Some time ago, I started because often it was an integrated requirement within a project already in work. It has turned out to be a positive for my business and today given the changes happening in the business , insures job security.
Also, like stated, it is nearby so why not make the money!
I am sure there are some who also do wood as well as upholstery, how is it working with you? Profitable?
Just a thought worth sharing, chime in if involved in this subject and perhaps how you manage that sector of the work.
Doyle
Naturally, I do internal structural wood repair on upholstered furniture. But I send all the cosmetic repairs of external finished wood to a refinishing shop down the street.
In turn, he sends all upholstery repairs to me. We've had a great relationship for over 20 years.
We extend each other courtesy fixes. I'll do minor fabric repairs for him. He'll take care of minor wood touch-ups for me. He has a key to my shop if he needs to bring a piece by after hours and tack on a new dust cover that he had to remove for repair.
I too do structural repairs along with touch up of exposed wood trim. I don't get into major refinishing any more just because it can be messy and like auto and marine work that grime might find it's way to the white silk sofa on another set of horses. So I shy away from anything like that now.
I do love working with wood though and have done much in the way of repairs and replacements on furniture.
We also build cornices and such all the time. It gives me a way to make sawdust :)
What exactly to you others do in the way of wood work.
Strictly upholstery.
I was in HS in the early 70's and if a female had signed up for auto repair/woodworking/etc, the counselor would have had apoplexy. Reverse was true as well for male students and traditional home ec courses. That has all changed. One of my nieces graduated from the same HS 20 years later and she took auto mechanics. She is a worse grease monkey than her father and together they have spent many happy hours rebuilding vintage cars.
I'm now just old enough and set in my ways to not be ready, willing and able to learn woodworking skills. I also have a very limited space in my shop and honestly don't know where any woodworking projects and/or tools would go.
Virginia
Doyle
Good choice - do both as much as you can as long as space provides. You don't have to become a finish repair expert but as you better the finishing craft you'll be less dependent on others. If you really want to train find a finisher and work for him on Saturdays or after hours. Look for a continuing education courses at nights in the local high school - read the finishing forums like Wood Magazine where you'll see some familiar names that are here as well -
Buy the CDs - you-tube - read the books and one day it will all mesh and your shop will be one up on the others.
**blush**
Quote from: SteveA on June 11, 2015, 08:29:26 am
read the finishing forums like Wood Magazine where you'll see some familiar names that are here as well -
I highly recommends Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" and Jeff Jewitt's "Complete Illustrated Guide to Wood Finishing." If there is a traveling Mohawk Wood Class near you, it might be worth your while. It will take a lot of practice to get good at things like burn-ins and toning, but it will be a good start.
I guess I consider myself a "professional wood repair person" that also does some upholstery cleaning and repair. Got pushed/pulled into that when my customers wanted me to do upholstery work, too.
Isn't it great to have the opportunity to relate with the wood and finishing of same with members on the same board! It is truely something to experience. Thanks for the two professional people (Steve and Hammer) who come, participate, and offer their knowlege to the related questions that come up.
First, the two finishing guides (by Bob Flexner and Jeff Jewitt), could be obtained by: Could one or both be read on the internet? Finishing does come up now and then and could add some respect to an upholstery business. A lot of upholstery customers can be favorably impressed by just realizing that their provider knows something about finishes, wood, and wood repairs -- I have had the experience just given.
Anyone else here read these authors (Bob and Jeff)?
I have been involved in some of the older finishes, lacquer, tung oil, just to start talking but what differs with the new furniture finishes, I just don't know.
Wood working, I truly love just as much as upholstery and often feel that the knowledge of same is essential, really just as essential as upholstery capabilities, because the wood repair issues constantly arise.
I am fortunate to have two separate shops for this with some decent equipment. That skill is used frequently. Matter of fact, repaired three bed frames today and didn't have to thread a needle - grin. The work is there and competition is, from my limited perspective, is very scarce.
Further, the work schedule tomorrow does include doing wood repairs on brand new upholstered pieces. Why is this frequently coming up -- well in my simple vernacular, people are getting bigger and the new framing is weaker.........it breaks!
That is the picture as I see it.
