Hello Everyone
I wanted to start a Shop Table topic in attempt to bring some finer points from your varied experiences with the particular work you produce.
First the searches here can be a great source for myself and many others looking for specifics on materials and such, I would appreciate some input on certain sizes and any benefit you have needed in these descriptions.
I have already benefited from your professional tips and enjoyed some of your laughter also, so this can be used forward too many in a search.
I don't mean to get long winded but as you might recall I have been working on some new shop tables, with again great help and good search through the postings. Its screachin hot outside welding table structure, but I have fabricated two small sections of 6'x8'x3' with one having a machine and operator cutout, these have a 3.5" adjustable leg at each 4" caster and finally primed and painted waiting for some choices yet to work out top and lower level surface.
I did make a width change from my initial design to a slim 6' width this plan will have a 2' drop down to the far left side and hopeful to work ok as its a must for this work room giving a 3-4' wide path around when needed.
The plan for today is start welding on a finishing end section and will/has to be 6x6 and also bolts to the existing structures, I kinda like a decent pathway and clear so this smaller part is why in planning.
To get on with the bigger reason of the post, I had always planned another shop table and to push it against the newly built one in a future setting.
Because of present room length and the need to keep a roughly 14x12' area with wide door clear to bring stuff in and out or just floor work area an adjacent area will be used instead with a change up in machine to table setting "just in consideration".
In all the hot air babbling the adjacent room has another 14x12' rough measure with a small walk out this is going to have the table, the "new change mind you" is having the 8' length parallel to machine so a 6' left of needle, this thought has a 6' table depth mind ya so that is the dilemma. Just how does the operator area 3'x3' and machine table 2'x4' get used in the proposed design 1' in front of machine and say 3' to operator side/behind sew table.
This question I wanted to run by you all in this fine group for any pros, cons, laughs n cackles by all means :)
Good Friday
Welding steel together for work tables in a sewing shop or wood shop may be uncommon. Personally I like wood structure. It's easy to make - alter if necessary - add on to - and re-laminate when the time comes. Maybe consider a wood table along with the steel ones.
Thanks for the post - it is important to see how others approach their work space - my table legs are made of 2 x 4 + 4 x 4 lumber. One top is particle board for fabric layout and cutting with storage underneath ..... and the other table is butcher block style maple boards glued together side by side for woodworking... with vises on the side and end
Regards,
SA
also what are you sewing with me sewing larger boat covers and tops and chriss sewing long rv awnings im sure our table needs are different then dennis or pauls doing furniture upholstery.
Most of my upholstery work is done onsite, so my work-table is normally the floor where it sits.
I'll let Gene pipe in as he as a very high work table that helps avoid chronic back pain.
However, I do a lot of woodwork and wood finishing in the shop.
1. Think first of adapting a "work triangle" a la "kitchen work triangle" viz:
The kitchen work triangle principle is used by kitchen designers and architects when designing residential kitchens:
No leg of the triangle should be less than 4 feet (1.2 m) or more than 9 feet (2.7 m).
The sum of all three sides of the triangle should be between 13 feet (4.0 m) and 26 feet (7.9 m).
Cabinets or other obstacles should not intersect any leg of the triangle by more than 12 inches (30 cm).
If possible, there should be no major traffic flow through the triangle.
A full-height obstacle, such as a tall cabinet, should not come between any two points of the triangle.
You should adapt this philosophy to your various work tasks. Perhaps group the following into separate "triangles" with the three areas you use for each.
- Stripping
- Cutting and sewing
- Assembly and stapling
2 Pay attention to work height
Lower for more muscle power operations, mid height for power tool operations, and higher for detail operations. A good starging point would be low=crotch height, medium = navel height, high = chest high. I have build some boxes from plywood ripped to roughly 1x4, it measures 24, 30, and 36 inches on the sides. I can rotate it to the height I want to work and put my project on it. Another jig is a sheet of plywood ripped in half. On each half, I have a black pipe floor flange with 1.5" pipe on the bottom and 1.25" pipe on the top (several different lengths of bottom pipe) This gives me a giant turntable that I can rotate around with a little push.
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3. In a small shop, mobilize on casters.
Move things in and out as you need them, especially infrequenly used fixtures/tools.
4. Look at Lean Manufacturing Principles
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_manufacturing
While things like Just-In-Time don't make a lot of sense if you have to order staples every week for a small shop, a lot of them do. One of my favorites to think about is "muda" (non value adding work), for example moving pieces all around to make room for another operation or project.
