I've already posted these on Richard's board and thought I'll post them here too.
A mixture of remakes (redesigned) and new builds. Most are my own work with the odd 2 man operation made by work colleague and friend, T. Hartnell and myself. Some pictures were taken before overal completion.
Feel free to comment and I will try to answer any questions that you may have.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73279%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C3%253C2%253C8333nu0mrj&hash=19bdda340797fd2dec14cdb5a2bf16db) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73279%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C3%3C2%3C8333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73264%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C3%253C77%253B333nu0mrj&hash=5037ab53a1e5c6b396757c6ee141f75c) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73264%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C3%3C77%3B333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73284%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3374675773333nu0mrj&hash=6d666a9380a63dcb5144ecc2658e1e6f) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73284%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3374675773333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73257%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C45385333nu0mrj&hash=6817f7486207fa6433d77cc121c246c8) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73257%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C45385333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73276%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3374675766333nu0mrj&hash=cc4617654435c2211ff3e1a6afd4318f) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73276%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3374675766333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73284%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D337466%253A959333nu0mrj&hash=30d8d629b87817f68e931ee91e4e1bc4) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73284%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D337466%3A959333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73269%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3374675763333nu0mrj&hash=b0f65842838a390ad5a689e97b787ae2) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73269%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3374675763333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp7327%253A%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D337466%253A965333nu0mrj&hash=97d1c760a956af14a41a30ce30ca1ae7) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp7327%3A%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D337466%3A965333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73256%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C4538%253B333nu0mrj&hash=c3bcb9205b03656f0a6b58a90bd0d76e) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73256%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C4538%3B333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73277%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C45389333nu0mrj&hash=dc258609525d3ac38f9ca90e8982420d) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73277%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C45389333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp7326%253A%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C4537%253B333nu0mrj&hash=7dec46200fc0e6a568bdbcf2a0bbc31b) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp7326%3A%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C4537%3B333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73272%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C45388333nu0mrj&hash=ed07820e221410f57ca5cc9b303ea56e) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73272%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C45388333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp73279%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C45362333nu0mrj&hash=a8f82ec919520d781b8c33d9139ddfd1) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp73279%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C45362333nu0mrj) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages3b.snapfish.com%2F232323232%257Ffp7326%253B%253Enu%253D5272%253E559%253E242%253EWSNRCG%253D3376%253C45369333nu0mrj&hash=742d0ed66eb4b5b31a084aa09a927495) (http://images3b.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp7326%3B%3Enu%3D5272%3E559%3E242%3EWSNRCG%3D3376%3C45369333nu0mrj)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0529.jpg&hash=581be7a6c3031cb9ca807ce96b19c39a) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/?action=view¤t=Photo0529.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0523.jpg&hash=230214555b97522a6d9b8dc574b58b19) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/?action=view¤t=Photo0523.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0527.jpg&hash=985b10bcc553cd50b5feff1bdac8627d) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/?action=view¤t=Photo0527.jpg)
http://get-up-and-go.com/upholstery-forum/index.php?topic=8502.msg69391#msg69391 (http://get-up-and-go.com/upholstery-forum/index.php?topic=8502.msg69391#msg69391)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0091.jpg&hash=e699ab58a87ad268d07a0e9d0596880b) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0091.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0090.jpg&hash=77ac9eaffdb28724e837d3a9cb856153) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0090.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0078.jpg&hash=5bc7e08ba99b0c5b3169f1023a1d98dd) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0078.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0145.jpg&hash=8403a8708b8f2a8930c996ef1d06bc07) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0145.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0237.jpg&hash=70b8b314b99d14b5ff0f0a6c905cd8c7) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0237.jpg)
Holy beans! Thats some hot stuff! Looks like bird shit'll bounce off them! Are they all sunbrella? Do you sew them too?
I like the dingy cover with the red barbell looking things. You shrink that one on?
Looks nice, I to am intrested if you sew the glass in, especially on the first couple pictures. Also do you have a picture of the framework for the black curved camper?
Eric
Indeed! Very nice looking work. Can a normal-strength person put those covers on? And what are those red "barbell looking thingys" on the dingy cover? The fit on that thing is impeccable.
