Messages

Have to agree with the OP, if you are trying to teach someone you should at very least show them the correct way and the correct tools.In this case she should have been using a ripper chisel and mallet and when removing tacks always go with the grain of the timber.I would have got a wack round the ear as apprentice if I did it her way.....

I have two wood chairs with arms with an upholstered seat.  I'm trying to reupholster them.  They are notched out in the front and back for the arms and the seat is curved alot in the front.  I can't get the fabric to go around these curves and lay flat.  It's a medium weight sort of a corduroy feel upholstery fabric.  Any suggestions or tips?

Difficult without a photo but generally mark center on fabric and chair, then temporary tack front and rear center,make cuts to go around arms and temp tack ,then work to back of seat and cut around back upright,temp tack into place then go back to center tacks and tighten fabric front and rear then work around as normal tacking into place .

Is it just me, or does anyone else also feel that DIY upholstery articles, books and videos are a tad bit insulting to those who've mastered the craft? Time and time again, I keep coming across these online articles that make it seem like just about anyone can do auto upholstery - which I find totally absurd. (1) Because it's misleading to those poor souls who give it a try and wind up wasting money in the process, and (2) because it completely overlooks those aspects of upholstery that you just can't teach - like the artistry of it all.

I rant a bit about it on my blog: http://www.thehogring.com/2011/03/20/the-problem-with-diy-auto-upholstery/

But I'm interested in what you all think. Am I taking this a bit too personal or do I have some merit here?

Frankly you sound like a bit of a snob to me, you work in a trade not a craft and you may or may not be a tradesman but you are certainly not an artist.It is upholstery we do folks, not some esoteric mysterious art, good on someone if they want to have a go at home(I too get alot of fix up work).But make no mistake this is a good honest TRADE ....

You got it, someone somewhere is making them, I can buy them off the shelf from my supplier.Hope you find them....  :)

I'm glad they still exist!  I guess no one is exporting them to the US anymore. :(

Tell me... how do you like Scott buttons?  I've never used them.  What's been your experience?  Do they hold heavy upholstery fabric without separating?

They are as good or better than the metal ones, you have to be sure to assemble them the right way round or they come undone,but you find that out pretty quickly....

You got it, someone somewhere is making them, I can buy them off the shelf from my supplier.Hope you find them....  :)

I use all plastic buttons that work in the same moulds as metal so they are available(here at least NZ)will check out the brand and let you know.....

You are simply not charging out your time properly,If I was unable to make a living doing upholstery I would not be doing it.Is there any sort of business mentoring scheme in your area?they can be very helpful in clarifying issues for you. 

I use a 1/2" stapler I bought from Harbor Freight for $12, and haven't had any problems. I now see the price has gone to about $20 on the stapler but it's still a good deal!

                                            Big John

I should add that I do not use mine that often due to the work I do. But when I have used it it performed great.

Chris

It probably should be pointed out that the guys who only do light duty stapling HAVE been pleased with the cheapo staplers, such as the one from Harbor Freight. For stapling vinyl to plywood, I'm sure they are satisfactory.
But, being a hard core furniture guy, I have wasted entirely too much time and money fooling around with those inexpensive guns.
I'd rather pay $125 for a BEA, or comparable brand. I can keep my air pressure at 90 psi (the same as my air wrenches), I seldom oil it, and I can accidentally hit steel springs without damaging the driver. And the gun will last 10 years or more.
So, when deciding how much to spend on an air stapler, you should consider the type of work you will be doing.
I only occasionally use a brad nail gun. So for me, the cheapo brad nailer works just fine. A professional carpenter, for example, wouldn't fool with one.

All very good points, my choice is BEA (I have two) spare a thought for those of us a million miles from anywhere,a new BEA here is around $400.......

I do everything and anything that comes my way.Although trained as an apprentice in furniture upholstery I have, over the years gained experience in pretty much all areas.I live in a very rural part of NZ and simply take on whatever is offered.Works for me....

Kinda hard to explain but,you don't need to cut it, just apply glue to the whole end and carefully(and messily)run a needle down the center and fold the ends in to meet each other.You will get a natural bullnose.Might want to have a wee practice on some scrap.Hope that makes sense...

As Henry Ford once said they can have it in any color they want as long as it is Black.  :D

Actually if you look at the site you will see that they are available in fabrics as well and different colours.

Just get them to make it in the colour you want, not a big deal...

Some overlockers use them .

well i did that and it breaks the thread after it runs out on the left i would pull about 12 in. on the left of the needle and when that runs out it pulls the thread from the eye and than i start all over again

I may be misunderstanding you But, the thread should come through the right hand side of your needle ,you may have the needle round the wrong way in which case it will break every time.The blood gutter on the needle(grooved side)should face left and be threaded from that side.Makes sense? I hope...

It seems more likely to me that the go between was supplying the fabric and realised they would be carrying the can.maybe?.