Most of the boat covers I've made have been cockpit covers or snap on full covers for smaller boats. This is the boat I'm making a full cover for next week (minus the enclosure):
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd509%2Fstitchbiatch%2Fhydrasport.jpg&hash=74efec005f7eecfd3f814dfb02b9aa34)
Would you go over the rail in the front, or make cutouts for the bars? Also how far down would you bring the cover - it will have grommets for the tie downs.
Thanks for any advice. Pics of anything similar you've done would be really great too. Thanks!
Jo
It's a 1987 Hydrasport walk around 22'.
I'd go over the railings and down about 8 to 10 inches below the rubrail, maybe lower in the bow. With the undercut of the bow, a fitted nose will make it much less likely to blow off when trailering (I assume they want to trailer it). If it's just for storage, then maybe 8 inches all the way around.
June
As june id go over the rail and form fit to the hull to make it snug iver the. Ow id go over the rubrail about 10"
Also with a strap around the perimiter and strap downtot he trailer ot lift. Every 4 or 5' along the sides.
Here is a 30 grady i did a couple years ago
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi782.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy102%2FMike8560%2Fcovers%2Fimg_0881.jpg&hash=ec9494e89ac1ef7d8e05632df222c050) (http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/covers/img_0881.jpg)
This was a whaler center console but very simmilar
Bolth top
Suspended from the hard top also ihave a zipper on each side and break the. Over into 2 pieces to getaround the top or t top
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi782.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy102%2FMike8560%2Fcovers%2F970792bb.jpg&hash=38b5d69e675ec2025d44813744d899eb) (http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/covers/970792bb.jpg)
Thanks guys! Can I ask, how do you treat the bottom perimeter...how are the straps attached?
At the bottom i have a pocket with a stap arounf te perimeter eith a buckle to tighten snd buckle at the zippers.
For the strap mine shown go under the bost sns strap to the other side. Each strap is started eith a reinforcement mar of heavy fabric kike her ulite to stread the pull of the strap with a buckle on the otherside. I sew the long strap on the canal waterside of the boat then hanging down thebstrap csn be hooked underneath with a boat hook pull under to the dockside and secured.
Thanks Mike and June! Two more questions, if you don't mind: 1) The boat will be on a trailer for patterning. How would you pattern it - with the fabric blank and go all around with a ladder making marks and darts, or would you do the half patterning thing? and 2) I always find the back well where the motor is awkward to go around. There's always wire stuff in the way, and I never know if I'm cutting too far back, know what I mean? Is there a rule? I'm not even sure how a finished cover should look back there.
I just cut as close to the motor and harnes as i can fit the cover
Simetes i need a seperate hole for the harmess.
Theres are the best pics i have.
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/covers/img_0321.jpg
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/covers/100_0489.jpg
I'd do as Mike and June: but; inside the bottom hem I'd put 1" poly web and a ratchet handle to tighten it on the dock side of the transom. If you don't remember my photos and description, let me know and I will repost.
Hi Darren,
I don't remember this discussion previously, so yes, that'd be great if you could post pictures! Thanks.
It was talked about wuite awhile ago jojo.
I recal just had a source for a stainless steele rat het like a carvo strap with ratchet she sed it o. The strap around the bottom of the cover.
I might do as Mike along with June: but; inside the lower hem I might put 1" poly web and also a ratchet handle to make tighter it for the dock side in the transom. If you do not remember my photos along with description, ok, i'll know and Let me repost.
Ok, so now the customer thinks he'd like to be able to have the cover on while it's on the water! So, if the cover comes over that rail on the front, won't it be really hard to snap it on the front part??
Having it on in the water changes everything. You're going to need some attachment to the boat. How much
depends on the weather in your area. Forget about drawcord or webbing in the hem. Your customer will hate
putting in on and could risk falling in while trying. To me, using drawcord or webbing in the hem should be left
to boats that stay on the trailer when not in use.
I've done full snap on covers like this before and have made them in sections so it's not all one big giant piece
to put on. The boats were kept on lifts. If the boat has a fat rub rail you can put snaps on the underside of the
rub rail. Never put snaps in the hull below the rubrail. You don't know how much I hate it when I've seen
someone do that.
Thanks DBR. Why not snaps below the rubrail...aesthetic reasons or is there something i should know? This boat does have a nice fat rub rail, so it will be easy to drill the snaps into it, so I think I will go that route.
In the wayer i agree no cord snaps. I ised to have a shop on a lake across from a marina. Many boats had drawcord cover and the nex weekend they came to find the cover half blow off the boat and. Sme to me cor a snap on cover. Ive done as dbr also with sections and it was alot easier to install
This was a silverton window back cover cabin top forward rnen frim the cabin base over the gunnels around the raling. With snaps
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/covers/100_0363.jpg
Looks great, Mike, but I don't see the snaps?
Jojo - You don't want to put snaps anywhere they can catch on something. I've seen boats that had them
installed in the hull a few inches below the rub rail and were ripped out when the boat laid up against a dock.
Also when rafting together it puts them in a position to cause damage to another boat if the captain doesn't
get the fenders tied on before approaching. I know it sounds stupid but I've seen a lot of stupid stuff happen
on the water and in marinas in my time.
If you go the rubrail route they have to go on the underside only if the rail is thick enough. You don't want to put
them on the face of the rail because they can snap a line just when you're trying to land that big one. If the
customer is an avid fisher and you must do a snap on cover I would go a couple of inches above the rub rail.
That leaves a comfortable space to grab the edge of the cover when taking it off but low enough so it doesn't
put the snaps in the way of a fishing line just like on the face of the rubrail.
In cases like this I explain the pros and cons of each method to my customer and let them make the decision.
Your right DBR i forgot this was about 5 years old.
Everything snaped on down tot he skirt that gyps snaped to the mIn.covers. Ut no snaps were used in the hull this wasnt to be used in the water i forgot. But there could have been ive install them just under the rubrail
As this whaler. http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/covers/ttopmooring2s.jpg
I dont like itnas salt. Will mess them up. And i r install just s ove the rubrail better. But never on a fishing boat
M ike,
Is that cover secure enough for travel (freeway speeds) with just the snaps alone, or did you also add something (like tabs with grommets) for extra security?
Jojo that cover was done in 3 parts one a normal. O kpit cover over thebglass to the stern. Then a cover that snaped on also covering the cabin. Tyen a skirt that snaped to thoose covers and overed the gunnels down to tue rubrails that had ties to hols it down this was only for drystorage in the summer the boat would never be traileres it was 40+ feet. Onnthe trailerei g point though i have made many cockpit cover that just snapped on then mid 90s ecerybody wanted to cover the glass also making the job more difficult and more money. The covers that covered the glass i found were more probe to come off at highway speeds so i began add g a couple
Locking fastners on them. I had a dealor delevering a new. Boat that lost i on the road somewhere. And had to make a new one.
Thanks Mike, that's a good idea...don't know why I didn't think of it!
Quote from: jojo on October 07, 2012, 09:18:33 am
M ike,
Is that cover secure enough for travel (freeway speeds) with just the snaps alone, or did you also add something (like tabs with grommets) for extra security?
I never tell a customer they can tow a boat with a cover on. Especially one with snaps. I've seen boats that had the snaps ripped out of the hull because the customer towed with it on.
You have no idea how fast the customer will drive or in what weather conditions. Bad idea to tell a customer
they can tow with a cover on. I won't even tell them they can tow with a strap down storage cover on. I know
there are companies that offer trailerable covers but I've fixed a bunch of those.
Ya its never a good idea to trailer with a canvas on its like leaving your canvas on in a hurricane