I got through my boat project (mostly) and this really wasn't an issue I couldn't deal with, but now I'm working on other stuff and it is becoming problematic. How can I get my machine to start more consistantly. It seems like I can give it the same amount of petal every time and sometimes it will go slow like I want, other times it takes off and I don't have tome to manipulate the piece I'm sewing. This isn't a big deal on straight line stuff but these barstools I'm working on are getting jacked up! I have found sort of a work-around by giving it very little petal and starting the wheel by hand, almost giving it a running start, but then I only have one hand on my material. I thought it would go away with practice, or I would get used to the machine enough to overcome it but it hasn't and I can't.
Thanks in advance for the help guys!
Although I am not a pro I have owned and used several machines. Look at you motor does it say 1750RPM or 3500RPM?
Most high speed single needle machines compount feed (needle feed) I see use the 3500RPM motor and I also find them almost impossible to control, but this is the normal motor.
If you can't work one like I can't get a servo motor or a 1750RPM clutch motor.
If you have a walking foot with a 1750rpm motor I don't have much advice other than get a servo motor or learn to control yours, I find these easy to control. It's the 3500rpm motors I can't deal with. There are many suggestions others might give for how to do this. You can try to loosen the best or change pulleys.
You need to master the double foot technique ie: foot at the front of the treadle to press down and start the machine going while the foot on the rear of the treadle acts as sort of a braking foot. It takes some practice that's for sure.
If it's an old machine, I'm wondering if the motor has an EXTERNAL clutch? These tend to be worn out.
A quick adjustment that might help is to loosen the belt until it almost slips.
Quote from: slow96z on October 18, 2011, 02:15:52 pm
I thought it would go away with practice, or I would get used to the machine enough to overcome it but it hasn't and I can't.
How long have you been at it? It takes more than a week or two. I've been doing this for the past 6 years and I still frequently start the machine with one hand on the flywheel. I don't even think about it anymore - it just happens. On curved seams, it really helps to have snipped the curves and stapled the layers together first. Staple in the edges, of course, where the holes won't be seen.
June
I was going to say what sofa said. I tightened my belt once on my old Singer and the the thing went hog wild. No control at all.
I know exactly what you mean. I am a newbie, been at this about a year and I have had the same problem. From what Ive read on the forum a servo is the way to go to get much easier control. However if this isnt in your budget, its not in mine you can do a couple of things. First get comfortable at the machine, I cant give you detailed instructions but Darren posted a very good instruction in an earlier post. Next you can change the pulley on the motor to a 2"or 50 mm. These are available from Gregg at keystone. They are a supplier listed at the top of the page. This also requires that you change the belt. Lastly I know everyone is different but it took me hours and hours of practice to learn to control the speed of my machine. I believe this is what June is saying. Practice, practice, practice.
I haven't been at it for years, but with the amount of sewing I did on the boat job I am comfortable in saying I'm familiar with the machine. I'll loosen the belt and see what that gets me, I did tighten it as best I could when I got the machine.....could be too much.
A shortcut that would reduce the learning curve would be to purchase a servo motor they start and run much smoother, many people say they can sew as slow as one stitch at a time! A good source for a new motor would be Bob Kovar at Toledo Sewing Machine Company who advertises on this board under "Suppliers". Bob Kovar will also be able to offer you additional advice, you will go away with a wealth of knowledge!
Correct belt tension should help, and also make sure your machine is properly lubricated and spinning freely (no thread wrapped around the shaft or hook, etc. If the moving parts are binding for any reason, the motor has to provide more torque to get things started and when it finally starts will take off like a spooked rabbit.
Ed
I would have to say that what everyone says is important.
June really hit it on the head, this isn't something to be learned in one session or a few. Practice until it becomes intuitive. Starting off speed will vary with needle, weight of materials, and thread size as well, therefore a touch at the wheel is a good assist that will become normal for you, in time.
If the machine is in good condition, belt tension good, after several weeks if things do not get better then consider what some have suggested, a pully or contact one of the machine vendors here for a servo. But, in time it has become second nature, no problems. I can get a stitch at a time with things in good shape and oiled regularly.
If you go servo then should you ever find yourself using more than one machine in a shop, as I do, then the dependency for you to operate comfortably could require a servo on everything. Just a thought, I don't have a servo. I might get bored with one at this point. ;)
You have some things to check and do that could help.
Good luck,
Doyle
QuoteDarren posted a very good instruction in an earlier post.
Thanks Hide. Hope it was usefull for you. You "lifers" can go back to sleep; here comes my Howie Meeker rant again about basics.
QuoteIt seems like I can give it the same amount of petal every time and sometimes it will go slow like I want, other times it takes off and I don't have tome to manipulate the piece I'm sewing.
Please don't think me harsh if I say it sounds like operator error. Just like your golf swing or ice hockey or driving the car you have to start with the fundamentals. My guess is that you are not seated properly and put your foot in different places on the treadle.You should be seated with your thigh parallel to the floor and your lower leg vertical and the treadle adjusted to a comfortable ankle position.[otherwise you will be fighting for control of your body instead of it just being there doing it's thing] If your ankle joint is directly above the pivot of the treadle it will only take a rock of the foot to start or stop the machine and it will always be consistent. I know this sounds too simple to be important, but trust me, it is the most overlooked and most common cause of this problem.
The best training aide in the world is a treadle sewing machine. Within 5 minutes you should have found that sweet spot where a leisurely rock of the foot has the machine rockin'. That's the same spot you want on an motorized machine. Check with crazy old aunt Ida , the local antique shop , or your cobbler/shoemaker [treadle patchers are still fairly common in that trade].
I've only been out of that blasted walking boot for a week--- while I was in a cast and then the boot I had to teach myself to sew left footed. I had to move my skinny self half an ass to the right and it still took a while to get seated comfortably and until then it was a rookie gong show.
Try pumping the foot pedal imnstead of just pushing down,you'll hear a hissing noise as it gets close to when the machine satrts running.Like Ed said make sure the machine is well oiled & run the belt as loose as you can w/o slipping will help too.
Bob