June
Very nice fit on those covers. Way back when I was still doing canvas work I always left a little for shrinkage, your covers fit so nice and tight, I wonder it they will still fit in a year or two? It is not my intent to criticize, you do very nice work and i can see a lot of time went into it. Maybe I was over cautious and worried about returns to much. I only had one cover ever come back, that one I was doing outside because my shop was full and I got caught in a rain storm. The canvas (sunbrella) got wet and I went ahead and finished the job, apparently being wet the canvas over stretched and the only way my customer could get the cover on the boat was to soak the cover in the lake before installing it. I ended up making a new cover, hopefully you make money on the first cover, but it you have to make a second it cost you money. Guess I became a little gun shy after that.
Nice looking work! Not a wrinkle anywhere!
After you post the thumbs, I'll move this over to the "GREEN ROOM" for easy finding in the future. ;D
NICE work!, how did you do the curved camper? and shy the red dots on the tender? funny thing on tight whats wrong with tight i ask? a guy wanted me to make a bridge cover for his 38' Carvr Santeago for hurricane protection so I did with Top Gun and vent so port vents and fastned with turnbuttons. nice and tight today he came back a week later and asked if I can loosen it with a strip up te center ::) so hes all paid shoulf i charge him extra? and perhap loose a full enclosure later on when hes got more money or perhap it would not happen anyway ::)
So tell us a bit about yorself PDQ where did you learn to do nice work like that and do you have your own shop? UK right?
Quote from: Mike8560 on June 03, 2010, 04:37:28 pm
funny thing on tight whats wrong with tight i ask?
Yeah, easy for you to say. ::) You're what, freakin' 7' tall? :P And I'm 60" IF I stand up REALLY straight. I can't do the "200 pound gorilla" canvas anymore. Just too small/old/weak/frail/wimpy/you get the picture.
June
I say if the customer can't do it up it's due to operator error. It was delivered done up right? If you can't do it up your doing it wrong. Put down the rum and coke and think about things from a different perspective. Don't do up every zipper and then fight with a snap. Or do and pay me to come do it up, either way's good.
I had a guy say (I quote) "I DEFIE you to do up that snap!" I undid the zipper a bit and snapped it on and zipped the zipper. He says "I didn't know you were going to cheat!" No kidding.
(btw I'm only a 140lbs gorilla.)
I totally agree, Peppy. I always tell my customers to start each zip, don't finish any of them. Do the snaps, then finish the zipping. But still, some covers defy you to snap them. I've seen them recently come up as much as 3" short of snapping. Even with soaking the canvas, they're never going to reach.
June
Hey, I never thought of using Spandex to do canvas work! ;D Very nice work! My covers look like my old face...wrinkled! We would love to learn more about your methods.
Tim
Quote from: Peppy on June 03, 2010, 03:41:19 am
Are they all sunbrella? Do you sew them too?
Hi Peppy,
They are made in Sauleda apart from the RIB cover, which was made in Odyssey,
Yes, I do all my own sewing.
Quote from: Eric on June 03, 2010, 04:54:02 am
Looks nice, I to am intrested if you sew the glass in, especially on the first couple pictures. Also do you have a picture of the framework for the black curved camper?
Eric
Hi Eric,
Yes, the glass is sewn in. The frame work for the curve (not my design) is a simple, yet clever method of using fibreglass tent poles. I do have an a few images of them and will post them for you shortly.
Quote from: JuneC on June 03, 2010, 05:45:16 am
Can a normal-strength person put those covers on? And what are those red "barbell looking thingys" on the dingy cover?
Hi June,
All my covers go on quite easily so long as the correct method is used, start and finishing points for example. I make it a rule of educating my customers on the best method of fitting their new cover at the end of every job. Once they have this knowledge, it's easy for them.
Ah, the red dots. :) The colour scheme for the RIB cover was a customer requirement. He wanted all reinforced areas that prevent chafing to be done in red. The larger "barbell looking thingys" are the grab rails and the smaller ones are other reinforced areas done the same way to match.
Quote from: mike802 on June 03, 2010, 07:17:06 am
Very nice fit on those covers. Way back when I was still doing canvas work I always left a little for shrinkage, your covers fit so nice and tight, I wonder it they will still fit in a year or two? It is not my intent to criticize, you do very nice work and i can see a lot of time went into it.
