Hi Folks, I got a little problem with my singer 111w153.
For example, when I'm sewing a vinyl car seat backed with foam and I come to a seem on one side my material likes to halt at the foot, almost like it is to thick to go under the foot and if I don't catch it, it will sit in place and the needle will just destroy the vinyl and I have to start with a new piece. My timing and stitches are perfect.
Any idea what might be going on?
Thanks,
Tim
Have you loosened the presser foot tension all the way?
Do you have a knee lift? If so, can you nudge it a little as you go over the hump?
I'm just DIY, and professionals on the Web site probably have better diagnosis. This might not be a problem with just your machine. I had a Singer 111W155 and even with my current machine, climbing over seams can be a problem. You might want to try a jean-a-ma-jig (aka: hump jumper or presser foot spacer that comes in various thicknesses). I have used them to climb-over and climb-off seams.
You can find a jean-a-ma-jig on Amazon or at JoAnn.
Depending on the machine, there might be alternative. On my Juki, it is possible to adjust the ability to climb over a seam, but I'm after a quick search, I haven't found the details. I think I recall that there is also a disadvantage, but I don't recall what that was. If you are interested, I could try further.
A 111w is for thinner materials. Sofa's idea is about as good as it gets. Just bump the foot lift a bit when running over the seams.
I'm with 'Doc---back off the presser foot tension. If your machine has a tendency to move one layer of fabric faster than the other you know you have too much tension as well. Over the years I have used half a dozen 111W155's or their Consew counterparts and have seen a big difference in how the foot lift height is adjusted as well. I'm talking like 3/16" from lowest to highest. Adjusting it is a bit of a pain in that you have to match feed dog motion to height to some other thing that I'd have to re-read the service manual on, but it is doable. Given a choice I'd rather farm that out to a pro---but it is DIY - doable.
The other thing you want to do is minimize the "step" she has to go over. Fold one salvage edge north and the other one south before you have to cross it, even if that requires clipping the salvage. If you see a lump you have to cross, flatten it with a hammer , etc...
You could also make a ramp like Tejas was talking about out of cardboard tacking strips.
Sofadoc, I will loosen the tension on the foot, it is pretty tight. I do have a knee lift and that is what I recently started bumping it but I just don't like doing that. Thanks for the info on the ramp Tejas, I will be looking on amazon to get the ramp to try it out. I am always curious to see what's out there, Thanks for the tip Darren, I have had a problem with one layer stretching more than the other. These tips will sure help a lot, thanks so much for the help!!!
I have the service manual for this machine, I don't mean to sound over confident, but I set my own timing and am very confident in making adjustments and repairs, but I am also still learning about the machines and how they work, but once I have that understanding I will repair anything. I plan on repairing my brother 1250D embroidery machine next.
Minuph, You mentioned the singer I have is not for very thick materials. What would be a good machine with reverse? I know the juki's are good, but I just don't know model numbers. I will mostly be doing automotive and marine, but will do furniture too as I want to replace my current job by with upholstery work.
Thanks, Tim
There are many machines. Consew,Juki, etc
Tim, you might want to post your question on the leather sewing machines forum. There seem to more mechanical discussions there. No problem your question is not about sewing leather.
http://leatherworker.net/forum/ (http://leatherworker.net/forum/)
Try the following in google to get an idea:
singer 111w153 site:leatherworker.net
Thanks Tejas, I will check that out.
Sharthewealth,
Sorry I was so short in answering earlier. I was pretty busy.
The Consew 206RB models are very reliable, I have a 205RB (lesser cost) that has treated me well. Phaf is a top machine 145 is the model I was used to and it was a work horse. There are so many models to consider. I have never owned a Juki but they are highly liked. I guess it will depend on your budget and weather you go new or used. If you can fins a good well maintained machine you can save a lot of money. Others here should chime in with makes and models they like. I'm astonished they haven't already.
My father always wanted a 111w for light weight work but never got one. We used the pfaf for everything. It wasn't designed for lightweight and it was a struggle working with it on fabrics like chintz, polished cotton etc. Two machines in a shop is ideal. Another turnoff for me to look for the 111w is the lack of reverse. Both my seamstresses are "use to" reverse as am I, so working without it would be a challenge.
Tanks for the info Paul, I will be looking for a good used one. I would definitely like to have reverse too.
