I have my Great Grandmother's old rocking chair. She traded 2 of her paintings and some items she made for this chair....MANY year ago. Granny Bolton sat in this chair every day and I remember seeing her in this chair for as far back as I can remember. It was then handed down to my Grandmother and then my parents didn't want the chair and I said I wanted it because it was comfortable and it was from my Great Grandparents old place. As best I can find out, this chair is between 70 & 90 years old. We used it here in our home until the duct tape ceased to hold the upholstery together any more.
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I found all kinds of stuff inside this chair. Some old beads that Granny used to string beads to make stuff with, old safety pins like the ones she used to help hold her cooking apron on her dress while she cooked, old pennies, and even a piece of an old envelope that was wadded up down inside the chair that had a small ball of cotton thread safely tucked away for safe keeping.
You see, they lived through the Great Depression...and they kept EVERYTHING, no matter how trivial and useless it seemed....they kept it. More about all this later on I guess.
But now, you see what I'm starting with and yes, this is my very first upholstery work of anything more than a simple seat cushion. May be more than I've bargained for, but this chair was family for many years and I'm just cut from the cloth where family passes on family. So.....I have this chair and I'm going to make it useful and pretty again for my kids to pass on to their kids. (I hope) :D
Good luck and keep us posted with the progress. Be sure to take plenty of pictures from different angles as you take it apart. That will help when putting things back together.
There's lot's of help on this forum, so don't be scared to ask questions!
Also, try reading the picture posting sticky. Try posting clickable thumbs. That way we can see what you're talking about while we're reading, and can click on it for a bigger picture and more detail.
http://get-up-and-go.com/upholstery-forum/index.php?topic=7472.0
BTW....Welcome!
Awesome Dennis. Be sure and keep us posted with pictures as you go. If you run into an issue, pop back on here and ask for help. We have some of the countries greatest furniture restorers on here.
Glad to see you getting in this upholstery trade.
Chris
Thanks Bobby.! I'll read up on picture posting and get that resolved by the weekend I hope.
Chris, that bud....I'll be on here for a bit while I muddle my way through this project. The good this is that I'm "learning to sew" and my wife has been sewing most all her life. We just seem to have troubles controlling this cotton-pickin' clutch motor for needle speed while sewing.!
While I don't have a real nice machine, it does the trick, I just wish it would sew SLOWER for those of us just learning.!! :D
Quote from: sawdustar on September 03, 2010, 05:26:54 am
Thanks Bobby.! I'll read up on picture posting and get that resolved by the weekend I hope.
Chris, that bud....I'll be on here for a bit while I muddle my way through this project. The good this is that I'm "learning to sew" and my wife has been sewing most all her life. We just seem to have troubles controlling this cotton-pickin' clutch motor for needle speed while sewing.!
While I don't have a real nice machine, it does the trick, I just wish it would sew SLOWER for those of us just learning.!! :D
My new machine has a servo motor and it is awesome. I love it. I can dial the speed down and stitch real slow or turn the dial up and run it like a Ferrari.
If you get to the point where you want to upgrade to a servo motor then get in touch with Bob Kovar from Toledo Sewing. I can provide you his phone number. He has some great deals on servos.
What your experiencing is the same thing that I and everyone else on here went through the first time we sat down to a commercial machine. In time the speed factor will go away and you will be sewing like a pro.
Chris
What a cool chair, but I don't think the duct tape does much to enhance its lines, lol. Nice that it has meaning for you, too.
I periodically do a "deep cavity search" of the husband's chair and it never fails to turn up some interesting items that've gone missing. The best find was the Leatherman tool that he lost about 6 mos. after purchasing it... was he ever excited when I left it on his bureau.
OK....the LOML and I now have the chair upholstery removed, down to frame, springs, and remaining padding of sorts. Found that I need to repair the stretcher board across the lower-back of the chair frame (good thing I'm a woodworker too ;D ). We hope to start making our patterns from the old pieces Sunday afternoon (after church and a short nap :) )
The old cotton smell of the padding inside reminds me of when my Granddaddy worked at our local cotton gin.....many years ago. Ah the memories..... 8)
Sawduster: After you've been doing this a while, you'll stop being amazed at the things you find inside a piece of furniture.
