Hi everyone. In a pickle here.
I am trying to do this seat. On the left side of the boxing, I get puckers. I tried more/less padding and that didn't work. When I sew, I start in the middle and do one side, then the other. That's the only thing I think is causing this issue since it's happened to me before.
http://gdurl.com/u0wP
Here's what the chair looked like before
http://gdurl.com/sclh
________
Couple more things:
First, I really don't need to start sewing in the center for this type of seat cover. So tomorrow I will sew starting at one end and go all the way through. That should help since it won't be slightly different tension for the bobbin thread, causing puckers.
Then, from what I can see the welt is sewn such that it gets tighter towards the back of the seat. That way when it is upholstered the front boxing can remain tight all the way around the front corners. I will do my best to slightly arc the boxing for the same purpose.
That's all I can figure out for now. Any help appreciated.
65,
Try sewing the welt on the boxing first. Or see all three pieces at once. It looks like your machine is out of adjustment for this task.
I would hope that when you pull everything tight and staple down it will look much better.
When you're sewing do everything you can to keep the pieces aligned, and the stitches on track.
SA
Here's the situation now:
http://gdurl.com/3Xrk7
http://gdurl.com/VZ8h
Happy with it but still not sure what to do about those front corners.
The corners look like they need to be pulled down a bit more.
Paul - agreed.
I started out the seat with 2" HR foam. This is with 1/2" then cotton.
Now I think it needs 1" plus cotton. I sat on it and it's not that comfy. It has zig zags.
Originally it only had cotton. To me it's more of an artistic piece than a true sitting chair. Maybe something you'd sit on the edge if you were having a quick conversation with someone.
What kind of padding would you guys use?
I think I would have put a layer of rubberized hair pad of the burlap then 2" of foam and a layer of cotton. The hair pad will hide the feel of the springs better than foam. You want the seat to be around 18-19" high, that's a good guide for filling thickness.
That can be a difficult chair to do, or at least for me there was a big learning curve. I learned to measure the height of the welt cord from the floor before I take off the old leather. That way I know how far to pull down the new cover. If you are adding additional padding then be sure to compensate for this.
On your first pictures it looked like you needed to cut a bit more relief in the top panel at the back so the entire seat cover could be pulled back just a bit more. Is that what you did?
Also it looked like you might have a bit of gathering of the leather side panel. Did you sew the welt cord on top of that side panel?
Another thing I found is to slightly taper the front corners of the top panel. This seems to keep that "air space" from occurring on these corners.
I love that blue color.
gene
It has been a steep learning curve.
Gene, when you say taper the corner, specifically what do you mean? Like 3 stitches instead of one? The front edge is slightly arced.
Then, because the of the crown, I am confused about how to make the corners hug the frame tightly. If I pull them first, then the front has to much slack. And vice-versa.
I'm going to switch out the padding and see how that works.
You are looking better.
Regarding your interest in the two front corners: Can you take a picture of the cushion top panel that
would reveal the original corner curvature?
You do well with the camera, I am sure you can. Either hang the original material vertically and do a
picture from 90 degrees or lay the original material on flat on a floor/table and do a photo looking straight
down. Which ever you think would best to reveal the original corner cut/sew shape.
Like I said; Your not looking too badly now.
Doyle
Tapered corner. https://sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/quick-tip-how-tapered-corners-make-square-pillows
Picture #7 on the above link shows the small amount of fabric that is cut off. Other's may not do this but I've found whenever a fabric panel is not going to be flat this can help it look a bit less like the corner is sticking out too much.
On another note I was asking if you had to cut the back of the top panel some more to allow the entire cover to slide back just a bit more to help make those front corners snug. The first pictures you showed looked like this might be what you would need to do. There have been a few times when I cut too much and I had to resew the entire cover with a new top panel.
As Doyle said, it is starting to look like you're getting there.
A memory from the past: When I started upholstering I bought a set of DVDs from Merv Knutson, a retired upholsterer probably in his late 70's at the time. He has since gone to that great big sewing machine in the sky. At one point in the video he's sewing a small box cushion cover that is giving him a bit of trouble, and he says, "I think I'm winning." I often say that to myself when I'm spending a lot more time on something than I would like.
gene
Had to set this one aside for a bit.
Here's what I came up with. Got into a pickle, the seat has dense felt, then cotton, then dacron.
http://gdurl.com/m-QF
Need some advice here. I'm ready to put the outside back on. The transition from the backrest to the seat isn't the smoothest. I have both ply-grip and the other straight tack strip.
What would be best here? Ply grip all the way or tack strip?
This chair was from the 50s so they used cardboard strip and tacks.
http://gdurl.com/WF-6/
http://gdurl.com/IEib
Why do you have all that dacron around the edge like that? Try to kill all filling at the edge. A nice sharp clean edge is what I like. No bulk. I know many giys will rung the filling around the edge. It gets my goat LOL. You will be best with metal tack strip when closing. But kill the dacron, the welt cord on the band and as much vinyl as you can without showing any raw. You can kill a lot of bulk and it will lay flatter.
And to add to Paul's comment. I've taken apart and repaired plenty of tack strip edges that failed because the spike could not be driven deep enough into the wood and did not hold. I do not know why some folks like to wrap the padding around the edge but have seen it plenty of times.
Using tack strip is a skill. I've met upholsterers who have never used it. In its place they use ply grip. Once mastered tack strip is a true time saver and makes the overall job look neater.
