hi guys
I'm trying to make some cue cards for my sewer for when i'm away
covering almost every job. would you mind looking at them and
seeing if i've made mistakes.
very rough at the moment and the methods may differ from yours
slightly but any help appreciated.
also the curved aft pocket will have some more sheets to go with it
feel free to collect them if you can use them. I will make the jpgs' higher res
when they are finished
to resize in a browser hold the CTRL key and roll your mouse wheel
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi120.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo194%2Ffragged8%2Fth_makingstraightedgepockets.jpg&hash=e96acdc09b30231b5d00f4acead7d13e) (http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o194/fragged8/makingstraightedgepockets.jpg)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi120.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo194%2Ffragged8%2Fth_Curvededgepockets.jpg&hash=13be1398cc273b9e5ac2f9bb037104fd) (http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o194/fragged8/Curvededgepockets.jpg)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi120.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo194%2Ffragged8%2Fth_Graphic1.jpg&hash=c1b7d2435622ad42ff92c9cc6f26e182) (http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o194/fragged8/Graphic1.jpg)
Looks
ok to me if your makeinf s pocket with the matching curve and a strifht side
what is "ocl" ?
I believe OCL may mean On Center Line Mike but not sure.
I know in our buildings trades here in the USA OC means On Center.
Chris
it just what i was taught and it's stuck with me
OCL is Original Copied Line or the first patterned
line on the back bow, all the rest for the pocket
are copied from the Original.
although my sewer has been doing boats for years she hadn't
sewn a pocket till she worked for me, our pram hoods are so
basic, instead of pockets they used velcro and nothing else.
i'm just making the cue cards to remind her when i'm away,
will help me too when i forget :-)
Thanks
Oh boy, you lost me! She has the advantage of knowing what the hell your talking about though! ;) I love the sheets themselves, very clear and nice drawings. How did you draw them? I followed the first page (
kinda) but the second one has me baffled. Is that the flip trace method from that Marine Fabricator article? I think you should get off your lazy arse and pattern your damn rain flaps! Save you a whole flash card!
;)
Now I know what you go through when I try to explain something!
What indo is my pockets are curved just like the bow. So I cut my blanks 8" longer at each end input the bows curved mark 8" in cut it on and slide the canvas 5" (the width of my pockets) over tue cut off piece and trace the curve to make my 5" pocket. This leaves 3" for my rain flap that has the same curve recess it's curve and the flap angles down over the zipper and window or aft curtian
if I knew how rich did it I'd make a diaghram also
hehe sorry Peppy, I don't do the flip trace theres no need.
it's actually quite easy to lay out the rain flaps at the same time as
the big bow pocket and whats left over is enough for a mid pocket
so you get it all done in one go. plus you can make the flaps just
the right shape to point down for a drop curtain, point backwards
for an enclosure or half way for a slanted curtain.
both the cover and the material you are making the pockets and flaps from
remain good side up, no flipping involved :-)
I used Corel Draw to do the diagrams, I do some vinyl lettering
work too so need to have the graphics software.
I think i get what you're saying Mike, It sounds pretty much what i'm doing
except I leave 18" at the end for pockets and rain flaps when using a blanket.
my flaps are double thichness but yours are single thickness right ?
I also have a little trick I picked up at the school for making the very end
of the bow pockets neater, and more snug against the Bow. Most bow
pockets i've seen you can slide your finger up the back of the bow between
the bow and the pocket seam. Doing the 'roll out' trick you can eliminate this.
Rich
Wow, Rich. I think you're a very considerate "boss". I really respect the time and thought that goes into making "cue cards", handy referrals for those times when we all suffer a "brain cramp".
I think "standards" are very, very important for any shop with employees. As an employee myself, nothing is worse than not being able to have a question answered and finding oneself "dead in the water", as it were. I speak from experience as my boss rarely leaves a proper work order and instructions are hastily spat out while concentration is clearly on the app't for which Boss is usually running late. Questions from me are more usually greeted with impatience and irritation (like I'm the one creating the tardiness) than respect for someone with nearly 20 yrs. experience asking pertinent questions about an important project. Drives me nuts, but every person has a different way to approach work, right?
I didn't have any trouble following the directions once I spent a little time thinking about what I was reading!
Yes ri h that a single layer flap. I Finnish my pocket with binding first off they are 2" short of each end to allow for a zipper to fit I bind the ends of the pocket and I bind the ine side (Insuide edge ) but I leave it long and sew the bi ding to the top all the way to the side of the top
then I bind the pocket binding along with the edge of my top did lose you I hope Looks real nice and finnished
i think i get it Mike, do you usually do the sculpted pockets or
parallel all the way.
we talked about this ages ago but I forget hehe, I'm so gonna
come see you and pay you to make me a bimini :-)
Rich
VeI've alsways made mine parralel rich. 5" btw
I was reading a article in the marine fab mag last month about making a large bimini. There was on a trawler about 10' or more long.
Anyway one thing I took notice of was talking about the center bow pockets youk ow say a 36" long or so pocket on the secondayry bows when the pocket is sewn on the bow line then folded back down flat you only
need to pull it tight in the center area. Letting it slightly looser at each end resin being it only needs to be tight in the center to hold the now right where it needs to be.
Leaving it looser at the ends iliminates any pull wrinkles they might cause.