Thanks again for the highly qualified participants (all of you) who come here and give their time, providing such enrichments.
Doyle
I would be wary of anything on youtube. Any fool can post anything on youtube, and many do.
Part of the problem is the outright misleading labels on products with names that don't represent what they truly are and sometimes bad directions. This is where Flexner excels. He does not sell products, nor does he accept endorsements from manufacturers. He does not believe anything until he has done research and trials to his satisfaction. He book is full of myth vs. fact sidebars.
As far as I know his book(s) are not available online, though many of his articles (some of which are excerpts from the book) at Popular Woodworking and WoodShop News magazine web sites. You might check your local library for a copy. http://woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing
PopWood seems to have reorganized after acquiring another magazine and loosing most of their main in-house editors. So the links are gone, but you can find them here http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing
Another great book for structural repairs is http://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Restoration-Home-Improvement/dp/1580114784 I have the original version. I have heard from the publisher that the "abridged" version has less information (which makes sense since that is what "abridged" means). If you can find the pre-2010 version via ebay or amazon, I recommend you get it.
Hammer - I disagree - you tube is a great source - it's changed the world - Doyle a furniture restorer can pick through videos and asses their merit -
Hammer have you ever learned an upholstery technique on you tube ? Here's a couple of sites that are good Doyle - Wood Whisperer and Stumpy Nubs - entertaining and done by experienced folks - and lets not forget about Mike whose right here !
SA
There are good instructional videos on Youtube, and there some bad ones.
Any knucklehead with a video camera and a YT account can present himself to the world as an authority. Much the same way that any jerk with a blog can be the answer to a question that nobody asked. Anyone with a keyboard is a journalist now.
Every now and then I'll peruse through the upholstery related videos. I've learned a little........I've laughed a little.
I once ordered a DVD on sewing machine repair. It cost $60, and was very amateurishly made. The camera shook like crazy. He was constantly out of focus. The audio was terrible. And he spent the first 15 minutes of a 1 hour video displaying and explaining all the different types of slot screwdrivers.
There are a lot of experts in the field with wonderful knowledge to share. Unfortunately, not all of them are good videos makers. And there are some good instructional video makers who have no command of the subject matter.
So basically you have to take many of the YT videos with a grain of salt.
there are some good videos on Youtube and there are some bad ones. The problem is sorting out the difference, You would only have to search youtube on how to recover a dining chair to see this.
I guess I made the assumption that a common problem for upholsterers is wood finish repair - scuffs, chips, damaged finish, dirty/degraded finish, wood gouges, missing pieces that need made to match. The other half is what I call "structural repair" of broken parts, split and fractured wood, loose joints.
Quoteyou have to take many of the YT videos with a grain of salt.
The same can be said about anything on the internet. That was one of Dad's big peeves. "I saw it on the internet so it has to be true", followed closely by being able to say what ever you like to or about someone as long as you suffix it with LOL. What ever happened to bibliographies ? Back in school if the source of my information was not creditable my paper was rejected and I got a "D" no matter how sound my argument or my logic. [assuming my spelling and grammar were correct]
The example I use is a photo of a bull moose suspended by his antlers from a high tension power line. The "news article" claimed that the bull had gotten wrapped up in the new cables being installed before the hydro company pulled that 8 km (5 miles) of cable tight along the towers with a caterpillar tractor, and was hauled up with it. Social media went nuts with demand that the power company check the line before lifting it , the wildlife people should have relocated the moose et al if they were going to work in that remote location,etc...
A> The moose would not be expected to be that close to construction in a remote area.
B>How did he get his antlers wrapped around a 1 1/2" thick strand of cable that was lying on the ground?
It was the better part of a month before word got out that it was a doctored photo.
Darren
That would be a perfect Myth Busters caper.
As far as the "I saw it on the Internet, so it must be true", that is Bob's & my favorite stupid saying. Anytime we see something on the internet that is obviously untrue, we tell each other and then follow up with that mantra.
I really feel sorry for teachers today who expect students to research and write papers. I remember going to the library and spending hours working on term papers when I was in college back in the coal ages (pre internet). Yup, every quote had to be sourced and proper bibli at the end of the paper. Now, you can go on-line and order the paper of your dreams. Teachers spend inordinate amounts of time (good ones) insuring that the little darlins actually wrote their papers as opposed to buying them.