The moment of truth for me with tack strip is when i have one side hammered down and i have to calculate the fold over to nail in the right place matching the other side and still pull somewhat to take out the last wrinkle in the center. The thought of something going wrong at that point when you're probably at the end of your fabric - last piece to put on -
I agree 100 percent it just looks so much better a super straight edge fastened down tightly.
SA
Good comments on applying tack strips.
The installation begins when the back panel is attached to the top - side to side. Too much tension
can lead to frustration when applying those side metal tack strips.
Plus, aligning the panel being installed at the top center and bottom center - again watch the tension.
I have had some success when working with problems by avoiding too much tension. I will get the
panel attached at the top with this kind of detail and then fold the panel down watching - the too much
tension problem - then smooth the back panel down with the hand - (basting) with a tack hammer can help getting a feel of what is best to be done. Observing the fabric grain, can contribute to a nice looking back panel. It is easy to start the installation with too much tension "down
and horizontally" either or both can lead to issues.
True - avoid getting the padding in contact with the roll up process of the tack strip. Needless to say,
insure the padding is even thickness also. Even lining the area before the process starts can help,
If a difficult time seems to be coming, I will start both tack strips (but not driven tight) to get a preview
before seating them.
Gotta train the material to "lay" before relying too much on tension.
You guys are good, makes interesting work!
Shows you enjoy your work.
Enjoy,
Doyle
1. I promise to kill the dacron at the edge.
2. How exactly do you do that top corner? I've been practicing on a piece of wood. I have used tack strip before and I like it. Should I start the strip a little lower so I can notch the corner and staple it?
I run the cardboard tackstrip all the way into the top corner. Then snip the fabric towards the corner stopping maybe 1/16" before the edge so the flap will some out so I can attach the metal strip all the way to the top. It is a bit tricky to turn the strip but a regulator will help. Then align and hammer it home. The trick here is eliminate as much bulk as possible so the nail at the top of the metal strip will stay put. Figuring where to put the stip is pretty simple lay it on the edge tacks facing you and the inside edge is where it will end up when you spin it over after the fabric is on. Slack gets taken out using your trained eye on how much to pull the fabric if any over the nails before popping the nail through. Most times I will get the top nail in place move to the bottom with the strip where is needs to be and pull the fabric down and pop the bottom nail through then just fill in from top to bottom. Turn and hammer home. This takes practice so dont think it will happen right every time for awhile. Another trick is to use a leather mallet and one sharp blow on each nail will set it pretty much home and do very little damage to the fabric, vinyl, or leather with no need to use the plastic sleeves. I do use them on occasion but never use to.
I got my first top corner done, it's not perfect but he's what it looks like
http://gdurl.com/f2fS
65 you can send that out like that. Read my last post and run the cardboard all the way over to the edge and fold that corner properly so you dont see the folded leather. If you can't get this right talk them into nails. Sorry but that just doesn't look good.
I agree paul. I read & reread your post. But obviously didn't understand.
I did run the carboard over.
In your last picture you could not have run the cardboard all the way to the edge. If you had you wouldn't be able to fold the leather like that. It is a little tricky to fold in in place but it is possible and helpful to use a regulator to help it fold in place.
There have been times when I added welt cord around the outside back when it wasn't there initially and it was OK with the customer. Welt cord seems to help sometimes with difficult fabrics, vinyls, and leathers.
gene
Paul I unuderstand what you mean now. I sometimes have trouble overthinking things.
Will post photo when I'm done.
Step 1: poke the tack nail through your finger (ow)
Step 2: do a better job
https://gdurl.com/b-RD
the transition is from back the seat is proving tricky, and leaving me with wrinkles that i'm less than happy about.
I believe you need to pull the outside back tighter side to side. When poking the tackstrip nails through the fabric I do the top one first. Next, before I poke anymore I go to the bottom nail. Stretch the fabric slightly toward the bottom and slightly to the side. (I'm assuming you have the fabric base tacked to the bottom of the frame). Then poke that bottom nail through the fabric. Next, starting at the top I poke the rest of the nails. They should pretty much fall in line. Slight adjustments may be necessary. When you flip that tackstrip over pause for a moment and make sure everything looks right before you start nailing them to the frame.
https://gdurl.com/8loJ
This business isn't as easy as it looks huh 65. Looks much better.
Heck no Paul.
I can see where the nails didn't go in fully. I don't think there's any risk of it coming apart. But I can't try to hammer it any more. In a couple spots the leather did get some damage. Very small but still irks me.
65,
Leather adds another issue to Upholstery and that is thickness. I sometimes will try to explain to the client about this and ask if they would like nail trim on these areas. This way you can use 3/4" shank nails in the thick areas and they won't loosen up. But it is what it is. You will find ways to cutout the bulk of thickness as time goes on. Keep that in the back of your mind and when you have many thicknesses like that try and figure ways to cut as much away as possible. Even with some fabrics the bulk builds up like that.
True that Paul. In this case I found the leather to be stretchy and workable, some of the best I've come by. It is reputable brand.
For me it's about skill - b/c once the hole is made, there's no going back.
Also, would you have trimmed under the tackstrip so the nail has nothing to go thru but wood?
For leather and a corner like that I would trip as much as I possibly could everywhere I could as long as it didn't show. You can trim pretty close with leather and vinyl and it won't fray.