I once stripped down a sofa that had over 90 buttons, all of them were tied off on the inside using Kotexes (or whatever the plural of Kotex is). BTW they were UNUSED, thankfully.
It used to be mostly loose change. Now it's mostly fingernail clippers, and remote controls.
I used to find a ton of pocket knives. But now, with all of the metal detectors that you have to go through every day, not as many people carry pocket knives any more.
Progress report:
All pieces have been removed, taken apart, and we have started to measure each piece to make sure we have enough material bought to re-cover the chair. We are also trying to figure out how much foam to buy for the back and seat...and etc, etc, etc.
Progress is being made, I'm just trying to figure out how to "figure it all out". ???
Quote from: sawdustar on September 05, 2010, 03:34:19 am
Progress report:
All pieces have been removed, taken apart, and we have started to measure each piece to make sure we have enough material bought to re-cover the chair. We are also trying to figure out how much foam to buy for the back and seat...and etc, etc, etc.
Progress is being made, I'm just trying to figure out how to "figure it all out". ???
Wait till you get a load of foam prices. YIKES. They said the foam prices went up because of oil prices a couple years ago. Now that the prices on oil is down it would be nice if they lowered the price of foam. :)
BTW, if you need to cut any foam, steal your wife's electric carving knife, spray both blades with silicone spray and use that to cut your foam. Works great. :)
Chris
OK....here it what the chair looks like now.
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I also have a large bag stuffed FULL of the old cotton stuffing. So soft and smells like fresh ginned cotton. Reminds me of my childhood. ;D
Hi
I'll be intersted to see how you get on , best of luck with it ..
wasn't there a thread not very long ago about finding animals in old seats ? ?
might be worth doing a search
Rich,uk
So how do I figure out what foam I need to put back in the chair? There are so many to choose from and it all means nothing to me until I read more about foam and how it's rated.
I do know that I have 2 couches in my home now. One you sit on and sink into it. It's hard to get out of and is not really comfortable at all (it was given to us for free). The other couch is one we bought about 20 years ago and has a nice firm seating and backing to it. Easy to sit on, comfy, and easy to get up off the couch.
I want this nice firm, long-lasting foam in this chair that we are working on in this thread. The old stuffing was roughly ginned cotton and a lot of burlap.
Then my next search is where to get the advised foam.
OK...spring repair work is done. Frame fixes done. Covered springs with some canvas material to give the bottom and the back some smoother lines to follow with the cushions are made and mounted.
Now I'm just trying to figure out how to sew the piping/welting for the chair seat. I have 4 different feet for the Yamata and nothing written on them to tell me what they are or what size they are.
I guess I'm going to have to buy new feet for this machine so I'll know what feet to use and when. Sheesh.!!!! :-[
Dennis:
The welt foot that you need to sew welt with is very easy to distinguish. Look at the bottom, if it is flat it is not a welt foot. If it has a curved surface then it is a welt foot.
If you want to post pictures of all your feet for this machine that you currently have then we can help identify them for you and tell you what each one is used for.
If you need additional feet then you can give Bob Kovar a call. His prices are very good.
Post some pics and we can help you out with what you currently have.
Chris
I finally figure out that I have 3 different welting feet and a double welting foot. It appears that one of the welting feet is for 1/16" chord and another is about a 1/4" welting foot. I picked the one in the middle of the two and we used that one for the 5/32" welting. It worked pretty good if you asked me since this is the first time the LOML and I have ever used a welting foot. ;)
I have GOT to do something about that clutch motor. Wide open or stop just doesn't get it. I know that "finesse" on the pedal and one can learn to control the speed of the machine, but I have a lead foot and I can get it to just start and then it takes off while I'm trying to figure out how to keep it all under some kind of manageable control. :-[
I've seen a lot of servo motors on eBay and it appears that the price is all over the place and I "think" that I need to get a 3/4 HP servo motor to replace the clutch motor. Is 3/4 HP too much or should I get a 1/2 HP motor and go with that?
We've started covering the chair...got the inner wings done on both arms. Starting to work on the front of the chair next and working Naugahyde is a real challenge to get it all the way ya think it needs to go. I already know of a couple of mistakes and one of them will be fairly noticeable when looking at the front of both arms at once. :-[ >:(
But, We are already planning on doing another recliner but this time, in cloth. ;)
Yea, We have a LOT to learn, but at least the LOML and I can do this together and it's an inside job as well....so that makes it good too. :)
Yes, a 1/4" welt foot is appropriate for 5/32 cording. I know that you are talking about getting a new machine a year from now. If you can hold out til then, you'll probably get a better "package deal" on a new head, stand, and servo motor.
