Ever use plygrip with leather? Or vinyl?
Any problems?
Doyle
I've used it before. I like the stiffer 3-tooth pli-grip better (when using it on stiffer leather). Of course, there is always the possibility of scuffing, or a bite mark.
Assuming we're talking about going around curves? I'd rather use nailheads. But if the customer vetos them, I'll use pli-grip. I'm not in to blind sewing leather.
Its a pain but it can be done. The thicker the harder.
Blind sewing is an option but better have a sharp needle and tough fingers.
Nail heads are not preferred.
This is a lawyer's office chair and the specific issue is across the top about 17 or 18 inches at the top of the outside back. There is a small crown (arch).
I just need it across the top, the sides will get the metal nail strips.
I was thinking, since a welt is involved, another option is to Machine sew the outside back to the welt, along the top instead of using plygrip.
I think it is doable, the arch isn't too much I don't think.
I would sew the outside back to the welt, then staple it on across the top and go from there.
Hand sewing would be tougher, I don't want to go there.
Any comments?
Doyle
Doyle, a picture is worth a thousand words.... When you gonna get a digital camera or a smart phone that takes pics? Imagine all the help you could get from the brains on this board with one or two pics.. :-X
June
I understand June, but these guys are so experienced they are doing fine with their response. This one is old soap to the furniture pros.
When I get my new camera June, I will bug you till I get as good as you are with yours.
Doyle
If it isn't a drastic arch, you might be able to backtack it.
No, thankfully it isn't a high arch. Plus, the long nose will be used. I am going to give it a shot. I will start stapling at the center and work out on both sides. A 9/16th inch staple should hold the cord, leather, and the strip. It is about 17 inches wide, like I said, and moving from center in equal increments, on both sides, should negotiate the arc issue.
Thanks,
Doyle
Quote from: DB on December 06, 2012, 07:03:39 pm
I will start stapling at the center and work out on both sides. A 9/16th inch staple should hold the cord, leather, and the strip........... moving from center in equal increments, on both sides, should negotiate the arc issue.
That is exactly how I would approach it.
If you are worried about the ply grip try using heavy cardboard/posterboard and make a pattern of the top then just staple the pipe and fabric to it and then nail it on and finish the sides. I usually make the pattern so I have around 2-3 inches of board to nail to so it sits nice and tight. We have used curve ease lots and its good but it seems to have changed like everything else it does not have the strength it used to.
West Coast, your two primary points are well appreciated: one, affix the assembly of cording and final covering to a stiffner (some degree of cardboard) and the other about plygrip/curve ease not being as strong as it used to be.
Dennis, sofadoc, hit on that same note of there being some grip that is different.
Back to the West Coast point, I have encountered your technique somewhere else over time, it worked perfectly, I think it was in transportation seating. If I go that route and will if I can't back tack it together to look nice, I will sew everything to the cardboard then staple it in. I have seen glue used in this process also, where material and cording are sewn together then that assembly is glued to the cardboard then stapled to the furniture frame.
Outstanding points made, I am listening to everyone of them.
BTW, June since you are reemphasizing a camera, what specific camera do you find as a good recommendation? I have a digital, but I never liked it, it was only around $300 bucks.
Thanks again,
Doyle
I use the light for most fabrics, and the regular for leather.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi775.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy33%2Fsofadoc%2Fth_DSC00414.jpg&hash=e98e6212476142d336ae48af6ddc784e) (http://s775.photobucket.com/albums/yy33/sofadoc/?action=view¤t=DSC00414.jpg)
Quote from: DB on December 07, 2012, 05:19:07 am
BTW, June since you are reemphasizing a camera, what specific camera do you find as a good recommendation? I have a digital, but I never liked it, it was only around $300 bucks.
Thanks again,
Doyle
I have an old (probably 10 years) Olympus that came with software for about $230 as I recall, and it still works just fine. Lots of inexpensive digital cameras on the market are a terrific value. If I were in the market for one, I'd just look up reviews on CNET.COM or Consumer Reports if you have a subscription.
June
I have a $900 Canon Rebel....but I take most of my pictures with my phone! convenience outweighs quality IMO!
Quote from: JDUpholstery on December 07, 2012, 04:35:52 pm
I have a $900 Canon Rebel....but I take most of my pictures with my phone! convenience outweighs quality IMO!
Funny you should mention that. The wife unit got a package delivered the other day and is customary we never open each others mail or packages. She got home from work, seen the box and opened it up.
It appears she did a little early Christmas shopping, for herself mind you, and bought a new Cannon Rebel. Complete with extra zoom lens and filters. I cannot believe the price of these lens now days. Our buddy, who is a professional photographer spent $ 2,000 for a special zoom lens. :)
Chris
Interesting comment June, I think giving the $300 camera another chance seems practical. So, I will dig it out and practice, maybe it is just me?
It probably needs a battery(s) at the start.
I really like what I do but the volume really keeps me off the street. ;) Finding time to expand my activities can be a challenge.
More customers come in with phones having camera capability, but some lack decent quality, I don't think those pictures are near the quality of June's or Dennis camera.
I need to check the battery(s) and give the old guy another chance.
Doyle
Here's a thought that may not be practical or even possible. I have not tried it but am wondering about it's feasibility for future reference.
Can you cut the top of the 'back out' leather panel to match the curve of the top of the back of the chair, and then glue the top part onto the welt cord that will have been stapled onto the top edge? The leather can be cut with a bevel edge to help hide the edge of the leather.
Anyone done this with or without success?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Thank you.
gene
I guess one could but just sew it Gene. We do it all the time with cloth and some vinyl/leather. This will probably work in my case, I will find out soon. I had so many other projects to finish, haven't had time to get back to this issue. I will either do that or probably do the "adding stiffner" technique.
I had to get out five other projects yesterday, perhaps I can get back to that chair issue soon. That is all I lack on finishing that project. BTW, I got a call from the lawyer and he wants me to work in a headliner job also.
The beat goes on.........
This is why I haven't exploited the camera facility. Grin.
Busy!
Doyle
I took spsrt s bost seat reciently that had some metal strip with prongs on it tat bent over griping some winyl. It was on a pontoonand after seeing salt water had realy rusted and i really didnt see why it was used just fell off Is this shat your talking about. Plygrip?
About cameras: I do alot of work for Furniture medic which involves uploading alot of pictures for billing etc...I broke my camera and needed an inexpensive replacement (Yeah,I was broke that month ;D) I picked up a Samsung (ES30 at Wally world for $80.00.That was less than anything I saw at the pawn shops and second hand stores.It has more bells and whistles than I'll ever use and is mid range quality.I love eede the outside back it.I'm not all that impressed witht he editing softwear mind you.I still use the "Photo impressions" that came with my first Samsung.
About curve-eze and leather/vinyl: I'll use curve-eze on leather if I absolutely have to but never on vinyl.I've cut way to much of it :'( I just ran in to an order for the Hospital that was like this situation. For hygene etc they wouldn't accept deco nails,or a welt and needed the outside back nice and tight. I did them like kitchen chairs in that I sewed the inside and outside backs together and stretched them on and stapled the bottoms to the frame.
So true Darren, your comment of plygrip cutting vinyl
Matter of fact, one has to be careful when using metal tacking strips with vinyl.
Doyle