Mike has a very good question as it depends on what your doing on the table. Doing awnings, canvas work is much different than standard furniture upholstery cutting and sewing.
When I build the last table for the shop I kicked around putting the sewing machine in the table but ended up ditching the idea because we don't sew huge things often. So I ended up with a 70" x 12' table. I built it out of wood because that's me. 2x4 framing with joists on 16" centers. One end it tied to a ledger against the wall so there are two sets of legs. Filled the seams of the top with wood filler and gave it a coat of primer and two top coats of floor paint. It is working well. Under it I put plywood for storage of fabrics. The seamstress loves it and two people can work on it when the need arises.
The sewing machines are in an adjoining room.
Thanks you all, believe it as this or Your Post will help many as countless hours are searched for great information as you share. This Im just going to respond a bit to your post to thank ya maybe a bit long winded, uhm.
Anyway like many of dogs I trained though they acted correctly here im not, Im taking a last comment for fun of it.
Keith the true to life mention (muda) you to thought that was just me, seems the story of my careers move something just a bit so as to get on another task, waiting for parts or something? that always mm ya.
Movin on
Steve great point in the wood tables especially in some marine canvas repair shops I seen, really cool setups of business I should work one up soon. Though Steel is uncommon it musta been the racers edge that had me all along. So some hog rings and steel are in the blood a bit I guess yet some formal training at North Coast Canvas in Janurary 2014 keeps me focused.
I need more space for sure as wood working tools stored everywhere, I think a butcher block work bench has my eye for mounting a recent button press find and some how incorporating a stainless/aluminum tubing trim area, you must have that mind reader ability thing. I think I seen the water ripple in my glass to did you drop something. haha ; )
Hey Mike I agree the canvas yourself, June, Chris, and so many others here we work with has a need for more table area, Where Paul and Dennis have some bigger tables I seen, I think they use them mostly for cutting as a higher percentage. I have seen many of video of experienced persons as all of you flipping yardage around the table like nothing, I am not small but how that's done baffels me at this stage.
The post of shop tables you have put up is of great help and the extra work posting to show us in the need to or want to know is appreciated, "big time" I need to make an effort to work harder on a photo site of sorts as all the pics help.
Keith that triangle idea is pretty cool, glad you brought that up it makes one re-think efficiency at a higher level with their already good ideas.
Excellent work box man with your craftsmanship im sure you could set a dozer on it haha, but with the different measure of its length and width as you said it is a (smoking hot idea) for sure.
For the mention on back ache and related table ergonomics, believe me I totally understand as I have spent vacations laying flat of my back (not being able to move hardly), try seeing that and understanding its worth it. I have 3 different years with many other years of pain back ache/nerve pretzel walking ""sucs"" (I mean it), I feel lucky though as no welded or pinned disc as some family and friends.
Paul I am really concerned with marine canvas stuff in a startup way not my norm but I am older now and its a bit easier for myself to stick to the kiss program for now.
I looked at your shop posting many a time and learning from pics there and different works everyone talks about on here its a great help thanks .
Table height searching and searching I was given and used many of time a building standards book finding it a good read it and the many post at different forum sites a cut table height seem to run high or definitely higher than a sew table and some found making all theirs a same level. I decided at a 38" instead of present 34 this if wanted can change as that's built in my table but the combination of cut table into my particular sew table is going to be tried, I understand this is totally dependent on ones height primarily as I have heard it in building different cabinets here in my own family we run 5'11 all 4 girls n me though I did 6'when I had hair, helmet, hat as I do have a rep to protect. (hope they throw some more mustard pac downstairs with the crackers.)
Thanks for your contributions so far everyone
I patterned some of my tables off Mike's. His use of tables is nearly identical to mine. The last set of tables I built ( 8 x 16 ) are all modular because I know the day will come when I will have to move them to a new shop.
They are all made of 2x4's with storage shelves on the bottom and a melamine surface on the top.
The differences between my tables and Mikes is that he likes to have the table top much closer to his left side then I do. I also have a cutting edge inserted into one edge. This is aluminum and I can use a hot knife or razor cutter on it. Saves the table top surface from damage.
Chris
Chris thanks I like the idea of modular also, a brother of mine mentioned a couple times the exact point I guess we have moved each others equipment enough that a casual mention was in order.
I remember when you were working thru the aluminum for the cutting tool idea at the time it seemed great and a good read, though I didn't have a hot knife at the time i kept the tip, a super idea now.