Those E- Bay stores have some tempting prices. But many of them don't really even know anything about walking foot machines, and will sell you the wrong motor for what you're trying to do. I wouldn't worry too much about HP when choosing a servo motor. Gregg sold me mine. I have no idea what the HP is.
Quote from: sofadoc on September 14, 2010, 08:24:22 pm
Yes, a 1/4" welt foot is appropriate for 5/32 cording. I know that you are talking about getting a new machine a year from now. If you can hold out til then, you'll probably get a better "package deal" on a new head, stand, and servo motor.
Those E- Bay stores have some tempting prices. But many of them don't really even know anything about walking foot machines, and will sell you the wrong motor for what you're trying to do. I wouldn't worry too much about HP when choosing a servo motor. Gregg sold me mine. I have no idea what the HP is.
Well, take a look at the motor plate and read the Watts rating on the motor. 400 Watt motor represents a 1/2 HP motor. 1 HP in Watts is roughly 745 Watts.
Dennis:
I forgot to mention in an earlier post that to help you better control the machine, try sewing with just your socks on your feet or use a thin slipper. You will have a better feel of the pedal this way. I always sew in my moose skin slippers. Sounds crazy but I have a much better feel of the pedal. I do not have good feeling in my feet to begin with so this helps.
Also, an old seamstress once gave me some great advice as well. Place your foot on the pedal so the ball of your feet is near the top of the pedal. This will also help with your feel in addition to helping with those jack rabbit starts. :)
If all of this fails, contact Bob Kovar and tell him you need a servo motor..................LOL.
Chris
There are a lot of fine people selling things on E-Bay. But there are a lot jerks out there, too. I read some of the ads for sewing machines and I'm flabbergasted by the amount of BS. Machines I know are "home grade" are regularly touted as "industrial". And there is a huge aount of hoopla about "antiques". Give me a break! old sewing machines by Singer, White, and W&G are a dime a dozen. Most are likely worth more as scrap metal, frankly.
If you want to purchase a new machine, Sawdustar, do yourself a big favor and contact a reputable dealer, someone you know will service your machine and help you through the learning process. There is no substitute for a solid, respectful, working relationship with your dealer/mechanic. Trust me on this.
Quote from: bobbin on September 15, 2010, 09:28:05 am
There are a lot of fine people selling things on E-Bay. But there are a lot jerks out there, too. I read some of the ads for sewing machines and I'm flabbergasted by the amount of BS. Machines I know are "home grade" are regularly touted as "industrial". And there is a huge aount of hoopla about "antiques". Give me a break! old sewing machines by Singer, White, and W&G are a dime a dozen. Most are likely worth more as scrap metal, frankly.
If you want to purchase a new machine, Sawdustar, do yourself a big favor and contact a reputable dealer, someone you know will service your machine and help you through the learning process. There is no substitute for a solid, respectful, working relationship with your dealer/mechanic. Trust me on this.
Gotcha bobbin....!!
I'm fairly limited on what I have access to UNLESS it's on the Internet. I live in central Arkansas and the only upholstery supplier is over an hours drive away from me. If I want a tool? It's an hours drive OR I have to order it online and have it shipped in.
Industrial sewing machines? Forget it.! I would have to drive to Texas to find one.
My preference is to support local shops first....and I do that...and we buy as much "American Made" stuff as we can find....but woodworking and upholstery machines and supplies? No way. Hard to find and you're going to DRIVE a ways to even get to see anything related to what you could be looking for.
As far as I'm concerned? I'm dealing with what vendors I can find right here on the forum by the advice of those that have dealt with said vendors before.
This is Dennis - In Conway - Saving his pennies to get a really nice machine one day soon. ;)
Dennis, I know how it can be when you live miles and miles away from the storefronts of big dealers. I grew up in really rural place, too. It sucked and that's why I don't live there anymore, lol!
