question for everyone...
Do you know anything about Reliable, Tacsew walking foot machines. My dream is the Juki DN1181, but can afford only used at this point. And does anyone know, anyone selling a machine right now. Thank you
I've always been intrigued by the DU-1181 and similar class machines, but have never seen one up close. Do you currently sew on one where you work?
My understanding is that it isn't compound feed, but is gentler on light-to-medium fabrics. I thought it might make a good alternative for the really thin stuff that my LU-1508 tends to "eat up". If you have any personal experience with the 1181, please share.
I purchased the Juki DU1181 at my last job and it is a dream. This Juki is a walking foot and has all the options the bigger machines have. It is a lighter machine then must upholsterers use. This 1181 works great on all fabrics and I moved to the Cape and Islands where we use a lot of linens and Sunbrella's so I have no need for the larger machine. Don't get me wrong this machine sews right through upholstery grade leather. I highly recommend the Juki DU1181 to everyone. Thank you for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it.
http://www.sewinggold.com/J1181N.html
After reading the specs on the machine, it should make a heck of a slip cover machine for furniture or any lighter weight cloth. Or, even a tailoring machine for mens suits, etc.
It is a walking foot but not a compound needle feed like we use in working with the heavier vinyls with welt. I wouldn't select the machine for marine work, would you?
Doyle
Believe it or not I have an Amish family that has bought 8 of this type of machine & 1-206 type,they use these 1181's on the light boat canvas.They use the 206 for heavier tarp repair.They don't pucker the seam like a walking foot needle feed does.
Bob
QuoteBelieve it or not I have an Amish family that has bought 8 of this type of machine & 1-206 type,they use these 1181's on the light boat canvas.
Exactly my point, use the 206 for heavier canvas and vinyl upholstery with welting, etc., in marine and auto and some furniture. Boat covers used in the midwest are not made of heavy materials, is it Aqualon? The seams will bunch or gather in the 206 type machine. I don't think the marine people in Florida would want anything less than a 206 due to dealing with plastic windows.
So some or all Amish use electric powered equipment?
I don't have a walking foot like the 1181 but it will make a great machine for much of the lighter weight materials used today in furniture (micro fiber). I would want the 206 for any of the vinyl, bonded leather (with cording), and leather.
Bob, what is the major difference between the 1181 and the older Singer 16-188?
There are some differences, I understand from the specs on the 1181, seems to be more adjustable for different ranges of materials, right?
Doyle
I use my Juki 1541 for the majority of my slipcover work. I regularly use it with a 16 needle and #46 thread and I don't have problems with the walking foot puckering the fabric. If the fabric in question is really "light" I can always use my Juki 9010 (straight needle feed) or my elderly but very reliable Singer 31-15 (drop feed).
I think a lot of operators don't really understand how to adjust their machine(s) quickly and efficiently when moving from one fabric to one that differs greatly in hand. It takes practice and if you don't routinely have to do it, it's not second nature and operators quickly become frustrated and/or confused.
Hi Everyone,
I really appreciate all the feedback. So I ended up purchasing the Consew 206RB5 with the servo motor. I can always get a lighter machine later.
CBerry
I love my Juki 1541 (kissing cousin of the jaunted 1508, but it's a horizontal axis bobbin and the bobbin's capacity is less than the 1508's). There is nothing like a needle feed, walking foot machine when you have to deal with multiple fabric layers. If you make the time to train yourself you'll be able to switch between lighter weight and heavier weight fabrics with ease. HINT: periodically back your tension way "off" on both the head the bobbin case and readjust them while working on a single layer bias run using an appropriate need and thread for the work you intend to do. The goal is to have the line of stitching through a single bias layer lie smooth or very nearly so. (over time operators tend to overtighten the head's tension and that's why layers tend to pucker).
I've worked on a Consew255RB for close to 14 yrs. now at my (soon to end) job. It's been a real champ., never "set a foot wrong", fully reliable, and worth searching out as a "used" machine. I have every reason to believe that your new Consew 206 will serve you well, too.
I sold my old Juki 562 knowing it was time for an upgrade (I'd been saving and researching for 12+yrs.). I bought a 1541N7 (full function). I can't say enough good things about Servo motors. I have two machines with Servos (both Jukis) and as funds become available I'll convert my W&G overlock and US Blindstitch machines to servo motors. No comparison when "out of the box" control issues are considered. I'm a very experienced stitcher and can "master" a new machine in about 3 minutes but Servos are SO easy! why torture yourself if you're going to buy a brand new machine?
Quote from: chrisberry12 on January 27, 2013, 08:20:16 am
Hi Everyone,
I really appreciate all the feedback. So I ended up purchasing the Consew 206RB5 with the servo motor. I can always get a lighter machine later.
CBerry
Congrats. The 206 i a workhorse and if I ever buy another machine will be the first choice for me.
Chris
I have a 206RB5 and love it...I also have an old singer 144w204 (20 inch longarm) and use it alot as well, the singer seems to have a softer feed than the consew, but lacks reverse which can be overcome easily enough, but find myself using the consew more than the singer because I am used to it, you will enjoy the machine, only problem I have ever had with it was breaking the locking latch on my bobbin case