http://www.youtube.com/user/Cechaflo#p/u/2/UikRXbzLfHw
Good video, and I'm sure if I made one, someone could pick it apart, but here is my take;
This guy is correct, in that changing to a smaller OD pulley will slow you machine down. He is switching from about a 3-1/4" down to a 613 Amco style pulley with 2" OD. This is a industry standard pulley, and easy to locate, so no reason to recommend a machine shop for such a thing.
Also, he is using the incorrect belt; Hand wheel is smooth and not geared, pulley is smooth and not geared, and so should the belt be smooth and not geared. V belts common to industrial machines work off of friction from the sides, and with half of it cut away, and with the smaller diameter/smaller surface area pulley, you will have a hard time adjusting the pulley tension illustrated in the video so that it does not slip.
Correct belt is a 3L fractional size 3/8" width, 7/32" high V belt.
Also, with a three min. video, they should have noted that you have to readjust the treadle (you can see it's touching the bottom brace after adjustment of the motor, that may prevent the motor clutch arm from returning to neutral) as well as readjust the bobbin winder so it will again engage the belt when winding a bobbin properly.
I don't believe that is a geared belt. I don't know what it is called but I know that sometimes that is what they give you for a replacement at the auto parts store.
hiya
this comes up over and over, perhaps it could go into the "how to do that" section ?
Rich
I just installed a 2" pulley on my clutch motor and I'm having a problem finding Neutral
When the treadle is released the brake is on.
I have adjusted the rod to the treadle with no success, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Quote from: rookie on September 28, 2010, 06:00:33 pm
I just installed a 2" pulley on my clutch motor and I'm having a problem finding Neutral
When the treadle is released the brake is on.
I have adjusted the rod to the treadle with no success, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
This is the second time I am responding to this question (you posted this in another section).
I am pretty confident that I can assist you but I need more information.
I don't understand what you are asking about when you say neutral. Do you mean that you want more play in the clutch? This would enable you to push the treadle down slightly without engaging the motor, so that you can turn the handwheel by hand freely to position the needle.
Let me know.
Quote from: fragged8 on June 11, 2010, 07:52:26 am
hiya
this comes up over and over, perhaps it could go into the "how to do that" section ?
Rich
AGREE....
Here's a question for Greg I've never broke a belt on my
machines my oldest has a round leather belt that is hogringed to length do you sellthis material and is the v belts on my other machinesthe same as a auto belt
just wondering as I've never had to figure out where to get. A new belt
(knock wood).
I am mounting this speed reducer pulley on my Consew 255-RB3 to make it double duty for sewing thicker leather projects. My father had this setup on his machine. The pulley acts as a flywheel and it will sew slowly through anything. The reducer combined with the servo motor makes for a very versatile machine. It does help that I got the pulley setup from my father and I have a fabrication shop to make the motor stand.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZtpkOcnk-FI/Te2jwPR9R3I/AAAAAAAAF7s/55_6-mxlGLE/s800/IMG_4212.jpg) (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZtpkOcnk-FI/Te2jwPR9R3I/AAAAAAAAF7s/55_6-mxlGLE/s800/IMG_4212.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HCp--KERHA0/Te2jwxEUYgI/AAAAAAAAF7w/OkMWvAzJD2c/s800/IMG_4214.jpg) (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HCp--KERHA0/Te2jwxEUYgI/AAAAAAAAF7w/OkMWvAzJD2c/s800/IMG_4214.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vKWmbInjR4Y/Te2jxVbbFgI/AAAAAAAAF70/z4si3UQIpV8/s800/IMG_4216.jpg) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vKWmbInjR4Y/Te2jxVbbFgI/AAAAAAAAF70/z4si3UQIpV8/s800/IMG_4216.jpg)
That looks like a geared belt to me. One of the things we DYIers tend to focus on is what works, not what is the correct, or best, thing to do.
And sometimes what works today may give us problems down the road because it was not the correct or best thing to do.
In the video the first thing he does is takes off the kitty cat tail guard. I never put mine on, which is why I do not allow kitty cats in my studio.
Speaking of "picking videos apart": Sailrite has one on making an awning that I recently watched. The lady, sorry, but it was a lady, she added 41" + 1/8"+ 1/8" = 41 1/2". Also, I thought is was odd that she did not center the striped fabric when she cut out the main piece of fabric and sewed everything together. But then, thanks to the magic of video, the finished product showed the fabric nicely centered.
And thanks for posting the video andre1975.
gene
It might be a cogged vee belt which is designed among other things for better efficiency on small pulleys.
http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.com/files/Goodyear/GoodyearPowerTransCatalog/GoodyearPowerTransCatalog1.Page63.pdf
Two things;
Mike8560,
Round leather belting with hog ring is still very common setup for a lot of older machines, and yes, we sell the belting, rings, and tools for this.
Andre1975, belt is on the correct path, but one you have linked is a larger size 4L, most sewing machines use a 3L type, but 4L usually will work fine. Also, smooth belting, no teeth will work better IMO as the smooth belt has more side wall surface are to grab. Every one of my suppliers sells a smooth side wall belt, but none I know of havserrationsations.
Again, the moral here, as said, DIYer or not, if it works, that's all that matters.