The beauty of the internet is that you can work with great dealers from your home area. The wider the "world wide web" becomes the closer we all are... and that means that there is probably someone relatively close by who can help you out. Someone you may not even know about!
Scare-y, huh?
Dennis in Conway: I'm in Greenville, Tx (about 50 miles NE of Dallas). A&A Fabrics in Glenwood delivers to me 4 times a year. I also have a supplier in Baytown, Tx who brings supplies to me twice a year. A foam supply truck in Tyler, Tx comes once a week, as long as I give them a minimum order of $250. I haven't had anything (other than fabric) shipped to me in years.
Have you talked to Jim at A&A? I'll bet he knows who can take care of your sewing needs in the area.
Good Luck!!
Dennis in Greenville
Quote from: sofadoc on September 15, 2010, 05:07:58 pm
Dennis in Conway: I'm in Greenville, Tx (about 50 miles NE of Dallas). A&A Fabrics in Glenwood delivers to me 4 times a year. I also have a supplier in Baytown, Tx who brings supplies to me twice a year. A foam supply truck in Tyler, Tx comes once a week, as long as I give them a minimum order of $250. I haven't had anything (other than fabric) shipped to me in years.
Have you talked to Jim at A&A? I'll bet he knows who can take care of your sewing needs in the area.
Good Luck!!
Dennis in Greenville
Dennis in Greenville, :)
A&A in Glenwood, AR, I'll have to look them up and talk to "Jim". Thanks for the tips and advise much appreciated.
QuoteA&A in Glenwood, AR, I'll have to look them up and talk to "Jim". Thanks for the tips and advise much appreciated.
Dennis, A & A in Glenwood is a good company for all your upholstery needs and I too think Jim can give you local machine support contact. Little Rock will have someone for sure, they always did. It won't be a car dealer affair, maybe a mechanic with a box of tools and knowledge but he knows where to get the machine parts. Shreveport , La. used to have a couple machine suppliers and service. I still buy from A & A and will look up their phone number, if you are against a stone wall. The number is at my business. Let me know if you can't connect.
I am in St.Louis and we have excellent service/sales support, plus at least two local suppliers for machine parts. I can drive to them within 20 minutes and get anything that is available.
Don't get dismayed, service is out there, try Jim for starters, as they might be closer. If you need phone numbers let us know, best to check out your back door.
Doyle
Dennis: Another good source of info for you might Jack Carr. He lives just down the road from you in Vilonia.
He has a nice website with a discussion board similar to this one:
www.carrscorner.com
Quote from: sawdustar on September 14, 2010, 07:50:14 pm
I have GOT to do something about that clutch motor. Wide open or stop just doesn't get it. I know that "finesse" on the pedal and one can learn to control the speed of the machine, but I have a lead foot and I can get it to just start and then it takes off while I'm trying to figure out how to keep it all under some kind of manageable control. :-[
This is the servo motor I got on my machine from Keystone, I can sew one stitch at a time. Plenty of control and power. Best money you can spend IMO. ;D And it includes shipping. We have 2 machine companies on the board. I bought mine from Gregg at Keystone. Bob Kovar is the other one. I don't personally know him, but he gets good reviews on here too. I would stay away from buying a servo on eBay. No matter how cheap it is, it's not a good deal if it won't do what you want! :'(
http://www.keysew.com/Reliable_Sewquiet_4000.htm
Well, It's about time to gear up for more upholstery work. The LOML and I are working more stuff and we are finding that Naugahyde is not the easiest stuff to work with on ones FIRST upholstery project. ;)
We have a recliner that needs some repair as well as recovering. We've bought some cloth upholstery material to recover it with (on sale) and we are planning on selling it to a needy family that really has no furniture, for just the cost of the material ($25).
You see, we are a family that looks to help and serve others. We buy groceries for those that are hungry, we mow lawns of the sick and elderly, we clean houses for those that are sick and can't do it on their own, we cut and deliver for free, firewood to a couple of elderly couples who would otherwise not have heat for the winter.
After all, it's not about us...it's about the One that has called us to serve others in love and grace. ;D
QuoteAlso, an old seamstress once gave me some great advice as well. Place your foot on the pedal so the ball of your feet is near the top of the pedal.
:o :o :o You've got to be kidding,Chris. That is akin to moving the seat of your car back so that you can only reach the brake pedal with a toenail and trying to run the gas pedal without your heel on the floor.
