Well my trusty singer had its bigest breakdown im almost sown seei g a cover this morning when i hear a
Noise and my machine stop sewing I didnt jnow what happened at first and tryed areing again but. The bobbin stoped after i tipped the machine up then insaw the problem.
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/F43E679C-BB2F-4AAC-BE44-4EC3810F2051-2018-000002FF7E01D7F7.jpg
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/E07418E8-6872-4FA4-8553-AEE61020F042-2018-000002FFFAD75E1A.jpg
The belt that turns the bobbin it was multiple
Strands with mettal cogs. It lasted a long life but gave up the ghoast today after 20 years with me and i dont know bow long befor me. So i had to finnish up with. Y spare singer 111w i had in the garage. Iy that thing is heavy.
wowat least you had a spare !!
It's like the Honda autos. They said to change the drive belt at 100,000 miles. I did. A friend didn't and it broke while she was driving. My new belt cost a lot less than her new engine.
gene
if you need my Juki 563 let me know. Your more then welcomed to borrow it.
Chris
Fhanks for the offer chris but i have a juki lu 563. And the extra singer 111w155 i had to set up after my favoraite 111w broke tyebbelt after 30 years use. Ive changed a nedle bar. And bobbin case but never like this looks like the whole top. Has to. Come alart ive got a guy in naples who has done somemwork for me. He may be retired i dont know. Do you know anybody who repairs?
So what's the going rate for a SM mechanic to replace a timing belt on an old Singer? I could easily see it getting up around $400. Is it only worth doing if you can do it yourself?
Interference vs. non-interference engine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_engine
Quote from: gene on September 17, 2012, 04:22:15 pm
It's like the Honda autos. They said to change the drive belt at 100,000 miles. I did. A friend didn't and it broke while she was driving. My new belt cost a lot less than her new engine.
gene
if you can do upholstery, you can certainly change a belt on your machine. I didnt realize that the 111w came with a fiber and metal belt. Mine has had the rubber kind since I have had it. You change the belt by removing the bearing bushing around the input shaft at the hand wheel. you take off the hand wheel, remove a set screw or two and then fish in the belt at the top around the top shaft and then the bottom is easy and self explanatory. match up the arrows on the bottom and youre back in business. I think the belts are about $25. I have done it a few times for fun, and to clean and or restore a machine or two. if you want the manual page on the procedure, let me know. I will be glad to help you with it here online in the forum.
Zane
Yes, Zane is correct it isn't that hard to do & if you need any help you can email or call me.
I stock this belt also.
Bob
Bob wiuld you need any info for the belt its a 111w155
Can you tell me the cost and shipping to 33952 or pm me.
At least you had a backup, and it happened at the end of the job.
Your right. Regal
Before intear onto trying t repair myself
Going go getvto know my spare singer a little.
Mike,
I have a pdf manual for your machine if you need it, let me know and I can email it to you.
Tim
Well lo like in gojng to give it a shot. The guy inhad sork done before down in naple was an older guy with a shop at his hiuse and the nuber is discounte td to i gueese hes retired. My spare replacment singer sewed good but i found it seeing to thick of layer it would shread the theead and the. Eedle 2 layers of sunbrella was ok but 3 would start if sewi g to fast or with binding. inchanged needles and still happened to i tried turning the needle counterclockwide do the scarf was a bit more to the front. Its much better and knly seems to have the trouble of shreadi g when im sewing piping in a seam.
Ive never cHanged a belt before. Looks a bit itimidating
Needle and thread size Mike?
Go larger on the needle and test it again.
Doyle
V92 needle sie 20
Mike, If I used a 20 with 92 thread and sewed that stiff stuff, I would have a problem on any of my machines as the layers increased. The 20 needle can push the thread through only so many layers and effective get a good seam.
Years ago, we wouldn't sew through that much thickness with that small of needle, we would go with a 22. That was when we sewed with 16 cord treated cotton. BTW, we did that on a 111W155.
Good luck,
Doyle
I was used smetz 19 on my other 111w for years. NEver a problem. Then a new suplier had groz-becker. German Co 20s. And. No problems it my juki no trouble also its only on this spAre 11w im using till i fix the old one. I did turn the needle a bit and it got much better.
What size doese most use here with v92 the. Chart on on his site shows 19
http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html
So doyle binding ths edge of a cover ive alway used binding with webbing to reinforce the snaps. 3 larer of sunbrella us the webbing Its double fold binding on each edge so actually 5 layers plus the webbing ive never ha a problem what size would you use? Now its mostly only when sewing a seam with piping and that may be partly hos i use no piping foot
Mike,
I just have to experiment, run a test on an issue like this. If the #20 needle will push and pull the thread through, then I would use it. Continuing, if it didn't, then just experiment with a #22.
Last week, I was doing the same as you, #20/v92, while sewing on auto original that incorporated the stiff vinyl piping and my #20 had to be changed to a #22 to complete the job.
My experience, the number of layers is a factor but layers of what type of material is an even more critical issue.
It is all about the ability of the needle to pull the thread through what is being sewn.
I do subscribe to the theory of using the smallest needle required. Why pierce a bigger hole than necessary.
Along with this discussion, the harder (density) the materials, usually one will have more trouble with smaller needles because they will even break sometimes.