You gotta admit!
The groovy Charlie Brown piano music is seriously funky ;D
Jim
220v 3/4hp 1725 rpm 3 phase motor.
Allen Bradley 3/4hp Variable frequency drive 110v input/3 phase 220v output.
Berringer Guitar volume control pedal.
The ultimate in sewing machine motor speed adjustment from a pedal and all the punch power you need to sew through several layers of materials. No motor running all the time.
Quote from: jsquail on June 07, 2011, 11:26:41 am
220v 3/4hp 1725 rpm 3 phase motor.
Allen Bradley 3/4hp Variable frequency drive 110v input/3 phase 220v output.
Berringer Guitar volume control pedal.
The ultimate in sewing machine motor speed adjustment from a pedal and all the punch power you need to sew through several layers of materials. No motor running all the time.
I can't find info. on this motor. Got a link where I can see what it is? It sound like a beast.
Quote from: Gregg @ Keystone Sewing on June 07, 2011, 06:26:42 pm
Quote from: jsquail on June 07, 2011, 11:26:41 am
220v 3/4hp 1725 rpm 3 phase motor.
Allen Bradley 3/4hp Variable frequency drive 110v input/3 phase 220v output.
Berringer Guitar volume control pedal.
The ultimate in sewing machine motor speed adjustment from a pedal and all the punch power you need to sew through several layers of materials. No motor running all the time.
I can't find info. on this motor. Got a link where I can see what it is? It sound like a beast.
Similar motor:
http://cgi.ebay.com/GOULD-1-2-HP-3-PHASE-AC-MOTOR-1725-RPM-MODEL-8161196-01-/360371874825?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e7d66c09#ht_2148wt_1139
When i was younger I worked in an automation control shop. went and looked at my setup again. its a 1/2 hp, my original clutched motor was 3/4. The 1/2 hp is slightly bigger than my 3/4 clutch motor was .
Here are pics of the motor and variable frequency drive(VFD). I didn't take a picture of the behringer pedal since I have attached the tables pedal to it. Not able to really see the behringer pedal. This setup allows me to effectively tune the motor from 50 hertz to 90 hertz which controls the top end speed of the motor. By running the motor at 50 hertz it slows the max rpm by about 8%. By running the motor at 90 hertz it adds approximately 50% to the top speed of the motor. I lose no torque or punch power(this also has a lot to do with the 3 phase motor too).
The VFD also allows me to have the motor ramp up to speed over a specific amount of time (I hated the clutch motor for just this reason cause it was 5 billion RPM or nothing). So the foot pedal is nothing more than a large potentiometer. It maps speed to how far you push the pedal, much like the gas pedal in your car. The more you push the faster it goes, as you release it slows down. I can also set the ramp speed to speed up based on the amount of pedal is pushed.
Lastly, I have the VFD setup to instantly stop the motor when the pedal returns to its "home" position. No matter how fast I go, if I take my foot off the pedal, it stops, dead. However, if i slowly back of the motor will slowly back off.
Once i got this thing setup, oh so beautiful. no more frustrating sewing. No more top fuel funny car sewing machine antics. The only pain to the whole thing was the mounting of the motor. Once i got it mounted and aligned the rest was easy peasy.
If i want to go back to that old sewing machine clutch feel with my setup all i need do is set the ramp up speed to 0 seconds and turn the frequency up to 90 hertz and "viola" and its back to top fuel funny car sewing!
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1139.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn549%2FG_Canvas%2Fef93ed1d.jpg&hash=250684ca01887a3cc2e34a78f465bca5)
http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n549/G_Canvas/ef93ed1d.jpg
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1139.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn549%2FG_Canvas%2F21f9a66b.jpg&hash=2e297247707e6289438bf24ab26bc8ee)
http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n549/G_Canvas/21f9a66b.jpg
Foot Pedal can be found here:
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/FCV100.aspx
I didn't just want to slow down my sewing machine. I wanted to be able to control it without having to concentrate on what my machine was going to do when i pushed the pedal. Now i just concentrate on the material that I'm sewing.
Holy cow :o Never thought I'd see anyone use an Allen Bradley to control their sewing machine. You write your own ladder logic? Or do they use easier languages like Basic these days? I'm always amazed at the breadth of talents on this board.
June
its all in the VFD book. it was a pretty simple set up too.
jsquail,
For the motor, I've seen motor mounts with belt tensioner, but your setup is VERY nice.
Always cool to see what people come up withtheirhier own.
My Dad can build almost anything using sewing machine parts, it's funny to see things around my parents house built or repaired with sewing part components!
Woodworkers and machine shop guys I'm sure are no exception, as is the case here.
Just so some people know, there are greater choices of sub $200 available today more now than ever, but they are not the end all be of sewing. There are, at a price, better options.
Thanks Gregg. The main reason i put it together like this is because i knew how to sew, but i couldn't waste time learning a machine while screwing up customers products and having "do-overs". Its just not cost effective. It has saved me countless "do-overs" over the standard clutch motor. Had i not know about the VFD's and 3 phase motors, the DC servo motor would have been my next choice. Not quite as "tuneable" ads what I have but it would have made a huge difference over the standard clutch motor. I put my motor setup together for about twice the price of a servo motor.