The internet is like anything else. It is what you make of it. I think the old caveat "Buyer beware" still holds true. It is what you make of it and you have to take what you read or watch with a grain of salt. So back to wood repair, you will find good videos and not-so-good videos and it is up to you to recognize the difference. You can say the same of books. I've found good reference material and bad. Especially today, you don't even have to have a publishing company to write a book. Thanks to the internet, you can "publish" it yourself.
Virginia
The claim of "I saw it on the internet, so it must be true" is merely the modern-day version.
As a kid, I remember my grandmother always backing up her wild stories with "I read it in the paper". Usually, that so-called "paper" that she was referencing was some rag like the Enquirer.
And Virginia makes a good point about books nowadays. Any yokel can have a book printed.
Quote from: sofadoc on June 13, 2015, 06:28:12 am
As a kid, I remember my grandmother always backing up her wild stories with "I read it in the paper". Usually, that so-called "paper" that she was referencing was some rag like the Enquirer.
My SIL used to get SO upset with her mother (my MIL) because she would constantly lecture Jill about some darn thing or another back in the day and follow it up with, "Well they say". When SIL asked her who the heck they were, MIL would reply, "You know, the people who write the newspapers and magazines." Nowadays, SIL would have given her a good eye roll and walked off. Don't remember what SIL's reaction was but I can assure you it was over the top and funny!
Virginia
I refurbish furniture feet. This encourages more upholstery work in that it's less expensive than refinishing, and it allows folks the option of taking off the skirt.
The next time you go to the doctors tell him/her what your problem is and then start to tell them that you saw how to fix it on the internet. :)
When my father-in-law was in hospice I was talking to a nurse about internet medical experts, i.e., folks who read something on the internet and believe it's true. She said her standard response is, "If that were true everyone would be doing it." I said, "Yes, but not if it's a government conspiracy keeping people from knowing the truth." She got a good laugh out of that one. Unfortunately, "a government conspiracy" is a standard 'go to' for a lot of folks.
Several weeks ago I asked my doctor for a pill that will make me set a goal for losing weight and actually achieve that goal. She said that if she had that kind of pill she would give it to her patients who are 350 and 400 pounds.
gene
Saber Saw - two questions:
1. My Dewalt has three settings for the blade cutting angle, 90 degrees and two more setting less than 90. The manual has been reviewed and information is "how to"make the settings, not the purpose. My question is when to use the different settings, what is the primary purpose? Could it be to start cutting in the middle of a piece of stock instead of on the edge (plywood)? It might be easy to understand but this angle is in the direction of cutting not perpendicular to cutting (not the bevel angle).
2. The other question is; what can a user of this saw do to reduce blade deflection. Blade deflection is perpendicular to cutting direction. Maybe some of the wood workers here have solved or reduced this issue to a minimum? Would, perhaps a better blade quality improve the situation? Faster speed? Or?
As a note, I like this saw because is is more portable than a circular saw and I get a lot of work 0n site. More portable, means it is easier to plug in and go. compared to a circular saw.
Paul, Steve, or Hammer probably can identify with these questions.
Thanks in advance,
Doyle
I have a sabre saw, but honestly, it's one of my least-used tools. I think I only use it for interior cuts, preferring a band saw for other non-straight cuts. But I do agree, it's portable and sort of Jack-of-all-trades. In fact, Popular Woodworking, in their I Can Do That beginning guide recommends it as the first saw you should buy.
As with recommendations of the '70s -- cheap stereo and good set of speakers, a good blade will make any saw perform better. In fact, one of my first saws was a cheap sabre saw and it worked fine with some professional quality blades.
I believe the adjustment you may be talking about is an "orbital" action that's designed to clear out the sawdust on thick material.
