http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hew8JMgJXpk
Here's a video showing using basting tape to make welt cord.
I don't see any advantage to doing it this way. I sew mine and then run it through the serger without any thread to cut a perfect 1/2" lip.
I also often sew the welt cord without any presewing.
Any advantages to using basting tape?
gene
I think the problem they're trying to solve is the welting stitch showing after sewing the plate(s) to the boxing. I alleviate this problem simply by sewing the welt loose then tightening up on it when attaching the boxing - in those cases where I don't sew all three (plate/boxing/welt) in one fell swoop. Looks like a waste of time and seamstick to me.
However, the one thing that struck me in this video is the fact that they apparently haven't see the Youtube video on how to make continuous bias without all the fuss of joining individual strips.
June
I.never sew it all in one fell swoop. Like you junei sewit loosethen tighter. But sometimesigoof and have to doo er.
i tried it once, it just took forever.
have you got a link to the continuous weld vid June that sounds interesting ?
Rich
I don't make the welting up beforehand, either. I cut it and fold it over the foam insert as I stitch it to the tops/bottoms of the cushions. I usually stitch it to the plates before adding the boxing. Sometimes I'll do that with a welting foot that is slightly larger than the correct size, that keeps the stitching well away from the final line, but I don't usually have any trouble burying the first line of stitching. I've done it in one fell swoop, too, but prefer the other method.
And I've never tried making the bias in a continuous run, either. Actually, I did try it once many years ago and it was not a success. (not quite sure what I didn't do properly, but I definitely got it wrong!).
I'm taking a class soon where the technique will be demonstrated and I'll be sure to pay attention!
continuous welt cord
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTWbRPv9HZo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRmMEsto6ks&feature=channel&list=UL
I have this on a video that I bought about making slip covers. I use this technique for all my slip covers. This is the lady who is running the slip covers classes.
Gene
Thanks for posting that, Gene. It's not the method I tried oh those many moons ago, and it's easier I can't wait to try it on my next project in my own shop!
Still, though, I get a lot of flack "from the man" about welting strips having too many joins along a long run. That may not be an issue on smaller cushions but some of the berthing cushions I do are really long (7'+) and Boss is frequently (what I consider) nit-picky about things like that.
I sew my welt to the panel all in the same pass. Then I add the boxing on the second pass.
I've never had a problem with stitches showing. BUT it might be because I only use fiber welt cord. I know that foam welt cord can be a little trickier.
For furniture work, I take a 54" X 54" piece to make bias welt strips. I cut diagonally across the piece. So my largest strip is approx. 80" long, then they get progressively smaller. I use the small ones on short runs around arm panels, and the longer runs on cushions. I use those leftover triangle pieces for arm panels and skirt kick panels. Joining the strips diagonally leaves a barely noticeable seam IMO.
When my mother and grandmother used to do it, you could stand 10 feet away from the sofa, and count the welt seams (and there were PLENTY of them).
I going to have to try that continous method just for fun, but I don't think I'll ever make it my standard procedure. But it is a nice way to get a lotta welt out of a little fabric.
I made a set of V berth cushions this morning and thought about cutting the bias that way but did it the old way because it worked out most efficiently with the remaining fabric. I used the foam welt and it is a drag to turn corners with the stuff; esp. if the angle is an acute one.
All this talk of bias welt has me wondering how much more fabric you add to an estimate for the welting. Depending on the size of the pcs. and the number of them I'll add a yard/yard and half.
Doese cutting on the bias make any difference using marine vinyl? I cut it straicht off the roll to save material.
And i make the welt then sew in onto the plate the. Sew on the boxing.
I did use last week that 2 color plpiping method stephen showed and it worked great.
photo (http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/photo-6.jpg)
I think there is a little more stretch on the bias, Mike, but not enough to make the sort of difference you see with wovens. I, too, cut either across the goods or down the roll when working with vinyls.
On most fabrics I cut my welt up the bolt to get seam free lengths. But you cant do that with a stripe that also runs up the bolt or your welts will come out all different colors. Unless you pick one color and make contrast welting.
Sometimes I'll cut my welts railroaded but once again, with a stripe you will have to match all the cording. Nightmare.
Whether I cut on the bias or straight I like to sew the pieces together at an angle using a small stitch. Then when sewing flip the two pieces of salvage away from each other. This makes a nice tight joint that is barely noticeable. Some may say flipping the salvage in this manner will allow the welt to peek through but I don't have that problem. Always try to avoid seams on the front of the furniture. I had a complaint once about a skirt welt.
Like Sofa I usually manage to use the scraps caused by bias welt cutting. I would only add about 1 yard for a sofa, maybe a bit more if it makes you feel more confident.
Quote from: kodydog on June 16, 2012, 05:26:56 pm
I like to sew the pieces together at an angle using a small stitch. Then when sewing flip the two pieces of salvage away from each other. This makes a nice tight joint that is barely noticeable.
Same here. And when I'm sewing the boxing on, I really push the welt joint up against the welt foot as it passes under so it will really hug the welt, making the joint even less noticeable.
I agree. If you join the pieces with a small tight stitch, you shouldn't have a problem with welt cord peeking through.
I don't
always cut my welt on the bias. If it's a plain pattern that doesn't matter, I go up the roll like Kody. Sometimes I cut my welt the entire length of the roll.
I
do always try to cut double welt on the bias because it's better about making drastic bends without any rippling.
Just because Kody and me have a similar technique, I hope that no one thinks that I'm asserting this to be the definitive way. I love that we can share our methods whether same or different.
I buy pre-made welt as much as possible.The time saved is huge,and you bill the customer accordingly.Pre-made vinyl welt is already pre-slit which is very nice.
Geoff
www.gscmarine.com
I sleay end up eith a color that dosent offer premade do i never bothered even tring any
In the 7 years I've been doing this I've never bought pre-made welt. I always make welting from whatever vinyl I've been using. I'll use whatever's a close match for hidem since it's underneath, but for welting, it has to match the top plate. So... I make it from scratch.
What I'm wanting to know is who has devised a method of sawing off the end of a roll to make contrast welt - i.e., blue or black or whatever. I've never tried the jigsaw yet, but am about to. Would a foam saw be better? I have to believe it would save a huge amount of time to simply cut a slice off the end of a roll.
June
White premade welt is a must for me. Just a time saver. I do too many small cooler seats and backs , gunwhale pads , yadda yadda , to be bothered making white welt . Any other color i make . No right or wrong , Just saying .
I use do many different shades of white s premade roll would show up off. Olor so like june i nust make mine. And june i tried cutting off a dnd once using my hop saw i use to cut tubing.
It did work but the edge was not perfect a bit crude. I dont. Other now. Ause i have. One to. Utting it close lately and if i precut of a fdw inches i may run short. Imlike to fit my lieces on the vinyl snd cut the lardge pieces first