Hello, My name is Joe. Picked up an old Consew 226R a couple weeks ago and have been playing around.
Never really used a machine before. I want to start a business selling very specialized canvas type pieces, but I would also like to do marine vinyl as hobby income.
Anyway, here are some pics of my machine and what I've done so far, don't be too hard on me. :)
Joe
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n8N31cCCGNA/TsdZQqFDPpI/AAAAAAAAEhY/8S2YPa3OrHA/s800/IMAG0259.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6i0ssGhSaH0/TsiQfh_b-cI/AAAAAAAAEhg/V1FdRL6mFLg/s800/IMAG0263.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gHpCKHjMehU/TsiQi6BmgvI/AAAAAAAAEhk/j5L7GFig-MU/s800/IMAG0262.jpg)
The pics should be 800 wide, I noticed pics show up small in everyone's postings, why is this?
Maybe these are clickable.
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qpzTu1x24aDrBKW8WCHw0tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iQvsWO1v3AGdEusvB0GSo9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X7uVfrlhoMSds95YdhfvDdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)
^ 3 images above this sentence hidden for some reason ^
Here are links:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qpzTu1x24aDrBKW8WCHw0tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iQvsWO1v3AGdEusvB0GSo9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X7uVfrlhoMSds95YdhfvDdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
I just spent nearly 3 hours working on a cushion for my sailboat only to realize I traced the foam upside down and created a mirror of what I needed. Partly because the boat is new to me and I'm unfamiliar with it and party because my head is up my arse. I need to learn when to call it quits for the night.
Thanks
Joe
Hi Joe, welcome to the forum. The key to good cushion and upholstery work is practice and attention to detail, and a willingness to fuss and "not settle" for mediocrity. Looks like you're off to a good start.
One of the things I find toughest about working with vinyls is getting the right amount of snugness in corners, esp. when recovering old foam esp. when making cushions (as opposed to stapling over a solid base). That wrap around bucket doesn't look as though it will be any fat lady's dream. June and Mike crank out the most beautiful vinyl stuff I've seen in a long time.
As for cutting the mirror image of what you needed... lol, we've all done that, I'd wager! The real trick is to not do it too many times. I have learned to carefully label all pattern pcs. carefully because it's really easy to make that mistake when you're interrupted and come back to the project. And it can be expensive when you're working on a cockpit, V berth, or salon where the backs of the cushions require bevelling.
Welcome Joe to one of the greatest forums on the internet. :)
Your going to find this site loaded with experts and masters of their craft and the awesome thing about it is that they are all willing to help and share their expertise.
My first boat cushion experience was not a pleasant one. I screwed around with them for a long time and about went out of my mind. I am a perfectionist of sorts so in reality I drove myself around the bend sewing them. But like Bobbin stated, you really have to demand a lot from yourself in order to produce quality cushions.
Your first attempt is good. I can see a lot of good sewing in some areas and of course, like all beginners I can see a few mistakes. That comes with the territory. Upholstery work is one big huge learning process and your going to ruin fabric and drive yourself nuts while your learning the trade.
Just hang in there and keep demanding the best of your sewing and assembly. One other tidbit, sew and keep sewing, its the way we all learned.
Best of luck and be sure to jump on here with all your questions. Some of the resident experts here will always help out.
Happy Turkey day BTW. :)
Chris
ThatT bucket seat is hard to learn on getting the top boxing curvEd correctly and not wrikled is tricky at first. And the inside curve of thbackside is even harder if you didn't have the tuck n roll to make it look good. To make a edjucational complaint to avoid one from a customer Thwre is a l
but of wrinkle punkering on the seat cushion on the right corner And the stripes apear to be a bit wider with the back and seat ne t to each other That may be the camera angle
I'd be happy just starting out as you keep at it !
Your first attempts show tremendous promise. You stated that you want to do specialized canvas pieces for your business, and marine vinyl as hobby income.
There was a time way back when that I wanted to do auto/marine as hobby income. It turned out to be a LOT MORE hobby than income. People like June and Mike certainly know how to make a living at it. But I think that unless you dive into it "whole hog", it will be a hobby, and not an income.
Welcome. Keep the posts coming.
Thanks for the compliments. The seat bottom was a learning experience, that's for sure.
I spent about 6 hours on that piece correcting most mistakes as I went.
The stripes are wider than those on the back and those on the original seat bottom, by accident.
I only recovered the seat cushion, haven't got to the back yet.
They are my seats btw, they were free and I'm using them on a 13' checkmate I'm restoring.
I sewed the welt myself, and it's sewn to the cord in most places tighter than the material sewn to it resulting in a lot of visible thread.