As for the blade wandering, I think slow and steady and not forcing the cut will help here.
https://books.google.com/books?id=_eMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA82&lpg=PA82&dq=sabre+saw+cutting+angles&source=bl&ots=C9lZ-lACLb&sig=MvSiQKAdZ_jzGXm8eDvruyoYr5Q&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CB0Q6AEwADgKahUKEwi85sas7I3GAhUGWJIKHWywAFw#v=onepage&q=sabre%20saw%20cutting%20angles&f=false
I found that a saber saw with worm drive is my choice over those electronic jobs. Jig saw cutting should be slow and the blade match the type of wood and fineness of cut desired. I also have an air saw with a 14 teeth / inch course blade that I use for wood. You'd like this for small work.
Just take your time with power tools - make sure the work is clamped down firmly - it will reduce blade deflection and sloppy cuts from bouncing.
SA
I have a standing order with a nearby fixture manufacturing company. They outfit dressing rooms and kid's play areas in major dept. stores. They sub out the padded seating work to me.
One of the jobs I do for them requires cutting wood for 14" X 16" seats. I have a table saw, band saw, jig saw, and circular saw. But since I'm usually alone, I get the guys at Home Depot to cut a 4' X 8' sheet of 5/8" particle board into 16" strips so I won't have to try and maneuver the entire sheet by myself.
You've all probably all seen the big cutting jig that they have. They lay the sheet vertically on a set of rollers, and slide the saw on a track. So cutting at least 2 perfect 16" X 96" strips should be a breeze, right?..............WRONG!!! I understand that when allowing for the thickness of the saw blade, the 3rd strip is going to be a little less than 16". My plan is to turn the 3rd strip the other way and get a 14" strip out of that one.
But it's always some pimple faced kid running the machine. They never can come within 1/4" of getting any of the strips right. And when I try to advise them that they are about to cut it wrong, all I get is a shrug of the shoulders and a rolling of the eyes.
Good information guys, I will check with (the big box lumber stoes?) for blade selection, I feel one is needed. Clamping the work, especially the small stock, makes sense also.
Definitely moving the blade through the stock slower will make an improvement in expected cutting accuracy.
What is the logic with respect to speed of blade, seems that has some correlation between the rate of movement of the saw? That is faster blade speed, if saw moves faster and cutting gets tougher. Even so, I will make sure saw movement is kept slower.
Not sure I have the hang on the orbital action (the one that seems to correlate with the angle of the blade with respect to direction of cutting. The angle of cutting, like stated, can be set at 90 degrees and then the other settings moves the tip of the blade in the direction of cutting (which are less than 90) which means the cutting lead is on the lower side of the stock.
Like I said, that issue hasn't been all sorted out by me, maybe more thought is needed.
I mentioned I have a separate wood shop, but customers call me to do on site repairs and the sabre is one of the primary assets for that. Of course it has it's advantages on internal cuts of larger pieces where the band saw can't reach. My sabre is a $150 saw.
Thanks guys, sharp blade (selected for wood being cut) and move the saw through the cutting process slower with the stock clamped. Good advice!
A point, this DeWalt seems to be a professional level, don't recall the amp but in the higher range. It has plenty of power.
BTW, the link to the Popular Mechanics reading was very beneficial and interesting. I agree with their assessment of the sabre saw. Plus, it makes me money.
Doyle
Doyle, I had to be around and help a couple master finish carpenters growing up as a kid, though that's sounds harsh I enjoyed it, yet I opted for the profession towards my other side of the family with wrenches and that sort. But I may be able to help out as that's where I come in and you can Always count on it.
Ive had some well used hand me down saws So in short my first purchased new saw was like you mention as it sounds and I suspect very similar as black n decker went in together a bit with dewalt and also made some very good tools for again a short period for sears craftsman.
This model I picked up in the early 90s an industrial Model No. 900.272510 sears industrial sabre saw.
On the left side it has a lever and as the manual describes " though different sounding to me" it says orbital and in short advances the lower blade forward, on mine at 90degree its at 0 position then lifting up it has 1,2,3 other positions.
I suspect they are hinting at orbital because a cam type movement of sorts, below I will type the paragraph as is in my manual below just to shed another light on one part of the question.
"Straight line or orbital cutting action
Conventional sabre saws cut with a straight line action, that is, the blade moves only up and down in a straight line.
Your saw also cuts in this manner but, for softer materials, an orbital cutting action can be selected.
Soft materials, like wood and plastic permit deep penetration of individual saw teeth.
