July 20, 2010, 06:59:48 pm
June,
Do you have a favorite stapler?
I have one of these...
http://www.officemax.com/office-supplies/staplers-hole-punches/staplers-handheld/product-ARS21686?cm_mmc=GBase-_-Office%20Supplies-_-Staplers%20and%20Hole%20Punches-_-Staplers%20-%20Handheld&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=20792894
and one of these...
http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/615267/Office-Depot-Plier-Style-Stapler-Chrome/
The first one is my absolute favorite. The 2nd one pinches on occasion as the outer plastic cover compresses.
June
Quote from: fragged8 on July 21, 2010, 03:17:07 pm
hiya
do a search on ebay for a P3 stapler, last one i got was from the US,
they use a very thin staple that doesn't cause too much damage.
SP19-1/4 staples
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stanley-Bostitch-P3-IND-Plier-Stapler-3-Boxes-Staples-/350366002176?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519370ec00
| even use mine to staple darts in on canvas covers.
Rich
Thanks for that link. I did some looking around and that was a pretty good deal. I bought it yesterday! The 3 boxes of staples cinched the deal. They should last me a while.