I have the long needle Pfaff, 1245, and with that machine, one sometimes is required to use the bigger size needles to avoid needle breakage.
Interesting subject, due to my diversified shop work, it often comes up. Not near as much with furniture work as other type of work.
Just try a #22 and see if it improves the situation. If it doesn't then you have a tension or threading problem, IMHO. At least that would be my next check.
You are sewing webbing, layers of boat cover material, plus binding with a #20, I do not automatically think it won't work because there is no plastic welt or foam backed materials involved.
Continue checking everything, tension, threading, needle size, it doesn't take much to interfere with a seaming process.
If you reach a point of no success, go back to square one, what I mean is to get back to basics in checking the machine with just two layers and 69 thread. If there is a problem, it might not even be thread or needle related.
Just don't give up!
Let us know,
Doyle
It hars to try different sizes when you have to buy boxes of 100 or more if you. Ant use rhem its a wayste.
Looks like i got if ok now here 8 layers more the. Id ever sew
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/IMG_1119.mp4
I i should have a new belt to install tomorow
for smaller needle boxes than lots of 100 suggest could try Ebay
'orange' is a pretty good brand
maybe your online friends could send some # 20s and 22s
DP x 17?
http://sewing-online.com.au/search_results.html
We have open boxes of needles & sell them one pack @ a time.I do not recommend Orange needles they seem to bend real easy,we used to sell them years ago & I know how they are.The Organ,Groz-Beckert & Schmetz are all good quality.
Bob
many thanx bud
inherited heaps of oranges but now in the know, thanks for the tip
love those pricy german beers, and dear needles, best too mate
i might have to write off to you soon for some new organs
ta
i'll need 'em ..
cheers
well I finnaly took the machine in my old guy is out of business. I found a new old retired guy who been repairing for 50 years.
wish me luck hes good
Hope he can get your machine issues taken care of.
Chris
Repair guys are a dying breed.
I have one in North Bay I refuse to go to. I bought my machine from him and have had him in several times to repair it. I have the Juki 1508 lu.
I bought it new in 2008 and had nothing but problems ..It broke down again yesterday so I had my guy take it to a fellow an hour and a half from here ...
He said the machine was never set up right in the first place and he had to do lots of adjustments. Now why didn't the guy here do it right ? He said he's been doing repairs for 30 yrs.
Tomorrow will be the test as to weather this guy out of town knows his stuff.
Down time is no picnic
that's why I have 3 my backup 111w and a juki but I like my oldest singer best
Quotewish me luck
I wouldn't sweat it Mike. Changing those belts is almost idiot proof. the last one I did was a bit of a pain because the gear puller I wanted to use is still back in Kenora but I had it done in under an hour.
Quote from: lc on January 09, 2013, 05:07:47 pm
He said the machine was never set up right in the first place and he had to do lots of adjustments. Now why didn't the guy here do it right ?
The Juki LU-1508 is easily one of the finest machines on the market. From reading your posts, it appears that either you just happened to get a "lemon", or it was never properly adjusted to begin with.
There are a lot of dealers nowadays whose expertise is limited to domestic machines. I had a serviceman in my shop many years ago who, after working on an old Singer for nearly 2 hours, finally slammed his screwdriver in disgust, and exclaimed "I don't even UNDERSTAND the purpose of a walking foot!!!"
I'm assuming that you're ready to replace the 1508 if it doesn't get fixed right this time. Don't blame you a bit. We all base our opinions about specific brands on our own personal experiences. In reading your other post, I see that you're considering a Reliable model. I've never seen one, but I haven't heard anything bad about them. I think that the Reliable is very close to some Juki models in design. Seems like I remember reading about a lawsuit.
I hope the new guy finally gets all the bugs out of your 1508 this time.
I have always liked the Juki . I have just finshed paperwork and ready to go give her a whirl .
Apparently the new guy that repaired it said he was not impressed that it wasn't set up right in the first place . To think since 2008 I have fought with the thing and I was dissapointed Juki may have had a lemon .
I will let you know if it all goes well .
I am seeking out what people think are good machines at the moment for getting a back up. I don't want a lemon . He had mentioned the Reliable was a fairly good one.
I have come across these names I had never heard of , thats why I like checking with you guys ,
Wish me luck ! I was taught on an old clunker of a Juki that rarely let me down, therefore I hope this repairman brings my faith back in this newer one .
I was using the juki today sofa , found I do like it its just my old singer must me to worn in its so soothe
I must say my Juki never ran right from day one.
The guy that fixed it said it wasn't set up right in the first place and as of today I can see he was dead on !
I cannot believe the difference in its perfomance when I used it today !
I could stomp on it , no thread break no locking up ! I have never been so impressed !! I had the man from here fixing it several times and it never ever ran as good as it did today . Thus I am taking to the man north of here from now on., it's well worth the trip.
Your right about the smoothness once they are broken in. The repairman told me mine needs more use to get broken in better .
I did not have one thread break all day and she ran as smooth as molasses.
Quote from: lc on January 10, 2013, 02:28:07 pmThus I am taking to the man north of here from now on., it's well worth the trip.
If it's finally adjusted properly, and the adjustments are all good and tight, you may never see that guy again.