Messages

I'm sorry I can't provide a better picture of the cracked chair seat, but essentially, it has a "bounce" to it.  It has lost some structural integrity and while it hasn't cracked fully, there is damage.  The seats also have a slight curve in them.  It looks like they have been shaped and screwed in, but I'm not sure if I can take a thin piece of laminate and force it into a slight curve or if there is more to this process that is WAY OVER my skill level. If I outsourced the repair of the seat, what could I expect to pay someone to repair that portion of the seat?

Kodydog those look great. If I proceed on this project, I'll see if the 1-1/2" will still look good. These have zero padding left. What firmness did she go with? I have 2.7/50.

Fabric matches their large custom couch. I mentioned that one of their large throw pillows could be canibalized to cover their two remaining chairs  (they have a total of 6). I definitely am regretting taking this task on. They couldn't find the original invoice (removed from the sleeve of the fabric bolt). But there was a tag identifying it as a Robert Allen from 8/99.

The orginal seat material (wood laminate/plywood) is fairly thin but only one seat has cracked and has a bounce to it. I will try to take more pics.

Prospective client has asked to reupholster these teak mid-century dining chairs.  They have additional fabric (only 2 yards) to do 6 chairs.  They asked me to source the fabric to see if they can buy more (from 1999) through Robert Allen.  How do you handle doing the LEG WORK for the client?  Do you charge for that time, or do you do it as a service?

Also, one of the chair seats is cracked and a new one is necessary - not sure if someone could recommend specifically what kind of board material should be used for a classic table set like this?  It's pretty thin wood - as someone has come along in later years to reinforce it with another layer of particle board underneath on all 6 chairs.

Some of the staples are also pulling out very easily which makes me cautious of driving new staples in to old plywood....and blowing it out. 

Lastly, I cautioned client about using thick foam (wanted 2").  I told them these chairs never really were comfortable - because the style dictated that.  They agreed on 1" foam.....should it be even less because of the type of chair?  1" seems worthless and anything else, even worse.

Would appreciate your feedback on doing this as a relative "newbie." I can see a lot going wrong really quickly. LOL

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fhk7jJxT7YXJrg5YATrLs9tzC6rafgKs/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZEBzQigXrxl-zUWDTbkfWDnvqalBS0VV/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBMI_9rIv-kPLw9pap8tILxgKcXZem--/view?usp=sharing

Thanks for the feedback.  I did work out the numbers longhand and arrived at my pricing.  I wish sometimes there was a manual just like when you buy a franchise - they give you everything you need to open your doors and be successful. 

The flipside is, I love that I'm building this business one step at a time and with the help of others - networking has been a lifesaver.  So, thank you!

I have measured the banquette now that it's installed.  It is 16-3/4"h so the 3" foam is what the client wants.  Firm foam spec'd is 50IDL/ 2.7lb  Would anyone recommend something better?

In this situation, the designer and client have deferred the selection of foam to me.  In this case, it is spec'd at 2.7lb / 50IDL through US Foam.  I started to doubt my own selection of 50IDL because of the 3" thickness.  The client doesn't want "soft" since it will be 3" and doesn't want to necessarily sink into the cushions.

She has only a 19" depth and limited space with windows behind the banquette at 34-1/2".  The designer has therefore spec'd back pillows ranging from 18" - 24".  I will be doing those as well.  They have hired a cabinet maker to make the banquette itself.

I definitely see that there are variables that can affect final price, like add-ons and difficult to use fabrics.  I have spec'd out my costs for foam, batting and welting.  (I will add the zipper.) I haven't included my overhead like lighting, insurance, etc., because that whole process is still a "work in process."  I guess it's not as simple as a formula of L + W x 2, etc.

I think for me, it's difficult to have a set labor price since I am still learning, the time it takes to do it is longer, so I'm struggling at an hourly rate.

I have been asked to bid on a 75"w x 19"d x 3"h and 47"w x 19"d x 3"h l-shaped banquette for a designer's client. I have heard of different methods for calculating a price including L + W x ($1.50-$3.00 per inch) as well as L+W x 2 = $Price. Both result in a low - high price point.  I was thinking of using the first method which results in a higher price but would include foam/piping/zipper and still leave me a decent labor price.