Dennis; flip back through the archives. I've posted a zillion times about the importance of body posture and foot position for speed control. Short version is thigh parallel to floor, lower leg vertical, and ankle over the pivot of the treadle. The best "training aids" I ever had were my old treadle sewing machines.Anytime a new sewwer (sp) had speed issues, I'd put them on one of them until they found that sweet spot where it was just a rock of the one foot to run the machine. This is where you want to be on an electric as well. The difference is amazing. The most common problem is for them to want to be too close to the project. This bends the lower leg back and they seldom even think about what they are sitting on.
I was once told I was full of bunk with this; so I proved it to the guy. I sat him "correctly" in the middle of the room and put the remote on the floor. First i had him wiggle his toes, then touch buttons on the remote. Then I had him sit "incorrectly" and do the same drills. Try it. Move the remote back 4-6" and the chair up/down the same.
I am very new at sewing and I read a post by Darren about the correct way to position yourself to sew. I am here to tell you you will be amazed at the difference. I had the same issues as you start slow then take off like a bat out of hades, or just take off full speed. After positioning my legs and properly I can consistently stitch1 stitch at a time on a clutch machine. Sometimes it gets away fom me still, but I get better every time I sit down at the machine.
Thanks for the endorsement Hide. It's such a simple thing that some people just poo-poo it. "that can't help" "I just need to buy bigger and better".
Along with this comes adjusting the table to suit you. Most tables are adjustable for height; so June and I are probably set up lower than Russ or Mike. Start with setting it a comfortable height. If it has a knee lift; sit with your nose,buttons and such straight behind the needle and bring the pad for the knee lift over to where you want it once you have your chair set to the right height so that your thigh is parallel to the floor without too much weight on the front of the seat. ;) If your chair doesn't adjust-- you've just figured out where to set your table ;) . The only caution here is: if you have it too close and let your knees splay apart while sewing you can accidentally take weight off your presser foot.
The treadle linkage ,while butt simple, does get a little finicky the first time out because you don't know yet where you want to be. She's a little trial and error,but you only have three adjustments : 1) there is a tension spring above the bar that engages the clutch with a wing nut on it . This controls the treadle resistance. 2) the further out you place the connecting rods from the treadle to said clutch arm (Gregg and Bob are probably laughing at my nomenclature ) the further the travel "between gears". 3) set the linkage rods to a comfortable treadle position.
Hope this helps.
Understand....but I have short legs and short arms....so my chest is almost touching the table edge when I'm sitting there working at the sewing machine. I've adjusted the position of the treadle to be much closer to the front edge of the table and that has helped some.
I had no idea that the knee lift could be moved/adjusted. I'll have to look at that.
The LOML and I have made good progress on the chair. Arms/wings are done, front of the chair is done, and the seat cushion with welting is done.....good thing the LOML knows how to sew. ;)
I've sat and worked at the sewing machine. I just can't seem to find a sweet-spot of controlling the speed other than wide open and stop. :( So....with that said, the LOML and I are saving our pennies for a servo motor. We figured out that if "I" was the motor (using a stick that fits in the hole in the machine pulley) I could run the machine at a manageable speed for her in the complicated locations of sewing. It's goes something like this....ok go.........STOP.! Ok go.......Stop!....ok reverse....ok stop :D
So you see....even though she can run the machine pretty well....we both see the need for a better way of speed control.
QuoteUnderstand....but I have short legs and short arms....so my chest is almost touching the table edge when I'm sitting there working at the sewing machine
:-\ I'm 5'6" (29" inside leg and 20" reach) and it still sounds to me like you are sitting too close.
Another thought; what RPM is your motor and what size pulley on the motor? If this machine came out of a factory it could be pimped right out for speed. We might be able to make some inexpensive adjustments while you set the coin aside for the servo.
Aye, and I'm at 5'0" with my tables set at their very lowest level and pneumatic chairs set at the max height - otherwise I'd be peering at the needle over the edge of the table. It took me probably a year to get good speed control of my clutch, but just a thought here... you mechanics correct me quick if I'm wrong... couldn't the clutch be grabbing when he accelerates? Maybe some petroleum jelly on the disk to make it slip?