I'll use white thread and possibly pre-made welting to reduce the problem, if only for a handicap as I get more experienced.
It's joann vinyl, couldn't even find a uv rating for it, just bought 3 yards to play/learn with.
Out of curiosity what do you guys think I paid for the machine? It was a lot more than I planned to spend, but I wanted something solid that would last me a while. It has a new clutch motor and came from a very old/reputable sewing sales shop. No extras, just what you see. I really don't think I got ripped off, but I don't think it was a great deal either.
Joe
6 hours isn't really so bad... I've spent that much time on some seats and I'm experienced!
Actually Joann's vinyl is fine, as long as it's their marine vinyl.
Good luck!
I probably wouldn't mind using it on my own boat knowing I can re-do them in a few years for very cheap.
The brand is Spradling, and it's the proquinal. No info found anywhere on spradling proquinal. Not sure how great it can be at $8.00 a yard, then again how much can any vinyl vary subjected to such elements.
Headed out of town, more pics to come over the next couple weeks.
Thanks
Joe
Just as important as the vinyl is the thread. be sure your using a good bonded Poly thread or your work will be for naught. :)
Chris
Thoose seats sure did look familiar Here is a checkmate i did a couple years ago probly a 20'
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Upholstery/100_1728.jpg
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Upholstery/100_1729.jpg
and I've bought used machine heads for $800 a a few hundred more for a table and motor.
And you'll want to get a heat gun alot
of little wrinle can be eliminated with one many here use a steamer to
do the same thing but I like m heat gun thoose wripples
you have on the seat edge are a alinment problem if you had a small one a with some heat it would just dissapere. And as far as the small pix there is some code here that dosent allow full sixe pix photo bucket has a code to post expandable thumbnails or just a direct link is easy.
I've done similar ones
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1020.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf328%2Fpeppypower%2FBoats%2Fth_DSC00858.jpg&hash=507b571c75dd6f0ce6cea327b9c75434) (http://s1020.photobucket.com/albums/af328/peppypower/Boats/?action=view¤t=DSC00858.jpg)
If I was you I'd simplify the backs. Use heat sealed stuff instead of tuck and roll, or just just do a plain back.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1020.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf328%2Fpeppypower%2FBoats%2Fth_PB250017.jpg&hash=1698691d4447aceb34142570dd54edcf) (http://s1020.photobucket.com/albums/af328/peppypower/Boats/?action=view¤t=PB250017.jpg)
Either way I would definatly run the border right into the red/black stripe and not turn first like they did.
Thats a tough one to cut your teeth on, good luck!
I would pay up to $500 for the machine you pictured. I would have been looking for bobbins, and maybe a couple of feet. Bonus would have been a manual and (praise be!) and parts book. Cash on the barrel head is a powerful thing, And I have a decent idea what I'm looking for/at.
price I steed was what I paid at a dealer Sanford sewing when I bought a new. Juki.
$800 for the machine and table with a new motor installed. What'ya think?
Joe
I would not have paid that much money, although it is a very serviceable machine and the table is a nice one.
I just paid $400 for a similar Juki. It doesn't have the wrap around table. No new motor and the machine overall shows more ware. Doesn't matter what you paid if you plan to keep it 20 or 30 years. When you start sewing professionally it'll pay for itself.
Good luck in your new venture.
Did you use a welt foot to make the welting on your cushions? If you don't have a properly sized foot and welt cord insert, making welt look good is going to be a real challenge. Also, if you bought your materials at JoAnn's, as far as I know, they don't sell the foam core welting that you'd need - only thing I've seen there is the fiber stuff you'd use on furniture or pillows.
To help with the thread showing, try turning the piece over and sewing from the other side after the first pass. Two passes on opposite sides can help tighten up the cord. Eventually you'll get it done in one pass.
June
Excellent points from Kody (about the machine) and from June (welt insert and feet).
I wander between marine work (at my straight job) and interior work (in my own shop) and I have welting insert for both exterior and interior applications. Interior work frequently calls for larger diameter welting and I have welting feet in a variety of sizes; this allows me to welt a project with minimal frustration.
Since you're new to the wonderful world of upholstery take your time and add things as you find you need them. Welting feet can be expensive on first glance, but if you need a certain size the money plunked down will be money well spent. I would counsel you to add both a right and left zipper foot to your aresenal, too. Zipper feet allow you get right in close to whatever you need to and they are worth the money.
Welt can be done without a welt foot with a little practice I first made some making due and just got better I wouldn't want to have to change feet now to do differnt things.
