Walking Foot Technique

[go_hercules]

I am trying to figure out how to backtrack along a stitch line.  For example, when reaching the tip of a topstitched flame, I would like to continue by backtracking along the same stitch holes I just did to finish the other side of the flame.  Problem is, when I lift the foot on my Consew 206, it really doesn't lift high enough to get a good look under it to see the stitch holes.  What am I missing?  I am using the regular flat foot.  Is there a different foot that allows me to see under there better?  Of course it's black material and black thread so that doesn't help matters a lot.  Also, is it okay to handwheel multiple stitches with the foot lifted, or will the stitches not be tight?  Thanks a lot.

[SHHR]

Check your knee lift adjustment. I have a 206 and it's advertised for the foot to lift 9/16''. Mine wasn't coming near that only for me to discover that the rod for the knee lift pad was wrong and actually hitting the bottom of the table before maximum lift was acheived. I loosened a set screw, re-adjusted, and tightened it back up. It works much better now.
Kyle

[MinUph]

hercules,
  When you lift the foot of any machine the tension will be lost. So you are correct in thinking the stitches will be loose if you hand wheel with the foot up. Kyle's recommendation seems best. The foot should raise up high enough to see the holes.

[go_hercules]

Thanks for replying.  I did check my lift and it is going all the way up.  What happens is that at the tip of the flame, I lift the foot and pivot 180 degrees with the needle still down.  Then I lift the foot and hand wheel forward until the needle starts down at which point I try to aim it into the upcoming hole.  Once it hits the hole, should I then lower the foot to complete this stitch?  Then do this up and down with the foot for every stitch hole I'm trying to repeat over?  Oh, by the way, I think I remember seeing a center foot one time with a slit in it from the needle hole toward the operator.  My center foot only has a hole for the needle.  Maybe a foot like that would make it easier to see?

[JuneC]

For high quality top-stitching, I think I'd just stop and tie off the thread and start wherever you still need to stitch.  By having a double thread where you've backtracked, the topstitching is definitely going to look heavier than where you only stitched once. 

June

[go_hercules]

Yeah, maybe I will practice tying some off like you mentioned.  I have seen some that have been stitched back over and they do look heavier, but real clean.  And I have seen some that have been sewn back over without concern for re-hitting the holes and they look pretty cheesy.  I'll keep practicing.  Have you guys seen the foot I was talking about with the little slit in it from the needle hole toward the operator?  I looked for one but haven't found any.  Maybe they are for some other application?  thanks.

[SHHR]

If you have a spare foot or can pick one up cheap, don't be afraid to modify it. Take a hacksaw or preferably an air grinder and cut a slot on the leading edge of the foot up to the needle hole, then just grind or file away any burrs you may get and give it a try.
Kyle

[go_hercules]

Yeah, I think I will try that.  I have a real thin Dremel cut-off wheel I might try.  That way I can see the stitch line right through the slit.  I also thought of taking a center foot and just cutting the front off all the back to the needle.  That way, the rear of the foot could still walk and hold down the material but the front would be wide open to see what I am doing.  And the lead in ramp under the foot wouldn't be necessary for simple top stitching anyway.   What do you think about that idea?

[SHHR]

As long as you have a spare foot, give it a try. I wouldn't want to risk it if it was the only one I had. If you do though, try cutting at the front or leading edge of the needle hole and not behind it. Not only does the foot help "walk" the material through it also compresses the material under the foot for the stitch to lock properly with the right amount of tension.
Kyle

[go_hercules]

Thanks, Kyle.  I am ordering a spare foot to experiment on.  I will cut the leading edge back like you mentioned.  I think that will be easier than cutting a slit, and will probably let me see what I am doing a lot better anyway.  Thanks.

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Go herc,

Flat foot with the slot cut in the front so you can push the thread through IS the standadard foot from the factory for the Consew 206rb series.  This has always been the case since the 70's when they were first brought in. 

And if you can't find this foot you are not asking the correct people.  It's not hard to find.

[hdflame]

Yeah, I think I will try that.  I have a real thin Dremel cut-off wheel I might try.  That way I can see the stitch line right through the slit.  I also thought of taking a center foot and just cutting the front off all the back to the needle.  That way, the rear of the foot could still walk and hold down the material but the front would be wide open to see what I am doing.  And the lead in ramp under the foot wouldn't be necessary for simple top stitching anyway.   What do you think about that idea?

I have tried doing topstitching like you're describing.  Don't backstitch to lock your stitch.  When you make your last stitch, pull 6 or 8 inches of thread out and snip your thread with the extra thread attached to your sewing.  Go on the backside and pull on that thread.  That will pull the last top thread stitch into a little loop on the bottom side.  I then take my seam ripper and stick it in the little loop, being careful not to cut it, and pull the entire top thread through to the bottom, where you can easily tie it off with the extra thread you pulled off before cutting.  After making a knot, trim your thread close.

Now continue your topstitching in another direction.  I usually try to figure a way to do the most stitching with the fewest cutting and tieing.  You don't need to tie it off if you're just changing direction.  Just leave your needle in the material, lift your foot and change direction.  If you're doing very tight intricate stitching, use your handwheel and stitch one at a time if you need to.

My foot that came on my machine has the slit you talk about, but it's still hard to see when doing this type of work.  I've been using a left zipper foot which allows me to see better.  I have also thought of modifying a foot myself with a dremel.

If you're trying to get your needle back in the same stitch hole as another stitch, use your handwheel to bring the needle back to almost touching the fabric (with the foot down) then raise your foot so you can see, and align your needle and using the handwheel, start it into the hole.  Then put your foot back down and continue stitching.  Sometimes I use my reverse lever to move the needle back and forth, while it's in the air, to align to a specific place.  Like getting close to an edge to change direction, where a FULL length stitch would be too far, I just press my reverse lever to align the needle where I want.  You can do this with the foot down.

If you want, I'll try to post some pictures that show what I'm talking about.  Main thing is practice on some scrap material before trying it on your project.  Hope this helps.