The orbital action thrust the blade forward on the cutting stroke and greatly increases cutting speed over conventional sabre saws. Harder materials like metal should be cut using the straight line cutting action or very low orbital setting.
To select straight line or orbital cutting adjust the dial on the saw as shown in figue 5-A."
yes they spelled figure wrong in that paragraph.
In my world that position or positions available to saw are called advanced, but what do I know.
Information Reference: Manual # 446001-02
Have a good day there
Well, Brmax the saw you describe by Craftsman does sound like mine. Mine has three angular positions like your manual explained. So, that makes a total of positions (angles) the blade may be set.
The 4 positions, their selection, a user is instructed to select a position based on density of materials being cut. Metal at 90 degrees usually. And that information sets the stage for the rational of the other three angles. Now I understand that advancing the blade forward through the angles, logically causes the saw blade to contact more material being cut. Which is acceptable as the material is of a softer nature.
Got it! Thanks.
Doyle
I've used probably three maybe four saber saws in my days. My first one was an old BD that was replace with a sears higher end model that had a scroll cutting feature where you could unlock the blade and turn the top handle to do scroll work. It was pretty handy but it seems to grab my finger more than I liked. My fault I know. Anyway that finally died and I bought a Bosch. Very good tool. This is the first sabre saw that cut both straight and true 90 degree cuts. It has very good guides. And it doesn't like my fingers. Knock on wood.
As for the settings you mention doyle, I see them as feature that I probably wouldn't use much. I'm more prone to do a blade selection. Mine has a few settings I don't use but do turn the knobs once in awhile just because they are there. I think one is like what you're asking about and I never have found any good use for it. I do like the blower on mine. It keeps the line clear. I also like to have some down cutting blades for fine veneer and laminate cutting.
QuoteThe orbital action thrust the blade forward on the cutting stroke and greatly increases cutting speed over conventional sabre saws.
That's it in a nut shell. And quality blades are a must !!!! The "Dewalt" tee handled blades are the only way to go (IMHO) as they are twice as thick as your generic "hardware store house brand/B&D blades" and run true. I also find that increasing that cam action makes the blade dig into the wood more ----reducing chatter between the saw's table and the substrate. This makes it much easier to maintain a straight accurate cut down the centre of your line. When I closed my shop and worked for Bathfitter back in '08/09 , we had to cut up to 11 foot cuts in acrylic within 1/16 th of an inch. If it was a little faster than the speed I wanted to cut---I'd slow the motor RPM , but keep the full orbital action. That also helped the wall sheet from bouncing, as it was getting drawn tight to the saw table as I cut.
Dennis; You're right --- those panel saws are the bee's knees. One lumber yard back in Kenora actually had one that worked in either plane [ side-side/up-down]. Tres cool. Way out of my budget and You know I'm way too small to be running a 4X8 through a portable table saw alone----so I build the next best thing. Lee Valley have a clamp on skill saw guide that does the same job with the substrate laid flat.The one we had at the sign shop wasn't all that great because on screw was missing, so I took two 50-ish pieces of drapery I beam and drilled some holes through them. I lay the substrate on a couple of el-cheapo economy studs on saw horses---snap my chaulk line---mark off the 4 1/2" from the edge of my saw table to centre of blade and screw it to the substrate---and rip it off with the skill (circular) saw. Stack your 3- 15 15/16 th pieces and screw them to the 2X4 and cut the other way. Budda Boom Budda Bing.
Spent much of the day removing upholstey to perform internal wood frame repairs yesterday. Used my DeWalt machines with blades in a manner encouraged in this thread with better results. Got the repairs done, reassembled the upholstery and went on to the next job (one of those mobile days). I guess this type of work is on the increase because it isn't turned down.......the smart side of it is, reduces pickup/deliver time, which can take longer than the repair time. That is a better return on my time.
That is most of what business is all about.
Thanks for the tips guys, it brought my attention to important details...........plus I wasn't being critical of a DeWalt, just seeking understanding of the tool. It seems to be a strong tool.
Back to work,
Doyle
video on the subject of saber/sabre saws that might be of some interest?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=17&v=f1cuvdA99tM