I made this vid with normal feet sewing one handed
http://s782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/?action=view¤t=Sun6Nov.mp4
Mike, how do you insert the welt into the seam and get the stitch line to fall between the insert and the line of stitching you demonstrated in the link? I sew the welt to the top/bottom piece and then join the boxing. I don't prestitch the welt before applying it to the top/bottom. How do you get a nice tight welt when the left side of the presser foot is so wide?
I'm all about adding time saving feet to my collection. But I come from a production background and doing welting the way you do would be a waste of time in a production setting; it's way too fumbly for rank beginners to the world of stitching. The price of welting feet and the seconds required to change them is well worth the money!
oh I agree bobbing for a novice a welt foot where you could just run a big length is the way to go. I took me alot of practice to get good. Two jaded I don't have to keep stoping to hold ahead of the needle.
But as I find it so easy this way I would want to change feet to make it and then remove them to sew a zipper on the boxing ect.
On the wide left side of the foot it ride on top of the poly filler the skin y center foot witht the hole Wichita the needle passes pull the vinyl don't tight around the filler I always sew my premade welt onto my top plate and then sew on the boxing. s car as stitch spacing I do it by feel I like to mKe the piping stitch a little loose the the remaing sitched are tighter to the left covering all the stitches Do you need yo sew the welt strip to the top ate then add the poly filler wrapi g the stop arou f it presewn to the plate? I'd like
to
see that
Ooh, baby, you're good! it takes a practiced hand to do that without screwing it up. Power to you, I'm impressed (mightily!).
But I'm for the easy way, buy the welting feet, lol.
June, I made the welt using foam core I got from a local shop using what I think is a zipper foot just like in mikes video, just not quite as fast. I'm not sure how much faster it could be with a pipe foot, just won't require quite as much attention.
Like he said I also found it should be done a little looser. I don't plan on using the cushion I made, it was learning project, the vinyl was on sale at joanns for about $8.00 yard. I also used thin upholstery thread from joanns that isn't going to cut it (see below).
With that said I would much rather buy pre-made. After looking at marine fabrics at the local shop (DLT, I think they are a sponsor here) i'm starting to think joanns Spradling vinyl isn't so bad. They sell Spradling for $4-$5 more per yard than joann assuming it's the same stuff. I'm going to see if they can order welt to match. The only advantage I can see to making it is that you can make it much looser and that would probably be a good handicap for me.
When you guys say welting feet do you mean a piping foot that has a grove to keep the piping straight or a foot that has provisions to help feed the material and cord almost automatically? Do they make such a device?
There are some deals on feet on ebay, piping feet at the shop I bought my machine are about $45 each, I think I can get by with what I have for all the (personal) projects I have lined up.
After reading/watching njpatriots thread/videos, I must have gotten jinxed because I started having the same problem. I was out of town for a week and when I got back I went and got some 92 poly thread, I sewed a few test pieces and everything was fine. I decided to play around with some sew foam I got and started having issues. I spent about 4 hours making changes trying to figure out the problem. I was having very loose stitches or getting major knots down below. I took it to the shop this morning and the old man alerted me that the bobbin cover plate was turned around the wrong way. I had never looked at the under side of the cover and he showed me the clearances/relief cuts. He did some tension adjustments on the top thread and it worked fine, haven't put it back in my table to try it yet, hopefully that was the only problem. After I left the shop I remembered that I tried sewing without the cover very slowing to try to identify the problem and it still knotted up on me.
While trying to diagnose the problem last night I thought that perhaps the top thread tension was too high because the top thread was breaking at times when things appeared ok down below. With the tension dics fully loosened there was still quite a bit of tension. I noticed on the flat post on the front of the head with the three holes that there are deep grooves worn in it. The smaller thread I was using before went right through them fine but the larger 92 thread was hanging a bit. I need to get a new one... or do I? The old man at the shop I bought the machine from only uses the first and last hole and threads barber pole style. Every resource I have seen online says to loop straight through all the holes. I mentioned this to him and his reply was "who you gonna believe"...."There's lots of information out there, but it's not always right"..."You can usually just run the thread through one of the holes and it will feed fine".
He's tough to argue with and he helped me for free today, so I dropped the issue. I guess I'm going to stick to his barber method until I get a new post, because the grooves are deep as I mentioned and even if it feeds ok it appears to be abrasive to the thread.
The man who owns the shop is quite a character. I went and looked at the machine twice before coming back to get it. On the second trip I brought material to test and asked him once more that everything had been checked and gone through to be sure I wouldn't have any surprises. His reply was not yes, or let me have a look at it but simply... "Son, I've been in business 61 years."
Quote from: TheJoe on December 03, 2011, 04:48:53 pm
When you guys say welting feet do you mean a piping foot that has a grove to keep the piping straight or a foot that has provisions to help feed the material and cord almost automatically?