Having seen many post where people have used a wheel of some sort to help moving tables around shops mounted on wood and metal structures alike with some great tips on here about that exact mention, to think all I need now is a gear box from the machine to drive such a contraption ?hmm.
I remember seeing Mikes table setup and at this time I need to be totally in front of the needle might be able to move over to the right later down the road though and will try. I cannot use my clutch pedal foot without a gas pedal but I can see some customizing.
Good days there
Hey Chris I got a question and you can help I'm sure. In the material bundles you work with what do you think is a realistic need in measurement to your left and really behind say the machine table, now if I had a giant room I would not ask but, in any case if you have 3 sections of rolled goods sewed together which I think you have many times, so can you give a shout with some information. Appreciate it
Max:
I am not sure if I understand what your asking. But our goods are all 47 or 60 ". Rarely do we work with 60" acrylic but all of our vinyl is 60 ". When I built these new tables I screwed up and left too much gap on my left side. My next set of tables will have a 12 " off set and be more like Mike's. In other words the needle will be 12 " from the left side edge of the table.
Mike is one of the few on here who can sew with very little left side offset. I am going to guess Mike learned to sew this way back when he got started and has become a habit since. I on the other hand learned with a large left side offset and have a difficult time sitting and sewing to the right of the machine. But because of the large goods we are sewing I need to increase the offset like Mike does.
To be honest, Mike's offset is the preferred way to go if you can adapt to sewing off center. Because him and I sew alot of 47 and 60 inch goods we need as little gap as possible between our left side and the table. It can be difficult controlling the fabric with a big gap on your left side. I will be fixing mine someday as I have too much gap and get closer to Mike's offset.
Mike also runs alot of table behind him as well which is a huge benefit. So, I prefer the modular setup of the tables with the framework no more then 4 ft but next time will go the same route as Mike when it comes to offset on the left side and extra space behind me.
In regards to table height, mine are 32 " tall. I am 5'10" so 32 " works perfect for me. Mike is I believe 6'5" tall and his brother John I believe is 6'8". They need more table height in order to work comfortably while cutting. Mike can tell you how tall his tables are as I forgot.
Table height is a big concern. My first table was 28 " tall and it was a back breaker. I much prefer the 32 " height. That extra 4 inches made a huge difference in comfort. It is now perfect for my height. I use extra tall chairs that I ordered through Amazon at the machine and have the machines adjusted up on their stands.
Chris
Thanks Chris
I agree with its how you start out behind a machine and no doubt it has a couple benefits with the edge close to the needle. I think Mike might be a southpaw and this helps his decision with the fact that many in the north east shops made sails so more common to see the efficiency of it, also a plus is ability to have rolled goods behind you this is super but I cannot do just yet.
I haven't cut any wood yet for the tops but my machines are within an inch of each other from needle to there k-table left edge so Im planning a 9.5" from the needle and will consider any suggestions, though I only gave myself 2" more available room from the angle iron frame as I made the extra 2" wood top lip around all the outer edges.
The different chairs or the couple old drafting stools from the garage I move around have good effect really but even at this time at 34" height my auto lift pc desk chairs aren't or don't lift high enough so may have to bust out another franklin on a used one, also one new one from staples is thin and barely enough side room as it has arm rest to. Another old one an easily more executive chair type is to wide for the space as I set in front of needle now anyway.
I didn't mention it well but I have two tables in making, the 1st table with my main module 6' wide with the cutout for 4'wide machine table your all familiar with is at the front end, it also has a 3' square for the operator just behind.
Now this area directly behind me to the edge leaves 40" is in question for different types of fabrication of textiles n leathers what have ya. what is useable and more importantly "needed" to everyone?
Presently there is 4' of table to the left of the needle, I would like to build in a lift/drop extension on this far left side. Otherwise all rolled goods will have to be from the front station 14' ahead of machine and might work best anyway.
I am waiting on the rain again so I can roll the 16' bolted together sections out of the shop bay, and finish with the tac up of its 6 foot frontend section.
Sweatin bullets yesterday now rain again as every other day, not good for many crop plantings so I should feel lucky I don't crop farm.