Also when they set up the frame to pull the top
over to pattern they used the fabric I belive. The center. IWW were slight higher then the main bows If a line was tied ot strapping tape front bow to back bow the center secondary bows were ontop of this
tale Rhey said that you would want to add a dart here for the deflection caused from the bow being higher.
Just pattern the top as if it was level and the top will be fine streaching out not needed thus dart.
I tried this on a large top and it worked fine.
We do things much differently. Our flaps only go to the start of the bend, on the bend we use tabs with snaps drilled into the bar. All secondary bars are held up with straps to the main bar the flaps on those bars are only to stop the top lofting. I make them a little loose all the way.
I read that article too Mike. I would worry about run off doing it that way. I like 1 1/2" hight difference between the bars as a minimum. Can you lift the bars that much without a dart? And of course we seam side to side so no dart. And I don't think that guy puts crown in his bars?Wouldn't the dew do those things in? He must make them tight.
Unused to only have straps and small tops the. I started making pocket to prevent loft
I've sen small catalouge biminis with straps and a short pocket
I bellive they. Meant that the tops would streach a d nit need the darts a little streach would go a long way to illuminate the need for a dart
I so genererly have my seam follow the bow side to side but some I ru. Fron t to back.
As this was originaly and it made sence material wise to do so
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Flybridge/photo2-40.jpg
i call your pockets Peppy, sculpted pockets. you can get
a lot of top adjustment that way right ?
I haven't recieved my Fab Mag yet Mike, so i'll look forward to seeing that article
The straps are just for extra adjustability. The flaps would hold the bar in place but the straps allow for the extra bit of snugness. The tabs on the bends allow for a ton of adjustment to the fit Rich. I find most of the shape of the top comes from the tabs. I can undo the flap zippers and the top retains it's look. Mind you with a sag in the middle... I've made a few tops with flaps around the bends and you really have to be bang on with the lines on the pattern or it fits like sh...poo. More than likley it's a symptom of how we pattern and build our tops. All at once like a big bag. If the lines and the sewing are a little off it'll throw the curtains all out of whack. It's partly why I developed the push gauge dooie.
Why sculpted pockets? I'd figure yours are more sculpted? That article was from a while ago, it's on the Marine Fab website. Under how to's I think. But I don't like that Hood Canvas guys system at all. Not how he patterns or builds them. Just my opinion. Seems to work for him.
I don't think I'd trust the fabric to stretch beautifully raising 2 bars 2". That'd be a big piece of scrap!
Pep did they say 2"? I only opened the se ondary bow to where they rested on top of a tape ran from front to back so 1" above the main bows I would have marked for a dart. But I tried there way and it was fine seen here o. The mainsilhip top
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Flybridge/photo-81-1.jpg
I have a question on your pockets guys I see the adjustabty. But drilling stainless for the snaps I rivit the fittings but it got to be a lain and the cost for cobalt bit and the time drilling.
I just mark the bows make a pocket with zippers and zip the top on drilling for thebsnaps has to be a pain espiciallt in the heat with no shade from the top yet.
I have one of Mark Hoods binders and the way he does it
looks pretty good but i have a problem using it as the width
is imperial and i can only buy metric zippers so they just show
outside the panels.
Did you know your official measuring system approved by congress
is metric ??? it was on the radio yesterday..
I don't know that Mr. Hood does 2" thats what we do (1 1/2" at the least). I hate to do any less for fear of it collapsing under heavy dew. Especially with out any crown in the bars.
Drilling the bars is a chore to be sure. But worth the effort IMO. I use double ended HSS bits. About $2.50 per. One bit easily does a top, six tabs per flap, 3 flaps on a camper top. It's mostly a crayon after that although it'd still drill aluminum. I do the tabs when the top is up and just flip back the corner out of the way. I guess I've done so many I don't really think about it anymore. I call myself the Mexican drillpress.
In Canada metric is the 'official' measuring system. I'm 5'9" but I haven't the slightest clue how many cm tall I am. 700? 2000? And I'm 140lbs so thats what? 6 kilos? The only metric we use are kilometers and liters. And celsius I guess.
Pep I'll never make a top with no crown and ges a top looks nice with the center bows higher but somtimes as in this case the frame was there and the bows wereev with each other.
Years back when I started k my work was patterned with the end product no plastic.
I would somtime put a snap at the end of my pocket I side to pull the top around to fit right
then I wod fit my window ect.
If you pattern you top and front window. After you fit the top if you pull it tighter with your snaps have you ever had it make the widow fit looser at this corner. You could pull the window Down to snap it but the curve might be a problem I think no?
I "don't think" metric, but that's simply a function of lack of exposure (it's been a long time since I took Chemistry and Biochemistry). When "metric" is introduced to school kids in the USA it's always caught up in exact conversions. That's foolish to me, personally. A basic comparison is all that's really necessary... a metre is about a yard, a litre is about a quart, etc.. Our number system is in "base 10"; but if you understand the meaning of "base", then base 4 or base 5 isn't that tough to master.
Why the United States of America doesn't use the Metric system defies common sense, as does the arcane insistence that kids "get the summer off". Our kids are such under-achievers in academics they clearly need to attend school all year long, lol. And they need to speak/write 2 or 3 languages at a conversational level, too!!!
But enough of my thoughts on that topic.
I disagree on the language I hate that on tue phone I have to press 1 for English. Why why not press 1 for spanish. I took chineese one year I o ly remeber 2 phrases we learned k I problem don't say then correctly. Tes they probly should take them the way things are.