Messages

Mike,  I quoted the job while boat was floating, now it's going into storage. And that's when it's to be  done.

Thanks everyone for the responses. I will also have to tell him, he's responsble for the charge the boat storage facilities rape me on, for working there.
Eric

I had a customer respond to my quote with these 3 questions.

1) what makes you the better choice over competitors?

2) Are you able to give a 10% discount for a winter project?

3) Are there other payment options from what is stated at the bottom of the contract/quote that we both can live with?
Thoughts on how some of you would respond. I do usally give discounts for winter, although lately I just price everything cheaper.
As to #3 I usually get 1/2 down up front to cover material costs.
Thanks Eric

Looks like you either need a dart on the mid bow,or when you made the pattern, the marking was off as you came around the shoulders. I canvas fit, so when it comes to patterns I won't be alot of help. The curves look to need to be pulled tighter.
Eric

John, give Irv Wilke a call. He works for henderson sewing and lives in Arizona. 800-932-0507

Another option. Take clear marine silicone caulk,appy a very fine bead and spread with your finger into holes. It will hardly be seen, do this on inside. Tell customer what your doing, that it will seal holes, and offer a $50.00 discount, or whatever you feel.
If he accepts, this will save you from having to redo, especially if your busy.
Eric

If making a full mooring cover, go over rails. Use darts if needed. Just because they didn't originally, does not mean you can't.
Your the canvasmaker, you design the correct solution, don't copy bad canvas.
Eric

I'm using Webroot Security as my Anti-virus/spyware program.

When I click on Mike's pics above, I get a warning that says "This website contains malicious content that is a known threat, and has been blocked".

Anyone else getting a similar message?

I'm running avast. Not seeing any problems.

Depends on cutout. However, just bind as normal, fold opposite side of slit over so back is facing up. When you get to the point where you are going to change direction, wheel the needle down at that point, ( you can adjust stitch length by using reverse while wheeling by hand). At this point spin panel and flip the previous folded over side, back to right side up, and bind down that side. If this is unclear, and it could be, I will take a picture.
I never use bias cut binding, unless I wanted to bind a smile. And even then, I never use bias cut binding. Bias cut stretches. Use what works for you.
Also You may have to add 1 stitch at the top of slit, while coming around.
I would do a 2" slit by hand, otherwise I have binder.
Eric

I went through this today, in referance to gene's post. Customer was price only, I called to follow up, but price won. He would not tell me there price, I did extract that they were a $1000.00 less, if not more. Saw the new frame work for job, welded and then ground off no polish. Even stainless will rust if not polished to a fine surface finish. So, I can't wait to see canvas. It should be just as spectacularly craptacular.

I would sew zippers to keder, with match on panel. Your option #2, seperate zip for each panel.

Eric

I use furniture grade and hotknife edges.
Eric

Quickbooks, I do everything until end of year, then accountant receives copy. He takes everything from there.
Eric

4 phones. 2 smart with data-2GB each, 2 dumb. Unlimited texting, I think a 1000 minutes talk. $169.00/month.

Mike, explain how you pattern it please.
Do you ever make them, where the motor is left tilted up all the time?
Eric