Hi Mike802,
there's no harm in constructive criticism whatsoever. In fact, I believe it should be encouraged more here for better discussion, so good for you for standing up and saying what's on your mind. :tup: You raise a valid point regarding shrinkage and I'm sure it's a concern that all of us worry about. I assume you're aiming your concerns in regards to the first two images (the 'curved' canopy) and the RIB cover?
When I get back from work later today I'll sit down and go through it with you. I'm a bit pushed for time at the moment as I want to post in more detail, but that will take up too much of my time right now.
Time for work. Will come back later.
Thanks for the comments, all.
Great pics... i've just done my 1st spray guard today, it turned out well + the interior :) .
It could be a new string to my bow & yes nice work.
Chris
Quote from: JuneC on June 03, 2010, 07:50:16 pm
I totally agree, Peppy. I always tell my customers to start each zip, don't finish any of them. Do the snaps, then finish the zipping. But still, some covers defy you to snap them. I've seen them recently come up as much as 3" short of snapping. Even with soaking the canvas, they're never going to reach.
June
I do the zipper thing also and if a cover is tight snaping from the front sdown the side to the back gettign tighter and tigher dont snap the whole side do the front then the rear corner snaps then fill in the center snaps. this is ok o a trailer but harder if installing in the water or on a lift.
Here's one that was completed'ish recently (just need to tidy it up tomoz)
Nimbus Commander 380:
Six piece.
Fwd panel attached to and draped (skirt) over curved flybridge rail (PITA)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0529.jpg&hash=581be7a6c3031cb9ca807ce96b19c39a) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/?action=view¤t=Photo0529.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0523.jpg&hash=230214555b97522a6d9b8dc574b58b19) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/?action=view¤t=Photo0523.jpg) (https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0527.jpg&hash=985b10bcc553cd50b5feff1bdac8627d) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/?action=view¤t=Photo0527.jpg)
Wow, that looks great! Nice work.
Wow dude , So that's the kinda stuff you make using the old relic Singer K6.
nice stuff, Are those windows streched on hot.? :o
Quote from: Twat of the North on June 21, 2010, 01:19:48 pm
Wow dude , So that's the kinda stuff you make using the old relic Singer K6.
nice stuff, Are those windows streched on hot.? :o
No stretchy stretchy, it's all in the cut. ;)
Here's an enclosure I made back in November of last year. The clients wanted to use their existing bimini and Sprayhood as part of a full cockpit enclosure. Another requirement was to have the Port & Stbd detachable panels/curtains inset approximately 24 inches from the outer edge of the existing top and a windowed infill to the hood. The purpose of the inset was to reduce an overly box type effect that would've occurred if the outer edge was used. However, even with the inset there was still a concern that the enclosure would still be too boxy to their liking so it was decided to soften the lines by contouring the top & bottom edges of the panels by following the contour of the cockpit area and rounding off the windows, thus making it more pleasing to the eye.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0091.jpg&hash=e699ab58a87ad268d07a0e9d0596880b) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0091.jpg)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0090.jpg&hash=77ac9eaffdb28724e837d3a9cb856153) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0090.jpg)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0078.jpg&hash=5bc7e08ba99b0c5b3169f1023a1d98dd) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0078.jpg)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0145.jpg&hash=8403a8708b8f2a8930c996ef1d06bc07) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0145.jpg)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FSpirit%2Fth_Photo0237.jpg&hash=70b8b314b99d14b5ff0f0a6c905cd8c7) (http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Spirit/?action=view¤t=Photo0237.jpg)
There's a thing, I am doing the exact same thing on a moody 35 :P
Quote from: Grebo on June 25, 2010, 03:47:13 am
There's a thing, I am doing the exact same thing on a moody 35 :P
Hows about that then. 8)
Be sure to let us know how you get on with it and post if you encounter any problems, as I may have gone through the same thing and might be able to make suggestions. :tup:
This was completed about 4 weeks ago. Having seen the enclosure I made for his neighbour the owner decided to have a new one too. :)
I made a few changes compared to his old cover, like raising the the fwd bar a fair bit to remove the hideous looking front panel, why they do that I have no idea, do they actually think it looks good having a fwd panel that is so low it ends up difficult to see out of whilst standing at the helm. Maybe the cover was made in a country full of midgets. ;)
Before:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FFergus%2Fth_Photo0537.jpg&hash=1e6cd0394f8a513451dd2c15389bb41d) (http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Fergus/Photo0537.jpg?t=1279176208)
Template:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FFergus%2Fth_Photo0520.jpg&hash=56b45c02954f57b2ce46c404b28a71de) (http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Fergus/Photo0520.jpg?t=1279176314)
After:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FFergus%2Fth_Photo0562.jpg&hash=b13eaec09de453fc55dd7c9219a22991) (http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Fergus/Photo0562.jpg?t=1279176499)
I've also got a few shots of the aft section completed, but I can't seem to find them atm. Will post later.
