Starting the next project and I have a concern. A bimini top on a 36' Sabre Fly Bridge. The beam is only 88", but the length of the bimini is 9' and I'm concerned about the weight of the stainless frame.
Since it's only an 88" beam, I'm thinking of using 1" stainless for the main and secondary bows, and 7/8" stainless for the two mid bows.
Has anyone done this before?
Thanks,
Joe
It's been done before but I think the only concern about weight should be when
the bimini is folded with the boot on. If you don't have lateral braces or straps
to keep the bimini from rocking back and forth while in the stowed position then
the weight can cause a problem at the mount points. Reducing the size from 1"
to 7/8" for the interior bows really isn't going to save that much weight.
You could go with all 7/8" but that could cause another issue depending on the
height and the distance off the deck of the mounting point. If the legs of the main
and secondary bows are pretty long then they will have a tendency to bow when
under pressure.
If you do go with the 1" - 7/8" combo be sure to tell your customer first the reason
why you did. I've had a few times when I did something to make the product better
and the customer accused me of covering something up or trying to cut corners.
VeI've never mixed sizes but I alway hav diasgonsl braces to stop rocking.
My bayliner was about that size maybe 8' Long and. All 1" ss
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/BLue%20Dolphin%201/stumppassanchorage013.jpg
you can see the brCes up front
Decided to go all 1". There are support struts fore and aft. His old bimini got torn off in a high wind storm because he left it open. Ripped the mounts right out of the boat and when it fell over, tore the cockpit cover.
Frame is done all in 1" stainless.
Since this is on a fly bridge, thinking of patterning the bimini on a jig at the shop, then install it? This way I'm not doing the pattern 20+ feet in the air. There are also no ledges to stand on.
Any issues or concerns? Thoughts?
Are you only doing the top no windows?
On a top like that ny seams are run along the bows so I pattern from underrated the fram one section at a time. Front bow to the second bow then between the two secondary bows on a four bor the the secondary to the rear bow. Alingme t msrks on the centerline and dots atthe curve of the bows Ive even lTterned from a blank from under just clamp it on and lean out a but if you have to to mark the bows. It would save you alot of work regal setting up a jog and transporting the frames
just saying
We set up frames on a jig all the time. As long as you wait until you get to
the boat to set the bimini and cut the supports you're good to go.
If you're adding an enclosure just measure off center where the panels
will be and add your zippers before you install.
I've done both ways. I like getting the pattern on the boat because I can get everything in one shot. But standing on pinstripeing and risking life and limb isn't worth saving a little time. I've even fit the bimini on the jig and set the tension bars on the boat. A two person job doing that part, thats for sure.
I mounted the frame on the boat yesterday. Not fun! I'll pattern the top today. I think next time, I'll mount it to my jig and pattern at the shop.
U didn't say regal is it just the top?
Mike...Not just the top. I had to bend the frame and mount it.