Anyway I have another area for a machine about 14'x11' and needing to build another table and considering a short 2' front area and 6' wide area to the left of needle and just 2' behind machine at my left operator side. This initial area I had machine facing the 14'direction now ? its up in the air
chris I rarely use 46" brmax the end of the taqble behind when sitting at the machine is about 66" wide this allows a 60" roll of canvas the cardboard tube are generally 63" so I put it on a pipe on the roll holder at the end of the table as you can see in this pic the side of the machine head is even with the table so the needle is what 4"away even at times Chris this annoys me and I wish I went needle even with the table. mind you all my office chair I remove the left arm if there are arms. tables are 30"
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with this width I can roll out my canvas then lay my pattern on it to cut beyond the machine the table widens so canvas sewn dosent fall on the floor and it 7 1/2'if I had my way id have 2 tables one for cutting patterns out and one 8' or more wide for sewing large canvas covers . with my table now I still have to keep it off the floor across the table, (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi782.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy102%2FMike8560%2Fcovers%2Fth_4512AC42-E2A6-4F7A-9ABE-36CBF090A905_zpszjohsq75.jpg&hash=dacd031c0188af31252cc1bdb20d1fe4) (http://s782.photobucket.com/user/Mike8560/media/covers/4512AC42-E2A6-4F7A-9ABE-36CBF090A905_zpszjohsq75.jpg.html)
and the other end is a mirrow of the other end
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Mike:
How tall are your tables ?
Chris
soory late 30" chris
Wow........ 30 " Does it bother you or John's back ? You guys are tall.
Chris
My cutting table is 47" high.
For the first few years I had lower back pain. I read that you should be able to stand beside your table and have your elbow rest on the top. I did this and I haven't had lower back pain for 8 or 9 years now.
I've talked to other folks and this does not seem to be an issue for them. For me it works great. I have a long bench stool that I stand on when I need to lean across the table. My table is 60" wide.
I guess it never occurred to me to make a table any height other than the sewing machine that I butt up to it.
Maybe it's just what I'm used to, but I don't think I could ever get used to having my sewing machine separate from my table.
I'm 5'8". My table is around 30" high. I can barely reach across it to the other side now. If it were 47", I'd need a step ladder.
my table is 30" like the machines 7 '1/2 feet wide and I always have to reach across as far as I can using 60" wide canvas. my last shop I had 2 sewing table 30" one id cut on and the other sewed the job unless 2 job were going at once , sure tller would be nice but I don't have room for more then one table last place had 2 tall assembly table also with storage under
The shop I'm in has a cutting table about the height Gene suggest ( at 5'6" it's about elbow high on me) and I have a 30" table between the two machine with a drop leaf that extends it to 60+".I begrudge the waste of space, but it is easier on the back. I have to run around to the other side for 60" goods regardless. If it wasn't for June , I'd be the shortest one here LOL.
Where I apprenticed the tables where higher than a standard machine so the machines all sat on 4'X4' base to bring them up to the table. I recall them being 2X4's on edge with a plywood top---but they may have been 2X6.
Progress Update, With some great help and ideas here ( Big thanks )I managed to build the three main table modules and they are with the 2" x 1/8 angle material. The covering structure has some 3/4" b/c sheathing for the bottom shelf area and for the top 3/4 mdo plywood. The structure I painted n primed with gray rustoleum, the plywood was primed with some oil based Zinsser and followed up with some white premium enamel from Vansickle, and usinge hardener in the 2 top coats. All the paint seemed to roll out ok with a couple different foam rollers using a standard 9" foam and even though a couple different makes seem to have a lot of bubbles this I was expecting a "bit" but had more so than planned, so while wielding a 9 I followed shortly as planned with these little 6" white foam covers slowly this done in sections trying to keep a wet edge of sorts and worked great- uh as can be for rolling and lucky no ropes found.
There are 3 sections 2 are 6' wide x 8' one is with machine and seat area cutout completely the other forward section is a 6' x 6' keeping in my work area constraint, so total table is 22' x 6' and bottom structure shelf is 24" clearance below. The adjustable leg stubs I made primarily because a couple floor drains in this area unlike the class a floor on opposite side, oh well. Any way this setup I'm running at present is a 38" top height and gives my lower shelf clearance or height a 12".
Now before some other question for ideas I will mention or explain some things I have run into and some I read about and should have considered more, so I will say what I recommend if certain pieces or styles are used to help in future endeavors.
Machine height with a k stand as in my case and opinion not designed to be at 38" so a complete lower shelf area could and should I think be setup or planned for. I made a 4.75"plywood box for the k stand its a pain even having locking casters.
Anyway I finally set one of the machines in place yesterday eve finally, a mini hyd jack helps adjust.