A couple of little ones:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0451.jpg&hash=9d522e59848686db8fd642fd2b8708b1) (http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/Photo0451.jpg?t=1279203095)
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi795.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy233%2FPDQ101%2FEnclosures%2Fth_Photo0452.jpg&hash=707971cb35feef9bb04123cc2e294358) (http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy233/PDQ101/Enclosures/Photo0452.jpg?t=1279203210)
Aww aint they sweet...! ;D... little ones
Any luck with the rubber extrusion ? Recycle the old one eh..
later
Quote from: R.A.F. CaNvAs on July 15, 2010, 02:23:27 pm
Aww aint they sweet...! ;D... little ones
Any luck with the rubber extrusion ? Recycle the old one eh..
later
Aye, plan B was put into motion, but it soon became plan B:1 then B:2. Anyway, It's all done and dusted now and fit tomoz.
It's been a while since I last updated.
Warning: A number of images are of a higher resolution and as such larger in file size.
Odds & Sods:
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Camera distortion ?
So are the pix "odds-sods #23 and #24 Two different boats, From the thumbs it looks like the
spray dodgers are elongated ( on the vertical axis )
Nope, They still look strange in large format.
Difficult on the smaller boats to get the practicality and the perspective cock-on
Anyhow just how I like em' Good and tight and wrinkle free ;)
No distortion, just weird looking :)
I'll add a few comments to them later...
Top drawer! Even the wierd looking ones. You really like the inlaid windows eh? We build ours with pieces and seams. Why do you like that way? Aside from the groovy curvy corners I mean.
But really amazes me is how symetrical they all are when you build the whole pattern. (I love the pattern picture BTW) I had to make a whole pattern on a dodger recently (the first guy installed it drunk and the snaps were all over the map) it took me forever to get the lines right. Do you draw good lines on one side and trace it on the table?
Quote from: Peppy on September 07, 2010, 05:38:02 pm
Top drawer! Even the wierd looking ones. You really like the inlaid windows eh? We build ours with pieces and seams. Why do you like that way? Aside from the groovy curvy corners I mean.
But really amazes me is how symetrical they all are when you build the whole pattern. (I love the pattern picture BTW) I had to make a whole pattern on a dodger recently (the first guy installed it drunk and the snaps were all over the map) it took me forever to get the lines right. Do you draw good lines on one side and trace it on the table?
Thanks, Peppy.
I believe my sprayhoods/dodgers are constructed no differently than most other hoods I've seen. Perhaps when saying that yours are built in "pieces and seams" you are reffering to enclosures? If so, then yes, I do mine differently to most of you guys/gals in the US, but I don't think I'm alone in using this method, apart from making mine a little more groovy than the norm. ;)
Why do I do it this way, Well, how long have you got? I certainly don't do it for effiecncy in terms of labour and material costs as I know you guys would wipe the floor with me in that regard, but for me it's not just about that, it's about desgning a certain style that slightly stands out from the norm that I can call my own.
In order for me to continue with this I really need to know more about how and why you guys/gal do it the way you do.
As for templating, I don't use the dot method (clearly ;) ) and I don't know anyone who does here on the south coast of England. I personally prefer to see the overall design at the template stage, a kind of WYSIWYG that the customer and I can discuss so that the they can see exactly what they are getting, and for me to aim for, of course.