I would appreciate anyone's feedback on this project. 

Also, the client wants 3" foam. I initially showed the client what 2" firm looks and feels like, but now I'm wondering if 3" for a residential banquette may be too hard? Curious what others may suggest and use.

Thank you!

Have been asked to bid for this project. Haven't done one of these before so not sure how it's attached but wondering if anyone has some advice, suggestions, warnings and perhaps how long it might take a seasoned upholsterer to finish? Not sure what to charge.

Thank you!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_b-s34UOXi1bjJ0TVViZkZkbmc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_b-s34UOXi1NlFDM0hQaGxrdWM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_b-s34UOXi1dUUtMTZLNEYyemM

Floyd, thank you for your thorough and thoughtful response. I will check these options out today. The expertise and advice I receive here has been invaluable.

Thanks again,

Deana

Thanks all, I will look into getting some casters.

I was pretty shocked that this even came up for sale in my area.  I see lots of Jukis that handle light and medium weight fabrics, but have only seen one other 1541s and that was $1400.  I felt like I got a good deal at $850.  Not quite as good a deal as $375 but very excited to get to using it.

This seamstress bought this thinking it was the next best thing - and I'm sure quickly abandoned it when it chewed up her wedding dresses.  Either way, I feel like a winner!

This machine has a clutch motor.  I have seen how to swap it out for a servo.  I'm hoping to swap that out eventually but not a must-have yet.  I do need to add a few feet - it only came with the walking foot.  I'd like to add a single and double cording foot.  Any other must-haves?

I need to buy a table light.  Does anyone recommend a better one over the standard light that I can get from Juki directly?

I scored a "new to me" in "mint-condition" Juki DNU-1541s .....FINALLY.  The machine has less than 20 hours of sewing time as the seamstress actually focused on wedding apparel.  Drove a couple hours to go pick it up today with the family and my husband was surprised how heavy the head was to carry.

That being said, I was wondering if anyone has put heavy-duty casters on their table so they can move it around?  I don't have a huge workspace and so I'd like to turn the table and roll it up to a larger table so my fabric doesn't roll off.

Thoughts?

Interesting thread.  I was just reading the rules in California and if I produce something from scratch, both my labor and materials are taxable.  If I "reupholster" the customer's original piece, only my materials are taxable.  So by this logic, if I leave a piece of their old batting in a cushion, then in effect, I don't have to charge sales tax as it's just my labor.

I need to definitely get it clear as I may change my invoicing to read 'reupholster' as opposed to 'fabrication of new"....

So much to learn.

I have some 1-1/2" foam with a firmness and compression of 1.8/45lb.  Would that be typical to use on diningroom chairs?  I have hardwood seat bottoms and the foam has completely given out.  I just feel the wood.  I have some time and wanted to replace the fabric today but wondered if I should be using a more firm foam for such a hard wood seat?

Thanks!

In situations like this (tack matching, etc.) I have carefully removed the tack and reused
them.  They matched!

Doyle, that is my game plan for now but having a "close match" at the ready. I'll remove carefully and see what I get. I even thought about pulling some tacks from the back of the seat bottoms and using them on the upper seat backs  since they will be more visible there and replace the seat back ones with "new similar".

Thanks for the suggestions - I went to count how many decorative nails are in the seat, and there are significantly more than the back.  Also, I am only reupholstering the two captain chairs - there are 6 more side chairs with the same nailhead, so I'm not sure I want to open that can of worms and make the two end ones different.

I have been trying to source similar 3/4" antique brass or maybe it's antique bronze, but the pickings are slim.  I can see why this could be a headache and just easier to change it all out - makes sense that oxidation, etc., can affect the look from old to new. My bid to reupholster these seat backs doesn't include changing out the seat nailhead.  I would rather find something "close" than replace all the seat nailhead on my dime/time.

Decisions decisions.