I now or next week will start plans on a 2' extension that drops down left table side, along with some plans with some of your experience in ideas for flat/sheet goods storage.
I today took a good look at some 12" sono tubes, thinking about getting a couple 12'rs and cutting them in half, as some cheap ones are close to 20$for a6' its a consideration for some kinda small organization I like.
Quoteseem to have a lot of bubbles this I was expecting a "bit" but had more so than planned, so while wielding a 9 I followed shortly as planned with these little 6" white foam covers slowly this done in sections trying to keep a wet edge of sorts and worked great- uh as can be for rolling and lucky no ropes found
I spent a year working in my friends' sigh shop before I hung out my shingle. [seem like the honourable thing to do before I became my trainer's competitor] What we used to do preparing billboards (4X8 sheets of what ever) was "tip them off" as soon as we finished painting them. All this entailed was taking the damp roller we had in our hand and instead of re-loading it in the tray we rolled it over the substrate using very light pressure and long smooth strokes. Really cut down or eliminated the orange peel.
QuoteI made a 4.75"plywood box for the k stand its a pain even having locking casters.
The bases I mentioned in my previous post were permanent, had no wheel, and accommodated both machine
and operator.
Quotealong with some plans with some of your experience in ideas for flat/sheet goods storage.
the best set up I've seen is what we had at the sign shop and the techs have over in our RV shop. 4X8 sheets are stood on end in compartments framed out of 2X4's . Picture the reflection of a library in the fun house mirror that makes everything look really tall and skinny.
OMG I'm old! I almost said like the K-tell record holder turned side ways LOL.
Morning!
Getting old Hmmh, surely not with that knowledge their gonna name a dictionary site after ya : )
try to remember us as I'm sure we would all like to go play ping pong a while and call it a stress relieving trip (paid of course).
That roller trick is an excellent one, I was trying to keep the small rollers that way almost loaded and wrung completely out as I heard when they make the sticky sound there a bit to dry, Still learning here so all is good.
I worked up the wood stand/box like you mentioned for the machine only on this table, I think this is the ticket. My excuse for the just machine couldn't be ? because I was out of ply but was because I'm using a couple old auction find drafting stools nothin special, and seriously need recovered but have got used to them in the other shop. I remember my first stand project was putting casters on the machines and I guess the wheels they seem handy.
I recall the fold away panels stands in the box stores that's a bit bigger scale right now, though the best for plywood, poly or lexan stuff storage for sure.
I'm thinking maybe 2 or 3 shelves something like 3" tall smaller shelves just under the main table surface for clear vinyl and maybe some starboard and door panel type sheet goods. This all might just fit above 5, 12" sono tubes on the lower shelf, its a thought I'm considering over coffee.
Thanks and good day there
I picked up a steel sew table with one machine earlier in the year and it has a machine area cutout made in it, some dimensions are a 3' forward of machine and 18" to the left side and roughly 3' from machine towards rear they used it in their binding work.
I been hammering it around to expand this just a bit for a separate area and needing a bit more table to left.
Well I'm able to keep a decent walk area in front with the same 3' forward and with a widening to the machine table left at 4' If I then stay with the 3' from machine to rear I can still walk around. It would be nice for a section directly behind for rolls of stuff and other storage but this particular spot I'm cut short and I need the walk around room.
So today figuring a material list for this rehash/re something and adding it with my other needed extension material I can go stop in at the machine shop for a work order placement.
Just keep moving forward they say!
I wanted to share some pics primarily because of all the examples and ideas I have had from you all here upholstery.com, coverandcushion.com, thehogring.com, just to name a few. I have found that in a new build situation if one can use something of size temporarily it can be more accurate in some decisions, I was super lucky and found a deal on the blue Styrofoam and use it in these table builds, at 7.00 a sheet several years ago versus 27. a no brainer its 2"; )
Big thanks, its a process starting up and I'm having a blast!
ps its been a long tough choice for my photo storage and it is also a new process
Thank you
Floyd
http://www.wheelhousecanvas.com/Shop-Works/Canvas-Work-Table/
Nice job Floyd. I love a good bit of overkill. You could cut up moose on those bad boys LOL.
I guess I'm a bit thick, though. where did you use the 2" styrofoam insulation? That isn't your surface material is it? Your pics said MDO.
It would be nice for a section directly behind for rolls of stuff and other storage but this particular spot I'm cut short and I need the walk around room.