All lines are drawn at the template stage with the odd strike mark for reference. Window lines are very roughly drawn in for guidance and to give the customer an idea of how they will look like. All template lines are cleaned up at the cutting stage, laid out, and transfered to cloth.
Sounds easy when putting it into words. ;)
Thanks for posting. :tup:
Jerry.
Yes we build our dodgers like you do (not as groovy, mind) with the inlaid windows. Cutting a fabric blank, sewing windows on and cutting the hole out. Dodgers are nearly the only tops we build like this. And afterthought windows. And like you I make a WYSIWYG paper bag boat top. Only difference really is I make 1/2 of it. Lately though we've come up with a hybrid, inlaid till the bottom of the window then a topstiched seam where it meets the cloth. Worked once!
I draw all the lines for seams or zippers in their (mostly) finished position. At the cutting table; seams are marked 'yes' both sides of the line to add 1/2" seam, lines at the snaps are 'no' for cut and bind, zippers are a 'yes/no' on either side to create overlap. We build all the panels out of several little pieces, seam them and topstitch them.
The reason we make 1/2 patterns (aside from less pattern work) is that on the cutting table we cut 2 layers of sunbrella out at once with the hotknife. Centerlines on the pattern are laid on the fold of doubled over cloth. It's also half the work cutting out. Reference points are symmetrical so left and right isn't much of a problem. Do you ever do something like this? I can't believe nobody else does it like this. I guess you have to make 1/2 a pattern for it to be beneficial though.
I really don't understand the DOT method personally. Seems like it's making life a lot tougher than it needs to be. I can't believe people can make something that looks good without seeing it first. I guess I'm too dumb and have to see it to believe it.
Quote from: Peppy on September 11, 2010, 05:40:48 pm
Yes we build our dodgers like you do (not as groovy, mind) with the inlaid windows. Cutting a fabric blank, sewing windows on and cutting the hole out. Dodgers are nearly the only tops we build like this. And afterthought windows. And like you I make a WYSIWYG paper bag boat top. Only difference really is I make 1/2 of it. Lately though we've come up with a hybrid, inlaid till the bottom of the window then a topstiched seam where it meets the cloth. Worked once!
I draw all the lines for seams or zippers in their (mostly) finished position. At the cutting table; seams are marked 'yes' both sides of the line to add 1/2" seam, lines at the snaps are 'no' for cut and bind, zippers are a 'yes/no' on either side to create overlap. We build all the panels out of several little pieces, seam them and topstitch them.
The reason we make 1/2 patterns (aside from less pattern work) is that on the cutting table we cut 2 layers of sunbrella out at once with the hotknife. Centerlines on the pattern are laid on the fold of doubled over cloth. It's also half the work cutting out. Reference points are symmetrical so left and right isn't much of a problem. Do you ever do something like this? I can't believe nobody else does it like this. I guess you have to make 1/2 a pattern for it to be beneficial though.
I really don't understand the DOT method personally. Seems like it's making life a lot tougher than it needs to be. I can't believe people can make something that looks good without seeing it first. I guess I'm too dumb and have to see it to believe it.
The only time that I would make half a pattern for enclosures/hoods is when I'm forced to do so by the weather. For me personally I dislike doing it because it just feels like I'm shooting in the dark and I would spend the many hours of building the cover worrying about it.
Any overlaying of the cloth would only come about if working to measurments for a large cover such as a winter cover, for example. measurements would be chalked on the floor so that the chalked lines would transfer to the underside and then the lines are redrawn/traced to the top side.
Don't hotknife as we use coated acrylic for most work, but if uncoated is used, which is normaly only used for sail coats, stackpacks, wind dodgers, and the odd interior job for example, then all raw edges and seams are turned and sewn.
Quote from: PDQ on September 14, 2010, 08:08:52 am
Don't hotknife as we use coated acrylic for most work, but if uncoated is used, which is normaly only used for sail coats, stackpacks, wind dodgers, and the odd interior job for example, then all raw edges and seams are turned and sewn.
Do you turn your acrylic seams? Or just the hotknifed ones? And thats to protect against the scratchy-ness? Does the acrylic fray?