June
Darren, I worked in production settings for several years. And I can attest to everything you've said about proper posture and positioning behind/(in front of?) a machine. Comfort is everything when you are expected to sew for 7 hrs./day. When you get paid by the piece your comfort is intimately tied to your productivity and therefore to your paycheck!
"Hunching", bending, reaching are very tiring activities over time, though you would likely never be able to identify them as the root cause of fatigue after a single day at work.
As June pointed out, her statuesque 5' frame has different needs than does my own 5'5" frame, or the frame of my boss (5'8"). The tables in my own shop and the machine bench adjustments are, "all about me"... given my druthers I'd much prefer to work entirely at home, where everything is set for my own needs and comfort.
You would have made a killing working for Henry Ford... time is money, baby! and comfortable, efficient work stations maximize productivity.
Quote from: JuneC on September 25, 2010, 07:35:43 am
couldn't the clutch be grabbing when he accelerates? Maybe some petroleum jelly on the disk to make it slip?
June
I have loosened the belt to the point that it almost slips on some old junkers years ago. It does help, but you still have to develop a "touch" with your foot.
Dennis, Darren, Bobbin, and June: I'm 5'8". I guess if we get a basketball team together, I'll have to play center!! :D
Well, what I can say is that I have a 27" inseam and my legs have frequently been described as "sawed off telephone poles". ;D
Yes, I used to play football. 5' 8" on a good day but built like a compact tank. Raised and worked on a farm most of my life and I was guilty a lot of times breaking bolts off, shearing off motor mount bolts, and just generally getting in trouble for making things too tight because it just didn't "feel" tight enough to me. :)
No I suffer from the great furniture disease.....my chest done fell in my drawers. I no longer look like I could bench press 475 pounds nor clean snatch 290 pounds over my head. I simply look like a short fat dude that needs to grow some longer legs. :D
I will see what I can do on more adjustments.
In the past, there was a tech guy who put oil on the clutch and said it helped. The type of oil, it was not stated.
I suppose, developing the touch has been important controlling the machine.
BTW, what are you short people going to be when you grow up? ;)
Being small is an advantage for doing some of the auto interior work.
Doyle
Seems like I'm the high end outlier here. 6'5" and 37" sleeves. As I told some guys at church last week trying to put on food handling vinyl gloves, "One size fits all" is just a cruel lie. It took me a year to find some XXL work gloves.
QuoteBTW, what are you short people going to be when you grow up? Wink
:D Die just like everybody else, DUH. :P As grandma always said "it ain't the size of the dog in the fight---it;s the size of the fight in the dog" ;D
QuoteI will see what I can do on more adjustments
Farm raised 8) ; you're on the short track. Physics is physics. Ten speeds or bailers or potatoe havestors or sewing machines. the longer you can make the travel on the treadle>>> the more "gears". The smaller the drive pulley>> the slower you go.But check that data plate please. If you have 3350 RPM instead of 1750; we're hooped until you and your better half get real experienced.
Quote from: Darren Henry on September 26, 2010, 08:45:57 am
QuoteBTW, what are you short people going to be when you grow up? Wink
:D Die just like everybody else, DUH. :P As grandma always said "it ain't the size of the dog in the fight---it;s the size of the fight in the dog" ;D
QuoteI will see what I can do on more adjustments
Farm raised 8) ; you're on the short track. Physics is physics. Ten speeds or bailers or potatoe havestors or sewing machines. the longer you can make the travel on the treadle>>> the more "gears". The smaller the drive pulley>> the slower you go.But check that data plate please. If you have 3350 RPM instead of 1750; we're hooped until you and your better half get real experienced.
Nope...to tater harvesters for me, but I have hand-cranked many a tractors in my time. ;)
I will check motor speed and pulley size tonight after work.
I just got a machine and I put the smallest pulley I found in my workshop on my clutch motor. It's probably a 1-1/2" pulley.
I had to use a shorter belt but it really slowed down the machine where I can do a stitch at a time. Before I had off or full on. Forget about stopping at the end of the piece to turn a corner. Before I even thought about stopping the piece was already all the way through the machine. I figured I'd try the pulley first before I bought the clutch motor.
I'm just doing practice pieces now, haven't actually made anything yet.
Motor speed shows to be 1725 RPM on the motor plate.
I changed out the pulley to a 1-1/2" pulley.