I bet roll goods are a PITA in a narrow shop like that. I've got a couple of bins of roll goods that are too close to the cutting table that drive me nuts.
It won't solve the problem ---but! what about a free standing rack that straddled the table down at the far end like you see at the flooring retailer's? My table back in my own shop was butted against a wall at the "far end" and I made a ladder of hooks up the wall for the most common stuff. I did a lot of boats so my heavy rolls of window plastic where on the bottom , then a couple of racks for the sunbrella of the day etc... and the bug screen up top. It would save you a lot of trips out to the shed with 50 yard rolls of vinyl [wink].
That's a lot of stations for cutters, wrapers, umbrella drink makers, & couple a bosses as the norm haha, its 11 gauge pretty lite really.
As always Darren I'm hitting the nail and your driving it home, rock on!
Ya have to remember I was a heavy equipment mechanic not quite the writer, though a certified tech writer way back for mechanic techs and good thing there were editors sometimes. Maybe I should reread that cert, may have said certifiable ? haha
What I meant was the stuff came in handy using some cut pieces for area table planning and such, just threw it on some saw horses to have a look see and wahla.
I put a few different pics of small foam table sizes up just for ideas someone might use as it helped me, the foam worked pretty good for that as I have had 30 sheets for a good while.
( for good mention; Chicago studies have proven it requires 1.5" of this type to make a proper moisture barrier without sweating as the humidity here in Midwest is like drinking your air ).
The rack you mention and room available, I am still in need of reworking a mobile one but getting it around the back could be done but tight moving back and forth although some area back there for getting it out the way.
I'm putting a bender I picked up on the wall where I have placed some foam real close to the machine and a crowner at the forward end, that's when I find a deal on one of them someday so anyway the wall clearance is a bit closer than wanted at 30" and my old rack at 34" base with a straight back and angle front.
Another part I think for answering was me mentioning the available room around the machine area for rolls of binding maybe mountings of different types under table and behind me, the smaller table is a bit different and I was considering ideas for small roll good hangers, milk crates, and some things that I might need to weld while all was out in other shop.
good days there
Floyd
QuoteWhat I meant was the stuff came in handy using some cut pieces for area table planning and such, just threw it on some saw horses to have a look see and wahla.
I wondered if that was what you had done.
When I laid out my shop I made scale paper cut outs of all my equipment etc...and a scale drawing of the irregular shaped room. My finisher (shoe making machinery ) weighs a ton even though it's in three sections. I only wanted to move it once!! It was kinda like a doll house for red necks. " and I can make a table this big over here for gluing"---"and the fridge fits right over here"......
Floyd
Those are the nicest work tables I've seen in a sewing shop bar none - thanks for sending the photos
There was no learning curve that I could see -
SA
Thanks Steve
Its been some of the great ideas mentioned around here and appreciate it.
I made another 5" high plywood box for a k-stand at the small table, and yesterday put the top coat paint on it, It needed some rope handles to drag or carry and it finally dried so loaded up the machine.
Trying to keep in my mind adjusting machine and table heights for machines to interchange when needed, seems the tv makes it tough when good plays are watched.
Gotr done leveled and pushed the old stool up and noticed I needed it higher ? oh man, then I just stood there and thought I can sew standing, not happening.
Trucked to the machine shop, Friday 4:00 crowded and got a welcome : ) so I picked up the bar stock for the stool, I needed a couple feet of 1" cold roll and because its an old drafting type stool and things are a bit more workable.
Measured and cut a bit off, drilled some set height guide holes as the stool has a hand screw positions for adjustments so I made .5" adjustments for an 8" area.
Might this weekend get a few more items started, just stoked to get to this stage.
Good day there
Floyd
I wanted to post up and mention the start to a ( roll goods rack discussion) and its mounted on the end of one of the tables I been working up. The need is there to have some better access to a few materials of the day or week.
The space at the end is a close 4' with no turning room for any pro storage on casters, so with some looking around in a search here. I don't seem to get the super correct search word ever, and so some of the pictures of fabric roll goods racks, stands through different setups many have had here would be cool to look at. ( where's the sign :)
You know in some special projects and regular experiences, everyone has made some easier time savers so hunting them has been pretty windy on the tracking trail, its never easy for the good stuff.
Heck I even listen a bit and decided its go time for a semi permanent rack mounted to the existing table with the main uprights touching the floor somehow.
Your ideas and experience, as always welcome here.
good days there
Floyd