Quote
The only time that I would make half a pattern for enclosures/hoods is when I'm forced to do so by the weather. For me personally I dislike doing it because it just feels like I'm shooting in the dark and I would spend the many hours of building the cover worrying about it.
I stopped worrying, like, 5 years ago. What, me worry? I made it, I can fix it right? That gets me to sleep, anyway. Admittedly there's a lot more room for error and places to make a fix on a camperback than a dodger. You worry about staying on center, I worry about drawing a dodger with a quizzical expression.
Quote
Any overlaying of the cloth would only come about if working to measurments for a large cover such as a winter cover, for example. measurements would be chalked on the floor so that the chalked lines would transfer to the underside and then the lines are redrawn/traced to the top side.
See.... that to me seems as kooky as making 1/2 a pattern must sound to other people. I must not understand right.
-You draw a boat on the ground in chalk
-un-roll a tarp folded in half on the chalk and pat it down
-draw the boat again on the top layer of the cloth?
Should we start a new thread?
Quote from: Peppy on September 14, 2010, 05:59:55 pm
Do you turn your acrylic seams? Or just the hotknifed ones? And thats to protect against the scratchy-ness? Does the acrylic fray?
Coated doesn't fray, well it does if left exposed to the elements for a period of time, hence the reason not to have a raw edge on the exterior no matter what some say, mostly those whom believe that it is perfectly acceptable to have a raw edge around their windows. ::) A coated raw edge on the interior is fine if trimmed neatly.
Uncoated frays like there's no tomorrow so the edges are therefore turned, hotknifed, or even pinked by some depending on the type and quality of the cover.
Quote from: Peppy on September 14, 2010, 05:59:55 pm
I stopped worrying, like, 5 years ago. What, me worry? I made it, I can fix it right? That gets me to sleep, anyway. Admittedly there's a lot more room for error and places to make a fix on a camperback than a dodger. You worry about staying on center, I worry about drawing a dodger with a quizzical expression.
For me it's a question of symmetry of the frame work, the boat, or both. Considering that the majority of work are remakes and as such the frame work has been produced elsewhere, together with wear & tear/abuse of the frames throughout its lifetime leaves one to be very suspicious of anything being symmetric, not to mention the sometimes laughable tolerances of a modern day boat builder.
Quote from: Peppy on September 14, 2010, 05:59:55 pm
See.... that to me seems as kooky as making 1/2 a pattern must sound to other people. I must not understand right.
-You draw a boat on the ground in chalk
-un-roll a tarp folded in half on the chalk and pat it down
-draw the boat again on the top layer of the cloth?
Not "kooky" at all if experienced in traditional methods of canvas work that descended from the art of Sailmaking. Think about the method of laying and cutting a sail on the floor and transfer that concept somewhat into marking, overlaying and cutting a cover on the floor by using triangulation, chalking/pinned & stringed, and then overlaying from bolts of canvas to reach the prepared shape on the floor. :)
Quote from: Peppy on September 14, 2010, 05:59:55 pm
Should we start a new thread?
Here's just fine. :tup:
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
Quote from: Peppy on September 14, 2010, 05:59:55 pm
Not "kooky" at all if experienced in traditional methods of canvas work that descended from the art of Sailmaking. Think about the method of laying and cutting a sail on the floor and transfer that concept somewhat into marking, overlaying and cutting a cover on the floor by using triangulation, chalking/pinned & stringed, and then overlaying from bolts of canvas to reach the prepared shape on the floor. :)
One thing I do that I learned as a child sewing clothes from pre-made patterns is how to transfer marks from one side of fabric to the other. Simply stick a pin through at key points on the line (such as the points of a dart) then lift the fabric and mark where the pins come through on the other side. Still do that with darts and cut lines on many canvas covers where the marks for whatever reason end up on the wrong side of the fabric. I've also had boat outlines reproduced on my living room floor in masking tape based on measures taken from the real thing ;D
June
http://milfordpreschoolplus.co.uk/scs/odds_sods/018.JPG
nice work pdq just wondering how you treat the insides of theese inlayed windows?