My Bernina sewing machine, that I absolutely adore, comes with this cute little accessory for sewing seams of varying thickness. It has 3 plastic "sticks" that swivel. You stop before getting to a thick seam (jeans, coats, etc) and put 1-3 of these "sticks so that your pressure foot is the same height (approximately) as the seam. Prevents the motor from working in overdrive and gives a nice smooth seam. Tack strip could easily be used to replicate this nifty little gadget as previously suggested. This thing is absolutely slick as could be and one of my favorite accessories.
I used it on my upholstery machine with a very thick seam and it worked like a charm.
Virginia
Quote from: Virgs Sew n Sew on January 24, 2016, 10:18:22 am
cute little accessory for sewing seams of varying thickness.
The varying thickness spacers that Virginia mentioned might be similar to the presser foot spacers mentioned in the earlier post. I think that the jean-a-ma-jig comes in only one thickness.
http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/presser+foot+spacers.do (http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/presser+foot+spacers.do)
light foot on my 111w sews over thick seams fine .
Simply a couple comments regarding the Singer 111W series:
I have used 111W155 series for anything that had upholstery on it (cloth, vinyl, leather, and ?) and it compares to a Pfaff in performance. BTW, I have two Pfaff industrials (1245 and 545) to compare to. The Pfaff is very strong but my two points are: the 111W155 does an outstanding job with thicker fabrics as well as the Pfaff. Last, but not least, the 111W156 is equipped with reverse. As a note, a local tech showed me a 111W155 that he added the reverse feature to - which in general makes it equivalent to the 111W156.
For some non leather/vinyl materials the 31-15 Singer works a little better with thinner materials (slips, curtains, some decorator pillows, and on and on) because the walking foot is merely too heavy duty.
My favor for extensive sewing is the Pfaff (in my line up) when the big bobbin makes a difference.
For marine, I add a long arm Juki with big bobbin/reverse, of course - which facilitates larger pieces of fabric , example marine work.
Machines are sometimes need a good checkup by a very good tech!
Sewers often favor what they are most familiar with = as expected.
Doyle
The Consew 206rb is the gold standard of all around upholstery work. I am not saying that Pfaffs are not good as they are the cadillac's, but attachments and parts are ultra expensive. The Consew parts and attachments are plentiful and ultra cheap. You can find hundreds of different parts and attachments on E-Bay.
The Juki's are a awesome as well and if you can find a Japanese made 563 you will have an awesome machine that will outlive you. The 206rb's and the Juki 563's will do anything you will ever need for any type of upholstery work. Juki parts are all cheap and plentiful as well. The 563 was replaced with a newer model and it also is an awesome machine. Someone will have the new model number and post it I am sure.
I thought I wouldn't be real busy and wanted a machine that cost around $ 1,200 ( complete with table and motor ) and could do any upholstery work I needed from it. I picked up a new Chandler 406rb which is a direct copy of the Consew. As a matter of fact one brother of a family owns Chandler and the other brother owns Consew and they hate each other with a passion. They wont even speak to each other at trade shows. :)
Fast forward. My business exploded and here I had this Chandler that was going to be put into continuous and heavy production mode. Long story short, I still have the Chandler and it still sews awesome and I have had no problems. I would never consider selling it. The beauty is that any part made for the Consew 406 will fit the Chandler. The feet will also interchange on a Chandler, Consew and Juki. Not so with the German machines which is why I stayed clear of them. Their parts are specific and like all German things they charge alot for parts/attachments.
The one benefit of the Juki's is that they are all big bobbin machines and top loaders. The Chandler and Consews are bottom loaders. What is the difference ? The top loaders can be a real pain in the ass. They are very touchy and will jam easily. The bottom loaders could careless and I have only had one jam in the years I have had the Chandler. The bottom loaders can run out of bobbin thread and you simply stop, remove the empty bobbin and throw in a new one and back stitch twice and keep going. No moving the fabric, cutting thread, etc.
I can tell you whatever machine you buy make sure it is a compound feed ( needle/walking foot ).
In regards to Chandler, I just bought a new long arm a year ago and it performs as well as my Chandler 406. The price between them and a Consew can be $ 800 or more.
Bob Kovar, a member here owns Toledo Sewing Machine Co. I buy all my machines from him and I have bought a slew of them. He assembles them, sews them off, makes adjustments and then ships them to me down here in FL. Be VERY careful of who you buy from. Finding a bargain or trying to save a $ 100 will end up costing you some major headaches if your buying from a drop shipper. These guys simply sell machines and never see them or touch them. You want a machine that has been touched by a technician, adjusted and sewn off. All new machines are famous for coming out of the box out of adjustment and some may have a broken part.
Chris