Both the front and rear feet have a groove cut out for the welt cord to pass through. They don't have any provisions to feed the welt and fabric.
Like this set:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-226-226-SINGLE-NEEDLE-WALKING-FOOT-WELT-CORDING-FOOT-SET-1-4-/290613618097?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a9ebe5b1
I don't usually run my thread through all 3 holes either. But sometimes with a lighter weight thread, I'll run it through a few extra holes just to add a little "drag". Conversely, if I have some thread that's a little too waxy, I'll just run it through just 1 hole to reduce "drag".
Also like sofa just wrap it through a couple holes.
Check the post te tention disks are on I've had the thread cut halfway through before
and the thread will cut in the groove
Just a thought here on tension....2 holes vs 3. Depending on thread thickness there does need to be enough 'pretension' or 'drag' through your barber pole (or thread guide) to keep the thread down in between those tension discs.
Another random thought here. I've seen some folks run their thread around that little post in the tension disc assembly. Never could figure that one out unless maybe there is a variety of configurations depending on maker.
Looking at piping/cording feet on ebay, I am seeing two different types, One type has the entire cord running through the front foot only and the other has the cord going between the two feet.
Here are the two types:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-225-226-WELT-FOOT-SET-4-EACH-WW8-/290432882605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f2617ad
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-206RB-225-226-PIPING-WALKING-FOOT-SET-6-PAIR-/390369368952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae3d3db78
Any specific uses for either type or advantages to one type over the other?
Thanks for all the help and encouragement guys.
Joe
I like the first type myself. Seems to make corners easier.
Quote from: fingers on December 04, 2011, 06:01:34 pm
Another random thought here. I've seen some folks run their thread around that little post in the tension disc assembly. Never could figure that one out unless maybe there is a variety of configurations depending on maker.
That one comes up often. The short answer is that it is NOT necessary to run the thread around that little pin. Many people do, though.
Quote from: TheJoe on December 04, 2011, 06:08:18 pm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-206RB-225-226-PIPING-WALKING-FOOT-SET-6-PAIR-/390369368952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae3d3db78
I've always used this type, And maybe this would be better for a beginner.
Quote from: TheJoe on December 04, 2011, 06:08:18 pm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-225-226-WELT-FOOT-SET-4-EACH-WW8-/290432882605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f2617ad
Recently had a chance to use this type and don't see much difference.
Way back when, I bought one of these sets and haven't looked back. This is GREAT for cornering. Note how the foot is cut away so you can turn on a dime.
http://www.cutsewservice.com/images/Sets/48851.jpg
Well worth the money. Maybe Greg or Bob could hook you up with a set like this.
June
Quote from: kodydog on December 04, 2011, 06:16:06 pm
Quote from: TheJoe on December 04, 2011, 06:08:18 pm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-206RB-225-226-PIPING-WALKING-FOOT-SET-6-PAIR-/390369368952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae3d3db78
I've always used this type, And maybe this would be better for a beginner.
Quote from: TheJoe on December 04, 2011, 06:08:18 pm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-225-226-WELT-FOOT-SET-4-EACH-WW8-/290432882605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f2617ad
Recently had a chance to use this type and don't see much difference.
Boy, I've had MY head down in a hole! That first set, with the groove ONLY in the inside foot....I've NEVER seen before in my life (I'm sure that I've seen them on E-Bay, and just didn't notice the difference).
I've bought and sold over 2 dozen machines over the last 30 years, and I've never had a set like that come through my shop. I've only seen the 2nd type with the groove in both feet.
KODY: So they both perform about the same?
Can you think of any reason that I might want to add a set like the first ones to my arsenal?
Quote from: sofadoc on December 04, 2011, 07:43:28 pm
Can you think of any reason that I might want to add a set like the first ones to my arsenal?
Only because you are the "King of Unusual Tools"
But seriously, like Paul said this set may do corners better
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-225-226-WELT-FOOT-SET-4-EACH-WW8-/290432882605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f2617ad
But then Junes link looks
REAL interesting.
Quote from: kodydog on December 04, 2011, 07:59:47 pm
But seriously, like Paul said this set may do corners better
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-225-226-WELT-FOOT-SET-4-EACH-WW8-/290432882605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f2617ad
But then Junes link looks REAL interesting.
Yeah, that's the only kind I've ever seen or used. I do have some with the back corner cut out like June linked. But since I only sew fiber-flex (tissue) welt that bends easily, I don't get any advantage from them.
To me, the ones with the corner cut out don't hug thin fabrics on long straight runs as well.
Thanks for the advice guys, you've all been very helpful!
I ordered these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-225-226-WELT-FOOT-SET-4-EACH-WW8-/290432882605?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f2617ad
Joe