I also adjusted the tension to a more "loose" adjustment on the spring that adjusts the tension needed to engage the clutch on the motor.
I guess we'll see how that goes next week when we start more sewing.
QuoteForget about stopping at the end of the piece to turn a corner. Before I even thought about stopping the piece was already all the way through the machine.
I don't want to sound like a smart alack ; but in all this talk about the basics, the brake has never come up. That's the other reason for having your foot on the "sweet spot". It's just a quick press of the heel to engage the brake instead of having to move your foot down the treadle. If the table has been used in a factory etc where the operator was on piece work and production [ they're "balls to the wall"--" lock up the binders" --repeat] your brake may not be 100%. How much of a difference do you feel while hand crank the machine from locked up through free wheeling to okay now I'm dragging the motor, I must be engaged?
OK, The LOML and I are now "stumped" on this chair.
We used the old material from the old chair coverings to pattern the new parts from. Everything worked fine except for the seat top and the back. The seat was easy enough to fix but the back cushion is another matter.
We have the foam cut and wrapped in cotton batting. We can set that against the back of the chair and down on top of the seat cushion and it fits fine. Our problem is that the new pieces we cut for this chair back are too large (almost like the old pieces are stretched somewhat) and we know that the back has all those tears in it that are being held with duct tape.
The new back cushion is a nice fit, but how do we pattern the material for the new covering for it?
Also....trying to figure out how to pattern and sew the new back cushion material around those arms on the chair is yet another brain teaser.!!!
Just one final word...... HELP.!!
Some cloth fabrics do tend to stretch with age, thus causing the panel that you patterned from to be too big. But vinyl usualy contracts with age, so I'm not sure what caused your new cover to come out too large. But anyway, since you are new at this, you might have do a little "trial & error" by making a cover first out of scraps, until you get a good template for the finished product. After you've done a few, you'll be able make a good fitting cover without a pattern, which is sometimes necessary when the old cover is in bad shape.
Too big even with the buttons reinstalled? They'll pull out some of the excess if you still have them out. They may also be responsible for you having patterned it too big in the first place. When making new pieces and the old cover is not available nor good enough to use for a pattern, I pattern based on the foam size/shape without dacron - dacron just helps fill out the cushion for a plump look and feel. Non-stretchy fabric I pattern to the size of the foam plus 1/2" all around for selvedge, while vinyl I pattern to the exact size since it stretches quite a bit.
June
[quote The new back cushion is a nice fit, but how do we pattern the material for the new covering for it?][/quote]
I like to go a little tighter than June (depending on the fabric or course). I'll make my cushion 1" bigger than the opening and cut the fabric to the same size as the foam. The seam allowance will then make the cushion the correct size and the foam is holding it "full" not the dacron. I was taught that this would keep it from "bagging out" prematurely.
:-\ just what I was taught.
Well, the LOML and I finally finished that (insert your favorite wordy-durd here) chair. All went well UNTIL we got to the back cushion for the chair. We almost came to divorce grounds over that stupid thang.!!!! The back cushion has been done and redone several times. We've both fussed and fumed as well as thought about throwing the stupid chair on the burn pile out back.
BUT....we persevered.!!!!!! It's not perfect and we learned a LOT..!!!! We also figured out that working with a heavy weight Naugahyde is NOT what you really want your FIRST upholstery project to be made out of and learning how to wrestle with a material that has a mind of its own!!!!
Anyway, I'll post a couple pics once I get them downloaded from the camera.
Now to allow the LOML's nerves and my nerves to calm down and just be glad it's over and done with. :-[
OK....here are a couple of pics to show that it's done....mistakes and all. ;D
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg69%2Fsawdustar%2FUpholstery%2FDSCF3744-finished-chair.jpg&hash=5173ea3fdb3e956934e1473b48717098)
and
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg69%2Fsawdustar%2FUpholstery%2FDSCF3740-Tracy-ThumbsUp.jpg&hash=d6d51b08f402269957261e61658494a9)
Lookin good Sawdustar and the chairs not bad ether.
Thanks.!! The old chair had a lot of folds, wrinkles, and such made into the chair. We stuffed a bit more "stuffing" into the old chair to make it sit better. Perfect...it is not....but it is 100% better than the old chair. 8)