Quote from: JuneC on October 05, 2010, 07:09:59 pm
One thing I do that I learned as a child sewing clothes from pre-made patterns is how to transfer marks from one side of fabric to the other. Simply stick a pin through at key points on the line (such as the points of a dart) then lift the fabric and mark where the pins come through on the other side. Still do that with darts and cut lines on many canvas covers where the marks for whatever reason end up on the wrong side of the fabric. I've also had boat outlines reproduced on my living room floor in masking tape based on measures taken from the real thing ;D
June
You got it, June. :tup:
Quote from: Mike8560 on October 05, 2010, 08:18:59 pm
http://milfordpreschoolplus.co.uk/scs/odds_sods/018.JPG
nice work pdq just wondering how you treat the insides of theese inlayed windows?
I treat them with utter contempt, Mike. ;D
Actually, I have a number of images that will give you a better idea in how I do mine (various ways). I'll dig them out and upload them when I get the chance. :)
Quote from: PDQ on October 05, 2010, 10:11:41 am
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
No worries, no hurries!
Quote from: PDQ on October 05, 2010, 10:11:41 am
For me it's a question of symmetry of the frame work, the boat, or both. Considering that the majority of work are remakes and as such the frame work has been produced elsewhere, together with wear & tear/abuse of the frames throughout its lifetime leaves one to be very suspicious of anything being symmetric, not to mention the sometimes laughable tolerances of a modern day boat builder.
So does that mean that if you were making the frame and installing the snaps on a naked boat you would do 1/2 a pattern?
I'm beginning to realize that 1/2 a pattern is only advantageous if you do the 'cut two layers of cloth at once with a hot knife' trick. On topgun or stamoid tops where it's cut with scissors it's a bit of a pain cutting first the top layer then cutting the bottom layer without everything moving. And cutting two layers of cloth at once is only good if your working with a 1/2 a pattern. Who would want 2 identical boat tops? It's only worth it when your cutting one side to get two.
Quote from: PDQ on October 05, 2010, 10:11:41 am
Think about the method of laying and cutting a sail on the floor and transfer that concept somewhat into marking, overlaying and cutting a cover on the floor by using triangulation, chalking/pinned & stringed, and then overlaying from bolts of canvas to reach the prepared shape on the floor. :)
Okay I get the principles of triangulation and the laying out I don't really get what your gaining by drawing your 'boat' twice in chalk (once on the floor and again on the top layer of cloth, do I have that right?) Does triangulation save time? I understand the advantage of not stretching huge patterns over windy boats but a pattern seems more idiot proof. Trust me, I need proofing.
Quote from: PDQ on October 05, 2010, 10:11:41 am
Not "kooky" at all if experienced in traditional methods of canvas work that descended from the art of Sailmaking
Well thats my problem right there :) I'm a product of the 'figure it out as you go' method of boat topping.
Lastly,
Quote from: PDQ on October 05, 2010, 10:11:41 am
:tup:
Whats that mean?
Peppy: "I really don't understand the DOT method personally. Seems like it's making life a lot tougher than it needs to be. I can't believe people can make something that looks good without seeing it first. I guess I'm too dumb and have to see it to believe it."
Well, all I can say Pep-man is that it isn't really at all that much different than what you do.
I use plastic like PDQ and my patterns look much like his.
The only 'dots' are located along the tubing to mark centers and edges of tops and side panels and also dots at the hull to mark where the panel corners meet.
Otherwise, I still have windows, doors/zips and other marks like seams just like you do...
I guess I should say "I don't understand the advantages of the dot system if the the dot system is used as this guy presents it."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Etxh7N_kgI
It's at about the 2 minute mark before he gets around to patterning.
What I don't get, and maybe I'm wrong, he patterns one piece between the bars marks his seam line and reference marks, then takes it off rolls it up and puts it away. Then patterns the next section makes his marks and lines then puts that piece away. Is that how it's done? Or does just this yahoo do it that way?
What I don't get is how can he tell if the bars move? If he bumps a bar after patterning the first section then goes on to the next that'll be a pretty crappy bimini, no? With the 'paper bag method' I have the complete tarp in front of me when I'm done. Each pattern section serves to 'lock' the bars in position. If the bars move I'll see the resulting wrinkles and know I screwed up. Then when the pattern is done I have the freedom to draw my zipper lines where I think they'll look good. Your dots dictate where the zippers are right? What if you want to drop the line an inch or two?
