Hey guys,
Just curious..have any of you used both the dot method for patterning a bimini and the old-fashioned method of clamping the fabric blank to the frame and drawing the lines and marking the darts? If so, which is better? It seems like the old fashioned way eliminates a lot of steps, but maybe the dot method is more precise? Or can you get the same exact results both ways?
I've never tried to use a canvas blank for anything other than very large, very simple covers. Everything gets patterned in plastic except for those VERY rare occasions where I'm forced to use the original as a pattern.
June
I use plastic for all patterns except for cockpit and bow covers. I use a blank for those.
Quote from: JuneC on June 06, 2012, 07:29:15 am
I've never tried to use a canvas blank for anything other than very large, very simple covers. Everything gets patterned in plastic except for those VERY rare occasions where I'm forced to use the original as a pattern.
June
Same here. ;D
Last 'blank' I did was a dinghy cover, would have taken so much plastic plus, 'surprise' they were in a rush to go fishing, in the canary islands ??? So it was much quicker.
Suzi
Hmm...so far nobody's for old-school. That's the way I learned, and was wondering if anybody does it this way anymore.
The first shop I worked for patterned everything with plastic. A bimini would be patterned in a number of pcs. corresponding the the spans between bows. Seams were directly over the bows, stitched and then topstitched with the bow pockets inserted at that time. The side reinforcements were added and the raw eges were bound. They fit beautifully. So did the dodgers. My experience in clothing and tailoring made sewing the curved seams really easy; "easing" and stretching is part and parcel of garment work since bodies are curved.
In my present job I am not permitted to make either biminis or dodgers. In the years I've been there I've only seen dodgers, side curtains, bridge covers, console covers, etc. patterned with plastic. in short, only those items that have such strangely curved shapes that working with the goods is too difficult. Biminis, mooring covers, and front covers for "bow riders" are patterned with "blanks". Blanks are taped with 3/4" tape and then double stitched, with two parallel rows of stitching, never stitched and then topstitched. I'll be frank, the fit of the biminis is piss-poor compared shop #1. The seams show wear after 3-5 yrs. (thread failure which is predictable and completely avoidable!), the bow pockets never are really taut (and there is always a break in the stitching at the curve of the bow, where it has been "fitted" after the pocket was put in place), and the darts over the bows always look messy (to me). Moreover, I've seen them sag over time; a couple of times to the extent that summer storms have puddled water on them and they've collapsed completely. I understand that that may have been due to improper crown on the frames, but the bottom line is that they just don't fit as well as the first method I've outlined.
But, I'm not permitted to do any of that sort of work, so what do I know?
Bobbin, you are permitted and even encouraged to come here and pattern and sew all the biminis you want! Thanks for the feedback.
I used to use a blank for everything. I make a top then fit s vinyl eindow a liece at a time But i had a smsll shop on the water when i first started. Bere in florida i sill still do a blank if im making a new canvas top on. Boat But if its a co koit cover and the boat is on a lift it next to imposible to blank without walking on water. Just this morning i made a plastic pattern for s deckbost bow cocer and. O koit cover makeing it one half at a time i can still stand in the cockpit and pattern the oppisite side with some streaching. Being 6'4" helps. And windows and a top. An be pattern from in the boat one at a time alot easier then if you sere patterning a window to a top that installed with it off you can stand up and stick your head sbove the frame with a stool june ;) and still get the job done. So each method has it place ges the plastic id more step but somtimes the only way. And like peppy ill only pattern half the cover. Ive never only pattern half a top and enclosure yet.
Personally I think if thats the way you learned why not do it that way, you have a starting point develop your own techniques from there.
I have no 'formal' training just trial, error & dvds ;D
DOT ish method works for me.
Suzi
I make a lot of smaller boat covers 17' to 24', I tried the pattern method on covers and don't like it so I use blanks on covers and plastic patterns on biminis and enclosures. Same here on the training- trial, error, lots of errors, DVD's, and of course this awesome forum!
i do both methods and the way to decide which one to use
is the Dot pattern method makes far less waste, and it is easy .
the blanket method will make far more waste, is slightly harder to
get right and will require an extra trip to the boat but in my opinion you can get a better looking top.
A method one guy here in the Uk uses is he makes the whole cover
from plastic and even sews it together, the plastic cover is fitted to the boat
so he can get all the window placements marked and any openings etc
then he cuts it apart and makes his top from the pattern cover.
Rich
Back ehen i first starter as i said i patterened each piece with the finnish product on the bost like this carver was rugbt behind my shop i patterned the top eith a blank. Then each window id sew the zipper on the straight top the. Hang it mark the curves and finnish it
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Flybridge/38carver.jpg
The first crnter console cover eith a t top to work around was there also and i tried to lay the can as over the onsole anc try to mark where i needed holes for the tubes but got them wring snd had to make several repairs. With plastic i just tape up a mistake and cut it correctl in canvas NO goof ups so each has there place. Id rather all day long fir a cockpit and bow cover with a blank sitting on a trailor.