If you do the 'paper bag method' or (plastic as the case may be) Do you draw the seams on the bars first? And why do you do that?
The bars won't move if they're properly strapped together and to the deck with filament tape. Only advantage I see for making two pieces instead of one is that with two, you can stand up right next to the center bar and mark. With a very large bimini, covering the entire frame with one piece of plastic makes it very difficult to mark the middle section of the center bow unless you're hanging from the rigging in a bosun's chair.
Almost always I make a one-piece pattern, pulling firmly across the top/center. Then where you'd normally put darts along the outer edge of the center bow where the pattern bags, pull the pattern firmly aft and mark along the bow. Then pull the pattern forward and mark again, along the bow. What you're left with is basically an inverted "V" that shows how much excess to take out along that bow. In the center where I can't reach to mark on the outside, I run my Sharpie along the bow from the inside. With a mark along both sides of the center, I can then add on an inch on both sides (assumes side to side seam, not fore/aft) and I've got my curve for the center pocket.
I guess I use a combination of methods. Not really true to the dot method.
June
Quote from: Peppy on November 28, 2010, 10:59:46 am
What I don't get, and maybe I'm wrong, he patterns one piece between the bars marks his seam line and reference marks, then takes it off rolls it up and puts it away. Then patterns the next section makes his marks and lines then puts that piece away. Is that how it's done? Or does just this yahoo do it that way?
What I don't get is how can he tell if the bars move?
i do mine like that actually .If you have to do the top pattern from in the boat, its the only way to do it i can think of in mosy cases. to be able to stand up sticking your head up in the rear or front of the top/ i use blue painter tape under he seam tape im sure he gets tape residue when he sake off the stapping tape. use strappint tape to securly the frames or " bars" in place from mving and dont touch the frames
just as if you patterned the top then the side window.
DONTP TOUCH .the frames
i dont agree with him where he marks his front and rear bows for the seam.
Quote from: JuneC on November 28, 2010, 02:59:57 pm
The bars won't move if they're properly strapped together and to the deck with filament tape.
I don't trust filament tape as much as you. I've had some terrible disasters, like the tape spontaneously snapping if it's not pulled perfectly in line from bar to bar, or the glue lets go (on the window usually) from heat or Armor All or on the bar due to repositioning. I think it does stretch a little too. I bet I pull my patterns a lot more than you. Or use less tape. These are partly the reasons I developed the strapping/fish scale method of tensioning frames. I still use lots of filament tape but in a supporting role. So to speak.
Quote from: JuneC on November 28, 2010, 02:59:57 pm
With a very large bimini, covering the entire frame with one piece of plastic makes it very difficult to mark the middle section of the center bow unless you're hanging from the rigging in a bosun's chair.
I wonder how our good man Mr. PDQ does it? And thats the bonus then? I figured as much but never had it spelled out before. It just seems to me that it's introducing variables and uncertainties into the system. The bars
could move. And how would you know till you're done? Even a 1/2" somewhere could really screw you up.
Quote from: Mike8560 on December 01, 2010, 02:17:18 pm
DONTP TOUCH .the frames
Ya but shit happens sometimes right? Then what? Each piece of my pattern 'locks' the bars in place. (on the con side it's easy to tighten each section pulling the bars out of parallel and making the seams (side to side on the bars) run in a shallow V on the finished tarp. Why I don't trust filament tape too much.
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i do mine like that actually .If you have to do the top pattern from in the boat, its the only way to do it i can think of in mosy cases. to be able to stand up sticking your head up in the rear or front of the top
I know one other way, pattern half! Then you get the bonus double cutting thing too!
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i dont agree with him where he marks his front and rear bows for the seam.
Me neither.
i hueese i didnt read the entire thread and see Junes ?s even doing only half as i will do on many mooring covers, ive never done half and top or enclosure yet. how do you mark the pattern when its a big top say 5 bow that goese all the way to the stern boat sitting in the water?
i knew a giy who had a trick whrere he would stick strapping tape back onto itself and pull it and have it5 break.. usubg shrinh plastic i olny pull tight enough to take out the wrinkle. i wouldnt want to streach the plastic. so i dont pull too tight at all.